Issues with heat in a 5x5

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Boston Brian

Active Member
tent- 5x5
Lighting- HLG 550 v2 and alibaba 550 v2 (the alibaba is to add during flower) now thinking there is no way i can cool that.
Exhaust fan- Ac infinity T8 with NO FILTER smell not a problem
Intake fan - Ac infinity T4 on max
16 inch osc.
6 inch fan x2 blowing on drivers
2 Vent ports in bottom of tent always open

The t8 exhaust fan is pushing the air right outside the window out of the house
Ambient temp in my room is 68-69 degrees
I have the t8 on almost max sounds like a freight train in my room.

With just the HLG running at full blast and all the temps and settings to my fans how they are i am around 79 degrees.. it is almost winter here about 45 degrees outside. The driver on my HLG is never hot to the touch but if i put my hand under the light under the diodes i can really feel the heat.
Since my temps are already this high i have no douibt that i wont even be able to run the alibaba during flower.. am i missing somthing here? i see people with way more watts then me in my tent and they are not having the issues i am... Im about to legit call this a waist of money and look into different options.. id rather not cuz im tight on cash but i want to keep growing.. i got my 550 a week before the 600 came out.. and of course no one at HLG said a word.. please help..
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
You sure your thermometer isnt directly under the light? With good circulation and constant exhaust your temps should be the same as outside the tent even without the intake blower.
I have run as much as 200w in 5 sq/ft, and have the opposite problem. I run my exhaust off a thermostat set for 82f and it runs every 5 min or so for maybe 2 min. Would love to run a negative pressure setup, but temps would be too low
 
B

Boston Brian

Active Member
i have the testing probe for the AC infinity at the canopy height under the light and thats 36 inches below the lightc
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Assuming you have a decent circ fan in there, temps should be pretty even throughout the tent. Try putting the probe at the fixture height, and see what the difference is
 
B

Boston Brian

Active Member
Lockedin said:
Can you add a 4" duct, - intake side at your window - "exhaust" (into tent) pulled through by the 4" fan.

I dropped 5-10 f, depending on TOD
Click to expand...
im just worried about the cold temp here in NE if i do that. i would need the intake ona timer with the lights. and then when lights off the intake would also go off and then the freezing from outside would just seep into my actual room and id have to heat the room even more i think and im also really trying to avoid having to run an AC in the winter lol would be a PITA cuz again when lights off if i have an AC in the window it would make the room freezing from cold seeping insidec
 
B

Boston Brian

Active Member
Boatguy said:
Assuming you have a decent circ fan in there, temps should be pretty even throughout the tent. Try putting the probe at the fixture height, and see what the difference is
Click to expand...
Also i normally hang my probe right dead middle of the tent at canopy height? have i been doing this wrong? i always thought the heat from the light itself that is reaching the leaves was important to note? or is that a totally different measurement from tent temp? I moved the probe just giving a few minutes before i take a reading
 
Star Dog

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
My room temp is 15/17c even with a dehumidifier running I can't get up enough heat in the tent, I vent constantly for the rh% and can't get above 24c above the canopy.
I think Boatguy is right enough that your reading the radiated heat from the light, put your probe in a paper tube or make a shade for it.
Eta...
I forgot to add I only need to run the 6" 680cfm fan at 25/30%
 
B

Boston Brian

Active Member
After Moving the probe about 1 foot to the side of the lamp and about 3-4 inches higher then the actual Lamp I am getting a reading of 76.1f I still dont see how i could run the second light unless i run it dimmed to shit.. and then im messing my main lights footprint up... Would removing my Drivers help at all?
 
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Lockedin

Lockedin

Well-Known Member
Boston Brian said:
im just worried about the cold temp here in NE if i do that. i would need the intake ona timer with the lights. and then when lights off the intake would also go off and then the freezing from outside would just seep into my actual room and id have to heat the room even more i think and im also really trying to avoid having to run an AC in the winter lol would be a PITA cuz again when lights off if i have an AC in the window it would make the room freezing from cold seeping insidec
Click to expand...
I RARELY get cold enough to warrant using the low temp settings, but the T-8 can be programmed to work within a temperature window.
--I haven't figured out how yet (I have the T-6), I'll let you know if I get it.
(Edit - I've only had it for about 24 hours....)
 
Y

youraveragehorticulturist

Well-Known Member
Move one of your 6 inch fans from above the heat sink, blowing on the driver, to Under the heat sink, blowing air across the diodes.

Push air across the area under the hot diodes. Keep it moving, don't allow the air to sit around and heat up! Similar to the way you would move the air around an HID bulb.
 
Star Dog

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
Boston Brian said:
im just worried about the cold temp here in NE if i do that. i would need the intake ona timer with the lights. and then when lights off the intake would also go off and then the freezing from outside would just seep into my actual room and id have to heat the room even more i think and im also really trying to avoid having to run an AC in the winter lol would be a PITA cuz again when lights off if i have an AC in the window it would make the room freezing from cold seeping insidec
Click to expand...
If you like DIY a stc 1000 dual relay will switch on/off at any temperature you like, when the temperature drops below a pre set temperature it'll switch on a heater/fan/dehumidifier etc when it goes above a preset temperature it'll switch on the fan.

If you want to make a top notch environment controller add a variac, I've got my one wired with 3 pre set idle speeds for when the light is off and I alter the fan speed to suit during light on depending on the season, I've had a few controllers none of them come close and at a fraction of the cost £75\80 all in for relay, variac and the other odds and ends required.
 
Lockedin

Lockedin

Well-Known Member
JoeBlow5823 said:
Buy a laser thermometer and check actual temps of the leaves.
Click to expand...

:wall: DOH!!! :wall:
My Wife's in the medical field, pretty sure I have a few of them around. Never even thought about that! lol

youraveragehorticulturist said:
Move one of your 6 inch fans from above the heat sink, blowing on the driver, to Under the heat sink, blowing air across the diodes.

Push air across the area under the hot diodes. Keep it moving, don't allow the air to sit around and heat up! Similar to the way you would move the air around an HID bulb.
Click to expand...
It takes a bit of fiddling, but here's a suggestion:
Stand / sit inside your tent with the zippers as closed as you can get them - lights & fans powered up as normal.

Feel your intakes - there should be a cool breeze coming in from each one.
***I ended up running duct to my window to get this.

Use circulation fans to direct that cool air through your plants
Use another / more circulation fans to direct cool air from plants to ceiling

Mount exhaust fan as high as possible to pull out the hottest air and not allow it to "pool".

I used to install component racks - that's what we did, and it works in my 4x4
 
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