It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Just a garden variety 10L/day dehumidifier from the whitegoods shop. I think this one is a DeLonghi brand.
Dehumidifiers are useful even when your ventilation is working properly, especially during lights-off in cool times of the year. During lights off, your thermostatically controlled ventilation may not trigger. A dehumidifier will stop any 'overnight' humidity spikes.
Look, if you're motivated, you can do an op like mine with 30 mins/day regular maintenance and a marathon harvest session every 2 weeks, probably on weekends for you. You'll put 14-16h in manicuring one tray of flowering plants. You will have little time to sit around stoned, tho.
True, it does take a chunk out of your life. You never get holidays, either. Clones have to be watered every day at 12h intervals. Miss a watering & you can lose a whole batch.
There were a couple of places carrying it when I checked a cpl yrs ago; they may have closed up shop, tho. You can use perlite instead of Fytocell if you like. It behaves similarly.
The floc in the bottoms of the flowering plant pots is there mainly to keep crumbs of Fytocell from falling out of the pot drain holes. It floats, so any I have spilled it usually just stays in the tray, but the few crumbs might get washed down into the rez won't generally cause any problems for the pumps. Fytocell is a resin foam type material and is not abrasive, unlike some things like perlite & vermiculite.
If you can be sure that the 'fan forced oven' will not exceed 29C, it should work OK, but I don't like your chances of keeping an oven reliably below 29C.
RavenMochi
Well-Known Member
Al, maybe you should have your handle changed to Q&A
Seriously, or start up a 900 hotline, you'd make a killing.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Al, maybe you should have your handle changed to Q&A
Seriously, or start up a 900 hotline, you'd make a killing.
Heh, thanks- but to be deadly honest, I don't need the $ that bad.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
thanks al b. for the info
Indefinately
Well-Known Member
I Have dried a small ammount of bud in the oven when i have been out of dried/cured bud.
It isnt worth destroying the quality of your BUD to save your self 7-10 days to dry naturally or 2-3 days in a dry box.
I made a dry box with no thermostat or heater. Just a tote with a fan on both sides ( Like Al's ).
I put the dry box in a closet where the temps are between 21-28 degrees celsius and the humidity is 30-55 ( not too bad ).
Then i put an ozone machine on low just outside the closet as the smell gets "crazy" ....LOL.
THANKS for the reply Al.......
*BUDS
Well-Known Member
Yeah i agree 1-2 days would kill it and the oven sounds a bit much , Al said 3-4 days drying and it comes out nice,perfect. If i can keep temps of oven <29cel(i tested it with thermometer for an hour,26 and steady) no damage will be done ,if it dries too much just put it in air tight container for a day with a wet tissue/paper towel and its ready for smoking. Just temporary ,im making a' drying box' for next harvest.
william69er
Active Member
Hay al b this is just another one of those "your the man!!" posts that you get alot of so just thort I'd put mine up.yep copying your grow but only have one 600 over 32 babys and a 400 over the mothers.also doing your cloning tecnique as well but useing humidity domes becuase the box is to big for the heat mats to warm up. Useing house and garden nutes becuse the local store has boycott canna(Nz sales rep is a penis apprently).my only qestion I have is what are the ppms for your trays? Right through eg clones=0ppm tray one=***ppm,tray two=***ppm,tray three=***ppm,tray four=***ppm?? Oh and how low do you think any one could run the nutes on the mothers??
Just to reiterate YOU ARE THE MAN!!
Just to reiterate YOU ARE THE MAN!!
Budologist420
Well-Known Member
* Chlorinated municipal tap water is fine for hydroponics. Fancy water filtration systems are completely unnecessary. Chlorine, in the amounts applied by muni water treatment plants, is completely harmless to plants and people. High TDS readings from 'hard' water are caused primarily by dissolved minerals like Ca and Mg, both of which are necessary micronutrients. Any water suitable for drinking is excellent for hydroponics. The only reason one would ever have to ever use expensive RO or filtration systems is if one is sourcing water from a local bore/well, where water may contain high levels of salinity or sulfur. In 25 years of growing dope, I've never once seen tapwater from a municipal system cause problems in a hydroponic grow op.
does this apply for outdoor soil as well.
if so this paragraph is going to save me a lot of money and time.
does this apply for outdoor soil as well.
if so this paragraph is going to save me a lot of money and time.
william69er
Active Member
Iv been running from a freash water spring for about 3 months now.only problem is when the land lord dosnt turns the pump on harf way through filling the res and we run out of water grrr. But it's FREE water so I'm not complaning one bit!!
al thanks alot for answering everyones questions. i have some questions for you if you dont mind. theres alot but ive been trying to figure this stuff out for months so im hoping you can help me out
im running an ebb and flow system using 4'' squared rockwool cubes and i have a serious fungus gnats problem that i cant get rid of. what would you do to get rid of them for good or at least make it so there not powerful enough to effect a crop? im thinking its a great idea to start spreading Diatomaceous Earth on top of each cube
can gnatrol be combined with h202 in the res? that would be a great duo to get rid of fungus gnats
can i run h202 with rock supercharge root tonic? im not sure whats in it but its a similar product to home & gardens root excelerator
theres a person similar to you on another forum that i go to for advice and i consider him almost an expert when it comes to nutrients and growing in general. he told me that it was ok to combine hygrozyme and h202 because he says theres nothing alive to kill in hygrozyme. i read earlier in this thread that you said they cant be combined. what are your thought on this and are you 100% sure there not compatible?
im noticing alot of green algea in my res and its totally uncovered. since im using a water chiller can i cover the res to get rid of the algea?
do you use a water chiller or just run the h202 without it? what is your res temp?
and probably the most important question of all. i cant figure out for the life of me when i should be uping my nutes in flower. i do sea of green with no veg. is there a way to figure out when to up nutes by looking at what the ppm in the res is doing? ive never finished a crop without some tip burn 3-4 weeks in. ive heard alot of people say that if the ppm goes up when res gets depleated then your overfeeding and if the ppm goes down as res gets depleated then you have to up nutes. they say you want the ppm to stay the same as the res goes down. this didnt make sense to me because they were talking about without topping off. ive never had my ppm not go up as the res goes down ever. i cant start my plants with more than 300 ppm or else i get tip burn but i dont know how to tell when to increase nutes after that. and trust me i cant start my plants at 1000ppm like you, i think its cause it depends on the type of nutes your using and im using advanced nutrients. what are your thoughts on this?
im running an ebb and flow system using 4'' squared rockwool cubes and i have a serious fungus gnats problem that i cant get rid of. what would you do to get rid of them for good or at least make it so there not powerful enough to effect a crop? im thinking its a great idea to start spreading Diatomaceous Earth on top of each cube
can gnatrol be combined with h202 in the res? that would be a great duo to get rid of fungus gnats
can i run h202 with rock supercharge root tonic? im not sure whats in it but its a similar product to home & gardens root excelerator
theres a person similar to you on another forum that i go to for advice and i consider him almost an expert when it comes to nutrients and growing in general. he told me that it was ok to combine hygrozyme and h202 because he says theres nothing alive to kill in hygrozyme. i read earlier in this thread that you said they cant be combined. what are your thought on this and are you 100% sure there not compatible?
im noticing alot of green algea in my res and its totally uncovered. since im using a water chiller can i cover the res to get rid of the algea?
do you use a water chiller or just run the h202 without it? what is your res temp?
and probably the most important question of all. i cant figure out for the life of me when i should be uping my nutes in flower. i do sea of green with no veg. is there a way to figure out when to up nutes by looking at what the ppm in the res is doing? ive never finished a crop without some tip burn 3-4 weeks in. ive heard alot of people say that if the ppm goes up when res gets depleated then your overfeeding and if the ppm goes down as res gets depleated then you have to up nutes. they say you want the ppm to stay the same as the res goes down. this didnt make sense to me because they were talking about without topping off. ive never had my ppm not go up as the res goes down ever. i cant start my plants with more than 300 ppm or else i get tip burn but i dont know how to tell when to increase nutes after that. and trust me i cant start my plants at 1000ppm like you, i think its cause it depends on the type of nutes your using and im using advanced nutrients. what are your thoughts on this?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Thanks for the praise.
All my flowering plants run at 1000ppm. Mother plants run at about 1200; they're under 24/7 light and don't mind the stronger nutes. I spoze they could run at about 800, tho.
Yep, outdoor plants will do fine with muni tapwater. My veg garden does fine with tapwater during those times when there hasn't been enough rain.
Get some yellow sticky card traps; they will trap enough of the adults that it will put a dent in their reproductive cycle.
From what I can find out about Gnatrol, it's an organic-based goo. If so, it's not compatible with H2O2. H2O2 doesn't have any effect on gnats beyond killing fungus & thus eliminating their food source.
Hygrozyme is an enzymatic agent. Enzymes are proteins. H2O2 will break down proteins- they're organic matter.
Block the light getting to your rez. When you change nute solns, clean the tank with a 10% bleach/90% water solution with a few drops of dish soap added as a wetting agent.
do you use a water chiller or just run the h202 without it? what is your res temp?
The concentration in the tank over the life of a batch of nutes varies by a couple of factors; what nutes the plants eat and the ratio of water to nutrients in the tank. Water exits via transpiration through the plants and through direct evaporation from the tank & media. If your tank is too small for the number of plants you're running, the ppm will tend to rise over the several days after you mix a fresh batch. What's happening is the ratio of water:nutes is changing as a result of water used by the plants and lost through evaporation. The plants are not eating the nutes as fast as they can can consume water, increasing the concentration of nutes in solution. I've found that about 5L of tank volume per plant, using a 1000ppm concentration, is about ideal. The plants will eat nutes as a similar comparative rate to their water usage and thus, the ppm will stay pretty close to 1000ppm, even as the tank level drops.
1000 isn't terribly strong, but it's enough to supply all that the plant will demand. That's why I can get away with running all tanks at 1000, even the one for the newest clones. Bear in mind that clones are mature plants from the get-go- you've just given the plant a new root system in the cloning process. I would not hit a SEEDLING with 1000, but clones do just fine.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
On Gnatrol: It's a competitive bacteria preparation. From the MSDS:
H2O2 will kill the Bacillus thuringiensis bacteria.
H2O2 will kill the Bacillus thuringiensis bacteria.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
While we're on nutes, I think it's appropriate to comment (again) that plants are not V8 engines. Plants do NOT do better with more 'fuel.' There's a bell-curve to plants; too little, just right and dead. You will lose more yield by nute burning than by slightly underfeeding. It's much better to run a moderate ppm than try to push your luck.
MOAR IS NOT BETTERER.
Mkay?
MOAR IS NOT BETTERER.
Mkay?
Beansly
RIU Bulldog
Jeez, idk know when you came back but I'm glad you're here.
Al B. Fuct, thanks alot for answering my questions but you didnt fully answer one of them. it might be the way im asking it thats confusing you so let me try to ask as clear as possible. how do you know when to up nutes when doing hydro? i know you run the same ppm the entire time in flower but what if you started them at 500ppm and then you wanted to slowly up it along the way as the plants need more? what do the plants do or what does the ppm's in the res do to give you a signal that the plants need more nutes to be fully healthy? what im basically asking is how do you know when a plant isnt getting enough nutes in hydro?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
A plant that's not getting enough nitrogen will generally appear yellowish/sallow.
If you run your tanks at 1000ppm, you simply won't see nute deficiencies.
In most cases where a grower thinks they've seen deficiencies, 99% of the time, it's a pH problem. The magic number for cannabis in hydroponics is 5.8. Running the pH too low or too high will cause nute lockout.
1000ppm @ 5.8 and you're golden.
by your answer im taking it that there is no way to know when to raise nutes unless the plant looks yellow or theres something wrong with it. i was hoping you were gonna tell me a way to know when to up nutes before the plant shows deficiencies but i guess theres no way. just to add theres no way in hell my clones can handle any where near 1000 ppm. im pretty sure it depends on what kind of nutes you give them and from what company. ive burned the crap out of my plants with just 400-500 ppms so now you see why im trying to figure out when to up them without burning them because i start my ppm at 200. thanks for your help
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
That's right! If the plant is thriving, does not show signs of nute burn or deficiency, the nute strength is correct.
Remember what I just said about 'too little, just right and dead? It really is that simple.
If you're burning plants at 400-500ppm, there's something else wrong. Bad meter, pH wrong, etc. Get good meters and use (fresh) reference solutions for calibration.
Remember what I just said about 'too little, just right and dead? It really is that simple.
If you're burning plants at 400-500ppm, there's something else wrong. Bad meter, pH wrong, etc. Get good meters and use (fresh) reference solutions for calibration.
all i can say is i wish you would use advanced nutrients sensi 2 part one time like i do so you can see what im talkin about. i tried out a nute called bc nutrients before and i had it up to 1500ppm with no nute burn but with the sensi 2 part you cant give the same ppm for some reason or else the plants get fried. a.n also has a product called connoisseur and everyone says its extremely strong and whatever ppm you give your plants with sensi 2 part you can only give them half the ppm with connoisseur. i dont know why this happens but i can assure you its true. this is why its important to know when to raise the nutes and i cant find an easy way to tell so far other than seeing how much lower the ppm is after top off.
what kind of nutes do you use al?