It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Yep. A good measure of bud dryness is stiffness of any remaining stems. If the stems are still flexy, they're not dry enough to smoke yet. My bud dryer is really quite effective, even when ambient humidity is high- and there have been some rain periods recently which has held ambient RH at 95-100% where my bud dryer is located.
All I'm doing with the bud dryer is warming the air to 29C, which drops the RH inside the bud dryer and accelerates drying without breaking down d9-THC.
*BUDS
Well-Known Member
Before the buds go in do you remove all leaves and visable stem? ,thats brilliant that you can do it in 3 days Al even in high rh, it takes me up to 2 weeks, 1 week in front of fans(leaves and stems still on hanging up) and a week opening and closing tupaware containers(after manicure) ,and still sometimes its clumpy/damp.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Yep.
Ah, I see your problem. Remove the leaves in entirety and take the buds off of the stems. Fans alone will speed drying somewhat and will inhibit mould formation to a degree but if you are not increasing the air temp, there won't be much acceleration. Refer to my posts on the bud dryer. 3 days from go to whoa, in almost any ambient conditions.thats brilliant that you can do it in 3 days Al even in high rh, it takes me up to 2 weeks, 1 week in front of fans(leaves and stems still on hanging up) and a week opening and closing tupaware containers(after manicure) ,and still sometimes its clumpy/damp.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
No worries. Note that the bud dryer has gone through a revision and rebuild since the beginning of the bud dryer thread. Fan sizes were increased from 100mm to 120mm and the heater schematic was revised somewhat to put more heat into the heat sink. The most recent schematic is the one I posted a page or so back in this thread.
When I increased the fan sizes, I used a gutted fan body as a spacer between the heat sink and the intake fan. If the intake fan is mounted right up against the heat sink, the fan blades passing by the heat sink fins so closely creates a high pressure zone between them and thus creates an unacceptable level of WHZZZZZZZ noise. Since I had a fan of the same size with a dead motor, I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to remove the dead motor & mounting spiders. I then used a sanding drum to remove the remnants of the fan spiders to smooth airflow through the remaining fan body. This spacer fan body puts enough space between the fan & heat sink fins such that the thing is quietened right down.
Also, I use some old pantyhose material over the air intake path through the heat sink as filters. This stops any dust or bugs from being drawn into the bud dryer. More details on request should you need them.
When I increased the fan sizes, I used a gutted fan body as a spacer between the heat sink and the intake fan. If the intake fan is mounted right up against the heat sink, the fan blades passing by the heat sink fins so closely creates a high pressure zone between them and thus creates an unacceptable level of WHZZZZZZZ noise. Since I had a fan of the same size with a dead motor, I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to remove the dead motor & mounting spiders. I then used a sanding drum to remove the remnants of the fan spiders to smooth airflow through the remaining fan body. This spacer fan body puts enough space between the fan & heat sink fins such that the thing is quietened right down.
Also, I use some old pantyhose material over the air intake path through the heat sink as filters. This stops any dust or bugs from being drawn into the bud dryer. More details on request should you need them.
I think you missed this one too al. Sorry to go on, I know ur real busy.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
See, this is the danger of writing in a manner that is hard to read. I didn't see any questions in that & took it as a comment.
I would not use pandafilm on a reflector- unless the ref were fitted with cooltubes. Pandafilm is flammable plastic and I don't want to see it hung above a hot HPS bottle.
I would not use pandafilm on a reflector- unless the ref were fitted with cooltubes. Pandafilm is flammable plastic and I don't want to see it hung above a hot HPS bottle.
Yeah al sorry its my tablet it won't let me multi quote or use spaces to break up paragraphs. I do have 8" cooltubes. What did you think of the other question about the 4 3x6s rather than 2 4x6s. I have enough trays pumps and res' on hand to do this. Sorry for makin that last post so hard to read. I'm really quite new at all this forum stuff.
TrueBoy
Active Member
Hi Al,
1) What do you think about Gavitas concept of running a 400V-bulb in a 240Volt high frequency digital ballast?
Link > http://www.gavita-holland.com/index.php/products/proline/prolinefixtures/item/gavita-pro-1000-de.html
They run a very efficient Philips bulb in it ... it emits 1900 micro-mol/sec... "Philips GreenPower 1000W 400V EL Double"
2) I remember you ranted about expensive and not durable sulfur plasm lamps some years ago. Technology progressed. What are your thoughts today about the Gavita Plasm system?
Link > http://www.gavita-holland.com/index.php/products/proline/prolinefixtures/item/gavita-pro-300-lep-2.html
thanks!
1) What do you think about Gavitas concept of running a 400V-bulb in a 240Volt high frequency digital ballast?
Link > http://www.gavita-holland.com/index.php/products/proline/prolinefixtures/item/gavita-pro-1000-de.html
They run a very efficient Philips bulb in it ... it emits 1900 micro-mol/sec... "Philips GreenPower 1000W 400V EL Double"
2) I remember you ranted about expensive and not durable sulfur plasm lamps some years ago. Technology progressed. What are your thoughts today about the Gavita Plasm system?
Link > http://www.gavita-holland.com/index.php/products/proline/prolinefixtures/item/gavita-pro-300-lep-2.html
thanks!
MonkE
Member
So you speed dry your bud? Have you noticed a lowered quality of taste with this method?
It's always been my belief that an important part of curing is to allow the buds to use up any remaining nutrients. The issue being that quick drying kills the buds before they use everything so you're left with more nutrients than you may want.
Do you not think buds use up their storages and improve in taste with long curing?
It's always been my belief that an important part of curing is to allow the buds to use up any remaining nutrients. The issue being that quick drying kills the buds before they use everything so you're left with more nutrients than you may want.
Do you not think buds use up their storages and improve in taste with long curing?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Not sure I understand what you want to do. As long as you're putting down a minimum of about 50W/sq ft of HPS, should be OK.
The specs claim '8% more grow light' - than what? HPS? How much does the Gavitas lamp cost compared to HPS? Consider that the lamp renewal interval for HPS is about 12 mos in flowering applications (~4000 hours). It becomes an economic consideration more than anything else. I don't think 8% more light than HPS will make a huge difference in yield performance.
Nope. 'Speed dry' is a relative term. 3 days while maintaining a max air temp of 29C is not that fast. It's not like I'm popping them in an oven!
Nutrients are consumed by photosynthesis. You should be drying in very low light or dark conditions as light will cause THC to break down. If you are drying in darkness (or close to it) nutes are not being consumed anyway.
It's better to dry quickly to prevent any possibility of mould, which is a certain way to spoil taste.
Nope.
Ello Gov'nor,
Well I read the clone thread after the "get a harvest every two weeks" and needed even more punishment so I started on the FAQ thread. I made it to post 1420 of 1808 so far. It is better reading than a lot of the BS on here and keeps me out of trouble too. Hell, I think I have even learned a few things...No more questions yet. I just saw you posted on here a few minutes ago and thought I would say hey.-Gyro
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
O hai 
Hope you're enjoying the thread. I don't think I killed anyone in that one, did I?
Hope you're enjoying the thread. I don't think I killed anyone in that one, did I?
TrueBoy
Active Member
Hi Al,
once you stated an advantage of a flood and drain system with pods is that the root zone is supplied with fresh oxygene whenever nutritiant solution is draining from the pods after the flooding... air will be sucked into the pods from the top as the nutrient solution leaves the pods through the drainage holes in the bottom... (must have been mentioned in the "Get a harvest every 2 weeks"-Thread)
Can you be really detailed:
I cant find no flood tables that are higher than 7cm or 12cm... from my imagaination: in these tables you cannot raise the water level high enough to create this kind of "sucking"-effect, when your pods are 23 or 25 cm high. I would expect the neccessary height of the tables must be around 18 or 20 cm, with water levels at least at 15cm height, so the drain and therefore also the described "sucking-in-the-air"-effect in the pods will get strong enough...
What tables are you using specifically (in detail as manufacturer and model, so I can take a look for photos or detailed specs of them...)... as I said, you cant find no tables that are higher than 7cm or 12cm here...
If you want to provoke an absolute maximum of air/oxygene exchange when flooding and draining the tables using rockwool floc in pods, what would be the optimum table height?
thank you so much, Al!
~ Trueboy
once you stated an advantage of a flood and drain system with pods is that the root zone is supplied with fresh oxygene whenever nutritiant solution is draining from the pods after the flooding... air will be sucked into the pods from the top as the nutrient solution leaves the pods through the drainage holes in the bottom... (must have been mentioned in the "Get a harvest every 2 weeks"-Thread)
Can you be really detailed:
I cant find no flood tables that are higher than 7cm or 12cm... from my imagaination: in these tables you cannot raise the water level high enough to create this kind of "sucking"-effect, when your pods are 23 or 25 cm high. I would expect the neccessary height of the tables must be around 18 or 20 cm, with water levels at least at 15cm height, so the drain and therefore also the described "sucking-in-the-air"-effect in the pods will get strong enough...
What tables are you using specifically (in detail as manufacturer and model, so I can take a look for photos or detailed specs of them...)... as I said, you cant find no tables that are higher than 7cm or 12cm here...
If you want to provoke an absolute maximum of air/oxygene exchange when flooding and draining the tables using rockwool floc in pods, what would be the optimum table height?
thank you so much, Al!
~ Trueboy
Sorry al I'm not the best at getting ideas accross in writing. I'm trying to say that I have a choice. Grow 192 plants in a 6x8 area which is 83 watts per square foot or grow 288 plants in a 6x12 area which is 55 watts per square foot. Which do you think would yield the most? I have everything I would need in both scenarios so I won't need to spend any more money. Thanks al ur clone thread is the BOMBBB btw
Bigz2277
Well-Known Member
not trying to jack your thread al ^_^
check out bghydro.com they have 7 inch high flood tables if you really want a high one.
bigwood111
Well-Known Member
Hey Al, I'm growing in Rockwool flock. Haven't seen much growth in the first week of veg. I'm pretty sure I should of hand watered every other day or so. I'm I correct on that assumption?
bigwood111
Well-Known Member
Forgot to mention I'm growing in 4x4 trays with a 40 gallon res with flood to drain with 1000 watts above each 4x4. In the first tray week 1 and 2 the light is about 3.5 feet away from the top of the plants. Thanks Al!!!