richinweed
Active Member
ive never seen it put that way before thats almost geious......infact im doing that tonight.lol
It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
IjustSmoke
Member
Hey Al, I love all your information and advice. I was wondering if you can help with my grow https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/525310-2x4-ebb-flow-autoflower-tent.html
*BUDS
Well-Known Member
Maybe you could use the cubes as a substitute for the floc but not the fytocell ,Al ? less risk on the next batch.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
hay folx. Harvesting time again for me, which naturally means I'm busier than a teenager in a cathouse on dollar day.
Bear with me, back in a few days.
Bear with me, back in a few days.
Shwagbag
Well-Known Member
I toyed with some LEDS for flowering and it didn't work out well for me. They make fantastic veg lights though! The tech is getting better, but still not there yet. Some of them are insanely efficient at specific wavelengths relevant to photosynthesis. The par values are through the roof on the Spectras. That doesn't mean that they grow better buds though lol. The LEDs I tried were actually far too powerful at certain wavelengths which caused them to damage the foliage. Char fried sizzzzzzle.
I hope the harvest goes well Al, keep the scissors sharp and your pipe packed!
bigwood111
Well-Known Member
Hey Al, now that you have everything dialed in with your cooltubes and everything else how are your yields? Have they increased?
mountainboy
Well-Known Member
Hi Al, I just have a quick question. Will using h2o2 effect the ph of my water, I was thinking it would up the ph. I might be wrong but thought ph was short for (parts hydrogen) so I was thinking if I added hydrogen peroxide to my water it would make it more alkaline. I would just add some and test my water, but I'm waiting on my calibration solution to get here and cant test right now. Thank you in advance,I always look forward to your reply's. P.S. Hope you had a bountiful harvest, I'm sure you did my friend.
Shivaskunk
Well-Known Member
mountain boy. it actually means potential hydrogen. Meaning basically an alkaline/acid spectrum where the ability to take in hydrogen is based on how alkaline or acid the medium is.
unfortunately adding h202 does nothing to the pH as h202 has a very unstable oxygen atom which is released leaving oxygen atoms and H20 which as you know is just water. you would have to seperate the 2 hydrogen atoms from the oxygen atom which takes a methos called electrolysis.
You really dont want pure oxygen or hydrogen in your grow room though. both are extremely combustable.
unfortunately adding h202 does nothing to the pH as h202 has a very unstable oxygen atom which is released leaving oxygen atoms and H20 which as you know is just water. you would have to seperate the 2 hydrogen atoms from the oxygen atom which takes a methos called electrolysis.
You really dont want pure oxygen or hydrogen in your grow room though. both are extremely combustable.
mountainboy
Well-Known Member
Thank you Shivaskunk, I',m glad to hear it doesn't effect pH. I don't know why I was wondering about it, just a thought that crossed my mind and wanted an answer. I use nutrasheild 29% H2O2,Al uses 50%. damn 50%.I hit my skin a few times with 29 and ouch that shit burns,I can't imagine 50,it must burn twice as bad..lol.
ANC
Well-Known Member
I'm haveing a little issue with some of my plants.
It starts off at the bottom at the oldest leaves first.
It looks like tiny rustlike waterpaint marks at the serated tips of the leaves.
Eventualy looses chlorofil in those patches between the veins at the tips.
Then the leaves curl and pretty much die from the tip backwards
The plants seem generaly heatly, but the problem seems to be progressing. It seems mostly limited to the plants that gut nuteburned as seedlings with kelp. But the other plants also show some of this, but are bushy and healthy otherwise. I'd just rather get on top of this sooner rather than later.
I'm useing coco coir with a natural pH of about 6.8, and my nute solution has a pH of 6.3. Sadly I don't have access to your fancy coco specific nutes. I have been feeding a hydro nute wich I listed the composition of somewhere on here but the search seems screwed at the moment. I have been giving it kelp now for 2 days to see if I can hit the missing nutrient by accident. I don't realy like the kelp though as it attracts gnats and other flies.
I am going to start taking clones tommorrow. I grew the seedlings in straight coarse vermiculite, and they did awesomely, I couldn't stay ahead with repotting. One seems to suffer gigantism, but is a girl, I like big girls.
Two of the 9 plants seem to be males but its still very early, the ones I am clonening are showing pistols though, as I left them outdoors a few days to help sex... ironicaly the ones I kept under 18/6 are showing preflowers at the same time
, so I just brought everything back in tonight. I'm starting small, with about 12 clones at a time. Would you, concidering the issues I seem to be haveing use verm or the coir as rooting medium?
It starts off at the bottom at the oldest leaves first.
It looks like tiny rustlike waterpaint marks at the serated tips of the leaves.
Eventualy looses chlorofil in those patches between the veins at the tips.
Then the leaves curl and pretty much die from the tip backwards
The plants seem generaly heatly, but the problem seems to be progressing. It seems mostly limited to the plants that gut nuteburned as seedlings with kelp. But the other plants also show some of this, but are bushy and healthy otherwise. I'd just rather get on top of this sooner rather than later.
I'm useing coco coir with a natural pH of about 6.8, and my nute solution has a pH of 6.3. Sadly I don't have access to your fancy coco specific nutes. I have been feeding a hydro nute wich I listed the composition of somewhere on here but the search seems screwed at the moment. I have been giving it kelp now for 2 days to see if I can hit the missing nutrient by accident. I don't realy like the kelp though as it attracts gnats and other flies.
I am going to start taking clones tommorrow. I grew the seedlings in straight coarse vermiculite, and they did awesomely, I couldn't stay ahead with repotting. One seems to suffer gigantism, but is a girl, I like big girls.
Two of the 9 plants seem to be males but its still very early, the ones I am clonening are showing pistols though, as I left them outdoors a few days to help sex... ironicaly the ones I kept under 18/6 are showing preflowers at the same time
, so I just brought everything back in tonight. I'm starting small, with about 12 clones at a time. Would you, concidering the issues I seem to be haveing use verm or the coir as rooting medium?
tehgenoc1de
Active Member
Coco PH needs to be between 5.7 and 6.1 at the highest. Also if you're not supplementing some Calmag the coco sure does love to suck it out and not leave it for the plant.
Calcium deficiency looks similar to what you have.
Calcium deficiency looks similar to what you have.
ANC
Well-Known Member
Thanks, yeah I'm not sure if it is calcium or potasium, they look so similar....
I hope the kelp can pull this straight, I see its got a bit of calcium in. N 53g/kg P 7g/kg K 17g/kg - Ca listed as .5g/kg
I have a bit of a problem with high pH tap water, I'm actualy amazed at how well the hydro ferts I use manage to pull it it down to the 6 range, normally 6.3 or 6.4.
I've read that coco is more forgiving on the range than plain inorganic hydro media.
I hope the kelp can pull this straight, I see its got a bit of calcium in. N 53g/kg P 7g/kg K 17g/kg - Ca listed as .5g/kg
I have a bit of a problem with high pH tap water, I'm actualy amazed at how well the hydro ferts I use manage to pull it it down to the 6 range, normally 6.3 or 6.4.
I've read that coco is more forgiving on the range than plain inorganic hydro media.
ANC
Well-Known Member
Well I think they can go a few more days in those ones, no roots pokeing out of holes yet.... probably been in those pots a week now.
Some will be picked as moms and the rest will go into the garden into soil, we don't have snow or frost here.
Might put the moms into soil for easier maintenance, but as I said, not too worried about pots yet, waterings are still more than 24h appart at this stage before its dryish.
I just hate how big plants get in large pots
Literaly had to get on a ladder to fit my last harvest in a picture... some swazi bagseed....
Some will be picked as moms and the rest will go into the garden into soil, we don't have snow or frost here.
Might put the moms into soil for easier maintenance, but as I said, not too worried about pots yet, waterings are still more than 24h appart at this stage before its dryish.
I just hate how big plants get in large pots
Literaly had to get on a ladder to fit my last harvest in a picture... some swazi bagseed....
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Eeek. Always build your op before you crack beans!
Closets are not always a good way to go unless you can find a way to dump warm, moist air effectively. Best way is cutting a hole in the closet ceiling & dumping air into an attic.
Rotsaruck!
Actually, the 3 pots I have packed with the STG cubes are looking better than the others in straight Fytocell. I'm hopeful. As regards keeping them too wet- well, that'd be a trick! STG cubes hold very little water and probably can be watered 2-3x per lights-on cycle.
DWC does not employ any media at all.
As regards use of STG cubes vs clay pellets, STG cubes hold more water than pellets but don't have as much mass as pellets and probably would not make as good an anchor for plants. Nothing that can't be fixed by staking the plants up with some plastic dowel rods.
Vermiculite is a pretty good medium in flood systems; it's inorganic, meaning it'll work OK with H2O2. I'm not a fan of organic media i.e. coco peat & coir as it tends to break down into bits when exposed to H2O2. Fragments can get stuck in pumps, which can have disastrous consequences. Vermiculite has a rather high water holding capacity, so depending upon the size of the plants in it, can provide a good reservoir in case of pump/timer/etc. failure. Nothing wrong with vermiculite as a medium for use from cloning to harvest.
The slime on your roots is a pathogen infection, probably pythium. It's cured by regular application of 50% grade H2O2 at 1ml/L, every 3-4 days. If you have 35%, use 1.7ml/L. Do not use pharmacy grade 3%- it's not cost effective & contains stabilisers which are not good for plants. I don't know if the nutes you're using are organic or not. If they are organic, you cannot use H2O2. Use a good quality inorganic nutrient from Canna, GH, etc. CFLs are OK for cloning but are a waste of time for flowering plants. Might get away with maintaining mother plants under CFLs but you will not get vigorous mother plant growth with them.
Whaddya mean ALMOST genius?
Thanks for the compliment.
It's a good way to keep scents from escaping your op as the exhaust fan runs constantly, pushing air through your carbon filter, although at very low speed when temps are below the setpoint of the thermostat.
What's your question?
Possibly. I'm using the STG on its own in 3 pots for now.
Thanks.
I tend to take PAR values with a pound or two of salt as they are often used as a salesmans' excuse to get ppl to buy substandard lights
I've never seen a decent flowering op with LEDs. Not one, ever. If all you need to do is veg some mums, you can do that much more cheaply with fluoros.
As regards flowering, there's just no substitute for highly cost-effective & powerful HPS. They're SO cheap & universally known to work well that I wonder why anyone dicks around with anything else.
You bet. Yields are always better when you can control temps precisely. My flowering room runs at 25C +/- 0.5C. Before the cooltubes, temps would occasionally wander up to 27-28C (or worse depending upon air intake temps).
pH stands for 'potential hydrogen.' Doesn't shift the pH of my tanks at all.
Yep.
High strength H2O2 is definitely a hazardous chemical. Smart cookies use rubber gloves & eye protection when dealing with the stuff.
As previously said, I'm not a fan of coco coir. If I had to choose between coir & vermiculite, I'd use vermiculite.I'm haveing a little issue with some of my plants.
It starts off at the bottom at the oldest leaves first.
It looks like tiny rustlike waterpaint marks at the serated tips of the leaves.
Eventualy looses chlorofil in those patches between the veins at the tips.
Then the leaves curl and pretty much die from the tip backwards
The plants seem generaly heatly, but the problem seems to be progressing. It seems mostly limited to the plants that gut nuteburned as seedlings with kelp. But the other plants also show some of this, but are bushy and healthy otherwise. I'd just rather get on top of this sooner rather than later.
I'm useing coco coir with a natural pH of about 6.8, and my nute solution has a pH of 6.3. Sadly I don't have access to your fancy coco specific nutes. I have been feeding a hydro nute wich I listed the composition of somewhere on here but the search seems screwed at the moment. I have been giving it kelp now for 2 days to see if I can hit the missing nutrient by accident. I don't realy like the kelp though as it attracts gnats and other flies.
I am going to start taking clones tommorrow. I grew the seedlings in straight coarse vermiculite, and they did awesomely, I couldn't stay ahead with repotting. One seems to suffer gigantism, but is a girl, I like big girls.
Two of the 9 plants seem to be males but its still very early, the ones I am clonening are showing pistols though, as I left them outdoors a few days to help sex... ironicaly the ones I kept under 18/6 are showing preflowers at the same time
Your symptoms sound an awful lot like overwatering. pH is way wrong, too. You're looking for 5.8.
Woudn't use kelp extract or any other organics in a hydroponic system. Incompatible with H2O2.
Bringing plants that have been outdoors into an indoor grow room is just asking for trouble. You will almost certainly bring bugs and/or pathogens into the grow op.
I think the spots are being caused by the pH being too high.
Possibly, although I think correcting the pH to 5.8 should sort it out. Municipal tapwater usually has enough Ca & Mg for hydroponic growing.
Most good quality nutes have pH buffers that will set the pH pretty close to 5.8 when you've mixed for an appropriate strength.
Tall plants are not caused by big pots- that's caused by vegging before you flower. If you don't want tall plants, don't veg before flowering.
ANC
Well-Known Member
Thanks Al, I'll try to get the pH down a little more. Our tap water has a pH of about 9.2 so I was pretty greatfull for the nutes pulling it to 6.3.
I'm also sure there should be enough calcium in the water alone, as we do get scale buildup in the shower and kettle, for some reason my ppm meter says its only 55ppm though, don't trust the meter, even though its new.
How do you feel about foliar feeding of Epsom salt, how regular would one do it, and for how long would one keep it up? Been seeing it mentioned as a solution for calcium lockout/deficiency.
Sog will be done in 2L bottles, I have nice deep crates that can hold 23 of them. So, batches will be about 12 plants each. So far I've been watering manualy so no pathogen issues yet, but I have timers, and pumps and stuff. If anything I tend to be somewhat on the cautious side with watering less rather than more. I manualy submerge the pots in a slightly larger container, then lift them on stands to drain out, after which they are good for 30 to 36 hours. I have quite a bit of the coarse vermiculite in there to help with oxygen availability. The dipping and lifting does help remove alot of the small particulate though, but I will rig up a filtering system for the pump when I use it.
Being in a country with no legal framework for use, means no access to hydroshops, (well technicaly there are one or 2 but they are a ripoff, and you are lucky if you can get some bulbs and hydroton from them). I guess I will go the import route once I know how much nutes I need to order to have a full regimen for a 3 month period, as I can't run to the shop for a refill.
Even with the calcium problem on some of the plants they are honestly healthier looking than my soil plants most years. Only learning about proper pH and nutrients now after a few grows.
P.S. the big pots thing was with reference to growing outdoors. I am thinking going to larger pots now will just make the pots retain water longer. Clones will all go straight to sog with no vegging.
Sadly I didn't follow your advice for haveing everthying ready before I started. I was busy emptying out the new flowering room till 11 last night, all kinds of crap in there. Not much space tough, 3.6' x 5.7' by 8' high.
Gotta go buy pipes now for moveing the taps in the back, as the washing machine is hooked up to it, as well as its drain pipe... Never done plumbing before, but willing to give it a go. suppose I should be happy to have watter and drainage in the room... Was an old servant's room.
I'm also sure there should be enough calcium in the water alone, as we do get scale buildup in the shower and kettle, for some reason my ppm meter says its only 55ppm though, don't trust the meter, even though its new.
How do you feel about foliar feeding of Epsom salt, how regular would one do it, and for how long would one keep it up? Been seeing it mentioned as a solution for calcium lockout/deficiency.
Sog will be done in 2L bottles, I have nice deep crates that can hold 23 of them. So, batches will be about 12 plants each. So far I've been watering manualy so no pathogen issues yet, but I have timers, and pumps and stuff. If anything I tend to be somewhat on the cautious side with watering less rather than more. I manualy submerge the pots in a slightly larger container, then lift them on stands to drain out, after which they are good for 30 to 36 hours. I have quite a bit of the coarse vermiculite in there to help with oxygen availability. The dipping and lifting does help remove alot of the small particulate though, but I will rig up a filtering system for the pump when I use it.
Being in a country with no legal framework for use, means no access to hydroshops, (well technicaly there are one or 2 but they are a ripoff, and you are lucky if you can get some bulbs and hydroton from them). I guess I will go the import route once I know how much nutes I need to order to have a full regimen for a 3 month period, as I can't run to the shop for a refill.
Even with the calcium problem on some of the plants they are honestly healthier looking than my soil plants most years. Only learning about proper pH and nutrients now after a few grows.
P.S. the big pots thing was with reference to growing outdoors. I am thinking going to larger pots now will just make the pots retain water longer. Clones will all go straight to sog with no vegging.
Sadly I didn't follow your advice for haveing everthying ready before I started. I was busy emptying out the new flowering room till 11 last night, all kinds of crap in there. Not much space tough, 3.6' x 5.7' by 8' high.
Gotta go buy pipes now for moveing the taps in the back, as the washing machine is hooked up to it, as well as its drain pipe... Never done plumbing before, but willing to give it a go. suppose I should be happy to have watter and drainage in the room... Was an old servant's room.
TillthedayiDIE420
Well-Known Member
Its just 4 plants under my LED produce around 600grams at under 600 watts draw. The HPS is fine and the plants are great, Just the cost of my HPS will be more then my LED very soon with no difference in yield really... ( same strain )Originally Posted by TillthedayiDIE420
I would have to agree with ya there, but at the same time i disagree my friend.. This is not to create an argument... lol For $1000 bucks i bought a spectra 500... last year... At the same time i bought a 600w Lumatek Digital Ballast with a HORTILUX bulb... my little LED light not only out grows my 600watt lol...
If you have plants doing better under LED than a 600, there's something very wrong with the 600 or the plant under it.
You should be able to light a 3'x4' tray with a 600HPS. Could sustain up to 48 SoG plants, each yielding .5-.75oz each for a total yield of 24-36oz. A 600 HPS with reflector & magnetic ballast is about $150. I don't see LEDs doing that at all, at least not for several times the price. Lot of bang for your buck with HPS.
And yes the magnetic ballasts are cheap but bulbs are not... 100+ for Efficient bulbs..
I'm not praising LED, Nor shunning HID. I am saying i agree to disagree, LED and HID are almost on the same page... If it were not for the pricks praying on every ones cash, You would see it too.
There is only one LED company i trust. Everything else has not shown results. You all take your false info from people who think they know how to grow with LED. Its the same difference. You can put a LED light to close... You will burn your plant... The μmol's from a LED can exceed that of a HID, So far i am using the Spectra 500 which is a 300watt draw with μmol ratings around the 600w HID range.... If i had a 600w LED light that was 600watts draw from the wall... It would out preform any HID of the same wattage.. ( considering who makes it lol )
To get down into it there is more math then you think when it comes to lighting, Its not just a plug and play like most think. Once you fine tune and really tweak your grow room, You can start fucking around with shit and increase your yield even more.
Also I enjoy the smoke of a LED better maybe its all in my head
Cheers
ttdid420