It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Steel will rust out readily in a grow room, notably with exposure to nutrient solutions, which are as corrosive (if not more) as seawater. Aluminum will last approximately forever.
you seem pretty comitted to the ST4 straindoes it suit humid conditions ? and weres best to purchase it from mate ? im looking at getn back into a season as its been a fair while !!
Cannabis doesn't handle high humidity very well- no leafy, herbaceous plant does. The target RH range is 40-60%. Higher than that will tend to promote powdery mildew on leaves and bud rot (botyritis).
You probably won't be able to get ST4. I popped the beans that are my mother stock in 2002. I haven't seen anyone selling ST4 beans since about 2005. There are similar indica dominant strains around from Spice of Life, though, like Blockhead. Others on here might also have suggestions for an indica dominant strain as well.
jojodancer10
Well-Known Member
dr.al i was wondering what do growers do to make there buds ice up as in thc.i was told about a product called ultra snow storm.what do u think about adding this into the rez?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Ice up? Not sure what you mean.
If you're talking about a profusion of resin trichomes that give a 'frosty' appearance, that comes from good genetics and healthy plants; such appearance is usually developed beginning late in wk6 and on through wk8.
'Snow Storm Ultra,' per the sales literature, is a potassium (K) additive. I can't see the purpose of a K-only additive. Cannabis flowering activity benefits from a bump in K & P (phosphorus) in week 5, not just K alone.
If you want to use a flowering enhancer, try Canna's PK-13-14, which contains both potassium & phosphorus. PK1314 is used at 1ml/L in week 5 (ONLY), along with your usual inorganic flowering nute at 75% usual strength (i.e. Canna Flores at 2ml/L). At the end of wk5, dump your tank & remix with the usual strength of flowering nutrient (i.e. Flores at 3ml/L).
legaleyes13
Well-Known Member
Hello Al,
I've read your perpetual grow thread and it's brilliant. Thank you for posting it, i will follow your instructions with just a few tweaks.
Tweaks are, I'll be using 1000W HPS lights over each 4x4 table and will be using CO2. Now I'm familiar with the mantra "the more light the better" but
1000W over each 4x4 table of non veg'd plants does seem like it could be overkill, and that is fine with me if it means a bigger yield.
Thanks in advance. You've helped me more than you know...
I've read your perpetual grow thread and it's brilliant. Thank you for posting it, i will follow your instructions with just a few tweaks.
Tweaks are, I'll be using 1000W HPS lights over each 4x4 table and will be using CO2. Now I'm familiar with the mantra "the more light the better" but
1000W over each 4x4 table of non veg'd plants does seem like it could be overkill, and that is fine with me if it means a bigger yield.
Thanks in advance. You've helped me more than you know...
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
There's no such thing as too much light but there IS a such thing as too much heat. As long as you can pump the heat out of the room (cooltubes are excellent), 1000s over 4x4s will be excellent. With 1500ppm CO2, you can run the room warmer than without (29-30C), which will speed growth & improve both weight yield and density.
You have your work cut out for you as CO2 rooms require good sealing to be economical on gas usage, but a good seal kills two birds- you make it hard for pests to gain entry.
Will be looking forward to pix when you're up & running.
legaleyes13
Well-Known Member
There's no such thing as too much light but there IS a such thing as too much heat. As long as you can pump the heat out of the room (cooltubes are excellent), 1000s over 4x4s will be excellent. With 1500ppm CO2, you can run the room warmer than without (29-30C), which will speed growth & improve both weight yield and density.
You have your work cut out for you as CO2 rooms require good sealing to be economical on gas usage, but a good seal kills two birds- you make it hard for pests to gain entry.
Will be looking forward to pix when you're up & running.
Thanks again Al,
As you say, sealing the room will be my biggest challenge, and is something I've always had a difficult time doing. I find it difficult to tape the the panda plastic to the floor and have it stay stuck. I also have a problem constructing a proper door... As far as heat is concerned, I'm not too worried. One way or another I'll get the heat out of there, even if I have to use and ice box heat exhanger (though I really really hope I don't have to). I'm hoping a couple of vortex fans venting the lights will do the trick
And one last thing. Do you think 1.5 gallon pots are big enough, or are they so small that they will stunt the growth of the plants?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Yep, I feel your pain. Most flavours of duct tape will come unstuck in short order. The seal need not be totally airtight, just snug. However, silicone sealant makes a dandy adhesive for panda film- and it's not too hard to remove if sometime in the future you do need to remove it.
Frame up the door in 2x3" timber with a diagonal crossmember & skin it with 1/4" MDF.
Cooltubes on a closed air circuit will do most of the job. This is to say the cooltubes should be fed air from outside the room airmass and dump the warmed air outside the room airmass as well. However, circ fans and radiant IR from the lamps will introduce some heat into the room airmass, which you'll have to remove with aircon or periodic dumping of the room air. Integrated CO2 controller units can manage dosing the room airmass with CO2 & control exhaust fans to minimise gas loss. However, CO2 systems as such are VERY exxy- this is the main reason I don't bother with CO2.
In a SoG system, pots of about 3L capacity (175mm dia x 175mm tall) are fine. SoG flowering plants don't get any veg time and as such don't get that large. You might even be able to go smaller than 3L depending upon various factors, such as media type & watering frequency.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Thanks.
I try to avoid PMs on cannabis boards; what seems to happen is I end up engaging in extended discussions of growing techniques and problems that are better carried out in open forums so everyone can benefit from the matters discussed and I don't repeat said discussions several times- often several hundred times!
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
hmm, OK, my hydro gear supplier is forcing my hand on my choice in media. They've discontinued Fytocell. I'll be using Sure-To-Grow loose fill from now on. So, for anyone who wants to see a serious test of the stuff, you're about to get your wish!
legaleyes13
Well-Known Member
I would love to use something other than clay pebbles, as they are somewhat impractical for anything other than a small grow, but something about fytocell and sure-to-grow loose seems disconcerting. I'm happy to hear that someone like you uses this stuff, it makes me think that it works just fine. Are the plants loose and fragile in those types of mediums? Does it effect growth or health?
tyler.durden
Well-Known Member
Hey, Al! I copied your set up and I love it. I used H202 at your recommended levels and it's worked well for me with GH 3 part nutes. I just bought Dutchmaster gold flowering nutes and found this copy about h2o2 on their website, and I wanted your opinion on what they had to say:
[TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD]HYDROGEN PEROXIDE:[/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Commonly known as H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB], is intended for cleaning equipment and treating well water only. Often, it is sold on the premises as "extra oxygen" for roots. H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB] is a highly reactive molecule. It is an oxidizing agent that is unstable in solution and tends to rip away electrons from other sources such as living matter (including root cells, bacteria and your skin!!) and chelating agents as well as reacting with other organic matter. This is what makes it an effective "cleaning" agent. However, for this reason it is not recommended in root zones or nutrient solutions. Adding too much H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB] can kill your plants by damaging the roots, and render 'Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions' less effective by breaking down chelating agents.
It is recommended that you follow label instructions on dilution rates and treat water beforehand with H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB] and allow at least 24 - 36 hours for most of it to react and become water and oxygen. Then use this "sterilized" and oxygenated water for your nutrient solution. Remember to keep the nutrient temperatures between 60 - 70 F / 16 - 22 C to keep the oxygen dissolved in the water.
[TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD]HYDROGEN PEROXIDE:[/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Commonly known as H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB], is intended for cleaning equipment and treating well water only. Often, it is sold on the premises as "extra oxygen" for roots. H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB] is a highly reactive molecule. It is an oxidizing agent that is unstable in solution and tends to rip away electrons from other sources such as living matter (including root cells, bacteria and your skin!!) and chelating agents as well as reacting with other organic matter. This is what makes it an effective "cleaning" agent. However, for this reason it is not recommended in root zones or nutrient solutions. Adding too much H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB] can kill your plants by damaging the roots, and render 'Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions' less effective by breaking down chelating agents.
It is recommended that you follow label instructions on dilution rates and treat water beforehand with H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB] and allow at least 24 - 36 hours for most of it to react and become water and oxygen. Then use this "sterilized" and oxygenated water for your nutrient solution. Remember to keep the nutrient temperatures between 60 - 70 F / 16 - 22 C to keep the oxygen dissolved in the water.
Al B my man ,, what is the best distance between the flood table and cieling ht ? as ill build my room to that requirement !! do you think a fan sucking fresh air in is best as well as a fan sucking out ? or just have a fan sucking out in cieling with a lower vent to let air flow come in ? cheers mate
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Plants do very well in both Fytocell & STG. Plants usually stand themselves up with no problem, but sometimes in leat flower, the weight of the budmass will tend to pull the plants down. This will happen in clay pellets, too. If you have a tray full of plants, they'll tend to prop one another up. You can also use plastic dowels to stake them up. Bamboo stakes tend to rot when stuck into a wet medium but will work for a couple of crops.
Clay pellets are a royal pain in the ass. Heavy, hard to dispose of, nearly impossible to clean sufficiently for re-use. Avoid if you can.
My opinion is that these guys are idiots. Ignore with extreme prejudice. If the rest of their advice is of this quality, they deserve approximately none of your business.
My room's ceiling is about 2.1m high. Trays are about 650mm from the floor.
Yes, you should be using both intake and exhaust fans. Your exhaust fan should be a centrifugal type, capable of shifting the entire air volume of the room in about 5 mins or less. I'm using a 250mm centrif similar to this one. My room is about 14,000 litres; that blower moves 410L/sec and will change the room air entirely in 34sec. Centrif blowers are necessary when you have long ducts, ductwork with bends or carbon filters inline, as centrifs can generate a fair amount of static pressure in the duct. Axial blowers can't do that- air will leak backward between the blades when there's any static pressure in the duct at all. However, they're OK to use as intake blowers when you are using a centrif exhaust blower. I use a pair of 150mm axials as intake blowers. The combined volumetric capacity of the axials is slightly less than the capacity of the centrif exhaust blower. This keeps the room at a slightly negative pressure; any air leaks in the room will thus leak inward. This means that scents will leave the room through the exhaust blower and the carbon filter which I have inline.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
OK, just got a 'post restriction' popup page which caused me to lose the entire text in my last post. It's SHEER LUCK that I habitually copy my text to the clipboard before posting.
WHAT IS THIS SHIT?!
WHAT IS THIS SHIT?!
tyler.durden
Well-Known Member
LOL! Glad to hear it. I've read good things about their nutes and already bought 'em so I'll see how it does this run. Yeah, this site fucks up sometimes like giving an error message and deleting your posts. I use the Lazarus add-on in Firefox, it saves pages of your text and is easier than cutting & pasting from a Word document. Thanks for the advice!
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
Hey al
wondering do you use canna and if so do you use the hole nute line?
wondering do you use canna and if so do you use the hole nute line?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
I've got Lazarus but sometimes it doesn't work. When I say 'copy to the clipboard' I mean Windows clipboard, nothing to do with Word.
I use Canna Classic and PK1314.
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