Jacks 3-2-1 order

rkymtnman said:

i would think with well water, 3/2/0 would be fine as well has mg.

with ro water and certain strains, it might not be enough.

kinda hard to generalize as there are way too many variables. try a side by side like i said.

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Thank you for the follow up.

When you suggested a side by side, I took that as a smartass comment and I didn't respond to it.

"with ro water and certain strains, it might not be enough." Could be but Jack's offers a really good set of chemicals without it. As do a lot of other manufacturers.

"kinda hard to generalize as there are way too many variables. try a side by side like i said."
I agree about there being a lot of variables.

Re. side by side - I don't have the resources or the interest, and any test that I come up with would, arguably, not be scientifically valid.

Since 3-2-0 provides a level of nutrients that fits within the ranges of nutrients that plants and, more specifically, cannabis need to grow and thrive. I'm happy with 3-2-0.

Delps8 said:

The appeal to authority is meaningless to me. I'm seeking information and trying to exchange ideas. If that was your only reply, I couldn't be bothered to respond.

My experience level has nothing to do with whether or not I should believe what someone posts on a website. I've been using the internet (or its precursor) since 1987 and I've learned a few things along the way.

Thank you for those links. Much appreciated.

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Do you have any horticulture knowledge beyond the internet?

Delps8 said:

3-2-0 is not uncommon and I saw this thread as maybe a way of finding what people think about it. That's all. No offense intended.

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Jacks 320 will work ok in most situations, but it's not optimal in many situations.

Thanks for the links folks. It's much appreciated.

Sulfur is part of the DNA, thus essential to all living things.
Plants have a high tolerance for S, plus the ion doesn't exert such a strong antagonism towards others, so it's typically chosen in recipe formulaes that use "salts" (=anion + kation) as counter-anion.
It can be stored by the plants in leaves but only to a minor decree (about 10% of nitrogen, roughly estimated) and is of medium mobility within the plant.
In soil it has the tendency to be washed out swiftly but is a constant byproduct of organic decay/mineralization so is usually available, and, through a rather broad pH range.

One of the problems with finding out a perfect nute recipe is that because of the antagonism you can't just change an isolate single variable. There's exceptions, but ultimately, the situation is way more complicated because that plant is a living entity, and responds reactively to a changed variable. The preface of "Characterization of Nutrient Disorders of Cannabis Sativa" touches on that

Delps8 said:

Take out the hyperbole and I agree. My knowledge is limited and that's why I'm asking questions.

The information that I have based on research is part of the learning process.

People approach the learning in different ways. One of the reasons why I take what I read here with a grain of salt is because I know that a lot of it is rote. It's repetition of what people do. That doesn't mean it's wrong, that just means that people are doing what they feel comfortable with, what has gotten them the results that they want, etc. That doesn't mean that it will work for me or that it wont work for me.

So, yes, I might fit what you think a "new grower" is like. That's your perception and I have no reason to disbelieve you. My interest was to get a sense of why people use the 1 in 3-2-1 when, based on a huge body of knowledge, there's no particular reason for it.

And after that simple question, which could have lead to a discussion, look at where this thread went.

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There is no hyperbole.

So you admit you have limited knowledge and almost zero experience. It's not hard to say you'll have a hard time distinguishing between what's right and wrong from what people post.

As already stated the "1" is used to balance the Ca content in the feed as well as to supplement the Sulphur.

Delps8 said:

Oh, I was just checking out this thread and wanted to clear things up for other readers.

I participate in 3 cannabis sites and RIU is the only one with good info about 3-2-1 though I have a question about why people use Epsom salts…

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Good source of magnesium and sulphur.

Delps8 said:

I understand that.

The issue is that the nutrient mix without the Epsom salts provides a high quality mix of chemicals. I realize it's what's on the bottles but the whole idea of a dry nutrient is to be able to control what's in your nutrient mix. As far as I know, there's just no need for it.

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I found it helpful for overall growth and for resin production.

twentyeight.threefive said:

Yes that is the correct order. Part A and Epsom Salts can be added together. I usually let most of the Part A dissolve while measuring the Epsom Salts and then add it in. No need for it to be fully dissolved.

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what about hydro guard should that go before or after the silica.

I do powerSi then part A then epsom then part b and i get white floaters in about 2 days.... its the powerSi ...
on the website it says power si then cal mag then everything else. so i wonder if i don't need to go powerSi, Epsom MgSO4, then Part A, and finaly Part B. ? ima try that some day.
plants seem to like it none the less but probably missing out with the ppt. / not sure if anyone else has had the problem or not or if it was mentioned in this thread?
actually upon further review, it should be powerSi,[ MgSO4, part B(CaNitrate)] then part A. i think.

You can keep this very simple with any brand.

1. Silica
2. Base Fertilizer (Grow, Bloom, etc)
3. Additives
4. pH adjusters

Notes
Mix each ingredient fully before adding another product to help prevent chemical reactions (clouding, slime etc).
If you fuck up and forget silica first, add the desired dose to a gallon of pure water before dumping into reservoir, this can dilute the solution enough where it doesn't react (cloud) with the other products already in suspension in the water.
If the reservoir reacts chemically and goes slimy or stays cloudy it's usually best to abort the solution (Drain it).

calvin.m16 said:

You can keep this very simple with any brand.

1. Silica
2. Base Fertilizer (Grow, Bloom, etc)
3. Additives
4. pH adjusters

Notes
Mix each ingredient fully before adding another product to help prevent chemical reactions (clouding, slime etc).
If you fuck up and forget silica first, add the desired dose to a gallon of pure water before dumping into reservoir, this can dilute the solution enough where it doesn't react (cloud) with the other products already in suspension in the water.
If the reservoir reacts chemically and goes slimy or stays cloudy it's usually best to abort the solution (Drain it).

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yeah has NOT been working for me.... white floaters... snot.. nothing "bad" happens but i think the expensive silica is ppting

perhaps i need to add the individual elements to larger quantities of water before adding ... big PITA though when you've got 5 or 6 reservoirs (outdoor peppers). will try again in a week or so.

sometimes I take a half way depleated res and make it whole.. I added the silica to a 5 gal of tap.. ppm 340 ish and dump that in.... then top off and add nutes. maybe in that case the tap water is the issue? ? IDK

I tried again this time mixing the powerSi in a gallon of RO... added that to the nearly full res of tap water ..... then accidentally i added the part A and the epsom directly (concentrated stock solution) doh... everything was fine... then i added part B (calcium nitrate) to 1 gallon of tap water... then into the res... no floaters no snot. ! yay