Killing Root Rot

So. What if I put them in dirt or perlite? Will that eliminate it? I don't want my moms in hydro any more anyways

So now im a little confused. i had a root rot or what was more like stem rot at the root ball of my flowering plants. I nursed them to harvest and got lucky with a couple of them.

I worry that my mothers have it. They seem to be doing well but if they have it my clones are probably doomed. Or are they ?

Can i use clorox or not ?

And if so, how much ?

So I bought a chlorine test kit (strips) 0 -10 PPM.

I added about 30ml to 45 gallon reservoir and basically no reading, I ultimatly had to add 100 + ml and then I received a 1 PPM reading but only for about 5 or 10 minutes then not detectable again.

So is it oxidizing my nutrients that quick or what am i not understanding about this. I thought I should be able to have a residuale 1 PPM level but OMG how much would that require?

I then tool just 25ml to a 55 gallons of clean water and it retained a residual of 2 PPM for over a day so far??

Please explain someone....

Pythium is an opportunistic pathogen. That means it attacks weak plants. You can take clones which can overcome the problem but it can be difficult due to the susceptible nature of the new root growth.

I started another thread on here somewhere - I will summarize. First, clone in cool, well aerated, low PH solution around 5.5-5.7. All these things help slow the multiplication of the Pythium. A clone machine is probably very useful given the aerobic condition.

You can also experiment with soaking cuttings in a mild bleach solution first. Around 5 drops / gal should work.

I can tell you that if you can get clones to take and you are careful, they can make a 100% recovery. If you have a prize strain this might be worth it. Oh, and as I have learned, always keep a mom in some good well aerated soil or soil less. Hydroponics can cause quick, dramatic growth but it can just as easily cause quick, catastrophic failure. Soil type mediums are much more forgiving.

RickWhite said:

Pythium is an opportunistic pathogen. That means it attacks weak plants. You can take clones which can overcome the problem but it can be difficult due to the susceptible nature of the new root growth.

I started another thread on here somewhere - I will summarize. First, clone in cool, well aerated, low PH solution around 5.5-5.7. All these things help slow the multiplication of the Pythium. A clone machine is probably very useful given the aerobic condition.

You can also experiment with soaking cuttings in a mild bleach solution first. Around 5 drops / gal should work.

I can tell you that if you can get clones to take and you are careful, they can make a 100% recovery. If you have a prize strain this might be worth it. Oh, and as I have learned, always keep a mom in some good well aerated soil or soil less. Hydroponics can cause quick, dramatic growth but it can just as easily cause quick, catastrophic failure. Soil type mediums are much more forgiving.

Click to expand...

Thanks!!

Thanks, I will keep you posted on this issue.

i81two said:

So now im a little confused. i had a root rot or what was more like stem rot at the root ball of my flowering plants. I nursed them to harvest and got lucky with a couple of them.

I worry that my mothers have it. They seem to be doing well but if they have it my clones are probably doomed. Or are they ?

Can i use clorox or not ?

And if so, how much ?

Click to expand...

The first thing you do is cut past (and out) the diseased tissue. Then treat.

doctorwsj said:

So I bought a chlorine test kit (strips) 0 -10 PPM.

I added about 30ml to 45 gallon reservoir and basically no reading, I ultimatly had to add 100 + ml and then I received a 1 PPM reading but only for about 5 or 10 minutes then not detectable again.

So is it oxidizing my nutrients that quick or what am i not understanding about this. I thought I should be able to have a residuale 1 PPM level but OMG how much would that require?

I then tool just 25ml to a 55 gallons of clean water and it retained a residual of 2 PPM for over a day so far??

Please explain someone....

Click to expand...

I'm dealing with the same issue, seems like I'm adding alot of clorox to just get 1ppm and it doesnt last long in the system probably from all the aeration..
So I'm with ya on having this explained by someone, dont want to get too crazy with the bleach

Update:

I am now working with 2nd generation clones taken from lightly infected plants and they are still struggling during cloning. I don't know if survival rate will ever be what it was.

For now, I suggest starting with way more clones than you wish to keep.

Fatman, is the chlorine solution also safe to use in a cloner before the roots have formed? should I use a lighter solution in that case?

saving this thread

lol,anywhere fatman posts it turns into a riot ..

K been following this post for a while, had a pytium maybe water mold problem. White snot floating in rez and airstone eventually getting on the roots. The roots would then be so covered in snot they would brown and die. I checked light leaks, montered temps, added h202, bleach, root excelerator, plantacilan. cleaning rez and roots constantly with nothing working. I would say about 70 percent infected in my dwc system. Finaly ran into a product called Guardian Angel. Shit works wonders. Bleach seemed to work alright but the out break was so bad it just couldnt stop it. My plants made a "FULL" recovery within the last few weeks of flower. ill have a few pics soon.

Hard to tell but all the above roots were blacked and root rotted. gardian angel was able to recover the plants and by the end of flower was brand new white roots that were not effected at all by the snot.

Highly reccomend for anyone fighting pythium, white snot, water mold

To kill a pythium infection 2ppm chlorine is required with a second dosage 30 min after the initial doseage.

Pythium is commonly carried by fungus gnats, and beneficials will not kill a pythium infection like some nutrient companies would like you to beleive. They simply compete for food and can help to keep pythium in check.

Heres some good reading:

http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/pythium.htm

check out all the different kinds of pythium!

• Pythium acanthicum
• Pythium acanthophoron
• Pythium acrogynum
• Pythium adhaerens
• Pythium amasculinum
• Pythium anandrum
• Pythium angustatum
• Pythium aphanidermatum
• Pythium apleroticum
• Pythium aquatile
• Pythium aristosporum
• Pythium arrhenomanes
• Pythium attrantheridium
• Pythium bifurcatum
• Pythium boreale
• Pythium buismaniae
• Pythium butleri
• Pythium campanulatum
• Pythium canariense
• Pythium capillosum
• Pythium carbonicum
• Pythium carolinianum
• Pythium catenulatum
• Pythium chamaehyphon
• Pythium chondricola
• Pythium citrinum
• Pythium coloratum
• Pythium conidiophorum
• Pythium contiguanum
• Pythium cryptoirregulare
• Pythium cucurbitacearum
• Pythium cylindrosporum
• Pythium cystogenes
• Pythium debaryanum

• Pythium deliense
• Pythium destruens
• Pythium diclinum
• Pythium dimorphum
• Pythium dissimile
• Pythium dissotocum
• Pythium echinulatum
• Pythium erinaceum
• Pythium flevoense
• Pythium folliculosum
• Pythium glomeratum
• Pythium graminicola
• Pythium grandisporangium
• Pythium guiyangense
• Pythium helicandrum
• Pythium helicoides
• Pythium heterothallicum
• Pythium hydnosporum
• Pythium hypogynum
• Pythium indigoferae
• Pythium inflatum
• Pythium insidiosum
• Pythium intermedium
• Pythium irregulare
• Pythium iwayamai
• Pythium jasmonium
• Pythium kunmingense
• Pythium litorale
• Pythium longandrum
• Pythium longisporangium
• Pythium lutarium
• Pythium macrosporum
• Pythium mamillatum
• Pythium marinum

• Pythium marsipium
• Pythium mastophorum
• Pythium megacarpum
• Pythium megalacanthum
• Pythium middletonii
• Pythium minus
• Pythium monospermum
• Pythium montanum
• Pythium multisporum
• Pythium myriotylum
• Pythium nagaii
• Pythium nodosum
• Pythium nunn
• Pythium oedochilum
• Pythium okanoganense
• Pythium oligandrum
• Pythium ornacarpum
• Pythium orthogonon
• Pythium ostracodes
• Pythium pachycaule
• Pythium pachycaule
• Pythium paddicum
• Pythium paroecandrum
• Pythium parvum
• Pythium pectinolyticum
• Pythium periilum
• Pythium periplocum
• Pythium perplexum
• Pythium phragmitis
• Pythium pleroticum
• Pythium plurisporium
• Pythium polymastum
• Pythium porphyrae
• Pythium prolatum

• Pythium proliferatum
• Pythium pulchrum
• Pythium pyrilobum
• Pythium quercum
• Pythium radiosum
• Pythium ramificatum
• Pythium regulare
• Pythium rhizo-oryzae
• Pythium rhizosaccharum
• Pythium rostratifingens
• Pythium rostratum
• Pythium salpingophorum
• Pythium scleroteichum
• Pythium segnitium
• Pythium spiculum
• Pythium spinosum
• Pythium splendens
• Pythium sterilum
• Pythium stipitatum
• Pythium sulcatum
• Pythium sylvaticum
• Pythium terrestris
• Pythium torulosum
• Pythium tracheiphilum
• Pythium ultimum
• Pythium uncinulatum
• Pythium undulatum
• Pythium vanterpoolii
• Pythium vexans
• Pythium viniferum
• Pythium violae
• Pythium volutum
• Pythium zingiberis
• Pythium zingiberum

sometimes its because of your root temps its a common newb mistake am probaly guessing your res temps is below 70f try getting a water chiller and keep the res temp between 65f and 68f

gets some azamax it should clear Pythium up

Coals said:

To kill a pythium infection 2ppm chlorine is required with a second dosage 30 min after the initial doseage.

Pythium is commonly carried by fungus gnats, and beneficials will not kill a pythium infection like some nutrient companies would like you to beleive. They simply compete for food and can help to keep pythium in check.

Heres some good reading:

http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/pythium.htm

check out all the different kinds of pythium!

• Pythium acanthicum
• Pythium acanthophoron
• Pythium acrogynum
• Pythium adhaerens
• Pythium amasculinum
• Pythium anandrum
• Pythium angustatum
• Pythium aphanidermatum
• Pythium apleroticum
• Pythium aquatile
• Pythium aristosporum
• Pythium arrhenomanes
• Pythium attrantheridium
• Pythium bifurcatum
• Pythium boreale
• Pythium buismaniae
• Pythium butleri
• Pythium campanulatum
• Pythium canariense
• Pythium capillosum
• Pythium carbonicum
• Pythium carolinianum
• Pythium catenulatum
• Pythium chamaehyphon
• Pythium chondricola
• Pythium citrinum
• Pythium coloratum
• Pythium conidiophorum
• Pythium contiguanum
• Pythium cryptoirregulare
• Pythium cucurbitacearum
• Pythium cylindrosporum
• Pythium cystogenes
• Pythium debaryanum

• Pythium deliense
• Pythium destruens
• Pythium diclinum
• Pythium dimorphum
• Pythium dissimile
• Pythium dissotocum
• Pythium echinulatum
• Pythium erinaceum
• Pythium flevoense
• Pythium folliculosum
• Pythium glomeratum
• Pythium graminicola
• Pythium grandisporangium
• Pythium guiyangense
• Pythium helicandrum
• Pythium helicoides
• Pythium heterothallicum
• Pythium hydnosporum
• Pythium hypogynum
• Pythium indigoferae
• Pythium inflatum
• Pythium insidiosum
• Pythium intermedium
• Pythium irregulare
• Pythium iwayamai
• Pythium jasmonium
• Pythium kunmingense
• Pythium litorale
• Pythium longandrum
• Pythium longisporangium
• Pythium lutarium
• Pythium macrosporum
• Pythium mamillatum
• Pythium marinum

• Pythium marsipium
• Pythium mastophorum
• Pythium megacarpum
• Pythium megalacanthum
• Pythium middletonii
• Pythium minus
• Pythium monospermum
• Pythium montanum
• Pythium multisporum
• Pythium myriotylum
• Pythium nagaii
• Pythium nodosum
• Pythium nunn
• Pythium oedochilum
• Pythium okanoganense
• Pythium oligandrum
• Pythium ornacarpum
• Pythium orthogonon
• Pythium ostracodes
• Pythium pachycaule
• Pythium pachycaule
• Pythium paddicum
• Pythium paroecandrum
• Pythium parvum
• Pythium pectinolyticum
• Pythium periilum
• Pythium periplocum
• Pythium perplexum
• Pythium phragmitis
• Pythium pleroticum
• Pythium plurisporium
• Pythium polymastum
• Pythium porphyrae
• Pythium prolatum

• Pythium proliferatum
• Pythium pulchrum
• Pythium pyrilobum
• Pythium quercum
• Pythium radiosum
• Pythium ramificatum
• Pythium regulare
• Pythium rhizo-oryzae
• Pythium rhizosaccharum
• Pythium rostratifingens
• Pythium rostratum
• Pythium salpingophorum
• Pythium scleroteichum
• Pythium segnitium
• Pythium spiculum
• Pythium spinosum
• Pythium splendens
• Pythium sterilum
• Pythium stipitatum
• Pythium sulcatum
• Pythium sylvaticum
• Pythium terrestris
• Pythium torulosum
• Pythium tracheiphilum
• Pythium ultimum
• Pythium uncinulatum
• Pythium undulatum
• Pythium vanterpoolii
• Pythium vexans
• Pythium viniferum
• Pythium violae
• Pythium volutum
• Pythium zingiberis
• Pythium zingiberum

Click to expand...

Rather than telling us to add 2 or 4 PPM to our reservoirs, would any of you know how much bleach would be needed per gallon in order to raise it roughly 2-4 PPM? As in ____ML, rather than just suggesting we add a "few drops". I have a large reservoir and I don't want to sit there counting hundreds of drops. lol

Also, how often do we add it? Just one time or do we need a maintenance dose?

ty

Cissy- read post # 19 I think it should answer your question

I have a flower and veg room with flood & drain tables, 2 separate 40 gallons res. I had a killer case of root rot, after frantic research I decided to just add 12 oz. of H2O2 and fresh R/O water to my veg res. after flushing with florakleen. It did not kill anything! and the rumors that it kills is crap, The vegging plants recovered in a week with white roots. I replaced water with mild nutes and first time using Great White beneficial bacteria, this shit rocks!!!! Plants have come back and now I have zero problems in both Veg and flower rooms. I use AN nutes 1 and 2 for both rooms but sensizyme in flower res. while Great white in Veg. Kickin Ass!!!!!!!! The cause of root rot was most likely over watering, PH, and strong nutes! cut watering in 1/2 now roots race to find moisture.