Ladybirds, Ladybugs, Lady Beetles - or whatever your country calls them

I've seen mantises eat ladybugs like a nice slice of watermelon.

Tomorrow is harvest day &
To them it is the holocaust
For thees are the cry’s of the carrots
Can I get a amen ?

Life feeds on life

Sanitas Vibrationum said:

Nothing beats Spinosad if you are desperate. I used it on my buddy's grow - shit just gets job done with 3 applications even late in flower. I believe that fungus breaks down to basic sugars with no residue withing a week and plants are happy to consume them.

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FORBID 4F does.

1 light top of the leaf spraying and done.

Spinosad is a systemic and organic solution that works.

Dr. Who said:

FORBID 4F does.

1 light top of the leaf spraying and done.

Spinosad is a systemic and organic solution that works.

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Forbid 4f is only meant for ornamentals. There's a formulation of it that's sold for use on crops meant for consumption but the percentage of the active ingredient is so much smaller that you really can't even compare the two.

Dr. Who said:

FORBID 4F does.

1 light top of the leaf spraying and done.

Spinosad is a systemic and organic solution that works.

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Isn't Forbid 4 systemic as well? (Same with Avid?)

And just on top of the leaf? makes sense if it's systemic.

Respectfully,
SS

It's also translaminar. It's not systemic.

Oberon is the 23% and Forbid the 45% These are the concentrations in the bottle. 8 drops of FORBID per gallon of water, is the average application rate for successful use on cannabis. 16 drops for the Oberon.

You should choose whats good for you to use.

I suggest you read very closely the toxicology reports for the active ingredient - Spiromesifen. Bout as low as you can get for human toxic ratings. When used properly!

Did you know that it's in a chain of organic acids?
Did you know that these acids are used in hand lotions?
Did you know it kills by the same path as insecticide soaps?

The labels on any insecticide are a government requirement. They are very, very general by nature.....In so much the Fed. classifications are rather broad....

Besides, I didn't say use it. I said it beats Spino in effectiveness!

SSGrower said:

Isn't Forbid 4 systemic as well? (Same with Avid?)

And just on top of the leaf? makes sense if it's systemic.

Respectfully,
SS

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Translaminar.
That means it is applied (lightly) to the leaf surface. The compound then travels to the bottom of the leaf (where your mites feed) and begins to break down.
It does not travel around the plant = systemic does!

You can root drench an imid based insecticide and it'll be throughout the whole plant in less then 24 hrs.

AVID is very human toxic too (the active ingredient) Not so for Forbid or Oberon.
Floramite is worse yet.

Dr. Who said:

It's also translaminar. It's not systemic.

Oberon is the 23% and Forbid the 45% These are the concentrations in the bottle. 8 drops of FORBID per gallon of water, is the average application rate for successful use on cannabis. 16 drops for the Oberon.

You should choose whats good for you to use.

I suggest you read very closely the toxicology reports for the active ingredient - Spiromesifen. Bout as low as you can get for human toxic ratings. When used properly!

Did you know that it's in a chain of organic acids?
Did you know that these acids are used in hand lotions?
Did you know it kills by the same path as insecticide soaps?

The labels on any insecticide are a government requirement. They are very, very general by nature.....In so much the Fed. classifications are rather broad....

Besides, I didn't say use it. I said it beats Spino in effectiveness!

Click to expand...

Thank you,
Was asking for my education, have never used either forbid or avid but have been tempted.

What you say is true about epa reg numbers, but if for instance neem oil does not need to be sold with an epa number as it sold as "leaf polish", see also Organocide, dr. Bonners, things that have insecticidal properties arent necessarily sold as insecticides. I believe we are in agreeme t on this just a pointmof clarifacation.

I'm not saying to use any of this stuff either, just looking to educate myself so I can make better decisions in the future.

As far as any insecticide goes.

I suggest deeply investigating the active ingred. and deciding if it's something you might choose to use.

In any advanced and hard to kill infestation (including Russet and Broad mites at any infection rate). Forbid is the end all do all solution.
Or you can kill off the plants and sanitize very carefully your whole operation to start over.

Dr. Who said:

Translaminar.
That means it is applied (lightly) to the leaf surface. The compound then travels to the bottom of the leaf (where your mites feed) and begins to break down.
It does not travel around the plant = systemic does!

You can root drench an imid based insecticide and it'll be throughout the whole plant in less then 24 hrs.

AVID is very human toxic too (the active ingredient) Not so for Forbid or Oberon.
Floramite is worse yet.

Click to expand...

Ok,
I misunderstood, I did not realize it was not mobile within the plant.

SSGrower said:

Thank you,
Was asking for my education, have never used either forbid or avid but have been tempted.

What you say is true about epa reg numbers, but if for instance neem oil does not need to be sold with an epa number as it sold as "leaf polish", see also Organocide, dr. Bonners, things that have insecticidal properties arent necessarily sold as insecticides. I believe we are in agreeme t on this just a pointmof clarifacation.

I'm not saying to use any of this stuff either, just looking to educate myself so I can make better decisions in the future.

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That's all I'm trying to do!

Supply educational information.....Thanks for the positive reply!

I researched Spiromesifen very deeply. I've used it only twice, and that was over around 7 - 8 years ago.

I don't use or like Neem either..... Not a fan of putting any "oil" on my plants, period!

Stuff has a bad effective shelf life too.....

iknownothink said:

So has anyone had an success with these friendly little fellows eating the pesky Spider Mites ?

I've been doing some testing / observation of a plant with a small infection of the mites over the last few days and so far they Lady birds don't want a bar of the plants or the mites. The room is a completely sealed room indoors. So far I've caught about 9 Ladybirds, a mix of 3 different coloured looking ones that I've found around the garden outside, a few larger orange ones and a few smaller bright red ones.

So i basically catch the ladybirds, put them on the plant in question and they either hang around on the same leaf I put them on for a few hours, or they just fly off and either hang around the room, or eventually fly out the air conditioner vent... I can even put them a few mm from mites and they just don't seem interested at all. They would rather hang around on the walls rather than chill on the plant with the mites !

So whats the deal ? Have the 9 I've found just not been hungry, or is this a particular mite that they don't eat ?

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Didn't mean tomderail your thread so to comment on your situation,

The numbers arent in your favor, I think its cool you went and captured lady bugs and by all means keep them, but IME you need hundreds in even the smallest of areas and even then thy just fly away. If i ever try them again I'll try the sugar glue mentioned earlier.

Dr. Who said:

I don't use or like Neem either..... Not a fan of putting any "oil" on my plants, period!

Stuff has a bad effective shelf life too.....

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Real bad, not for me (originally thought it was contact only but seeing more evidence its systemic too). and I dont think I wwant neem (or karanga) cake either, just cause its natural and homeopathic doesent mean its automatically the right choice.

SSGrower said:

Real bad, not for me (originally thought it was contact only but seeing more evidence its systemic too). and I dont think I wwant neem (or karanga) cake either, just cause its natural and homeopathic doesent mean its automatically the right choice.

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+rep bro!

Besides, I didn't say use it. I said it beats Spino in effectiveness![/QUOTE]


To be fair yours was also in response to what beats spinosad when you're desperate. I still think the best thing going is Dr Zymes for it's effectiveness when used right and it's being rated for use up to the day of harvest for food crops. It is ridiculously expensive though.

I do have a bottle of forbid 4f that I use in my atomizer for greenhouses. As long as I'm far enough from harvest it's the most practical and economic thing out there.

Dr. Who said:

+rep bro!

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It's funny how so many even think that organic means no pesticides. You should see the look on people's faces when you tell them that anthrax is organic.

ANC said:

Ladybirds, Ladybugs, Lady Beetles - or whatever you call bugs that shit in your weed.

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They are still in veg.. plus I'd rather some plants with lady bird poop than dead plants or plants with Spider Mite web

Indagrow said:

We call them ladyboys

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Ha ha yeah I think that might be another type of lady there buddy. plus its a long way to Thailand from Australia

Thanks for the answers chaps, I usually use the Eco nem oil and the chili spray, this was more just a curiosity killed the cat sort of trial as I've heard so much about Ladybirds.

Update* in the last batch of 5 bugs I put in the room 2 days later there is 2 bugs that have actually stuck around and look like they are actually eating some of the mites on the undersides of the leaves !

I think I'll stick with the sprays, as I don't really want to keep annoying the Ladybugs if they don't want to help lol

iknownothink said:

They are still in veg.. plus I'd rather some plants with lady bird poop than dead plants or plants with Spider Mite web



Ha ha yeah I think that might be another type of lady there buddy. plus its a long way to Thailand from Australia

Thanks for the answers chaps, I usually use the Eco nem oil and the chili spray, this was more just a curiosity killed the cat sort of trial as I've heard so much about Ladybirds.

Update* in the last batch of 5 bugs I put in the room 2 days later there is 2 bugs that have actually stuck around and look like they are actually eating some of the mites on the undersides of the leaves !

I think I'll stick with the sprays, as I don't really want to keep annoying the Ladybugs if they don't want to help lol

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Bottom line sir. Ladybugs are not a great choice for mites! Skip them, as others have said before.

Predator mites!

You might choose to use a Flea & Tick house bomb in the area. The active ingredient is Pyrethrins. SAME damn thing as Dr. Dooms mite bombs, only far cheaper (because they don't market them for growing plants and mite problems).

This also goes a long way to helping get rid of any "in transit." (moving from one place to another in your grow.) You should sanitize the whole area and everything in it, Walls floor, ceiling. Every surface and include all undersides of anything.

Do one and 7 days later do another.

The active life of that Pyrethrin is measured in HOURS! In 24 hrs it has degraded to basically gone.

Pyrethrins are derived from Chrysanthemum's. You know, the flower your mom grew, that flowered in the fall. The flower plant you see surrounding veggie gardens......

Even small and weak concentrations. Sprayed around the floor and at every crack and crevice in your grow. Will repel bugs from entering for a long time.

That's how Mitey Wash works. It contains minute amounts of pyrethrin. It repels them away....

Good luck