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Was this informative?

  • Will you seek more info on this?

    Votes: 6 85.7%

  • Will you try this technique?

    Votes: 1 14.3%
  • Total voters
    7
  • Poll closed .
Ole Budheavy

Ole Budheavy

Well-Known Member
Hello fellow herb connoisseurs. I have a technique that I learned about in horticulture classes. This seems to be a perfect type of wounding for an annual crop like herb. First a brief lesson on physiology.
1. the XYLEM brings water and nutrients up to the leaves so they and the plant can continue to grow. ***Located in the middle part of stems.
2. the PHOLEM brings photosythates (sugars) down to the roots so they can continue to grow and absorb water and nutes. ***Only makes up 5-10% of exterior layer of stems.
3. Make a slight cut in the main stem all the way around it 6"-12" above the root line.
This is done during the bloom phase. I would say to do it a couple of weeks into flowering.
**This will block the photosynthates from traveling down to the roots. It will use those sugars to produce juicier buds.
 
DarkSarcasm420

DarkSarcasm420

Well-Known Member
if you do this too early in the bloom phase then the plant will not continue to get larger. consider when the plant gets root bound. does it continue to grow. no it maintains and attempts to find more space for roots. so if the roots are unable to grow then the plants buds will not grow larger. possibly jucier but not bigger. i would do as unkle sam said and do this no more than two weeks before harvest. during you final flush. this way the buds are at their max already pretty much anyway. then the photosynthates (sugars) will stay in the bud and sweeten the load.
 
G

Greenisgold

Well-Known Member
Ole Budheavy said:
Hello fellow herb connoisseurs. I have a technique that I learned about in horticulture classes. This seems to be a perfect type of wounding for an annual crop like herb. First a brief lesson on physiology.
1. the XYLEM brings water and nutrients up to the leaves so they and the plant can continue to grow. ***Located in the middle part of stems.
2. the PHOLEM brings photosythates (sugars) down to the roots so they can continue to grow and absorb water and nutes. ***Only makes up 5-10% of exterior layer of stems.
3. Make a slight cut in the main stem all the way around it 6"-12" above the root line.
This is done during the bloom phase. I would say to do it a couple of weeks into flowering.
**This will block the photosynthates from traveling down to the roots. It will use those sugars to produce juicier buds.
Click to expand...
What is a slight cut?
6-12" above the root line? So this could be around 5 nodes above the root line. What happens to the stems below?

Do this a couple weeks into flowering so you get juicier buds? Plants are not even budding, for the most part, 2 weeks in.

So what are your findings with this experiment?
Come on dude, do you really think were buying this? Show us proof in regards to a controlled experiment with MJ, or don't post this drivel.
 
T

tokinman

Well-Known Member
3. Make a slight cut in the main stem all the way around it 6"-12" above the root line.
This is done during the bloom phase. I would say to do it a couple of weeks into flowering.
**This will block the photosynthates from traveling down to the roots. It will use those sugars to produce juicier buds.
Click to expand...
i know by cutting bark off of a tree all the way around it, it kills the tree. assuming with this you are just making a shallow cut around the edge forcing it to pull water from the 'inner' veins?? interesting idea for someone brave to try.. i know most soil growers just add molasses for a sugar boost and it works great w/o harming the plant.
 
Ole Budheavy

Ole Budheavy

Well-Known Member
What I mean by a slight cut I mean razor thin. Like when you score something with a razor blade or utility knife or box-cutter. Just use a new razor blade and slightly score the epidermis (outer layer) of the main stem. NOTE: you ONLY perform this on plants to be uprooted, NOT plants intended for REGENERATION.

OK, make the score below the lowest branch, that's more specific to each plant's needs.

As far as WHEN to do this during the BLOOM cycle, I don't see why the mature roots being deprived of additional photosynthates after the vegetative period will negatively impact bud development and yield. The roots still will function the same by absorbing water and nutrients. The xylem will still transport water and nutes to where the plant needs it. The phloem will not transport sugars down to the roots...that's the point! BTW it doesn't matter if plants aren't budding at that point, the plant is on its way to flowering.

I will have an experiment going soon. But I need a very secure place to grow, you know, typical bullshit.
 
Ole Budheavy

Ole Budheavy

Well-Known Member
pryodex said:
would adding just plain sugar work?
Click to expand...
Adding molasses or sugar seems to be a crock of shit. Plants manufacture their food by absorption of nutrients. In order to use these nutes, they have to be water soluble or they require the soil microbes to decompose the organic material until it is water soluble. What is in molasses that really is beneficial to the plant?:roll:
 
mo841

mo841

Well-Known Member
i could see how this would work and if i had more then on good plant i would try it.
 
B

BeatenByTheWorld

Well-Known Member
yes regular sugar will work
No you should NOT use white sugar used for coffee, it is bleached(so are coffee beans) use 100% natural cane sugar or raw sugar (its yellowish) or natural brown sugar(this is raw sugar and molasses mixed)

Grandmas unsulphured mollasses provides carbohydrates, sugars, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and iron as well as 'food' for beneficial bacteria in the dirt(sugars) to help the roots colonize. What the mollasses provides is brand specific, just read the nutrients table,
sugars and carbs help it convert energy from the light better and the mag will keep it greener as long as N it up to par making the plant able to use more light during the daylight period. This also helps the plant produce enzymes and hormones needed to stay hearty during its life cycle.

Anything you feed a plant must be UNSULPHURED. Gatorade/powerade anything that has an ingredient listed as a sulfate will cause your roots to stock taking up water because it will produce insane amounts of salt deposits on the roots.


In theory your idea about cutting around the stock could work. BUT you have to take into consideration, if your using chemical fertilizers, and if you don't check your moisture level daily(if using dirt) you are GOING to have some roots that die out. Not to mention the larger roots leaching usable water from the smaller roots. If you do this too early the roots won't be able to replace the roots that are lost. As you know root mass it relative to leaf/plant mass.

If you don't have enough roots to take up nutrients to fully support the plant it will spread out what it is taking up just for survival. Even if you could grow through the whole 8-12 week flower period like this, the stress it would cause would be detramental to the crop size and quality.

IF you ARE going to try this the best time would be the Last time you give your plants fertilizers.

If you do try it at the beginning I would get a vitamin or hormone supplement such as Superthrive just so the roots can produce mass by themselves and the plant won't be as stressed because of the better internal enzyme balance created by the vitamins.


My buddy is pretty scientific on this shit, we were actually just talking about a similar technique. By cutting off the 2 bottom nodes/shoots at the stalk about 3 weeks into flowering(or when all tips have established small hair balls) it will not try to regenerate there and it will do like you said. It will block the sugars from going down past that point, because once that part heals it gets a hard dry spot on the inside there. by doing the bottom 2 nodes you create a 'crossroads in the stem' and it greatly reduces sugar loss without damaging the stalk and without completely cutting off the roots.

This also causes the plant to concentrate its flowering into the top buds to better attract pollen since it recognizes it will be down potentially 4 flowers. But realistically they're just gonna be the popcorn buds at the bottom anyways.

Its important to wait until they're in full flower, no tweeners or you'll stress it and itll hermie.
 
mcinnc

mcinnc

Well-Known Member
African growers have been practicing a version of this method for hundreds of years. They let goats chew on the stems in alot of areas.
 
Ole Budheavy

Ole Budheavy

Well-Known Member
BeatenByTheWorld said:
yes regular sugar will work
No you should NOT use white sugar used for coffee, it is bleached(so are coffee beans) use 100% natural cane sugar or raw sugar (its yellowish) or natural brown sugar(this is raw sugar and molasses mixed)

Grandmas unsulphured mollasses provides carbohydrates, sugars, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and iron as well as 'food' for beneficial bacteria in the dirt(sugars) to help the roots colonize. What the mollasses provides is brand specific, just read the nutrients table,
sugars and carbs help it convert energy from the light better and the mag will keep it greener as long as N it up to par making the plant able to use more light during the daylight period. This also helps the plant produce enzymes and hormones needed to stay hearty during its life cycle.

Anything you feed a plant must be UNSULPHURED. Gatorade/powerade anything that has an ingredient listed as a sulfate will cause your roots to stock taking up water because it will produce insane amounts of salt deposits on the roots.


In theory your idea about cutting around the stock could work. BUT you have to take into consideration, if your using chemical fertilizers, and if you don't check your moisture level daily(if using dirt) you are GOING to have some roots that die out. Not to mention the larger roots leaching usable water from the smaller roots. If you do this too early the roots won't be able to replace the roots that are lost. As you know root mass it relative to leaf/plant mass.

If you don't have enough roots to take up nutrients to fully support the plant it will spread out what it is taking up just for survival. Even if you could grow through the whole 8-12 week flower period like this, the stress it would cause would be detramental to the crop size and quality.

IF you ARE going to try this the best time would be the Last time you give your plants fertilizers.

If you do try it at the beginning I would get a vitamin or hormone supplement such as Superthrive just so the roots can produce mass by themselves and the plant won't be as stressed because of the better internal enzyme balance created by the vitamins.


My buddy is pretty scientific on this shit, we were actually just talking about a similar technique. By cutting off the 2 bottom nodes/shoots at the stalk about 3 weeks into flowering(or when all tips have established small hair balls) it will not try to regenerate there and it will do like you said. It will block the sugars from going down past that point, because once that part heals it gets a hard dry spot on the inside there. by doing the bottom 2 nodes you create a 'crossroads in the stem' and it greatly reduces sugar loss without damaging the stalk and without completely cutting off the roots.

This also causes the plant to concentrate its flowering into the top buds to better attract pollen since it recognizes it will be down potentially 4 flowers. But realistically they're just gonna be the popcorn buds at the bottom anyways.

Its important to wait until they're in full flower, no tweeners or you'll stress it and itll hermie.
Click to expand...
Hey bro i appreciate your response. :joint: And quite a response at that. Well you make many valid points, however the point of this method is not to stress the plant when its vegging. That my friend would be disastrous. What I would advise is to use this method sometime 2/3 into flower and the roots won't need any more sugars. You guys know what sap is from a tree right? Well that sap is essential what all dicotyledons have in the pholem (the outer layer); a sticky material manufactured in the leaves that flows down to the roots as is used for their metabolism. Essentially cutting off that supply might also be accomplished if one was to girdle the stem with a tight wire or maybe even HEMP rope. :joint:
By cutting off the 2 bottom nodes/shoots at the stalk about 3 weeks into flowering(or when all tips have established small hair balls) it will not try to regenerate there and it will do like you said.It will block the sugars from going down past that point, because once that part heals it gets a hard dry spot on the inside there. by doing the bottom 2 nodes you create a 'crossroads in the stem' and it greatly reduces sugar loss without damaging the stalk and without completely cutting off the roots.
No this is not at all what I'm talking about. Look up vascular system for plants.
And I would also suggest lollipoping is not part of this discussion, however I agree all should do this for larger cola(s) growth. :joint:
 
B

BeatenByTheWorld

Well-Known Member
when cutting the bottom chutes off, the remaining part of that chute dies. if u ever spit the stem of a death plant you'll see that stem does THROUGH the layer your speaking of cutting.

Once that stem dies, it dies the whole way through and creates a hard spot in that layer which CANNOT transfer anything past that point. If you do the bottom 2 nodes the creates a NATURAL X pattern internally, and only in that outer 10% of the stock around there the branch was severed and slows down the transferance of sugars to the roots. Its the same thing as what your talking about doing only you can do it naturally and without cutting off sugar transfer completely. This way is SAFER.

Lollipopping is good if you have alot of time to grow your plant. If you trying to run a 12-15 week cycle from seed or 9 weeek from clone you'll stress the hell out of it and it'll hermie.
 
Ole Budheavy

Ole Budheavy

Well-Known Member
BeatenByTheWorld said:
when cutting the bottom chutes off, the remaining part of that chute dies. if u ever spit the stem of a death plant you'll see that stem does THROUGH the layer your speaking of cutting.

Once that stem dies, it dies the whole way through and creates a hard spot in that layer which CANNOT transfer anything past that point. If you do the bottom 2 nodes the creates a NATURAL X pattern internally, and only in that outer 10% of the stock around there the branch was severed and slows down the transferance of sugars to the roots. Its the same thing as what your talking about doing only you can do it naturally and without cutting off sugar transfer completely. This way is SAFER.

Lollipopping is good if you have alot of time to grow your plant. If you trying to run a 12-15 week cycle from seed or 9 weeek from clone you'll stress the hell out of it and it'll hermie.
Click to expand...
:?:Once that stem dies, it dies the whole way through and creates a hard spot in that layer which CANNOT transfer anything past that point. :?:

Sorry bro, but what are you talking about?:wall:

So lets say we remove a good portion of the lower side stems. I agree that pruning off a stem will cause the little nub left over to harden and die. What does it matter if it dies? It does not affect the plant adversely. :???: The main stem still functions without any reduction in the phloem.

If you go deeper than the branch or stem collar, then you have wounded the plant by ripping or cutting into the main trunk or stem. :o That is very bad. When you prune a side branch off of a regular tree (not a palm) correctly, the main trunk is NOT affected.

If you veg your plants a little longer and aren't doing a SOG, then you can lollipop the plants and then switch to bloom. :weed:
 
stoneruk

stoneruk

Well-Known Member
So are you guessing this will work without having tried it yourself before, or has the exact same technique been documented elsewhere?

TBH without any sort of proof it's a loads of shit, and this is coming from the same person who used a rolled eye smiley at the thought of molasses, which many others have actually used and know it works.
 
Ole Budheavy

Ole Budheavy

Well-Known Member
stoneruk said:
So are you guessing this will work without having tried it yourself before, or has the exact same technique been documented elsewhere?

TBH without any sort of proof it's a loads of shit, and this is coming from the same person who used a rolled eye smiley at the thought of molasses, which many others have actually used and know it works.
Click to expand...
This is a proven horticultural technique I heard about in a college fruit science class buddy. What is your horticultural background hotshot?:lol:

BTW, have you used molasses without any detrimental effects? I heard from one of the more senior growers on here that molasses can have unintended consequences. Plus, molasses is a gooey material that seems like a bitch to deal with. I'd rather use other organic sources than molasses. Some people adore guano and worm castings, hey to each his own. :leaf:
 
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