leaf and plant diagnoses help

recently started flower 3days in running in a hydro ebb n flow bycket system. Flooding and draining 3 times a day at 5 min floods running 3 600 enclosed lights which are cooled co2 enriched sealed grow. running 83 with 55 hum. co2 at 1500ppm res temp 66-68. noticed my dehumidifier runs alot to keep hum down maybe its drying out buckets and plants not getting enough food. didnt notice this problem till flower maybe its the lower lights that dont dry the air. gonna upgrad dehum to a bigger unit. thought problem might be lockout because of switch over. checked for root rot roots look healthy and white no mush. only on a few plants showing these signs. only on top leaves discoloration is brown lights turned pics that color. moved lights up to around 12 in had them around 8 in. As stated lights are enclosed and cooled can hold hand under lights longer then 30 seconds at plant level. Any help would be appreciated i tired to diagnose cant figure it out thought it was n but im in flower so doesnt seem likely may be p. Like i said any help would be appreciated. Running AN ph perfect mgb at 4ml per liter with voodoo juice and pirahna at 2ml per liter. Did a foliar spray of revive yesterday. spell check didnt work and im tired so excuse typos

any help here thinking of flushing for a day my ppm was like 1300 and ec was 3.2 i diluted they water got it down to 1000 and 2.3 but i fear im going to have to flush. Should i flush for a full 12 cycle or just a few hours?

wat is yer ph ?? plix dont take pix with da hps on cant see da lefz color y0 ph should be 5.8 for hydro and ppm looks to high for 3 day of flowering br0 im soil grower but hope it helps

my ph is 6.2 but im in ph perfect so it regulates so they uptake yeah i diluted the res brought it down to 1100 with ec of 2.3. Might have to dump the nutes and start fresh.i think im locked out wondering if i should do a 12hr flush with r/o water or just a few hours of flushing.

Sounds like a nute lock. Your ppms are too high for early stage of flower. Drop your ppms, too much salt build up will lock out nutes. I start out at about 200-250 ppm at a .5 conversion. Change out your nutes, and drop the ppms before anything else.

OgSince03 said:

Sounds like a nute lock. Your ppms are too high for early stage of flower. Drop your ppms, too much salt build up will lock out nutes. I start out at about 200-250 ppm at a .5 conversion. Change out your nutes, and drop the ppms before anything else.

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Should i flush for a full day following AN calculator for ph perfect think i might drop from 4ml per liter to 3ml their calculator says i should be at 900 and 1.3 ec but idk seemed high trying this hydro did awesome in veg

When people say its 83 its usually about 90. Do you have a memory thermometer? Cool things down and get lights higher untill they get used to the 1800w hps.

*BUDS said:

When people say its 83 its usually about 90. Do you have a memory thermometer? Cool things down and get lights higher untill they get used to the 1800w hps.

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I have a sentinel chhc-4 total controller with a probe ana a thermometer temp under canopy is around 80 tep in room is 83 i have 2 dehums running i think thats whats raising temp. Waiting on my woods dehum to come bigger and less heat. My main thing is should i flush all day today with straight r/o or just a few hours? I have a night cycle so they dont start their 12 till 9pm.

Temps above around 78 will start to cause the plants to uptake more water due to the increased heat on leaves and in rhizosphere. Drop the temps and drop the ppm/EC. top off your res every time you go to water as well. Keeps a safe concentration of salts:water. The hotter the temps the more water uptake done, if the nutes are already a little hot they will only worsen with each feeding. Hot nutes plus hot temps are a surefire way to get the results you are man. I'd drain out 1/3 of the res and replace with good water. If you flush with RO, i like to supplement the last bit i flush with with a quarter strength of CaliMag. Don't wanna add a micro nutrient deficiency to the mix as well.

Bayou bud said:

Temps above around 78 will start to cause the plants to uptake more water due to the increased heat on leaves and in rhizosphere. Drop the temps and drop the ppm/EC. top off your res every time you go to water as well. Keeps a safe concentration of salts:water. The hotter the temps the more water uptake done, if the nutes are already a little hot they will only worsen with each feeding. Hot nutes plus hot temps are a surefire way to get the results you are man. I'd drain out 1/3 of the res and replace with good water. If you flush with RO, i like to supplement the last bit i flush with with a quarter strength of CaliMag. Don't wanna add a micro nutrient deficiency to the mix as well.

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with enclosed co2 i thought u have to run above 80 for the co2 to be beneficial at all anything lower is wasteful. idk

I do not believe that you must be at or above 80 to run CO2, but CO2 does help with plant stress when the temps are already a little high. I could be incorrect about that though. Persistent high temps and sad plants can be helped by CO2, but I never knew if the slightly higher temps would be a need. On that account, does that mean you need to stop enriching with CO2 if you want to drop temps a bit towards the end of flowering to cause purpling? Cause I've seen CO2 plants that were purple and the temps that that environment was at never cracked 80. Interesting to find out the correct answer, I never thought of it before. I will say the RH does have an affect on CO2 uptake though.

posted new pics in night cycle sorry for the hps pics

Bayou bud said:

I do not believe that you must be at or above 80 to run CO2, but CO2 does help with plant stress when the temps are already a little high. I could be incorrect about that though. Persistent high temps and sad plants can be helped by CO2, but I never knew if the slightly higher temps would be a need. On that account, does that mean you need to stop enriching with CO2 if you want to drop temps a bit towards the end of flowering to cause purpling? Cause I've seen CO2 plants that were purple and the temps that that environment was at never cracked 80. Interesting to find out the correct answer, I never thought of it before. I will say the RH does have an affect on CO2 uptake though.

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yeah you drop the co2 use in last few weeks of flower to dense up the cones some say. some run all they way through im running totally enclosed and as far as i have learned when you have no air coming in you run at higher temp to utilize the co2....

Interesting. The closest to a true enclosed environment I've been in or seen was closed, but connected to their veg room, and the doors would open automatically venting out the CO2. It was weird, and way more expensive than it needed to be. I'll do some more CO2 research, because it is a part of the grow room I have never utilized.

So ran a flush and looked perked up but looked at root a little brown maybe buckets got too hot so running r/o again today then gonna run a hydrogen peroxide mix tomorrow but was wondering can i put my base nutrients in at 1ml so they can at least get some food after 2 days of straight water? I don't think i can add the additive nutrients cause wont the h2o2 eat up the beneficials? Any help appreciated.....

Inorganic nutes will work just fine with H2O2. Don't throw in any beneficial bacterias becuase they will all die from the peroxide. THe peroxide should slough off some of the brown nasty that your roots might have. Also try to keep the waer you use between like 65-70 degrees when watering.