Leaf damage? Dtw coco

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I guess I need to find out just when the reservoir has I guess not enough solution in it for halos to run as intended. When it gets low it will not pump good enough and throws off the timing needed to properly feed.

Anyone know why?

Was thinking something to do with pressure of the weight of a full reservoir pushing down making a heavy flow. I dont know when, going to have to monitor it each feed to find out but I hear the condensate pump running each time but this time the level was pretty low.

Level was low seeing if I could milk one more feed in and it wouldnt pump. It isnt siphoning I dont think because the levels are correct.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I refill reservoir and then it pumps so good I have to turn the valve from fully open, back to like half way.

This time the pump was barely submerged, like half an inch or an inch which was the lowest Ive gone so hoping its just that.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
This leaf was growing inside the fan cage and so it was being struck by the fan blade but not sure if that has anything to do with why it is white like PM.

I never had PM but is this is? What is it? Only leaf with that white on it. Only other thing can think of is the exaust fan unplugged somehow so RH spiked to 68. Never happened before but will make sure it doesnt.
 

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medidedicated

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I would say the leaf issue went away which I seen myself before, sometimes this happens. It appears on a leaf or two and just goes away. I did feed more per day which may of helped.

But this one is a stretcher, holy cow. 4 weeks flower working on 5. First sugar leafs/buds coming in.
 

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medidedicated

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So its way bushier in there, like riiiight on the line of too much but the overall lighting makes it all lit and air moves through it… So the fan turned off for like 10 mins and it reached 75rh in there but right back down to 40. Im in mid flower almost late flower. Am I alright?

I know obviously be vigilant but wondering if I should sweat it or not. Im thinking it should be fine. I dont think I had chemdog before but this plant is nice.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Note to self, dont plug vacuum inside grow room. Blew the fuse. Not using that much but it flew over my head that its like a space heater.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Going to bump this here. Does this look like beginning of nute burn? 1.1ec 5.8 ph drift to 6.2. 4 times a day fed until decent runoff. Having less runoff lately, am about to dial it in to feed just a bit more per feed. Maybe run it through to flush some salts out. What else should I do?

1.1ec is already low depend who you ask but my tap water ec is .5 so not a lot of room to work with. What would you do? Feed 5 times a day? Was thinking that is all I can do. Almost time to lower ec for late flower/ripe. Like .9 ec. The other plant is developing the same thing. 3 gal coco.
 

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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
The tips are staying that way. As I look online about it, its polerized responses on what the tips mean. I dont think its burning. I dialed in timer to runoff a little longer to make it just right again but was ok before.

But one plant did not do this but the other plant did. The leg area where it is darker and more breezy, the leaves fell right off with minimal tug around areas where it was darker.

This happened to me on a sick plant but these babies are healthy as can be but one of them did that too. The watermelon, right side plant. Why? Any explanation? In the area youd normally defoliate anyway if you had to.

The leaves were perfectly green and healthy looking but they just fall right off. Up to a certain height then they are normal.
 

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medidedicated

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Whats goin on here? 1.1-1.3ec maxibloom for whole cycle since beginning. ph 5.7-6.3. Fed once a day. 67-70F 35rh. In same lung room as flower tent. Plant is a month old. Tropical punch.

Trying to make a one fits all system. half gal flora flex pot thats not running smoothly so installing new hard cap today and testing it out.

Why the yellowing and calmg looking deficiency? Why the clawing? Fecida 65w led for 2x2’ footprint and its like 12” away 100% on.
 

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ec121

Well-Known Member
Whats goin on here? 1.1-1.3ec maxibloom for whole cycle since beginning. ph 5.7-6.3. Fed once a day. 67-70F 35rh. In same lung room as flower tent. Plant is a month old. Tropical punch.

Trying to make a one fits all system. half gal flora flex pot thats not running smoothly so installing new hard cap today and testing it out.

Why the yellowing and calmg looking deficiency? Why the clawing? Fecida 65w led for 2x2’ footprint and its like 12” away 100% on.
That's not a Mg deficiency because the interveinal chlorosis is at the top of the plant. The PAR map for your light at 100% at 12" (did you measure it as 12" or did you eyeball it?) is giving 960 PPFD in the center, and almost 700 average PPFD in the 1'x1' center. PPFD should be like 280-550 in veg.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
That's not a Mg deficiency because the interveinal chlorosis is at the top of the plant. The PAR map for your light at 100% at 12" (did you measure it as 12" or did you eyeball it?) is giving 960 PPFD in the center, and almost 700 average PPFD in the 1'x1' center. PPFD should be like 280-550 in veg.
You might be right but its a low ppfd light and pretty efficient for 65w I figured good for veg tent.
 

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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I looked at the map after taking the pic and see its pretty loaded with ppfd like many lights do because I guess its a flex thing.

I personally thought these were weaker when I bought them but it was pretty close for a week or two until I raised it a few days ago. And yes eye balling distance.

These are crazy high ppfd for 65w its epistar led chips.
 

ec121

Well-Known Member
You should just make your life easier and if you have a recent iPad or iPhone, buy the Photone app. It's not going to give you the accuracy of a $600 Apogee, but it's good enough for us home growers.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I have iphone and app I know of and used I suppose I could use it I just end up winging it.

I prefer lights with uniform map. 700-900ppfd. I never knew what I did for veg, just slowly up the intensity. But if its all because of this light, explains why clones in corner look fine.
 

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medidedicated

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Yea Im too new to know whats good, just what it seems and seems like a lot of lights are hot centered and just scortches the center of the plants but barely ok enough to not throw white hairs or fox tail.

Lately been seeing plants ripe from top down and so ripe tops just get battered with light. I use mars hydro ts1000 for flower tent. Like 1400 ppfd in center. Then much weaker edges.

Plants seemed to of loved it much more than fecida lighting. They grew with this glow to them. Happy plants with mars hydro. They just eat it up.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Holy cow youre right, I posted before checking myself, its uniform as heck on the fecida map at 18”.

But yea the mars hydro light I got the center looking on verge of tacoeing and burnt ridges but could be feed related but I have no more tall space.

I winged the grow and by miracle or not really, I got very lucky but should have more tall space to do that with the mars hydro though just checked for the par map and only goes by dimming not raising.

Its not quite looking like it works the same with the mars hydro. Though didnt know there were other ways to run lights, just the lowest height ppfd map.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
The plants look better already 3 days later. It just showed a pistol too and has branches large enough to clone so this tropical punch by g13 labs I ought to toss into flower in flower tent so it can be sampled and done so I can decide what to do next.

Throw 4 clones of watermelon and 4 of TP or all watermelon if its still the best strain I got on hold. I topped the TP just now. I just dimmed light to 50% and now I raised it some more today.
 

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