Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
The buildup can cause acidity from decomp and mixing chems. It can also become basic. This would cause lockout.
Leaf problems! Help
- Thread starter Stemo
- Start date
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
. What you're describing is the precipitation of nute lockout.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Too low pH will cause nute lock-out, as well as overnuting, buildup which perpetuate pH drift, etc.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
You're just restating what I am. I concur.
phil k
Well-Known Member
right but the point is everyones saying its cal mag deficiency without informing him that it could be a secondary issue causing that .. maybe he reads it and grabs a cal mag bottle and rams it down the plants throat which is pointless.. ya know what i mean
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Acid buildup due to nute buildup decomposition = cause of PH being low (acidic, opposite of basic.)
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I did say that. Scroll up. I said it's eithe CalMag or too low pH and to rule out which it is, because adding more calmag is a waste at best and an execution at worst.
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
hes only fed for 3 wks tho (3 times). uses filtered water (zero cal/mag) now just using nutes that have little cal/mag in it... do the math
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Right, but if secondarily the other feedings were more overzealous than he cares to admit, it could just as easily be nute lockout which would especially exacerbate having an actual calmag def.hes only fed for 3 wks tho (3 times). uses filtered water (zero cal/mag) now just using nutes that have little cal/mag in it... do the math
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I think if we're not sure, flush, repot, quarter nutes to include calmag until you notice changes indicating decline or recovery is the safest way.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
i'm noticing some possible phosphorus deficiencies, slightly, and nitrogen for sure, calcium, potassium, and mag as well, so it probably is nute lockout.
Thanks to all for some good points. If I explain properly just my grow regime then I would like some advice or solutions please. Grow space is 500 by 1000! Reflective insulation, 10 23w warm cfls, and 5 26 w cool white cfls! Fan and heater just outside grow room. The bean in question was three years old, it is auto flower northern light!! Planted in seedling potting soil with John innis and 35% perlite. It has been on 24/7 light. Fed once a day with filtered water until first week of flower and then went to sensi Bloom a and B, 4 ml of each in 1 Ltr of water. Ph 6.0-6.5! Feed once a day between 250 and 400 ml water feed. I think I've touched all points, thanks for the help.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Could be some light and heat stress as well.
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
Most likely his plants would burn on the new growth tips before it locked up. Nute lock usually starts yellowing at the top where all the energy is supposed to go.
Never flush a plant in soil. and if by flush you mean give it extra water, then hell to the no. If you mean just water it normally for a week or 2 then . I still think since only a few leaves are showing def that its cal/mag
Never flush a plant in soil. and if by flush you mean give it extra water, then hell to the no. If you mean just water it normally for a week or 2 then . I still think since only a few leaves are showing def that its cal/mag
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Stop feeding every day, try every other watering or every week orvtwo. Is that the water going in or the soil pH? Because check what it is coming out and in soil, too.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
He should sprinkle a pinch of sodium bicarb/baking soda on the top of the soil to see if it fizzes. If it does, he's too acidic. What you're saying is valid, I'm just saying I want us to be sure before something we're not considering kills his plant.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
OP, are you letting your roots dry out 2-3 days in between? Because you're going to kill your plant if you don't let the roots chill and dry in between waterings.
phil k
Well-Known Member
well the top area isn't alway the most acidic generally in the lower half of the pot is where the soil becomes more acidic because thats where the moisture generally stays creating the build up.. i mean maybe the top will react though but the real buildups are occurring lower.