Leafs tacoing aka canoing

Delps8 said:

Good that you're feeding your plants well but, when they taco, that's a sign that they're getting a bit too much.

What to do depends on how you got to where you are.

At what hang height and dimmer setting did your plants hit the light saturation point (that's the light level above which they will taco/canoe)?

Do you just want to "grow some weed" or do you want to maximize yield?

What size is your grow area and how many plants are in the grow area/are they filling the grow area?

Some pictures would help, as well.

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itsaliveterps said:

I just want to grow some weed clearly I've stunted the little autos but still ... Must keep going

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compassionateExotic said:

Since autos run ur lights if u haven’t at 18-24hrs on but lower ppfd/dimmer % than normal photo would want for flowers aka same dli but what autos were evolved to want aka long lighting cycle on but lower strengths of intensity , same with nutes they need less than normal photo strain would want.

My 2 cents

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itsaliveterps said:

Are you saying lower dosage of nutes?
Also I noticed it's mainly the one plant haze express dat does the tacoing aka canoing

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compassionateExotic said:

Since autos run ur lights if u haven’t at 18-24hrs on but lower ppfd/dimmer % than normal photo would want for flowers aka same dli but what autos were evolved to want aka long lighting cycle on but lower strengths of intensity , same with nutes they need less than normal photo strain would want.

My 2 cents

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compassionateExotic said:

I was just giving u heads up don’t apply like many companies suggestion dosages cause it’s based for photo plants and I know auto’s take 30-505 less generally . the lighting is the auto flower was evolved in Russian mountains and like Alaska they have 18-20hr daylight and this is why autos are like that, short cycle and no light trigger cause those plants in survival had to do all and don’t need the extra feed or light to live. anyone I know who transplanted multple times, ran them under 12/12 and treated them like a regular photo ethier had bad results, low yeilds and most switched to non autos cause of such. If u need a plant quickly into flower u can np flip a regular seed to 12/12 from start or a few weeks and it will be same thing as auto but all the pro’s of a photo cannabis . not trying to rag u down I just know a few dudes who bought big packs to do commerical level outdoors and thinking it was gem to make profit and whatcha know their stuff was un sellable and weak . I’ve tried a few packs and for being a non clonable thing and doesn’t help my harvest times I ask why?


the Tocoing is from too much heat from led and/or light intensity , could even be pheno profile cause I’ve def seen plants no matter what do it 2

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Delps8 said:

Good that you're feeding your plants well but, when they taco, that's a sign that they're getting a bit too much.

What to do depends on how you got to where you are.

At what hang height and dimmer setting did your plants hit the light saturation point (that's the light level above which they will taco/canoe)?

Do you just want to "grow some weed" or do you want to maximize yield?

What size is your grow area and how many plants are in the grow area/are they filling the grow area?

Some pictures would help, as well.

Click to expand...

itsaliveterps said:

Okay should I lower light intensity from 100% to 75%

Click to expand...

Photone - Grow Light Meter

The grow light meter app to measure PAR / PPFD, DLI, lux / fc, or Kelvin with your iOS or Android phone. Including PPFD meter and DLI conversion for plants.

growlightmeter.com

compassionateExotic said:

Model of led? How far away is ur led ? If u got a iPhone it’s easy to test ur general intensity and know if it’s very high in ppfd, I suggest for autos a veg stage/mom ppfd aka 450-700 ppfd aka 40-50% less than flower stage intensity for photo, anything above 950 needs co2 none the less and many pheno’s/strains no matter what def have limits so key is also knowing such and why waste light /power of plant is not liking it. If running multple plants and u noitce such and good sign of it mid flower if the plant u see the top buds are if not smaller than mid range , if u see such move that plant to less light intensity spot like side part of sea of green . Done that many times when a pheno is new and it saved it’s worth cause the plant would degraded and def been boof.after u know what plants like or dislike such u can def have the higher input ears in highest intensity parts or grow the lower intakers under dif light or vice versa and dim em accordly.


since ppfd meters are costly, I suggest run ur led at highest suggested point and dim to 50-75% but ethier way I suggest if u got a iPhone and some other branded work is using ur phone as a light meter. Even if it’s for general ruling of which parts of ur sea of green are obvious way stronger area, closer to plants = stronger in core but further away gonnea be more stable light level . def matters on led model cause some are like strips and are very balanced where some beam the light and u def gotta be careful.

Here’s the free app, I wouldn’t even do the non free version and I use it as a general test, that and using a measure to know it’s obvious in right distances cause many times till I got more ocd and did it when flip-growing I was off and those little things def can make or break ya or stress plants

Photone - Grow Light Meter

The grow light meter app to measure PAR / PPFD, DLI, lux / fc, or Kelvin with your iOS or Android phone. Including PPFD meter and DLI conversion for plants.

growlightmeter.com

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