LED Companies w/ LINKS

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Braman

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
Yes and it would still fit the driver. CXB 3590 it's under 36 volts at 1.4 so you will be good.
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I will start at 0.7a and experiment :)
Simpliest way to check amperage would be just inputing and ampmeter, then dimm up to my needs?

I wonder of one thing. I just ordered one COB. And seller told me its is a CD bin. How could I know if he is not lying? Only by measuring light strenght?
 
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TheHero

Member
Is there any possibility to see light parameters on CREE lower than 1400ma? That simulator won`t show lower than that..
 
C

Chiefdog

Active Member
Looking for a good COB or standard LED light that's already built, I don't have the time to build one. Something equivalent to 1000w hps and not cost a fortune
 
Enigma

Enigma

Well-Known Member
The Vero29s finally came in!!!

They are the SE (special edition I like to call the solderless edition), they are both the C chips (highest performing Vero29) with one in 3000K and one in 4000K.

Together they should be capable of producing a half lb. in hydroponics, based in the data sheets, driving them at 1050 mA.

The heat sinks are the beefiest I could find, 150 mm pin-style. I'm sure they could handle 95W @ 1400 mA with even air movement.

Everything came from TastyLED.

$200 for everything and shipping, if these perform like I think they will Tasty has a completely polished T-22 COB panel, actively cooled and dimmable. That fixture should be good for a lb.

:leaf:
 

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Enigma

Enigma

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
can you link the pounds per chip datasheet ;)
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Just an estimation based on so many people getting 2 g/W of COB.

140W x 2 = 280

280 / 28 = 10

Eight ounces makes it a conservative estimation, SoG should make it a reality.

Some places care about stems, others are smart and care about dried weight.

My plan is high efficiency, from all angles.
 
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TheHero

Member
1) Could someone explain me this about CXB COBs.
Why 35G is more expensive than 35H, what are those 2 step, 5 step?
Just, shortly. Whats the best? 2 step or 3 step?
35gvs35h.jpg

2) Also, I have found a "DB" versions and there is no data on datsheet about them, but that 'DB"can be found on CREE Product Characterization Tool. Is that something new?

3) The bigger the heatsink, the better it is right?
 
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DWCgrow2017

DWCgrow2017

Active Member
Newbie for LED GROW LIGHT:( kinda of curious whether u guys know what drivers those LED company use in their panels or not? or what drivers u guys recommend? I only know Meanwell power supply...lol lol lol

BlackdogLED
Advanced LED Lights
High Tech Garden Supply - HTG
Lighthouse Hydro - Blackstar
Hydro Grow LED - Penetrator
Grow LED Hydro - Spectra
Kessil - Kessil H150/H350
Magnum LED - Magnum LED
Plant Photonics - Hand Made LED Lights
Pro-Grow Series LED - Pro-Grow LED
Grow Stealth LED - Grow Stealth Quantum LED
 
Enigma

Enigma

Well-Known Member
Enigma said:
Just an estimation based on so many people getting 2 g/W of COB.
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CobKits said:
i wouldnt say thats typical. great target to strive for tho.
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2 g/W in a VSoG, D-VSoG or a Q-VSoG seems plausible, this is my end-game.

For now, I'm running top-down in a SoG. My conservative estimation is 1.6 g/W as I've seen HID accomplish that task.

Being a newcomer to LED, I'm having to compare the new technology to my experience with HID. Given the claims of LED being so much better, with the Math to back it up, I decided to find the best deal with room to grow and flexibility (modulation).

TastyLED had everything I needed to get started, the math is there, it just needs proper implementation.

With the current light engines TastyLED has provided, I'm able to produce ~1400 PPF in my space with a very strong spectrum as well as passive air cooling (reliability).

With the headroom the beafy light engines and the efficiency of the Vero29C, I am able to push them up to 95W, passively, providing over 30,000 lm. I won't do that now because that would kill everything.


Thank you for sharing your thoughts!

:leaf:
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Enigma said:
2 g/W in a VSoG, D-VSoG or a Q-VSoG seems plausible, this is my end-game.

For now, I'm running top-down in a SoG. My conservative estimation is 1.6 g/W as I've seen HID accomplish that task.

Being a newcomer to LED, I'm having to compare the new technology to my experience with HID. Given the claims of LED being so much better, with the Math to back it up, I decided to find the best deal with room to grow and flexibility (modulation).

TastyLED had everything I needed to get started, the math is there, it just needs proper implementation.

With the current light engines TastyLED has provided, I'm able to produce ~1400 PPF in my space with a very strong spectrum as well as passive air cooling (reliability).

With the headroom the beafy light engines and the efficiency of the Vero29C, I am able to push them up to 95W, passively, providing over 30,000 lm. I won't do that now because that would kill everything.


Thank you for sharing your thoughts!

:leaf:
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How many plants per square foot are you planning and what method.
 
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NewBKind

Well-Known Member
I'm starting to realize that if you want a good COB rig, don't buy premade "engines". Buy the chips from the manufacturer and heatsink from another source and assemble them yourself. This is extremely simple and you don't have to deal with people making excuses why they take weeks to assemble light engines that honestly take an average of less than 5 min utes each build. Just my 2 cents. I thought I saved time by buying a rig mostly prebuilt, in reality i paid more than if I had just bought the parts myself (this is obvious as markup is the name of the game) and i would have had all parts in much sooner. As it is now, I'm sitting on my beans like "WHERE'S MY SHIT "
 
Enigma

Enigma

Well-Known Member
NewBKind said:
I'm starting to realize that if you want a good COB rig, don't buy premade "engines". Buy the chips from the manufacturer and heatsink from another source and assemble them yourself. This is extremely simple and you don't have to deal with people making excuses why they take weeks to assemble light engines that honestly take an average of less than 5 min utes each build. Just my 2 cents. I thought I saved time by buying a rig mostly prebuilt, in reality i paid more than if I had just bought the parts myself (this is obvious as markup is the name of the game) and i would have had all parts in much sooner. As it is now, I'm sitting on my beans like "WHERE'S MY SHIT "
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I had a special order through TastyLED for diodes Kevin didn't have in stock. I want to say it took a little more than a week to arrive.

:leaf:
 
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NewBKind

Well-Known Member
I was told on Friday when I purchased by the person themselves that they'd have them assembled and sent out by sunday-monday. So I purchased Friday and on Sunday night I inquired on the status of my order. I was told in so many words "I told you it takes up to 2 weeks, and there's 2 orders ahead of you, first in first out". So I was "bait and switched". I was then told that midweek was a reasonable expectation for the shipping of my order. So today again I inquired, and this is what I was told "I know you are anxious but i just finished the other 2 orders, be patient"

Yeah if I bought the parts directly I would not have been lied to, and at the very least I'd be tracking them if i didnt have them already, for less cost.
 
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