LED DIY (planning, suggestions are welcome)

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bbspills

Well-Known Member
Yeah, constant current drivers won't help you if an LED blows while wired in series, plus you wouldn't want to wire a constant current driver in parallel.
 
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lax123

Well-Known Member
You might want to think a little deeper before you post
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Ah lol, well for me "fail" is "-zaaap your Money is gone, all leds r destroyed" (i was thinking: if not using a CC-Driver,without the proper "controls" a normal voltage source could destroy one led by another as a chain reaction, so all would actually "fail" as in beeing destroyed)...he was talking about fail in as in "they go dark",so just one faulty...if one is defective, i would not Need much time to locate it (with a DMM takes about 1sec to check one led) and then replace it.
with the Vero chips no solder is needed, just screws and clip in power connector.
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if you get the led on a heatsink, you would just have to desolder the wires. but i was not asking about effort to put into to built it or something like that. But what happens if there is a partial failure of the cob vs single leds -> yea it goes "dark" but you can replace it with no big "financial loss". I was talking about DIY, not some hard enclosed end product with 10000 small screews and glue and stuff like that. I mean i dont know, but does a small failure "get bridged" somehow in cobs (so maybe just a Little dark spot) or is it completly defective then?
 
PICOGRAV

PICOGRAV

Well-Known Member
lax123 said:
Ah lol, well for me "fail" is "-zaaap your Money is gone, all leds r destroyed" (i was thinking: if not using a CC-Driver,without the proper "controls" a normal voltage source could destroy one led by another as a chain reaction, so all would actually "fail" as in beeing destroyed)...he was talking about fail in as in "they go dark",so just one faulty...if one is defective, i would not Need much time to locate it (with a DMM takes about 1sec to check one led) and then replace it. if you get the led on a heatsink, you would just have to desolder the wires. but i was not asking about effort to put into to built it or something like that. But what happens if there is a partial failure of the cob vs single leds -> yea it goes "dark" but you can replace it with no big "financial loss". I was talking about DIY, not some hard enclosed end product with 10000 small screews and glue and stuff like that. I mean i dont know, but does a small failure "get bridged" somehow in cobs (so maybe just a Little dark spot) or is it completly defective then?
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5 year warranty, "Industry’s Best Warranty Protection" if that's not the final nail, then what?
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
I'd like to see a par comparison in a 3 x 3 area at different heights.


20 xml l2 run at 6.5w for 130w (runs hot at that level ,couldn't imagine how hot they would be at 3a) versus 1 cob at 130w (or two smaller ones to make spread a more even compare).


that would tell a lot


if I had two vero 29, drivers, and a par meter I could do a 240w version of that test (could just refit my veg light). Maybe in a few months
 
PICOGRAV

PICOGRAV

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
I'd like to see a par comparison in a 3 x 3 area at different heights.


20 xml l2 run at 6.5w for 130w (runs hot at that level ,couldn't imagine how hot they would be at 3a) versus 1 cob at 130w (or two smaller ones to make spread a more even compare).


that would tell a lot


if I had two vero 29, drivers, and a par meter I could do a 240w version of that test (could just refit my veg light). Maybe in a few months
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I have two Vero 29's, where do I get a Par meter from? Local stores have that sort of thing?
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
That would be a easy way to compare it. Both our lights are built and ready to be measured. My flower light has switches so I can shutoff everything but the 240w of xmls. Can't quite swing the price of the meter right now but maybe in a little bit..

reefled.com has a rental for the meter with a security deposit. Might be a good option..$20 a week
 
PICOGRAV

PICOGRAV

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
That would be a easy way to compare it. Both our lights are built and ready to be measured. My flower light has switches so I can shutoff everything but the 240w of xmls. Can't quite swing the price of the meter right now but maybe in a little bit..
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I wanted to get one of these before and test the set up, I have a 2700K and a 5000K, I wonder how that would read.
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Mine are 5000k and 3200k. Really similar setup just different approach.

Never used a par meter before. If it works on the Area 51 mostly white panel should work fine on these setups
 
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lax123

Well-Known Member
ok for your budged of 100-125€ i came up with the following low Price Suggestion (includes shipping, does not include "Import" taxes, from the ebay shop/seller "sure-display") if you wait like 2 more weeks then i can tell you if These cobs and Drivers actually work- there r also other possibilites regarding the Drivers (driving parallel etc.), but this is a simple and still cheap solution:
price per piece
count
price per type
real W
Sum W
red 630 30W
6,18
2
12,36
23
46
WW 30W
3,14
5
15,7
37
185
CW 30W
3,14
3
9,42
37
111
drivers 30W
5,89
10
58,9
total price
96,38€
real Watts:
342W
 
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lax123

Well-Known Member
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