PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
That might be a question for a new thread.
LED for micro cab...
- Thread starter zachyweezer88
- Start date
I found the 80-cent Jerry @ Kingbrite reflector. And, I found a datasheet with dimensions I think apply to that. The hole is 36.67mm (1.44").
That might work well! The BrightStik's base tapers from 1.39" at the bottom to 1.46" at the top. It might make a sufficient friction-fit to hold it. Or, a hose-clamp could be used to secure it. (The base gets hot. Tape wouldn't work.).
Edit: Or, just permanently epoxy it to the base. It only costs 80 cents. That's a cheap reflector upgrade.
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FYI: I can't find any reflectors on the Kingbrite (alibaba) page. Maybe they're not available any longer. (Someone said there's a $45 shipping charge.).
I found these on Mouser:
They're $11 each. Paying more for a reflector than the bulb costs is a bitter pill to swallow.
I might order one each of those to play with. I believe the wide-angle would be the best for these small-space, low-watt lights. But, the medium angle might make sense for top lights.
It seems like a reflector wouldn't add much benefit because the light is already directional to some extent (with the diffusion cap removed).
I just did a test[1] using my clamp-on (5-1/2") reflector from Home Depot.
GE 10w (60w equiv) BrightStik (warm)
No reflector: 860 lux
Reflector: 1200 lux
Generic 15w (60w equiv) CFL (warm)Reflector: 1200 lux
No reflector: 180 lux
Reflector: 725 lux
Reflector: 725 lux
That shows how a reflector is a big win for an omnidirectional. Using a reflector on a CFL makes it close to a reflector-less BrightStik (33% less power).
I think this is a large reason why CFLs have such a bad reputation (people hang them in mid air). As you're finding, the BrightStick makes it easier to get "reflector" results without a reflector (and using 33% less power)
[1] I measured 20" directly beneath the reflector's rim. I didn't measure a grid because my phones's light sensor doesn't work well doing that. It would be more accurate to measure a grid and see how the coverage's intensity changes.
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PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
I found these for 2$ on eBay
They come in five sizes. I have a few of each. I love them. I got mine on Amazon (link 2/3 down this article). If you break the male end, there is an M8x1.00 male stud (about 3/8" long). Instead of mounting sockets (then screwing the extension into the socket), the extension could be mounted directly to that surface.
I should make one just to show it visually. But, it would look really clean.
Bad news. Jerry @ Kingbrite only sells the reflectors with COB and holder. (I know, that would be better than screwing around with household lightbulbs. Instead of bad news, that's an opportunity to do something better.).
I mentioned three reflectors a couple posts above. Jerry sells this extra-wide beam:
$10 on mouser. I'm going to get one just to see how (if) it works with the BrightStik. Seems expensive. But, you have to spend $7 on a clamp-on reflector at Home Depot. This one's a little more compact. (3-1/4" diameter, 1-1/4" tall.).
zachyweezer88
Active Member
Finally got a pic for you guys...
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zachyweezer88
Active Member
I ended up mounting an old vanity light fixture and power strip to the top of my cab. I used five 10w GE BrightStiks and two of the 16 watters. My plants aren't the nicest looking at the moment, but hopefully they'll look better once the soil dries out a little.
I hope those lights work. I commend you for being the guinea pig. I bet that's an improvement over what you had.
But.... if you could fashion reflectors around each bulb, you could take two bulbs out.
I'm considering using a small, round food-storage container (maybe 4" diameter, 2" deep) as a "mold" to wrap/press aluminum foil into. I think if a stiff cup could be made, it could be pressed onto the base of the bulb (just a friction fit).
I know tin foil is bad used as wall reflectors. But, it seems like a crumpled/wrinkled clump would be ok. (Maybe painting it white would be more reflective.).
The aluminum stove top covers might fit nicely. They sell them for cheap around here, used for keeping crumbs from falling under the burners
zachyweezer88
Active Member
I'm considering doing this myself. I've got to keep my priorities in order, though. Truth be told, I'm still trying to figure out an appropriate distance for my little seedlings from the collection of LEDs I have hanging from the top of my cab. Hahahaha. Paranoia has gotten the best of me in regards to my watering schedule. It's one extreme or the other. With my last set of plants I was watering too much. Lately, it's been too little.
Especially after putting in my new lights, I've noticed my leaves have begun drooping and developing little blotchy spots that aren't really evident until looking at the bottoms of the leaves. I increased my distance to about fifteen or so inches. Also, I've started watering every two days now as opposed to three. On days that I don't water, I'll make sure the surface is still moist by occasionally misting with a spray bottle.
Thank you for the help and kind words of encouragement. I'm the guinea pig here and proudly so, but...to all those considering this setup and waiting for the result of my grow, be forewarned that I am a complete and total newb.
It looks good to me in the photo above. But, the plants look overwatered. The soil should be pretty dry before watering. The container should feel light to lift. It looks like enough perlite, so I'd think it should dry in 3-4 days at this stay. Dig your little finger in 1/2 to 1". If the cup feel light and you don't feel moisture with your finger, it's time to completely drench. Leave it alone again. (It's not a houseplant where you should adding a little over and over. It likes wet/dry cycles).
There is a lux meter for android. You can calibrate it. I'll check one of mine using the same meter and tell you what I think a safe level is. I would err on the side of too blue and too little light. With too much warm it could stretch, but it's not really a lack of light. It's the wrong spectrum. If you start all blue, if it stretches you know it's too little light (of correct spectrum). Start low and you'll know without causing much problem. After 2-3 cool bulbs, add a warm as the plants expand (for more complete spectrum).
It's a zen thing. When you can snatch the pebble....
Stop. You're gonna be a hero. People talk about "Lucas formula" and "Einstein's relativity." People will be referring to Zachy lights. Trust me. I see it. I'm never wrong.
zachyweezer88
Active Member
Thank you. Not using anything too fancy, just some MG Seed Starting potting mix and Kellogg's Patio. I used equal parts of each and cut things with plenty of perlite. I couldn't bring myself to buy the FF boutique stuff, you know?
zachyweezer88
Active Member
I needed a good self-esteem boost, my man. Thank you.
Hahahahahaha. Weezer style lighting. That's where it's at. Anyway, yes, they appear to have been over-watered. But, when I apply the knuckle test, I always pull out a clean finger
. I've also developed a feel for the Solo cups, and after day two, things feel considerably lighter. Hell, I even use one of those crappy moisture meters and regularly get a reading of zero on the second day(dry). All of this combined has led me to believe that I've possibly been under-watering. They don't seem too sad, though. In fact, I can tell they've been growing. Your wet/dry cycle information gave me a new approach this time around, and although I've yet to really develop a feel for when to water, I do feel that I've gotten marginally better.
zachyweezer88
Active Member
Oh, and yes, I'd really appreciate some readings on my lights.I needed a good self-esteem boost, my man. Thank you.
Anyway, yes, they appear to have been over-watered. But, when I apply the knuckle test, I always pull out a clean finger
They don't seem too sad, though. In fact, I can tell they've been growing. Your wet/dry cycle information gave me a new approach this time around, and although I've yet to really develop a feel for when to water, I do feel that I've gotten marginally better.
My plan is to read noonday sun outside. Give you that number. You can calibrate the same app (linked above) to get the same lux for noonday sun.Oh, and yes, I'd really appreciate some readings on my lights.
But, I think 3000-4000 lux would be safe. I don't think your sensor would be so far off that you couldn't be in that range.
I would try to err on the side of too dry. Just because it's common for new growers to water too frequently. It can be confusing to know when to water when a plant hasn't filled the container. The top can get dry while the core/bottom is wet. I use a spray bottle and will re-moisten the top 1" if the container feels (weight) like it's still wet below. That's tricky because I don't want to moisten it so much that it flows to lower levels and adds to how long it takes for that part of the soil to dry.
You have a healthy amount of perlite, so it doesn't seem like you'd have much trouble. It should dry pretty quickly. I assume you have holes in the bottoms of the cups.
The heat of the CFLs might have stressed the leaves. Closeups of the spots would help. (How old are they?). I'm saying 7-10 days from breaking ground?
zachyweezer88
Active Member
Truth be told, I'm probably exaggerating a little about the spots. These are my babies, so I tend to freak out over the smallest things. I did manage to take a a few pics. They're still droopy. Today was day two with no water. I gently made a few holes in the soil with my moisture meter for greater oxygen access.
Out of all three, this one appears healthiest:
I had high hopes for this one, but am troubled by how severe the "droopage" has become:
It still seems to be growing pretty well...
And now for the odd one. @az2000 This is the one I was concerned about the other day. Its second set of leaves never fully formed. They're mangled and very light in color.
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