LED Without LEDs -My First T5 Grow

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
yes its that easy, just like a regular compost teas just fill a 2L 3/4 of the way to the top with peat moss add water sugar and microbes give its 2 weeks by that time all that should be left is the stuff that isnt plant matter (perlite rocks dirt whatever) you filter off. the alcohol produced will have evaporated during filtering and sterilization, and h2o2 will break down after a few days once you microwave or pressure cook to sterilize for storage. store in a GLASS jar as this stuff will be powerful.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
another way is Leonardo ore powder. its a rock mined from ancient seabeds made of 85% humic material, just add to water and mix.(i use peat moss method as more fulvic acid is derived i use this for hormone treatments)
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Or worm castings or forest humus makes humic to when aerated. It takes a couple days. Id rather buy a bottle of the earth juice humic. $13 its 22% humic. More than all other brands. Its very concentrate. So its ready in the time my teas are done.
 

Lucius Vorenus

Well-Known Member
Just added Humic acid to my resevoir yesterday. (Black Diamond Leonardite). Horrible Horrible stuff. My nice clean rez looks like someone dumped a gallon of motor oil in it.

So sad. Im done with anything organic. Fuck that nonsense.
 

kpmarine

Well-Known Member
Just added Humic acid to my resevoir yesterday. (Black Diamond Leonardite). Horrible Horrible stuff. My nice clean rez looks like someone dumped a gallon of motor oil in it.

So sad. Im done with anything organic. Fuck that nonsense.
It may look funky, but does it work?
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
humic acids in hydro nice lol.
in hydro you have to be really picky about what you put in the most water soluble formulas are what you are looking for, i personally like powdered nutrients for hydro than mixing and matching liquids.

(humic acids) yes they work for the given purpose of making cell walls permeable for uptake of nutrient hormones ect. but useful in proper application. i dont add any humic acids to my compost teas as plenty is created from the ingredients them selves during the process of forming the tea, the only additive i add that the tea will make for itself is a little bit of enzymes as this can reduce possible toxicity of tap water by catalyzing with the chemicals in it.

the only reason i use humic acids is for foliar feeding hormone treatments, but humic acid is good for those who do hydo or inorganic in soil to make up for the loss of microbes; as normally they would produce this amongst many other thing both good and bad for plant.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
some pics for ya.... this is a compost tea bag the splotches are fungus there is mere on the inside only throw the matieral out inside the bag after 5-6 teas(so i can use less inoculant) gotta love par light makes it GLOW

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harvesting this in a few days...
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the male hermie blowing his/her load, and how to grow a male lol par cfl jk
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48martin

Well-Known Member
Well my FFOF have shown N deficiency around 6 weeks in the past... but I guess I might have jumped the gun and started adding nutes early since I was trying to follow their sched... I'm starting to see it now on my air pot babies, which are gonna be transplanted to bigger containers shortly so they should get some more food from that... what the heck am I doing wrong if there's supposed to be enough to go a whole run?
Usually happens around that time for me also if I don't do any soil flushes prior. (give or take a week) By adding some worm castings to the top soil in week 4-5 has helped me during that period. Its a decent soil for those who do not want to bother with the mess and headache of mixing there own. I also find it a little harsh on seedlings. I wish I had the space to make my own soil and tea's.
-48
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
Usually happens around that time for me also if I don't do any soil flushes prior. (give or take a week) By adding some worm castings to the top soil in week 4-5 has helped me during that period. Its a decent soil for those who do not want to bother with the mess and headache of mixing there own. I also find it a little harsh on seedlings. I wish I had the space to make my own soil and tea's.
-48
It is a little strong for seedlings, agreed. I wish I had something more benign on hand just to get things started. But my seedlings have been able to handle it so far. I do have some peat pellets, I guess I could start in those and then go to FFOF.

Worm castings top dressed at week 4-5 is a great idea, thanks. I will hopefully get my hands on some more supplies soon...
 

kpmarine

Well-Known Member
I just saw someone state with great conviction that generic grow and bloom bulbs have more PAR than aquarium fluorescents. Is reading too hard for some people?
 

kpmarine

Well-Known Member
So, I'm thinking trying out a SoG this next run. Anyone have experience with it in respect to a PAR setup? I have 9x5g buckets in a DIY ebb and flow system with the large baskets; the ones that are pretty much the same inside width as the buckets. So I don't really lose much grow area pushing them together vs. a similarly 3'x3' SoG table. It would be a roughly 3'x3' area, that I can easily expand with DWC buckets into a 3'x6' area if it pans out. I have a 7 foot light rail that I plan on installing soon to cover the grow area more evenly. Just wanted to get some thoughts on how many plants i can fit in the 3'x3' area, how tall you grew them, your lights, etc. I have a 4' 8 bulb bad boy for flower, so you have an idea what I'm working with light-wise.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Are those the AquaFlora's? I was considering them... kinda pricey tho (over$20) might be a good compliment to the FloraSuns, or alternative to the RedSun as it's high in 630 (but still putting out a bit of green...)
Its the midday not aqua flora. It has almost the same amount of green as zoo med flora sun but more 650 -660 red than flora sun. And the 630 spike too. Its $20 every where .

Its got some uv-a, b and some good IR too.
 
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