LEDs?
- Thread starter Kiganoga
- Start date
Garden Knowm
The Love Doctor
WOW... please start a thread and send me a link.. I am very very curous how your grow goes.. and if anybody says anything negative... about it.,. just ignore them... i am eager to see them in action
potlike
Well-Known Member
I am curious too... the claim is they work separately than the standard lumen theory where lumens per square foot is what matters. From what I understand they give you the specific frequency of red and blue light that the plants can use and if you are able to put it closer to your plant then you are getting the most efficiency out of it.
-pot
-pot
Kiganoga
Well-Known Member
Anyways, I have a cabinet that's like 6 and a half foot to 7 foot tall..By 3 feet wide, and 2 feet deep. Im moving it to the corner of the room and getting a new TV stand, so I can use that to grow in. Im cutting two 5"x5" holes in the sides, one at the bottom of a side for the intake..and one at the top of a side for the exhuast. Usually some light would leak because im using those entertainment center a/c fans (70 CFM each), although Im going to get 4" flanges to run on the inside for a little bit of ducting that I can slightly angle. So with about 72" overall..16" taken up from the reservoir, 1 Foot required distance from the lighting..and 9" for the light clearance from the top..I have a maximum of 35" for grow space..Give a few inches more if I dare to get the plants that close to the light. 35" should be enough, though..Right?
Humboldt
Well-Known Member
Yeah see following links, I have been going through them and thought it was very interesting,
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/14441-50w-killer-setup-god-knows.html
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/17793-experimental-led-fluoro-grow.html
I'm going to follow them!
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/14441-50w-killer-setup-god-knows.html
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/17793-experimental-led-fluoro-grow.html
I'm going to follow them!
akramtona
Well-Known Member
That would be about what the guy in the 50 watt grew with. I have 12 grow bars that will give you much more light at a far better price/light ratio. I have somone who is interested in them. He might only want some though. I took a chance and had so many problems with my first grow. Bugs,heat,soil and overwattering. I decided I could not afford to fail again so I changed everything and went to a traditional light. I really went all in with the led's but I would rather give someone a deal on them that is looking to try than to let them just sit and collect dust. Otherwise I will hold on to them and experiment later when the stockpile starts looking up. Good luck with the venture. I hope you make her work.Sorry for the sales pitch.
mastakoosh
Well-Known Member
dude check out tm21thc's grow log called 50 w god knows how many lumens. it is in the indoor growing.
potlike
Well-Known Member
After reading this post I decided to evaluate a few lights and what I have come up with is that standard T5 lights may be the most efficient lighting source for growing right now. Reason being 28w t5 puts out around 104 lumens per watt where as mh puts out around 130 and HPS put out around 150.
This all went against my logic to start out but mathematically it is sound. Growing marijuana is part art and part science.
However the problems with those lights deal with the lumens that are lost in the distance at which they have to be placed from the plants to achieve an optimal even distribution of light. Whereas Fluorescents can be placed touching the plants especially with heat extraction.
Add to that the Inverse Square Law which I believe was Lumens over Distance^squared. Inverse Square law governs how much light you will lose from source to destination. A lumen if I can remember is how much light you will get at one foot away. So 95,0000 lumens of a 600w at one foot away would produce 95,000/1^2 or 95,000 at two feet 95,000/2^2=23750.... uh oh we have a problem.
Consider now 28w 48inch t5 Fluorescents give off 2700 lumens(aka 1 foot away-more if closer). Imagine the scenario of 10 T5's producing 27000 lumens now. at 1-2 inches away. Also the Fluorescents can be evenly distributed over the crop. Add to that way less heat and 280watts only .... much more efficient than a 600watt HPS bulb.
You can get the same 2700 lumens from a standard T8 bulb @ 32watts(less efficient) but then you are just consuming 320watts total per hour which is still less than 600
Really makes you wonder about the actual usable lumens of your light. Also, common theme has been can't get dense buds without HID lighting, however more lumens have been directed with Fluorescents using these figures. Should we re-evaluate contributions to bud density?
-pot
This all went against my logic to start out but mathematically it is sound. Growing marijuana is part art and part science.
However the problems with those lights deal with the lumens that are lost in the distance at which they have to be placed from the plants to achieve an optimal even distribution of light. Whereas Fluorescents can be placed touching the plants especially with heat extraction.
Add to that the Inverse Square Law which I believe was Lumens over Distance^squared. Inverse Square law governs how much light you will lose from source to destination. A lumen if I can remember is how much light you will get at one foot away. So 95,0000 lumens of a 600w at one foot away would produce 95,000/1^2 or 95,000 at two feet 95,000/2^2=23750.... uh oh we have a problem.
Consider now 28w 48inch t5 Fluorescents give off 2700 lumens(aka 1 foot away-more if closer). Imagine the scenario of 10 T5's producing 27000 lumens now. at 1-2 inches away. Also the Fluorescents can be evenly distributed over the crop. Add to that way less heat and 280watts only .... much more efficient than a 600watt HPS bulb.
You can get the same 2700 lumens from a standard T8 bulb @ 32watts(less efficient) but then you are just consuming 320watts total per hour which is still less than 600
Really makes you wonder about the actual usable lumens of your light. Also, common theme has been can't get dense buds without HID lighting, however more lumens have been directed with Fluorescents using these figures. Should we re-evaluate contributions to bud density?
-pot
I remember reading https://www.reefermanseeds.com/forums/showthread.php?p=100448 and hearing cogi talk about the difference between directional and non-directional light. LED's, he claims, being directional lighting, don't hold to the inverse square law, because they emit only in one direction. The intensity of the light diminishes with distance, becuase intensity is a measure of light density within an area. But your lumens (even though they are a bad measuring stick here, and are measured from one meter btw) remain the same, as the light output has not diminished and the plants should actually receive all that light so long as the light is angled down properly on the plants and not illuminating 180 degrees or something.
You're right though, those claims from the LED light people are sketchy, and I would not invest in something like that either.
I'm going to be building a cold cathode grow light, as they're rated at 28,000 cd/m2, which works out to just as many lumens (not taking eye sensitivity into account, this is a pure light measurement); I bought 40 to illuminate a square meter. 36 Red lamps, 4 blue, all 12" long. Same principle as LED's, blue and red, just way more light intensity. I'm going to rig up some mylar and drive it all with a 350W pc power supply. This setup, without CFL's (or white ccfl's), which will probably be used to supplement later, runs 160W. And I'm looking at 1,120,000 cd/m2. This should definitely work as long as I didn't get ripped off on the wavelength and spend money for orange "red" lights that aren't going to do shit. I've never seen anything like this done, and I'd be interested in hearing all of your guys' opinions on it. I'm gonna do a journal on it after it's over.
You're right though, those claims from the LED light people are sketchy, and I would not invest in something like that either.
I'm going to be building a cold cathode grow light, as they're rated at 28,000 cd/m2, which works out to just as many lumens (not taking eye sensitivity into account, this is a pure light measurement); I bought 40 to illuminate a square meter. 36 Red lamps, 4 blue, all 12" long. Same principle as LED's, blue and red, just way more light intensity. I'm going to rig up some mylar and drive it all with a 350W pc power supply. This setup, without CFL's (or white ccfl's), which will probably be used to supplement later, runs 160W. And I'm looking at 1,120,000 cd/m2. This should definitely work as long as I didn't get ripped off on the wavelength and spend money for orange "red" lights that aren't going to do shit. I've never seen anything like this done, and I'd be interested in hearing all of your guys' opinions on it. I'm gonna do a journal on it after it's over.
drewhahaha
Active Member
hello to all,
ive been reading the thread. many, great questions, asked here.
i think i might be able to answer a few of them for you.
first i would like to say, that i have no formal schooling on the matter. everything that ive learned, is from many failed attempts , and successes. i also have only been doing this for about 6 months.
the idea is a sound one!! it works and works well. what you are thinking, is exactly what happens. you get to control the spectrum of light with the l.e.d. and by doing this you give the plant the proper lightwave to produce photosynthesis,(a healthy plant is a happy plant).
this has many advantages to it.
the first is the ability to produces a source of light that the plant wants. allowing the plant to grow at the maximum efficiency.
second, doing this with very little energy consummation. an average l.e.d run on 2.0-3.7 volts, 1/4watts and about 20milamps
third, doing this while producing very little heat. reducing the cost of large fans and cooling units(some fans still needed to produce a natural wind)
and fourth, the lights, from design, are much smaller then mh, or sodium lights. allowing for a smaller area to work with.
i have looked at the manufactured l.e.d systems, they are something that will work. but cost is something to think about here. 300 bones is a lot of money for covering small square footage.
i needed a way to keep the heat down in the area that i have to work with. i have a mother plant that i use the l.e.d lamps on. it is made up of:
2, 350bulb 70% blue(430-470nm),20% red(640-670nm), 5%amber(580-620nm),(many factors goes into buying a l.e.d) positioned on either side of her, about 18" away. i run her on a 18hr cycle. no problems with reproduction
i have also use a 25bulb lamp to sprout and grow for the first two weeks of growth. (the little guys absolutely love it)
im in the process of building two 1000bulb lamp to see if i can replace my main lamps with. (ttl cost of l.e.d are $71. ttl cost of one lamp under $100)
i hope to have pics and diagrams of the circuits soon. it is low tech but time consuming.
i think this is method of lighting that is overlooked, and with further research would be viable.
i would love to answer any specific questions of my lights or what i have learned,
smile everyone its a wonderful day
drew
ive been reading the thread. many, great questions, asked here.
i think i might be able to answer a few of them for you.
first i would like to say, that i have no formal schooling on the matter. everything that ive learned, is from many failed attempts , and successes. i also have only been doing this for about 6 months.
the idea is a sound one!! it works and works well. what you are thinking, is exactly what happens. you get to control the spectrum of light with the l.e.d. and by doing this you give the plant the proper lightwave to produce photosynthesis,(a healthy plant is a happy plant).
this has many advantages to it.
the first is the ability to produces a source of light that the plant wants. allowing the plant to grow at the maximum efficiency.
second, doing this with very little energy consummation. an average l.e.d run on 2.0-3.7 volts, 1/4watts and about 20milamps
third, doing this while producing very little heat. reducing the cost of large fans and cooling units(some fans still needed to produce a natural wind)
and fourth, the lights, from design, are much smaller then mh, or sodium lights. allowing for a smaller area to work with.
i have looked at the manufactured l.e.d systems, they are something that will work. but cost is something to think about here. 300 bones is a lot of money for covering small square footage.
i needed a way to keep the heat down in the area that i have to work with. i have a mother plant that i use the l.e.d lamps on. it is made up of:
2, 350bulb 70% blue(430-470nm),20% red(640-670nm), 5%amber(580-620nm),(many factors goes into buying a l.e.d) positioned on either side of her, about 18" away. i run her on a 18hr cycle. no problems with reproduction
i have also use a 25bulb lamp to sprout and grow for the first two weeks of growth. (the little guys absolutely love it)
im in the process of building two 1000bulb lamp to see if i can replace my main lamps with. (ttl cost of l.e.d are $71. ttl cost of one lamp under $100)
i hope to have pics and diagrams of the circuits soon. it is low tech but time consuming.
i think this is method of lighting that is overlooked, and with further research would be viable.
i would love to answer any specific questions of my lights or what i have learned,
smile everyone its a wonderful day
drew
HenryDavidThrowed
Member
watched grandmas boy last night. you're the hooker!!! lol