Coloradogrower710
Well-Known Member
Much less.Having a quick look online, looks like the 3 lights cost close to $1000
Buying a 600w hps, hood, bulbs and all the electric for a hole year (6 crops) would cost less
Lights good for veg?
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CheapHomeGrown
Member
It's great to talk to somebody feeling the same way, all these growers going on about leds because they use 30% less power but most of these cost £700-£800 to get smilar results to 600w hps. Just doing simple maths makes you realise there not worth the money.
I was given this light never used tho. What would be the optimal space for veg and flower.
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JimmyJackCorn
Well-Known Member
HID lights are awesome (MH, HPS).
They have okay penetration and cost little up front. You have to replace bulbs every year or two, but those are pretty cheap. They cost more to run, which may or may not be a big deal depending on local electric rates.
The biggest problem is the heat generated by them. It can be mitigated with a cooling hood, or a setup which takes the heat into account.
Another problem is the light color. (I'm not talking about K, I refer to the visible color.) When screening for potential issues, it can make daily observations a bit more complicated.
Overall, I love them. I'm trying an LED because I want more tools in my belt, but I would run HIDs over LEDs if I could make it work year-round.
But nothing comes even close to what the sun can do.
But to answer your actual question, I have run one 600W HID in my 48x48x80 tent with temps exterior to the tent (in my shop) at 60dF with no cooling hood and no issues. Temp at canopy top got as high as 80dF when I needed to clean my filter's sleeve.
They have okay penetration and cost little up front. You have to replace bulbs every year or two, but those are pretty cheap. They cost more to run, which may or may not be a big deal depending on local electric rates.
The biggest problem is the heat generated by them. It can be mitigated with a cooling hood, or a setup which takes the heat into account.
Another problem is the light color. (I'm not talking about K, I refer to the visible color.) When screening for potential issues, it can make daily observations a bit more complicated.
Overall, I love them. I'm trying an LED because I want more tools in my belt, but I would run HIDs over LEDs if I could make it work year-round.
But nothing comes even close to what the sun can do.
But to answer your actual question, I have run one 600W HID in my 48x48x80 tent with temps exterior to the tent (in my shop) at 60dF with no cooling hood and no issues. Temp at canopy top got as high as 80dF when I needed to clean my filter's sleeve.
Dank Bongula
Well-Known Member
Blah blah blah...you can say all that shit about simple math but different people have different needs. In a grow tent, living in the desert, an HPS does not fit my application as it generates too much heat...and I couldn't give a fuck less about saving money on a cheaper costing light if it burns my shit up and/or acts like an oven in my house when it is 115 outside.
I'll gladly pay more for peace of mind that my plants aren't burning, I'm using less electricity and generating less heat.
Coloradogrower710
Well-Known Member
You could always install an A/c
Dank Bongula
Well-Known Member
My house has AC...I don't want it running all the damn time though, shit is expensive lol
But for the tent or the room I could buy an AC unit for that...but then that defeats the purpose of saving money on the light if I now gotta buy an AC unit and a larger extraction fan...that's 2 more things I gotta buy and use that also cost me more money on a continual basis.
CheapHomeGrown
Member
As Jimmy said these are amazing lights.
These digital ballast have been around for the last 15 years, my ballast let's me turn it down to 250w and use a 250mh (bulb cost me £20)
Don't know about the heat as 1kw of electricity will produce the same amount of heat from a heater or light, leds draw less from the wall so they give off less heat but cost you 100's more for the same results.
Imo you should have a separate place to draw cool air in and hot air should leaves the room so the air can't mix.
Aim an oscillating fan between the bulb and canopy to keep the canopy between 20-30c
250w needs be about 8" above the canopy 2ft x 2ft ( in flower you can pull (4-6oz dry cure bud)
400w 12" above the canopy 2.5ft x 3ft (6-10oz)
600w 18" above the canopy 3ft x 4ft (8-16oz)
This is based on my experience.
CheapHomeGrown
Member
Run the lights at night, desert get very cold at night?
The basic maths are just common sense, if you live in a contry where the temps are under 20c most the year, hps are a good choice, in the winter my garden hit -4c and my flower hit 15c with 2 x 600w hps, if I had leds I would need a heater going at the same time.
The biggest advantage of hps is you use larger fans and the large extraction fan keeps the odor in check, no leaks all year round, the canopy gets better airflow and this keeps the humidity low resulting in heathy plants.
Dank Bongula
Well-Known Member
I get that, totally see where you are coming from. I would like to run HPS just from a yield aspect. The desert does get cold during the winter but an overall colder environment would be much better.
SmokeyExcursion
Well-Known Member
Two different tents for two different situations. The sp3000 is going to be for just my 2x4. The two ts are enough to veg my bigger tent before the flowering lights go in. How am I gonna split a single 600w hips into two tents?Having a quick look online, looks like the 3 lights cost close to $1000
Buying a 600w hps, hood, bulbs and all the electric for a hole year (6 crops) would cost less
CheapHomeGrown
Member
Your not making any sense, a single ts1000w would cover a 1m x 1m canopy in veg (quick look online)
So you veg room needs to be 1/3 of the size of the flower room, pot plants up in the flower room for a week and flower them off.
This saves you loads of space and reduces the running cost and outlay for equipment.
If you flower room and veg room are the same size, your veg rooms using 50% more electric than the flower room as the light on 18-24 hours
Ts3000 is designed for a 4ft x 4ft flower room (max 5ft x 5ft) and uses 450w from the wall
You have brought the wrong light for your 2ft x 4ft flower room?
SmokeyExcursion
Well-Known Member
Or i run the two ts1000s dimmed down to 25-50% for a better light spread(35-75w each) in my bigger tent while vegging some clones. And Increase light as needed. When flower hits I swap the lights. And have the TS lights sitting around to add for supplement if I desire or need them. The new sp3000 (not the ts) is what I ordered for my 2x4. And will be the only light in that tent. I'll only be using 2x3 of that tent, leaving room for fans etc. Which gives me double the square footage when switching to the bigger tent. A 4x3. Not that that matters a whole lot with my method. Now since my ADD has kicked in and i havent smoked I will babble on. My plan is to run a couple mothers in the 2x4, pull clones. Once the clones root, flip the mothers to flower. Veg the clones in the bigger tent, and flip them 4-5 weeks before I harvest the mothers. Once the mothers are harvested time to pop different seeds and repeat.
Your original comment made it sound like I was running everything in a single tent. And also deviated away from the original post. "A good light for veg". Which is what my original comment intended to answer. Theres no denying the mars hydro ts line are great veg lights for the money spent.
Johnny Lawrence
Well-Known Member
On what planet?Having a quick look online, looks like the 3 lights cost close to $1000
Buying a 600w hps, hood, bulbs and all the electric for a hole year (6 crops) would cost less
Amazon lists the TS1000s at $140 and SP3 at $350.
And 600 watts of LED(yes, even Mars) will outperform an SE 600 all day.
Johnny Lawrence
Well-Known Member
Reading is fundamental.
His light is an SP3000. It's a bar style LED that is built with a 2x4 space in mind. It consumes 300 watts. HID lights are better suited for square shaped spaces.
I recently convinced a friend to switch out his SE 600 that he was running in a 4x4 tent with an HLG 600 R Spec. It's a 600 watt quantum board LED. He runs GG#4 and was averaging 16 to 20 ounces per run. He just finished his first run under the HLG and pulled 27 ounces. Not sure where you live, but an extra 7 ounces here means that the light more than paid for itself in less than 3 months.
CheapHomeGrown
Member
Your right my bad, thought he said 2 x ts1000 and 1x ts3000
Are these the right ones?
They look very nice but a little too expensive?
adjust a wing, heat shield and a 600w se will cover 1m x 1.4m really well, add a lightrail and your looking to cover 1.8m x 1m (6ft x 3.5ft)
Johnny Lawrence
Well-Known Member
A 2x4 is not 1m x 1.4. SE 600s are too much heat to deal with in that small of a space. 250 to 350 watts of any bar style LED utilizing good chips is perfect for that space.
All of the listings I find for the light put it between $350 and $450. You can get a 320 watt Meiju for under $300 that is perfect for a 2x4.
Noticed that you conveniently ignored my post about the HLG fixture. Why run an SE 600 in a 1m x 1m space when you can get performance comparable to an SE 1000 while pushing the same watts/heat?
All of the listings I find for the light put it between $350 and $450. You can get a 320 watt Meiju for under $300 that is perfect for a 2x4.
Noticed that you conveniently ignored my post about the HLG fixture. Why run an SE 600 in a 1m x 1m space when you can get performance comparable to an SE 1000 while pushing the same watts/heat?
Johnny Lawrence
Well-Known Member
Which Mars light did you happen to fail so poorly with?i made the error of buying a mars hydro light for my first grow. switched to hps and won't go back to led
xtsho
Well-Known Member
I run a 600 in a 4 x 4 tent. A 3 x 3 would be the best for light coverage though. You really need a sealed hood so you can extract the heat. Not one of those wing reflectors.