Long time synthetic grower switching to organic grow, thoughts?

Richard Drysift said:

I water my plants from a dehumidifier sump. Probly would not even drink it unless I had to. Never ph anything. at all. ever. The ph is set by the activity of the microbes and composition of the soil. That’s why a mostly coco mix is so tricky to maintain proper absorption. If you use a bagged soil mix and add in active compost you shouldn’t need to worry about a ph imbalance no matter what your water ph is.
I have an unfair advantage over some because I have a worm bin. The key to growing without nutrients is compost; the more active is it the better. All I do is throw fresh EWC from the worm bin into the mix and that along with properly liming the soil after each run is enough to keep ph right where it should be. Mycorrhizae does the rest.

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VILEPLUME said:

Thanks for sharing.

So from clone to harvest you never top dress or add compost tea? The soil from day 1 has enough nutes until harvest?

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Richard Drysift said:

No but that’s because I fully amend the soil after each run. My mix has been recycled over and over for years now; it gets better with age. When starting out with a fresh bagged mix you will probably need to give teas regularly to maintain high levels of microbial activity. After several runs amending your mix you’ll notice it will sustain plants longer without much more than water. It takes a few recycles to reach supernatural status but you’ll know it when you get there.
I do top dress with EWC if needed but usually by the time they do they get transplanted to larger containers. I also add fertilizer to each pot: a handful or so of chicken manure which keeps them nice and green. For bloom phase I put 2 Jobes organic spikes into each pot just before flipping. Sprinkle on granular mycorrhizae in the hole at each transplant.
If all else fails I keep a bottle of Neptune’s harvest with seaweed on hand; usually in mid to late bloom or late in veg when they’ve been in the same pot too long they will need a boost of soluble NPK.

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FRICKITYFRICKTYFRESH said:

No offence to anyone, but i dont understand why people try to make this shit so difficult. Subcool literally left all his forums and recipes on this site for everyone to read. Make a half or even quarter amount of his supersoil recipe and your guaranteed to grow some stinky organic dank.

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VILEPLUME said:

To clarify, you save the root ball in the end and recycle some of the soil that has the good microbes?

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Richard Drysift said:

I water my plants from a dehumidifier sump. Probly would not even drink it unless I had to. Never ph anything. at all. ever. The ph is set by the activity of the microbes and composition of the soil. That’s why a mostly coco mix is so tricky to maintain proper absorption. If you use a bagged soil mix and add in active compost you shouldn’t need to worry about a ph imbalance no matter what your water ph is.
I have an unfair advantage over some because I have a worm bin. The key to growing without nutrients is compost; the more active is it the better. All I do is throw fresh EWC from the worm bin into the mix and that along with properly liming the soil after each run is enough to keep ph right where it should be. Mycorrhizae does the rest.

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youraveragehorticulturist said:

If I were going to mix up some Sub's Super Soil, I would mix it up at half or quarter Strength, not volume.

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youraveragehorticulturist said:

If I were going to mix up some Sub's Super Soil, I would mix it up at half or quarter Strength, not volume.

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ganga gurl420 said:

I've seen too many people burn their plants from using subs recipe.

Personally I find just buying a premixed bag of nutes is way more efficient and cost effective, and it doesn't matter really what brand you use. I am a huge fan of the espoma company in itself so that is why I use their product as a main base and top dress with something else but I don't have to worry about mixing too much of this or that. Plus the products I use is already inoculated with a ton of bennies. Its nice not having a million half partially used bags of different dry amendments laying around like some of my friends do.

Just my 2 cents.

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VILEPLUME said:

I have some 1-month-old clones that are in small pots that I want to transplant into new pots. They were grown with synthetic nutes, but I'd like to try them with organic nutes for veg and bloom.

I'll be using 80% coco 20% hp promix. Then mixing in the recommend per litre or soil gia green 4-4-4, worm casings, dry molasses and dried sea kelp. De-chlorinate tap water with a water stone for 24hr. PH water to 6.6-6.8 so the good bacteria in the soil doesn't die using baking soda to raise or white vinegar to lower PH.

After 3 weeks switch to bloom cycle and top dress with 50% gia green 4-4-4 and 50% gia green 2-8-4, with micro nutes of dry molasses and dried sea kelp.

Top dress again after week 3 and week 6 with gia green 2-8-4, with micro nutes of dry molasses and dried sea kelp.

Up until week 9 just give water at PH 6.6-6.8.

Thoughts? My goal is to keep it as simple as possible without making compost teas unless there is an emergency deficiency.

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Olive Drab Green said:

I also highly recommend getting something like Roots Organics Dry Nutrients Player Pack. Literally the best organic nutrients I have ever used.

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FRICKITYFRICKTYFRESH said:

This last grow I used nothing but a mix of fox farms soil and Earth Dust dry amendments and having amazing results. My plants might not grow as fast or yield as much, but when it comes to growing your own medicine, and investing so much personal time, quality should always be #1 on everyones list.

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youraveragehorticulturist said:

I've been eye-balling the Roots Organic all in ones.

I saw the "Uprising" Grow and Bloom, and "Terp Tea" Grow and Bloom, at a glance it looked like both grows and both blooms(3-7-4) were pretty similar.

Then saw "Terp Tea" Bloom Booster (.5 - 6 - 1. It looked pretty solid for the 2nd half of flower.

Does anyone have any opinions of info on this stuff?

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