Lowryder #2 - Outdoors - Ireland

VonSchnitzelberg

VonSchnitzelberg

Member
mikeyboy said:
Hah, down here its the opposite, big growers use polytunnels and small fry grow in closets.

Iv always wondered about the possibility of doing a guerrilla grow, its one of the reasons I think I shall be a frequent reader of your journal :bigjoint:

Logic would say so wouldn't it, and you could be right.
I just have this vivid memory of reading some grow reports saying #2 does slightly better.
Guess we shall see before to long eh.
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Hahah thats weird ^^ Its just that nobody around here can afford a proper indoor grow setup. I prefer outdoor anyway. So much easier. :mrgreen:

Exactly, we'll see in 2 months :)

The 3 seedlings I put out are coming on very well. The first night I put them out, it was only 4 degrees, but they didnt seem to be affected atall. Now the 2nd pair of true leaves are coming out, and they look very healthy.

What I did to keep them warm and the air humid is I cut a 2 litre bottle in half and used the halves as humidity domes. So now they are in the tent which keeps the cold wind away, and are in the humidity domes which keep them warm and the air moist. Do you think that'll be enough? I think it'll do.

I'll post more pictures when they get a bit bigger.

Peace
 
VonSchnitzelberg

VonSchnitzelberg

Member
Whats up everybody,

The trouble is starting... One of the days the sun was beating down on the seedlings and I am pretty sure that they suffer from heat stress now. Must of been around 30 degrees in the bottles they were in. That was about 3 days ago. It killed the 2 smallest seedlings and very badly damaged one of the bigger ones. The other 2 remaining arn't as bad, but their 1st set of true leaves are slowly turning brownish. They hav'nt grown atal since that happened. Normally with Lowryder they should be on their third nodes now.. Kind of ironic that last year they died because it was too cold, and now they die because it was too hot.. was my inexperience to blame. I removed the bottles now.
Anyway, Im trying to keep the 3 remaining alive. Hopefully they'll recover soon. This will definetly throw them back a good week or two.
I'll keep ya'll updated on whats happening. :-?

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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
A bottle for protection or humidity should prob be covered with shade cloth to prevent overheating. and have some holes poked in it.
 
Jeffdogg

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
You've been testing the PH as well regularly? Also you dont need those plastic bottles on top. I was gonna mention it before when you talked about the cling wrap. That stuff is used to retain the heat in containers with cooked food in it as well as a splatter shield. So you have the cling wrap over them already retaining heat then on top of that you have the plastic bottles over them retaining more heat. How come you choose to even use cling wrap? They would be fine w/o it just in pots as they are. They should be ok, but i would keep them out of direct sunlight for a few days.
 
VonSchnitzelberg

VonSchnitzelberg

Member
The plants have been out of direct sunlight now for the past 3 days and they are recovering slowly, thank god !

@Jeffdogg : I dont have a pH meter so I cant. Im using mostly compost and since its compost from the Irish peat bogs, it'll be slightly acidic which is pretty much what you want. I know its a risky enough to not be sure of the pH but theres nowhere around that sells em. I used the same soil to grow a tomato plant to check if its alright, and the plant shot up in no time, so the compost must be good enough anyway. Thanks for the advice man :bigjoint:
Oh yeah, and I use the cling film tent to protect them from the wind and rain. Like I said, the plants are next to a lake so its always quite windy there.

Take it easy ya'll

:leaf:
 
Jeffdogg

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
Theres no petsmart or fish store in your area? All i use for water is a $6 one they use to test aquarium water PH IMG_0372.jpg

After seeing those pics notice that was the first question i asked? There might be a heat issue but i can almost guarantee you have PH issues. Order the meter online should be at petsmart im telling $6 will save you oodles.... You dont take care of the PH nutrients will start getting locked out...
 
VonSchnitzelberg

VonSchnitzelberg

Member
Theres nothing around here atal man ! There might be some shops that sell them but you would have to drive for an hour to get there.
Alright, I'll try and get a pH meter somehow.
Why are you so sure that theres a problem with the pH though ?
 
Jeffdogg

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
Because of the way the chlorosis is spreading,

In botany, chlorosis is a condition in which leaves produce insufficient chlorophyll. As chlorophyll is responsible for the green colour of leaves, chlorotic leaves are pale, yellow, or yellow-white. The affected plant has little or no ability to manufacture carbohydrates through photosynthesis and may die unless the cause of its chlorophyll insufficiency is treated, although some chlorotic plants, such as the albino Arabidopsis thaliana mutant ppi2, are viable if supplied with exogenous sucrose.[
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Chlorosis is typically caused when leaves do not have enough nutrients to synthesise all the chlorophyll they need. It can be brought about by a combination of factors including:

  • a specific mineral deficiency in the soil, such as iron[SUP][2][/SUP] or magnesium [SUP][3][/SUP]
  • deficient nitrogen and/or proteins[SUP][3][/SUP]
  • a soil pH at which minerals become unavailable for absorption by the roots [SUP][4][/SUP]
  • poor drainage (waterlogged roots) [SUP][4][/SUP]
  • damaged and/or compacted roots [SUP][4][/SUP]
  • pesticides and particularly herbicides may cause chlorosis, both to target weeds and occasionally to the crop being treated.[SUP][5][/SUP]
  • exposure to sulphur dioxide[SUP][6][/SUP]
  • ozone injury to sensitive plants [2]
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The way the chlorosis is now makes me think its the PH because its not Interveinal chlorosis. thats usually the case of a nute def. The way your leaves are going its coming from the tips. If it was more of a nute issue it would look like the veins are sucking the green color in through the veins. Not the way its going now.

Interveinal chlorosis is almost always associated with a nutrient imbalance. This may either be due to a deficiency of a specific element or to a pH Imbalance in the soil which inhibits a plants ability to absorb nutrients. While the treatment is the same for both, you may still want to select from the list of additional symptoms in order to search for the precise cause of your African Violet's symptoms. Keep in mind, however, that due to the complex interaction between plant nutrients, pinpointing the precise cause will probably be very difficult. Often, an excess of one element will cause a deficiency in one or more other elements, and vice versa. Moreover, it may be that your African Violet is getting the proper balance of nutrients, but an imbalance in the soil pH is inhibiting its ability to absorb them. Thus, short of sending your plant to a laboratory for testing, you will probably have to be satisfied with simply knowing that your African Violet suffers a nutrient imbalance without knowing exactly why.
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VonSchnitzelberg

VonSchnitzelberg

Member
My plants are recovering though. The parts that were brown and yellow are turning back into a healthy green colour since i moved them out of the direct sunlight. If it was a problem with the pH then the leaves would remain brown because nothing in the soil was changed when they got the heat stress. And dont seedlings use up the energy stored in the cotyledons first before they absorb nutes from the grow medium? If thats true then the cotyledons on my seedlings are still intact and are feeding the plant. The roots on the plants arn't properly developed yet either, so Im not sure if its a pH problem although it might look like one.

By the way, im just using common sence and research info here so please correct me if im wrong :bigjoint:
 
Jeffdogg

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
VonSchnitzelberg said:
My plants are recovering though. The parts that were brown and yellow are turning back into a healthy green colour since i moved them out of the direct sunlight. If it was a problem with the pH then the leaves would remain brown because nothing in the soil was changed when they got the heat stress. And dont seedlings use up the energy stored in the cotyledons first before they absorb nutes from the grow medium? If thats true then the cotyledons on my seedlings are still intact and are feeding the plant. The roots on the plants arn't properly developed yet either, so Im not sure if its a pH problem although it might look like one.

By the way, im just using common sence and research info here so please correct me if im wrong :bigjoint:
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A cotyledon (pronounced /ˌkɒtəlˈiːdən/; "seed leaf" from Greek: κοτυληδών kotylēdōn, gen.: κοτυληδόνος kotylēdonos, from κοτύλη kotýlē "cup, bowl"), is a significant part of the embryo within the seed of a plant. Upon germination, the cotyledon may become the embryonic first leaves of a seedling. The number of cotyledons present is one characteristic used by botanists to classify the flowering plants (angiosperms). Species with one cotyledon are called monocotyledonous (or, "monocots") and placed in the class Liliopsida. Plants with two embryonic leaves are termed dicotyledonous ("dicots") and placed in the class Magnoliopsida.

The cotyledons may be ephemeral, lasting only days after emergence, or persistent, enduring a year or more on the plant. The cotyledons contain (or in the case of gymnosperms and monocotyledons, have access to) the stored food reserves of the seed. As these reserves are used up, the cotyledons may turn green and begin photosynthesis, or may wither as the first true leaves take over food production for the seedling.


Epigeal versus hypogeal development

Cotyledons may be either epigeal, expanding on the germination of the seed, throwing off the seed shell, rising above the ground, and perhaps becoming photosynthetic; or hypogeal, not expanding, remaining below ground and not becoming photosynthetic. The latter is typically the case where the cotyledons act as a storage organ, as in many nuts and acorns.
Hypogeal plants have (on average) significantly larger seeds than epigeal ones. They also are capable of surviving if the seedling is clipped off, as meristem buds remain underground (with epigeal plants, the meristem is clipped off if the seedling is grazed). The tradeoff is whether the plant should produce a large number of small seeds, or a smaller number of seeds which are more likely to survive.[SUP][1][/SUP][SUP][2]


[/SUP]

ghfdhd.jpg

You have chlorosis on both sets bud.. You say you dont but your pics say different ;P. And as i said if your PH isnt right its going to lock out nutrients.

Plants need several things to make their own food.
They need:
  • chlorophyll, a green pigment found in the leaves of plants (see the layer of chlorophyll in the cross-section of a leaf below)

  • light (either natural sunlight or artificial light, like from a light bulb)
  • carbon dioxide (CO[SUB]2[/SUB])(a gas found in the air; one of the gases people and animals breathe out when they exhale)
  • water (which the plant collects through its roots)
  • nutrients and minerals (which the plant collects from the soil through its roots)
Plants make food in their leaves. The leaves contain a pigment called chlorophyll, which colors the leaves green. Chlorophyll can make food the plant can use from carbon dioxide, water, nutrients, and energy from sunlight. This process is called photosynthesis.

During the process of photosynthesis, plants release oxygen into the air. People and animals need oxygen to breathe.​
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How will the plant keep getting food from the leaves if it gets nutrient lock and cant anymore? Yeah theres some food stored now but how about 1 month from now? You cant go thinking like that man.. And even worse if there is nute lock and you keep giving it nutes you gonna get salt build up and theres another issue on its own bud.... Use our common sense for now not yours plz :weed: (dont be offended by that please lol)
 
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