Lowryder2 Grow Journal 2nd grow

sir smokesalot

Well-Known Member
Ok ima jump in here, and help ya get the most from ya LRs...

Firstly, 24/0 light schedule will work with LRs, but its not ideal..Remember we're trying to recreate nature in our indoor grow rooms, and nowhere on earth gets a full 24 hrs of sunlight. I grow a heck of a lot of LRs for my auto crosses, and the optimum light schedule appears to be 18/6 from start to finish, they really enjoy the 6 hrs off time, and grow like mad.

Its critical that you get more light in there too bro.. altho LRs will survive and flower in poorly lit areas/grow spaces, they will never reach their full potential.. If i'm growing with CFL i deploy them like this, first wk use one cfl per plant of highest wattage you can find, 20w cfl 100w equivalent will work sweet for now..2nd/3rd wk, 2 cfls again of the highest wattage available to you, as soon as they hit the 4th wk and start growing more rapidly, use 3 cfls around the sides of the plants and 1 HIGH watt cfl for the canopy...as soon as they are around 6-8" i swap the CFL over the canopy for a CFL flood light that holds 2 bulbs, the type that contain 4 pin PLC energy saving bulbs, as these are available in both spectrums 2700k and 6400k.
around the 12" mark, add another CFL to the sides for supplemental lighting.
This setup would then be used for the rest of the grow.
Also, CFLs must be approx 1 - 2" from the plant, any further and their efficiency is drastically reduced..

If you have more than one plant in there, you can just use 3 cfls for side lighting as they will share the weak light from the other CFLs that surround your other plants.
Mylar is a must too.

As far as light spectrums goes, i've done grows using 100% 6400k and 100% 2700k setups, and believe me, the 2700k setup was much better...
Veg is over in the first 10 - 14 days... so excess blue spectrum light, whilst it'll make them grow nice n healthy, also seems to restrict flowering somewhat.
When doing a CFL grow i use 70% 2700k CFLS and 30% 6400k...that way the spectrum is a lil closer to natural light, as , even in late summer when the daylight consists of high amounts of red spectrum light, there is still blue light in the mix.


Ok, the miracle grow compost might be a lil too HOT for the LRs too.
LR stains dont like high nute levels, i usually start off in john innes no1 seedling compost, then transfer to a mix of john innes and wests advanced plus, which they seem to like alot..
Most multi purpose composts have enough nutes for 4-6wks, so in theory, there isnt any need to feed your seedlings until they start to show sex around day 17 for males and day 21+ for females..
When they show sex, start with a very weak solution of Bloom booster/flowering nutes, organics work very well with this strain, and generally dont exceed 1/2 to 3/4 recommended dosage... Nutes that are high in Nitogen will not help with flowering, try to get a nute that has plenty of Phosphorous/potassium and other trace elements. the Bio bizz range for example work great.
Also as soon as they sex, start with light eeds of molasses every other watering, remembering to flush the pot after every 2 applications of molasses or the soil with get clumpy and will be hard for the plant to absorb nutes, as well as being a potential problem area for pests that like sugary stuff.
A typical example of my nute regime as soon as they sex is as follows - 1ml biobizz grow, 2-3ml of topmaxx bloom booster,ocassionally 1 drop of superthrive or 1ml of rhizotonic and 1 tsp of molasses(1tsp to every gallon)

Use superthrive every couple of waterings for the first 2-3wks, 1 drop per litre is more than enough..foliar feed or mix with nutes/water.

Here's a typical example of a regular LR2 that yielded a lil over an ounce and a half


check out my profile for other LR related posts etc.
Rep on the post frosty, always informative:peace:

its under cfls,startin to show nute defic. 15 in tall,12in wide and main cola is 2in wide


Is that just LR2 or a cross?
 

wackymack

Well-Known Member
its dr.chronics lowryder2 fyi,no cross at all.why u ask if its crossed?cus its profusely brached at the base like auto ak47
 

hypernovax

Well-Known Member
not to hijack the thread but what does 6500k mean? is that the lumens? my 24watters say 6500k on them but im not sure what it mean
 

kaarne

Active Member
6500K means the light bulb has a lot of blue light and simulates peak daylight hours. As you go lower in temperature the light has a lot more yellow and simulates afternoon/evening daylight. Lower temperatures are better for flowering while higher temperatures are better for the vegetative stage.
 

kaarne

Active Member
daaamn, you got quite an operation going. Those are looking really nice! What kind of lighting are you using?
 

kaarne

Active Member
Here is my baby at day 10. I am keeping the 18/6 light schedule. Just transplanted the plant a few days ago. Gave it some SUPERthrive, it seems to be adapting nicely. Will water with Aquafina only for the next week, after which I will start feeding with 20-20-20.
 

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piFFstAr407

Well-Known Member
damn those lr2 seeds are amazing.. auto-flowering.. finally something i can handle, i've had terrible luck with growing haha i had buncha these plants going called "blue nose" and out of nowhere they started dying and boom dead.. nothing worked to heal them. where could i get sum lr2? or anyone have any to sell? thx mr2drvn@yahoo.com
 

frostythesnowthug

Well-Known Member
Piffstar, the LR strains are certainly opening up the field for great indoor hybrids..And yup theyre sooo super easy to grow without problems.

Dr chronic is a V good supplier, and always has a bunch of LR stuff in stock, as well as the other Lowlife seeds LR crosses. all of which are auto, but require different amounts of growing knowledge.
Selling seeds on RIU is prohibited, but look out for some of the competitions that happen on here..
I will be possibly be running a comp for some of my auto ECSD x LR2 in a few wks.
 

piFFstAr407

Well-Known Member
thanks for the replies.. ill def have to check out drchronic, just baffled me when i saw these auto-grow dealies bc had no idea such things existed, word. now its time for a little wake'n toke. :joint:
 

kaarne

Active Member
Here is my (hopefully) girl at day15. Growing strong and showing good color. I SUPERthrived it a few times, keeping the soil on the dry side, no nutes yet, will wait till day 25. The plant is showing very nice green color, looking very healthy. No sex yet, hopefully in the next 5 days it will show its pistils.
 

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frostythesnowthug

Well-Known Member
Lookin Good so far...That looks nice n healthy bro, altho its a lil small for 15 days, but that doesnt necessarily mean a damned thing with this strain.
If youre still usinf the CFLs try to get them within 1" of the plant for best results, and it should def start growing a lil more vigorously.
I used to fix my lights then use a bucket or some to sit the pots on, to get the plants right underneath the CFLs, then gradulally lower them as they start growing.
you can probably give it a couple of SMALL shots of grow type nutes now until it shows sex..Use a 1/6 of the dosage.. That way it'll have plenty of Nitrogen etc, to see it well into the flowering period..
Then start with the bloom booster/molasses when its shown sex.
keep us posted:)
 

kaarne

Active Member
thanks for the tip frosty. I raised the pot so its now about an inch from the lights and I gave it about 1/6 dose of 20-20-20 nutes. I will post progress on sunday (day20). I havent gone back to look at your previous post on the use of molasses just now, but can you tell me why its good for the plant? thanks again.
 

frostythesnowthug

Well-Known Member
Molasses is a syrupy, thick juice created by the processing of either sugar beets or the sugar cane plant. Depending on the definition used, Sweet Sorghum also qualifies as a molasses, although technically it’s a thickened syrup more akin to Maple Syrup than to molasses. The grade and type of molasses depends on the maturity of the sugar cane or beet and the method of extraction. The different molasses’ have names like: first molasses, second molasses, unsulphured molasses, sulphured molasses, and blackstrap molasses.
For gardeners the sweet syrup can work as a great carbohydrate source to feed and stimulate microorganisms. And, because molasses (average NPK 1-0-5) contains potash, sulfur, and many trace minerals, it can serve as a nutritious soil amendment..
The other benefit of using molasses is it’s ability to work as a chelating agent. That’s a scientific way of saying that molasses is one of those “magical” substances that can convert some chemical nutrients into a form that’s easily available for critters and plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil.

Its a great way of creating 'healthy' soil with plenty of micro organism activity, and lots of accessible nutes and natural sugars for the plant to use for the build blocks of good growth.

i use 1 tsp per litre every 2 or 3 waterings/feeds...flush soil periodically to remove the sticky residue that can build up if you get over zealous with the molasses..

I use Grandmas unsulphured molasses, 12oz jar will see you through a few grows.
 
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