Lucas Formula. should i be adding a "bud booster" ? is lucas worth it?

Ya I've seen a lot of the vids for cloning. I dont have all the stuff right now and i think i may need to clone tonight.. So they will probly go in the aero cloner again this run but next i wanna try your way. I dont think I asked you this, when do you like to take your clones and from what plant? A mother? Your now vegging ones that will soon go to flower? And what is true? Clones taken from the bottom or top are better?

right now, im taking them off the vegging plants i have. I FIGURED i need to give them about a week or more to heal after all that. Is that right?

Gonna check out the music thing for sure man! lol makes me smile!

Ok cool, im glad i asked you about that vid then. I will deffinetely be taking your advice and using the trichs to tell me. For a setup like mine, what would you think is the MINIMUM amount of days i should flush. My method so far: Drain res, refill with well water and a full strenght clearing solution (I may have gone a little weaker on this last time, worrying about it a little. ???) and fill the system for an hour, drain into the drain, fill res back up with half RO half well, let it run for however many days.

I wonder if i should do like half hour fill, when it drains, check ppm, fill again for half hour, when it drains, check ppms, it SHOULD be higher than before if its sucking out the salts, repeat that until the ppms dont really change. AND THEN drain and fill back up with plain water for however many days. ?

Thanks BC

I have cloned from both vegging plants and mothers. It doesn't matter you can do whatever you want. If I have multiple rooms going and I already have a cloning room going I can use the bottom branches off our vegging plants to clone for new plants for another room. Saves from having mom's going. But in some instances our timing is off so we have to rely on mom's for clones.
You can use cuttings from anywhere on the plant but lower branches should in theory root better because they have more mature/stronger rooting hormones. But we haven't found a major difference with this in our experiments. When you are cloning you will find a variance in root times with all your clones. We find more of a significance to where in the room our rooting trays/domes are. For example if you have a better humidity and temperature level at the top of your shelves in the room then you will find the plants will root there before others.
Some times it's opposite ie. the lower shelves will root faster because at that particular time the humiditiy/temperature is "prime" for root development at that shelf in the room.
It's a good idea to have an oscillating fan going at all times in a cloning room so that your temp/humidity levels are the same everywhere. It's not just important to have good humidity/temp control under the cloning domes but also in the ambient air in the cloning room itself.

Not sure what you are asking about a "healing plant" Do you mean you give them a week to heal after you cut branches off for cloning before you flip to flower? If that's what you mean. That doesn't matter at all. We "lollipop" (cut the lower branches off our plants) right when we flip them to flower and they have no issues continuing on to flower fine. MJ is a hearty weed man. They heal and continue on growing without a problem.

You should only have to have flush in hydro with a clearing solution for half to a full day then just give water after that. 4 to 6 days prior to chop is more than enough IMHO.
Unlike soil where you are flushing for a week to two weeks.
But make sure you use a clearing solution. Our preferred one is Final Phase but I don't like to seem like I am pushing any certain nute companies product. But in all honesty my bud smokes very very smooth with it and has a very nice white ash. You will see what I mean if you use it.

ya that is what i meant with the "healing" ok cool i didnt know that. I wont take my clones until like right before the plantare gonna go to flower then. Or do you suggest taking them at a certain time before putting them over? that will cut down A LITTLE on how long my plants have to veg. Today is week 6 day 7 for my vegging plants. soooo much damn vegging lol.. i gotta fine tune it eventually lol. But hey, extra vegging just means bigger plants. and i have the vertical room so FUUUKKK it lol.

Anyways, i wanted to show you the pics from tonight. See if I got close enuf for you to check out the calyxes. I did scope out a few diff plants. and none of them had cloudy heads on the trich's yet as far as i could tell. The stupid little loupe i have is a 30X and 60X but the 60 is like the size of a pencil eraser so its kinda hard to use.. But the trich's i would see on like a side view were all clear. the only "cloudy" ones it would seem like i was seeing were when i was looking straight down on them, so, i think you were right. Little longer with the nutes.

These lil ones crack me up SURVIVIN! lol

Seeing these, does this give you any idea to tell me how far they look? Hoping this run will really tell me when they get done for future runs. AND, when I DO notice a couple cloudy trich's, then flush, right? Question i have is, from then when i see a couple cloudy's, about how long does it take for the rest of those trich's turn cloudy to amber? 5-7 days? 10-14 days? It would be sweet if i was harvesting over next week's long holiday weekend!! but if it dont work out that way, whatever, i just want em as perfect as i can get them. Veg is exploding lol

mainline

Uncle Ben Topped

LST, hope she stretches a lot lol

Scrog


you said i should only have to flush for a half to a full day. Do you mean, have the res filled with water and the cleaning solution, (i do have whatever GH's brand is) and leave it in there for a normal day's worth of time? so it would get 4 15min shots of the cleaning solution all at same times they were getting the feedings. That what you mean? Then water only.

[QUOk and guckky.. Anyways I read about Lucas, it seemed easy, so i coulod at least get some grows in, then i'd go back to a full line of something. I was thinking the Botanicare line.. Thoughts?

Question, has anyone used Lucas and have you added a "bud booster" during veg, or are u strictly sticking with 8ml micro/16ml bloom?

I am running the lucas formula with floralicious & 2 ml of calmag. At wk 4 I start giving 2 ml of bloombastic on top of the lucas formula. My ppms run 1400 and 1550 with bloombastic. I love bloombastic awesome product. At these levels I haven't experienced nute burn. I also use h202 so my roots stay pearly white.

Well if you read thru this thread, it started with me asking about Lucas. I have since then gone to using a 1/1/1 ratio suggested wonderful BGOGYODA. GH Flora series 3 part. The plants seemed to respond favorably. Little darker green. Lucas seems to lack some nitrogen. All my shoots were bright green. Now they look great. I was actually thinking of going with Botanicare sometime in the future myself. Since I use basically all thier products for my additives. I dont think you can do lucas with Botanicare tho if i remember reading correctly. Anyways, I would suggest following what BCOGYODA suggests. This 1/1/1 ratio really allows for to add anything. Just bring your PPM's up with 1/1/1 ratio to however high you want while still leaving room for your additive's ppm's to all equal a total ppm that you want. It's really simple actually. I like it better than lucas. just my 2 cents

Fuck man I wrote a reply to you last night and forgot to hit the button to post it lol. Turned my dead computer on today to see it didn't post and my tab wasn't there anymore to post what I wrote so here I go again lol..

Ya those buds are getting more mature. You have "fox tails" coming out of the top cola's which are caused by a couple dif things at times. They can form from light and or heat stress, and/or can be just from your booster. It's not a bad thing but just make sure your top colas aren't too close to the lights. It's prob just from the booster. Sometimes it will cause these fox tails which give a bit of a dif shape to your buds. Instead of evenly shaped pine cone like tops they will get these fox tail shoots coming out from them. It adds weight to your buds so that's a good thing. When you see fox tails it's also a good sign you have strong boosters but you also want to be careful at this point you don't burn the plants cause they are maxing out around now.
You will read some people on the net talking about fox tails being some times strain dependent. This is only kind of true. Sativa's will more quickly fox tail just because the way their buds develop. They develop more airy, separated, and naturally have fox tail shaped development. But in hybrids and true indicas foxtails will develop for the reasons I listed above. We have played with tons of strains and tons of grow environment conditions to isolate these cases to figure out all the reasons this occurs.

Did you tweak your g/m/b ratio yet? adding more Bloom and less grow and micro? Sorry man if you wrote it earlier. I know we discussed it but I just got in and am trying to answer you without re reading everything.

Ya just go by your trichs to judge when to flush. Yes; when you see some cloudy ones you will want to flush cause they will still ripen while flushing and after. So like I was saying it depends what kind of a high/stone you want from your weed. I call a "high" a head high where you want more cloudy trichs and a "stone" a more body couch relax stone..If you want say a 30% amber/70% cloudy you would prob be good to flush when you all cloudy trichs. But again like I said earlier this can also vary by strain. Dif strains mature at dif rates. And these maturity rates can also be manipulated to quicken by lowering your temps and dimming your lights or turning some lights off. So if you flush and find you don't have any amber trichs yet you can manipulate things to get your plants some amber trichs. A trick of the trade. We have done it a lot. It will help tighten and harden up your buds and will also create more resin too because it's a defensive mechanism of the plant to protect itself from cold and dark. They do these things in nature in the outdoors naturally..

Yes, that's what I meant about the flushing..some guys in hydro only flush for 6 hrs to half a day then just go straight water till chop. I would go a full day of feeding just your clearing solution to fully flush them then go to just water till you chop. I would do your flush only a few days to a week at the most before you chop with hydro but like I said I've been a soil grower from day one so I'm going by what my associates are saying that I asked for you.
With hydro you can flush very effectively in much less time than soil. So what I would say is that if your grow was mine I would feed right up until around 5 days before I chopped. But I would know better after I grew that specific strain a few times.
Say you see all cloudy trichs..then flush for the day, then go straight water and keep checking trichs...if you don't see some amber showing up then drop your temps way down and turn some of the hps off in the room to initiate and quicken the onset of amber trichs showing up then chop when you see around 30% amber. Wost case scenario is not very many amber trichs show up so you end up chopping when 10% amber show up. This is still an excellent chop time. Your potency will still be excellent.
You just don't want to chop when you have clear trichs or more than 40% amber. Anywhere in between will be excellent.

I was wondering what those lil things were. Ok cool. I could raise the light a bit. Would the stress be because the heat of the light or just that its TOO MUCH light? It IS a 1000w Super HPS. Cuz i know the its not really, HOT, at the tops.

And yes, I did change it up. On, the Tuesday before this last one. I did a 1/2/3 ratio with full strength Liquid koolbloom, and full strength Silica Blast and full Sweet. Gave me like 1300ppm. They are drinking about 4-5 gallons a day. So since that res change they have gotten 30 gallons added to it. Some just plain water, like if my PPMs are starting to spike, and sometimes the water i add will have half strength of these nutes i put in originally. I WAS THINKING by now i would have been flushing. BUT i was just looking at them tonight and they still look clear man.. At least im pretty sure. Waiting ever so patiently lol Wow dude thats really kool of you to ask ur buddys stuff for me. I really appreciate that!!

Ok So i think I'll follow what you suggesting then. Wait till i see basically all cloudy trich's then flush for a day with the FloraKleen, then jsut straight water for a few days up to a week. QUESTION: I should give them 48 hours of darkness at the end right? Is there a point at which you go "ok cut the lights" by the trich's or just kind of play it as best as you can judge it? Obviously while in the dark you can still peak at them with the loupe, right?

And i might actually be able to do that, I dont know if you can see it, but I have 1 1000w Super HPS in a Raptor hood, but still wasnt getting the edges very well. I threw in my lil all in one 400w on the side, SOOOO if i needed to , I could cut the 1000W and just keep on the 400W. That would definetely make if colder in there. And my intake right now is pulling cold as air from outside, thats filtered before i get it. You can see my temps. Humidity is pretty low. Thats ok tho right?

Pics from tonight. Man, im pulling up pics from two weeks ago, they aren't really as BIGGER as i thought they would be after two weeks. Have they not really started "swelling" yet? I forget if you said they didnt start to really swell until the trich's got cloudy. Just learned how to make the pics bigger lol


I forget if i asked you about drying..? Someone was telling me a good way to dry is cool and slow. Like 62 degrees and i forget the humidity he said. But like a slow two week dry and then they dont dry too quick and have like a "planty" smell..? The last ones i harvested, in the dwc buckets, they did end up smelling a little planty, and they basically dried in a week too tho. Pretty quick. When they curing, when you first cracked them they would ahve a good lil smell, NOT AS SKUNKY AS I WAS HOPING, then when i would go a put the caps back on the jars they just smelled like chunks of PLANT in jars... ??

Do you think those shitty looking leaves are from nute BURN?

Great thread guys, great pics and it was very enjoyable to return and stumble on to this post.

Now Budtoker I just have one suggestion that may save you alot of money and your girls will be very happy with the change. I consider enzymes important for coco, soil and environments containing beneficial bacteria.
If you are using a 100% synthetic feeding schedule like the Lucas formula (nutes don't contain humics, B1 or organic materials) I would HIGHLY recommenced you stop using enzymes. You simply do not need enzymes in a sterile ebb and flow system. Rather replace it with H2O2 (25% or higher) which is a fraction of the cost to keep your res sterile while it boosts dissolved oxygen as it dissolves gradually into the res. Add to your res according to bottle recommendation (about 150ml per 55gal) and about 1/5th (30ML) of that amount every 2-3 days until next res change.

I am sure that this is a method many hydro growers use to keep their res sterile throughout a grow so I encourage you to do your research to validate this. Save your $$$.

Cheers

Since my water temps have now been lowered to about 67-68 degrees i dont really NEED to put any of that in. In the summer, when i cant control the fact that it will get up a little higher, then i add that in. Either H2o2 or aquashield. Depending. With low water temps tho, im not too worried about nasties growing. Each res and system is about to get a deep clean in about a week too. Thanks man!!

No if it's just a 1000 w those tops aren't getting fox tails from that and if your temp is good then it isn't from that. It's from the booster and combo going to the 1/2/3 ratio most likely.
Yes, see the tiny little lighter colored tips of the leaves. That is the very first sign you are maxed out for nutes at the ratio you gave. BUT this will happen even if one of your N/P/K's is maxed out so if you did the 1/2/3 ratio with the full booster you now know that you should back off that 1/2/3 ratio a little bit to be at a safe max for that strain without burning.

Here's what I'm trying to say: you could have a 1300 total ppm comprised of even parts g/m/b a 1/1/1 ratio and not burn your plants. But when you go to a 1/2/3 ratio with still a 1300 total ppm you could now burn your plant because of the spike in P or K or a combo of both. Because your liquid booster is a 0/10/10 and you now raised your P and K with the new 1/2/3 ratio. So you can still feed at 1300 ppm but ease back the ml's of the 1/2/3 ratio you are giving a bit. Get what I mean?

Yes they will swell more when they are cloudy trichs and if you were to physically weigh a bud now compared to earlier you would see weight gain easier than size volume gain because as the flowers mature they gain weight faster than volume then when they swell towards the end of maturity they gain volume and more weight. Just gotta be careful now that you don't go too strong with your P and K in your feed cause of those early tell tale signs of the burn. It's ok I'm glad you posted the pics. Adjust the feed now and you'll be fine. That's why I asked about your tweaking the ratio. It's a very touch and go with a new strain you are learning about their happy feed ratios.

Yes that was me that posted about the drying temps and humidity in post #7 of this thread.

What do you have for cooling in the room right now? Just air exchange or an a/c or chiller also?

Yes you can just use the 400w at the end to help with flower maturity and yes you can do 48hrs of dark to produce more resin and quicken maturity. Yes even in complete darkness you can check with a loup with a very small flashlight or phone light. It takes awhile before any light leak would ever affect your flowers negatively so a few days before chop a quick peek here and there is nothing to worry about at all.

In your grow room you want around 50% humidity lights on. When it's dark the humidity will rise a lot and you should have a dehum in there for that but if you don't have adequate cooling then a de hum running for hours and hours can raise your temp a lot.


Regarding H2o2 vs enzymes
Read post #29 of this thread:
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/83532-do-not-use-hydrogen-peroxide-3.html
What this RIU member posted about it pretty much sums it up IMO and my associates who commercially grow high grade medical mj. They use h2o2 to sterilize in between grows. Not to grow plants with. It came up a lot in the past in our community because soil growers were also discussing using it.

It's a common topic that comes up over and over and over again all over the net. I can not personally give any tested results with it so I am just telling you what my associates' opinions are of it. So do your own investigations. But it sounds like you are doing the same thing so there you go.

You can also reduce the booster a bit too and either keep your 1/2/3 dosage or reduce both slightly. This is where it's a tweak game to get max food to your plant without the burn. You are right there at max. Just gotta dial it back a little bit to keep them max and happy without going over the magic line.

Ok, yes i do get what ur saying. I'll try and cut it down a little more.

I have a 4 inch inline pulling filtered air being pulled from outside. Right now that air is pretty cold too. Around 25 degrees F. But I have the 1000w and the 400w next to that. The 400w has no ventilation. After this crop im getting another 1000w and another raptor hood and my room will be NICE and lit. Then ill just have an exhaust straight hooked up to the CFilter and out. And a second fan pulling cool air thru the sealed reflectors and dispersing the warm air,,,, somewhere i want heat i guess lol. So yes, for COOLING my room right now its the intake air. RH is about 30% If i was to run a humidifier in there, doesn't it jsut easily get like sucked out by the exhaust/ The humidifier i have is this two gallon thing. Gallon per side, so it goes out fairly quick. Lots of refilling. Im actually going to check the night temps in a few mins to see what it is before lights on. I'll let you know. Just gonna check the trich's again. Basically every day now.

Does is matter which one to cut back on at the end like this? Would it be more benificail to cut the main nutes back and have full strength booster? or visa versa? or is just a trial and error deal?

Thanks MAN!!

FYI, I think night temps are staying at about 64degrees.

Hey sorry man been busy past couple days. You can cut back on either but the booster is the most potent ingredient so you may want to ease that back a bit. That's what I do when I hit just a tiny bit of burn.
Ya if you are air exchanging then humidifier is kind of pointless. 30% is very low. 50% is where marijuana does the best. It's tough to control humidity with an air exchange system at different seasons of the year with outside weather.
64F night time temp is a good temp for getting hard resinous flowers. The cooler temp helps with that. A bit warmer night temp will give you bigger bud though. So it's a "catch 22" situation. The product will look nicer with cooler temps but they will swell more with a bit warmer temps..Dif strains like dif temps too. So just watch how they finish up and you will know where you can change things up in the future if you have to.

Ya no problems man, its the Holiday's!

So, yes, i am doing air exchange. Is that not what im supposed to be doing? Is there a better way? I always thought you needed to get old warm air out and resupply with fresh air constantly? Am i wrong on this? I'm honestly down to do whatever it takes. Including eventually investing a good amount of money in climate control stuff too. but thats a little down the road still.

I just checked on them... forgot the camera all the buds on all the plants are getting all orange now. And they smell better too. They are getting pretty HARD too like little baseballs. Im zip tieing everywhere and had to tie up that one big top i have in the pics up to the reflector. So they getting fatter for sure. STILL jsut clear frickin trich's tho from what i can see. MAYBE i saw a COUPLE cloudy ones on like one or two leaves that i looked at. but its really hard to get a GOOOOOOD look with the little stupid loupe i have.

I'm REALLY hoping when i check on them either tomorrow or saturday that they have more cloudy. Then I'll start the flush. Do that for 5-7 days. my veg tent is literally jsut exploding right now. i mean shit, they been vegging for frickin 8 weeks now.... this time tho, im not taking clones until like they day before i transfer to flower. that way i get at least 2 weeks in the cloner (gonna use your method next run) before they start their actualy "veg" time in the veg tent.

Anyways, thats the update I may need to rethink the strain i wanna use. I really would like one that finishes a little sooner. The damn descriptions shows 50-55 days. And i have some Purple Paralysis seeds but those say 65-70 days. Ican only imagine if these ones say 50-55 and they taking this long, then the 65-70 day ones gotta go even longer than THAT... sigh.... Thanks dude

Hey right on man ya they are ripening now! That's what they do. The hairs will get orange and retract in towards the calix and the buds get harder and swollen. You should for sure see cloudy trichs very soon.

If you can a good way to check trichs is to turn off your hps lights and put an incandescent or fluorescent light source above the bud you are checking. That kind of light will give you a better realistic view of the true clarity of the trichome. The HPS may be affecting the view of the trichome through the loup.

There are also cheap trich microscopes you can get on line or in grow stores too for around $15. Most of them have a light in them and a dial to adjust magnification and focus.

Yes there is a different way to grow indoors than using air exchange. Sealed grow rooms are the most controlled grow environments you can make for plants to grow in but it may not be feasible for a one or two light room because it costs more $ to build them properly.

The issues you will find though with air exchange rooms is that they are very cold in the winter and very warm in the summer months, the humidity is hard to control, and the co2 levels can't be manipulated to well to give the plants high levels of co2 they thrive in.

But if you are doing well in the air exchange system with the set up you have then keep her going like that. Don't fix what ain't broken until you have to.

A sealed room is exactly that; perfectly sealed and the whole grow environment is completely controlled by a/c's, dehumidifiers, co2 generators etc..
I have been growing in sealed rooms for a long time. It give's you complete control of temperature, humidity, co2 etc.

If you decide to go that way eventually I can help you with any info you need. Like I said though it is costly with the equipment you need but sometimes you can save a lot of $ buying good used equipment.

I used to put tons of pics on the internet of my commercial set ups but people close to me warned me about doing that so I took them all down of the net a couple years ago on a different forum. I'll try to find some pics on a flash drive or old disc to post some of my set ups for you. No promises though I have to look through some old stuff..Took them all off our old computer too cause we were being really careful then.

I don't take too many pics anymore of my places but If I get around to it and remember to when I'm working I'll take some pics for you to see what I mean by sealed grow rooms.
You can also google it and see what you find..

Plants take in co2 in the light cycle and put out oxygen and in the dark they take in oxygen and put out co2..In a sealed grow room you do not exchange air. They take in co2 from a co2 tank, or burner, or other source when the lights are on. In the dark they take in oxygen from leaves and from their roots via the oxygen in the water/food that's in the soil or hydro supply.
Cooling is done by a/c's, or "swamp chillers/coolers". No air exchange on those either. They run on either freon or water, or both with some types.

Ya man a LOT of seed suppliers understate the correct flowering times for the strains they are selling/pushing. Because a lot of growers want to crop out fast so even if a strain is really a 9 or 10 week flower they will market it as a 7 or 8 week flower strain. Complete bullshit and should never be done! People want to grow powerful potent marijuana medicine, not weak immature non potent medicine.
Growers need to really realize this. A crop chopped down immature with clear trichomes is very weak with meds and is a waste when you consider how much time, money, and effort goes into growing healthy plants.

You are doing it completely the right way. You are going to have potent fully mature flowers. If this strain is too long for you then look for some potent quick maturing strains out there but don't believe the breeders or seed bays all the time. Read good grower reports on them done by growers that check plant maturity by trichomes. And read, read, read about marijuana maturity and potency. You will see how important this is. And mature ripe flowers will out yield immature unripe flowers by a very large margin.

Keep up the great work man! I love to hear that you are tying up heavy flowers! This made me happy man. I'm so glad you are doing things the right way. Just imagine if you followed the seed sellers recommendations and chopped them in 7-7.5 weeks lol they would have been SO weak of meds and SO underweight! Good on you man!

I will give you some advice. Most of all of these growers really don't know much at all about growing anything. They see some ad or go to some hydro store and try the next best thing. Bottom line these are plants and every single plant specie can only grow according to its genetics. So all you can do to try and maximize everything for the plant(this is what hydro is doing), is to give the plant the best possible environment. Nothing more you can do than that as nature takes its course. So, GH Maxi series is all you need if you want a good yielding plant. If you want to go for maximum, then you are going to have to learn about foliage feeding and micro and macro feeding to the roots(basically you need to learn on your own to become a green thumb). There is no cutting corners are some secret to growing plants. It comes down to experience with a plant and learning how it grows. Just like I know how to grow this plant, tomatoes, jalapenos, green peppers, snow peas and some other plants. Can I grow every single plant specie on earth to its maximum as much as I already know, absolutely NOT. That comes with experience. So get your hands dirty, stick with a basic grow plan for now and then get more advanced as you learn.

twistedwords said:

I will give you some advice. Most of all of these growers really don't know much at all about growing anything. They see some ad or go to some hydro store and try the next best thing. Bottom line these are plants and every single plant specie can only grow according to its genetics. So all you can do to try and maximize everything for the plant(this is what hydro is doing), is to give the plant the best possible environment. Nothing more you can do than that as nature takes its course. So, GH Maxi series is all you need if you want a good yielding plant. If you want to go for maximum, then you are going to have to learn about foliage feeding and micro and macro feeding to the roots(basically you need to learn on your own to become a green thumb). There is no cutting corners are some secret to growing plants. It comes down to experience with a plant and learning how it grows. Just like I know how to grow this plant, tomatoes, jalapenos, green peppers, snow peas and some other plants. Can I grow every single plant specie on earth to its maximum as much as I already know, absolutely NOT. That comes with experience. So get your hands dirty, stick with a basic grow plan for now and then get more advanced as you learn.

Click to expand...

Hell ya man, I hear ya. Im strapped in for the ride! lol I've been learning a lot! This spring I'm also gonna be making a garden outside. Grow peppers and tomatoes and make salsa and stuff Really excited for that too! I have actually been trying to find like a real in person Botiny class, either at a university or like a community college. All I have been finding so far are online courses or like "pay this money and get this course" which consists of a few videos or something.

BC,

Got some pics from tonight. Man i think its getting CLOSE! And ya I have actually been taking the trimming scissors and just clipping a nice little frosty leaf from almost each plant and bringing it the "workroom" where its just an INC light in there. And my loupe has a 30x and a 60x on it. With a little light that turns on when you pull it all the way out. Bringing it out there, your right, you can see it the best, and it actually just sits still for you to get a good look. I almost got real frickin excited, I pulled a frosty one from my MIDDLE lady, she's got just like little baseball nugs on her tops, and is one of the two with the most orange hairs. Anyways most of them all clear, then im scanning and im like "WTF" is this an "amber" one?!?!? And i found like 3 others on that leaf. I couldnt tell if they were like damages trich's or if they were actually mature trich's. Thing is, i didnt see ANY others on any other leaves. And on that same leaf, all the other trich's were clear.
I'm gonna do a little googling here too. Is it like REALLY obvious when they are cloudy? Like will they look like thick and grey? Or just NOT CLEAR? that question make sense?
They definitely have more of a fruity "bud" smell. Rather than before they had a fruity smell but you could really still smell like "sour plant" smell to them. So your right, they are definetly maturing. Woulda bee SO FUCKING SWEET to be harvesting this weekend but I dont wanna rush it. My veg tent is literally exploding tho... lol. It is actually little funny. they look fucking great. but now they all at the tops of thier cages already. Actually lemme ask you.. Would you just keep em that tall, knowing i have at LEAST one week left of them in there potentially two weeks. Or would you top them down under the top ring? I already topped a couple and now I have fucking 4 tops up there lol... loosing battle i tell you lol. (the middle, side two)



Ya, im almost POSITIVE i cut the last ones too early. I know i did actually. Seeing how these ones look right now and im still not cutting them down, ya i definitely pre cut the first run!
Here you can see the fatty's gettin held up lol



And Ya that sounds like a good plan eventually here. To go with a sealed room. Total control over the environment, sounds fucking glorious! lol. So, couple just little questions. So NO intake or exhaust in a sealed? How bout oscilating fans? Do you just like hook this room up to your houses vents for the ac and stuff or have a window unit or a portable ac? And I assume all hooked up to one of those badass control units? Man, that shit is the stuff of my dreams lol. If only I could try and ask for some of that shit for Xmas! LOL