M_EVO_LUTION ** SideMevO ** ALL THE ROADS LEAD TO ROME ** DIY LED PROJECT

Over the last few years I have had 3 driver failures out of 8 (cheapo dimmable drivers). Occasionally they also blow the LED string (I failed to add fuses). In some cases I was overloading the drivers in other cases there may have been poor soldering (660nm SPnova pita to solder). I am glad to hear that your string did not blow although it may blow if a damaged driver is reconnected. If possible it is best to test the driver on something cheap or just replace it.

Soon I will start a thread on RIU to talk about the new LEDs/ top bins now available. I posted some of the information on the DIY LED thread on seedmine but that site is like a ghost town these days. I will keep checking in good luck to you!

Right On Brother Your MeVo2 Is Kicking Out Some Major Bud.Awsome All Natural Shots

SupraSPL said:

Over the last few years I have had 3 driver failures out of 8 (cheapo dimmable drivers). Occasionally they also blow the LED string (I failed to add fuses). In some cases I was overloading the drivers in other cases there may have been poor soldering (660nm SPnova pita to solder). I am glad to hear that your string did not blow although it may blow if a damaged driver is reconnected. If possible it is best to test the driver on something cheap or just replace it.

Soon I will start a thread on RIU to talk about the new LEDs/ top bins now available. I posted some of the information on the DIY LED thread on seedmine but that site is like a ghost town these days. I will keep checking in good luck to you!

Click to expand...

If I attach my driver to a 1w LED and the LED blinks, am I to be worried? I'd like to include more information but I'm drunk,. (Being driven at 350ma)

Thanks in advance kinfolk

on your drivers you will see two values for the output-voltage.

this is the range where your driver works properly. below or above this range you see blinking leds. that means your driver operates now in the safety mode. (out of range)

example:

output:
30-80 VDC
350mA

minmum Leds for this Driver(white ones) Vf=3.2V@350mA check this for your leds

30V/3.2V=9.37.. ten white leds will be the minimum

the maxium white leds you can drive is

80V/3.2V=25.. i would go here for 24 white leds to stay always below max output voltage

more after the next ...ss

Thank you kindly for your reply! I don't think I could've asked for a more complete answer.

Sorry for threadjacking, friend. You'll have to excuse the Golden Teachers...

Hey Jubiare I hope all is well sir. I know you're a big fan of green, I myself only like it in certain situations. I was wondering if you've ever read this article that Hosebomber linked to in a few other forums?

http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/157/3/1528.full?sid=ff680d71-27f2-4166-8cd3-c17d03c265b4

See I like having Far Red in my flowering panels and green exacerbates the shade avoidance reaction that excess FR will provoke. But I was just wondering why you find it so necessary about having green in your panels, especially with all the green in most NWs? Not trying to pick a fight or prove a point, I'm just interested to hear what you have to say about green nowadays. Thanks man!

SupraSPL said:

Over the last few years I have had 3 driver failures out of 8 (cheapo dimmable drivers). Occasionally they also blow the LED string (I failed to add fuses). In some cases I was overloading the drivers in other cases there may have been poor soldering (660nm SPnova pita to solder). I am glad to hear that your string did not blow although it may blow if a damaged driver is reconnected. If possible it is best to test the driver on something cheap or just replace it.

Soon I will start a thread on RIU to talk about the new LEDs/ top bins now available. I posted some of the information on the DIY LED thread on seedmine but that site is like a ghost town these days. I will keep checking in good luck to you!

Click to expand...

yeah the driver! Tomo I'll sort it out! I get my driver off alibaba, I quite like them .. they never blown my strings so far (like the satisLED one) ... I can also have them at pretty much any mA and such (not dimmable for me). It's a shame about seedmine .... that is really the best led thread ever! Looking forward to your project, already had a look at yr thread nice one

The Dawg said:

Right On Brother Your MeVo2 Is Kicking Out Some Major Bud.Awsome All Natural Shots

Click to expand...

Thanks broDawg, there is a few nice fatty colas indeed!

guod said:

on your drivers you will see two values for the output-voltage.

this is the range where your driver works properly. below or above this range you see blinking leds. that means your driver operates now in the safety mode. (out of range)

example:

output:
30-80 VDC
350mA

minmum Leds for this Driver(white ones) Vf=3.2V@350mA check this for your leds

30V/3.2V=9.37.. ten white leds will be the minimum

the maxium white leds you can drive is

80V/3.2V=25.. i would go here for 24 white leds to stay always below max output voltage

more after the next ...ss

Click to expand...

yes just that

HiloReign said:

Thank you kindly for your reply! I don't think I could've asked for a more complete answer.

Sorry for threadjacking, friend. You'll have to excuse the Golden Teachers...

Click to expand...

Drunk night? you are excused. time to get down to your own project, learner ..... don't waste no time in extravaganzas

FranJan said:

Hey Jubiare I hope all is well sir. I know you're a big fan of green, I myself only like it in certain situations. I was wondering if you've ever read this article that Hosebomber linked to in a few other forums?

http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/157/3/1528.full?sid=ff680d71-27f2-4166-8cd3-c17d03c265b4

See I like having Far Red in my flowering panels and green exacerbates the shade avoidance reaction that excess FR will provoke. But I was just wondering why you find it so necessary about having green in your panels, especially with all the green in most NWs? Not trying to pick a fight or prove a point, I'm just interested to hear what you have to say about green nowadays. Thanks man!

Click to expand...

Hey FranJanDudey whassup!?! Big fan of green? yes I suppose I am, I mean I recognize the need for some of it! The monochromatic green I used in mevo1 was just an experiment.. as you can see there was only two greens employed! I too agree there is enough of it in the whites? I am not even studying the whole thing as much those days ... I don't really care that much? I ain't selling anything innit? who cares? I don't want to go too scientific about it. I am a practical man, very emotional actually and not an intellectual. I thought I was one.

What I have noticed though, practically ...

MJ IS NOT A VERY DEMANDING PLANT IN TERMS OF SPECTRUM (especially vegging!)

THUS, ALL THE ROADS LEAD TO ROME:

- Hans with his red/blue few deep red spectrum hitting around 1g p/w (our friend psuagro is a testimony of it)

- area51 and their no blue, white/reds/farred spectrum (the dawg etc)

- sds and his crew of whites is doing promising things one cannot deny ......

- Verdantgreen with HGL Spectrum 15% monochromatic green 10% blue the rest is red and farred, hitting and surpassing 1g p/w







nucleus, a diyer over on an other site that gets average 075g p/w with ONLY DEEP RED 660 blue (few) and NW (few)



and there is many others ...........

So,

Marijuana is not very demanding plant!!!

All the roads lead to Rome? Yes some are faster than others? Some are safer?

We don't know just yet the "best"

or anybody feel like knowing... really?

I don't even believe in a sole holy grail spectrum anymore?

I don't even care that much anymore

it's nice to see many different experiments around

take care everybody

^^^ Exactly. So many roads, so many choices. Soo many voices. Some are Seers, some are Sirens and the rest are usually Salesmen . Keep on Growing Jubiare!

thanks for the reputaiton, jubilar

must also say that with your level of understanding of this hole shit, your are the bigger one...

this is the collecting tray (liquid castings), It has some kind of stairs for the worms to get back up to the composting tray .. in case they go for a little wonder ahah!







This is the second composting tray, it will be added on top of the first one once it's filled up. The holes are for the worms to migrate from a tray to another. The boarding lit has been cut to support the added tray when you place it on top of the filled tray







This is the little guys adapting into their new home! The bedding is coco coir, shredded leaves + little zeolite, dolomite limestone and rock dust. They have been in there for 5ish days ... yesterday they had their first dose of food (aged horse manure, alfalfa, kelp). They are trying to go elsewhere but apparently that's normal during the first week



we will see what happens with those guys
happy munching (I hope)

guod said:

thanks for the reputaiton, jubilar

must also say that with your level of understanding of this hole shit, your are the bigger one...

Click to expand...

just stop being an asshole and do your study better. I rep you for being an asshole and you deserve it. You go on other diyers thread to teach shit without greeting your presence whatsoever.

You have got no idea of the real community of diyers helping each other, sharing with others, supporting each other etc.

No one would never dare to go and pretend to teach other diyers with a asshole attitude like yours, back at the time

Sometimes you don't even know what you are talking about.

How many times do I have to tell you that reds run hotter than blue/whites?

You are also convincing people less educated than you that the opposite of this apply! People less educated would think all right than, let's drive my reds super hard, or they would think what's the difference if area51 drives reds softer than 700mA, Fuck that let's go with area591 it's the same! (I mention area51 because they are the only ones that chose to drive the diodes a bit softer)

Look at bloody datasheets instead of pretending I know nothing you make yourself look ridiculous.

Look at those graphs:


Notice how AlInGap leds (red, orange, yellow) are rated to work at lower current than most InGaN parts. (white/blue) (Now don't say I know nothing coz why do you think manufacture would rate their chip at lower current than the whites/blue? It's true I know nothing, but at least I bloody read datasheets)This is pretty common. This two different tech behave different with the increased current density at chip level. While AlInGaP (reds) leds increase light output near linear with increase current, up a point, InGaN (whites/blue) leds goes losing efficiency as higher the current used (less additional light output for each next increment in current).
On the other hand, InGaN chips support very well high Tj, (they support better the heat) with relatively low losses when heating, while AlInGap leds degrades strongly with the increased Tj. (so you don't want to run the reds too hard for not degrading them? Do you get that? Thats why AlInGap leds are driven softer than InGaN.

So it is advisable to run reds not past 600mA, YES you can run them harder but don't expect them to last is long as if run softer

Now, if things are changing in the tech I am yet to see a red chip that can support tj better ..... til that day all the rest is nonsense.

just stop being an asshole and do your study better. I rep you for being an asshole and you deserve it. You go on other diyers thread to teach shit without greeting your presence whatsoever.
see your barking on the astir thread...

You have got no idea of the real community of diyers helping each other, sharing with others, supporting each other etc.
see post#24 in this thread

How many times do I have to tell you that reds run hotter than blue/whites?
endless...

Notice how AlInGap leds (red, orange, yellow) are rated to work at lower current than most InGaN parts. (white/blue) (Now don't say I know nothing coz why do you think manufacture would rate their chip at lower current than the whites/blue? It's true I know nothing, but at least I bloody read datasheets)This is pretty common. This two different tech behave different with the increased current density at chip level. While AlInGaP (reds) leds increase light output near linear with increase current, up a point, InGaN (whites/blue) leds goes losing efficiency as higher the current used (less additional light output for each next increment in current).
On the other hand, InGaN chips support very well high Tj, (they support better the heat) with relatively low losses when heating, while AlInGap leds degrades strongly with the increased Tj. (so you don't want to run the reds too hard for not degrading them? Do you get that? Thats why AlInGap leds are driven softer than InGaN.

understand active cooling, if i can control the temp. of the leds i can drive them harder.
whitout temp. control(passiv) we have a higher temp. on the heatsink and the red Leds loose faster than the blue/white ones in output levels...>..spectrum shift to more blue

Naaaaa my friend, active or not active tj has to do what it does.. the active cooling will help for sure but if your soucepan is under full heating plate, you can cool that off as much as you like but you are generating it at the source

Passive cooling is the greatest choice but what is more important, active or passive, you shouldn't exceed the physical characteristics of the body itself. Preferably you won't stress it for a slightly increase of efficiency as opposed to a consistent and irreversible degradation of the chip.

Just add a few more chips and drive the lot softer... at least until they improve the tech. Preferably.

You mentioned knna a few times, you also seem quite keen on the whole shit.. why don't you re-read the whole of his threads so we can all move forward?

In the end I haven't discovered the hot water, he did

Merry Chrimbo Brother Jubiare