Your garden looks greatThe concept here is only going to reduce yields. Container plants need a good dry cycle. Water/ feed once to about 20% runoff and you are good. Then let the pots dry out at least 3/4 the way down. It should be very light. This washes out excess salts the soil won't hold and allows oxygen to pass through the roots. Plants don't grow roots to search if the pots are wet. They don't have to. It's easily available where they are. They search for water and nutrients and grow when the pot is more dry.
Also. Most water, nute, potting soil combinations require no ph adjustment. The ph of your water is meaningless to the soil. The lime and peat are much stronger buffers and will change the ph of all but harder water which if alkaline enough will require possible acidifying. Likely no problem to 250 ppm or .5 ec for source water.
When I had yellowing and burning leaves even when teducing nute strength I called the breeder of my seeds for help. First thing he asked was if I was using ph down continually. It was acidifying my soil. My well water needs no adjustment. I stopped. Plants went nice and green right away.
It is important to know why things happen. Not follow instructions blindly.
If you want to search old information here I highly recommend uncle Ben threads. His threads have excellent useful actual gardening knowledge.
I have been a member of RM3's website. He invited me there himself. I went to read his "books" he strongly advertises. There are no books. They are just Internet forum threads of his opinion. Problem is plants don't actually follow his views of nature. And science doesn't agree with most of the rest of his concepts. His garden pics he won't show here for a reason. It is not impressive. He crops pics to look good here. And he. Gerry pics articles and never gives the original author credit. Ignoring his teachings and reading about greenhouse production and gardening books is a really good idea.
Here is a pic of my garden a couple nights ago for credibility. It really bothers me when a perpetual noob like Rm3 is given false credibility. There is too much money and time at stake in what we do to listen to wanna be's with a personal agenda to sell seeds and grow lights.
Look to a successful professional with results like you are looking for. I chose Ed Rosenthal to get started. Excellent info in this book. Here are 2 formats free.
http://www.resonant.org/text/marijuana_growers_guide.html
http://txtbreed.wiredcave.nl/whiteroom/herb/TheMarijuanaGrowersGuide.pdf
This is all only as difficult as we make it. But there are no shortcuts or magic lights or additives like he wants us to believe. Those things bring diminishing returns.
I have only been gardening for 3 years. I never even watered a houseplant before this. It just is t as hard as everyone wants to make it. This garden is in ocean forest and some perlite and is only fed Botanicare Pure Blend Pro grow in flower as needed.
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Your garden looks great
Having said that, stop dissing people who want to try something new, or people who have found something that works for them. Unless you have side by side data of yourself growing clones doing one technique versus another, don't come out and tell people they're wrong based on this theory or that. If make it rain is working for people, let them do it. There's a million right ways to grow pot, and only a few wrong ones.
You offered your perspective, however truthful you find it to be. You haven't posted any grows or data based on side by side comparisons to the MIR method. Until you can back up what you're saying, don't hate on someone else, or bash someone else. You don't have to like RM3, but if people are using his technique with success, why hate on it? Unless you can prove diminishing growth or yield, you're just stating an opinion.Grow anyway you want and believe anyone you want. I only offered the truth.
You must be invested huh.You offered your perspective, however truthful you find it to be. You haven't posted any grows or data based on side by side comparisons to the MIR method. Until you can back up what you're saying, don't hate on someone else, or bash someone else. You don't have to like RM3, but if people are using his technique with success, why hate on it? Unless you can prove diminishing growth or yield, you're just stating an opinion.
Absolutely not, just tired of people on here, and on the net in general, stating opinions as facts without evidence. You want to offer an opinion, fine, but stop touting it as fact.You must be invested huh.
i offered a respected well know book in a free PDF and a free link to justify anything I have said. And I have shown a successful garden using the standard methods.Absolutely not, just tired of people on here, and on the net in general, stating opinions as facts without evidence. You want to offer an opinion, fine, but stop touting it as fact.
That pdf is not a side by side using new methods like I said. Learn to read.i offered a respected well know book in a free PDF and a free link to justify anything I have said. And I have shown a successful garden using the standard methods.
you are the only one just talking about your opinion. You are welcome to not respond. But I feel you will not stop.
Side by sides without plenty of data is just the growers opinion. Rm3 has no data to prove anything. Like I said. You are an obvious noob with no gardening knowledge.That pdf is not a side by side using new methods like I said. Learn to read.
Like I said you haven't shown anything and are making claims. I am not making claims. That is my whole point here, dude.Side by sides without plenty of data is just the growers opinion. Rm3 has no data to prove anything. Like I said. You are an obvious noob with no gardening knowledge.
So I try to help one again with quality information on an open discussion forum.
The book from ed Rosenthal is filled with data and proofs about light nutes and techniques.
Rm3 and his whole website don't even have a properly conducted side by side.
Have you read any of it? RM3's fantasy or any actual marijuana testing? No. But I have. And o have tried every hand watering technique.
You basically argue with no knowledge about any of this. Try growing a healthy plant for yourself and water it how you want.
it is obvious you want to be told what to do rather than read why.
I run a medical perpetual and the meds are proven to help illness. Even serious illness.
The only way that can happen is growing a plant healthy through the whole cycle and it has to have the right genetics.
I will show you once more. What a properly watered plant grown to its potential looks like. Then go back to the riddler section and have any make it rainers show you a better indoor plant. I already know that no one following those techniques has anything like this growing. Overwatering stunts plants. It's a pretty simple fact.
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Now unless you have a contribution to this discussion that is relevant. Go away. I am proving a good long dry cycle grows better plants to their potential. What this thread is asking is how to overwater and ovefeed. I tried to help with proof and results.
Thanks for posting. You should read books instead though.
You haven't made any point relevant to his discussion. You don't know why or if the mir technique works. If you bother reading. The understanding will come.Like I said you haven't shown anything and are making claims. I am not making claims. That is my whole point here, dude.
At least read any basic gardening or horticulture guide or even the ed Rosenthal book I linked in this thread for an actual understanding of how plants work. Because what you wrote here is absolutely nothing like how they uptake nutes or water outside on soil or inside in any medium.I've used this technique many, many times... Although I was skeptical at first, and downright scared when I saw the plants drooping (drowning), the method produces ridiculously vigorous growth and totally helps at the end when you flush.
If you think about it, it's actually much closer to a natural watering schedule... It never really rains every other day, and when it does rain it's never in exact amounts! When it rains, it pours... And the plant protects itself by shutting down water uptake until the saturation dissipates. Roots aren't only for nutrient/water uptake, they also feed the plant oxygen! When the soil is saturated, the spaces in the soil (where air is) are replaced by liquid. The plant shuts down until it feels like it can breathe again. That's when you nute it up. The roots are starving for air and water, so when the uptake begins again the plant really utilizes all the nutrients it can find. It's almost like when a bear comes out of hibernation, all skinny and hungry. The first thing it wants to do is eat something! Your plant is the same way...
You offered your opinion of the truth Med.You offered your perspective, however truthful you find it to be. You haven't posted any grows or data based on side by side comparisons to the MIR method. Until you can back up what you're saying, don't hate on someone else, or bash someone else. You don't have to like RM3, but if people are using his technique with success, why hate on it? Unless you can prove diminishing growth or yield, you're just stating an opinion.
Not all container growing needs this wet/dry cycle you speak of. When I used salt based nutes, I did it this way.The concept here is only going to reduce yields. Container plants need a good dry cycle. Water/ feed once to about 20% runoff and you are good. Then let the pots dry out at least 3/4 the way down. It should be very light. This washes out excess salts the soil won't hold and allows oxygen to pass through the roots. Plants don't grow roots to search if the pots are wet. They don't have to. It's easily available where they are. They search for water and nutrients and grow when the pot is more dry.
Also. Most water, nute, potting soil combinations require no ph adjustment. The ph of your water is meaningless to the soil. The lime and peat are much stronger buffers and will change the ph of all but harder water which if alkaline enough will require possible acidifying. Likely no problem to 250 ppm or .5 ec for source water.
When I had yellowing and burning leaves even when teducing nute strength I called the breeder of my seeds for help. First thing he asked was if I was using ph down continually. It was acidifying my soil. My well water needs no adjustment. I stopped. Plants went nice and green right away.
It is important to know why things happen. Not follow instructions blindly.
If you want to search old information here I highly recommend uncle Ben threads. His threads have excellent useful actual gardening knowledge.
I have been a member of RM3's website. He invited me there himself. I went to read his "books" he strongly advertises. There are no books. They are just Internet forum threads of his opinion. Problem is plants don't actually follow his views of nature. And science doesn't agree with most of the rest of his concepts. His garden pics he won't show here for a reason. It is not impressive. He crops pics to look good here. And he. Gerry pics articles and never gives the original author credit. Ignoring his teachings and reading about greenhouse production and gardening books is a really good idea.
Here is a pic of my garden a couple nights ago for credibility. It really bothers me when a perpetual noob like Rm3 is given false credibility. There is too much money and time at stake in what we do to listen to wanna be's with a personal agenda to sell seeds and grow lights.
Look to a successful professional with results like you are looking for. I chose Ed Rosenthal to get started. Excellent info in this book. Here are 2 formats free.
http://www.resonant.org/text/marijuana_growers_guide.html
http://txtbreed.wiredcave.nl/whiteroom/herb/TheMarijuanaGrowersGuide.pdf
This is all only as difficult as we make it. But there are no shortcuts or magic lights or additives like he wants us to believe. Those things bring diminishing returns.
I have only been gardening for 3 years. I never even watered a houseplant before this. It just is t as hard as everyone wants to make it. This garden is in ocean forest and some perlite and is only fed Botanicare Pure Blend Pro grow in flower as needed.
View attachment 3898704