Manifolding (Menorah'n) Plants in a GreenHouse

My recipe:
~ Jacks Veg and Bloom ratio: (1) TBL per (2) gal H2o = 50% (full-strength) ~
~ (1/2) tsp per (1) gal. H2o = 25% (half-strength - for 5-7 day old seedlings) ~

SEEDS
Float the seeds in water-jigger to see if any drop or float overnight. [Note which ones drop on root riot cube by blue label to track it for potency vs. floaters. Most of my (10 ) seeds floated, one dropped to the bottom. They all sprouted, but one.]
Soak root riot cubes in Life (1.85 mls per pint) for at least 4-hrs. Use a pencil point to make the r/r cube seed-hole larger. Place the seed in the hole with tweezers, and cover the hole with a pinch of r/r material.
Fill the channels of the SuperSprouter tray with Life (1.85mls) per pint H2o.
Spray the lid interior and place in the clone tent with the fixture laying on top of the clear cover with the temp/humidity monitor blue -taped to the leading corner.

TRANSPLANTING CLONES & SEEDLINGS TO SOLO CUPS

~ Jacks Veg. 20-20-20: (1.5) tsp per (1) gal. = 25% (1/2 strength)
Transplanting r/r cubes to Solo cups.
Mix Kelloggs Raise-Bed with water in a large bin, add some perlite down a crease in the middle. Mix.
Use a clear cup inside a red cup. Add a light layer of perlite in the red cup for drainage. Use a spent riot cube with a pencil in it as a mold. Lift the mold and add Mykos grains for root development. Add the cube sprout and flood with plain H2o.
Solo cups will sit in boxes on plant trailer fed half-strength for two weeks, and brought into the clone-tent with the light fixture wired to the ceiling on an 18/6 light schedule. Then change the nutes to full strength (50%) (1.5 tsp) per (1) gal. H2o.

TRANSPLANTING CLONES TO (1) GAL. PLASTIC

Water plants the night before.
Mix Kelloggs and water in blue bin. Add perlite. Use an empty 1-gal plastic pot as a mold. Tamp the soil at the bottom to keep it from falling out of drain slots. Add more soil evenly around the mold and finger-tamp light force. Remove the mold and sprinkle Mykos root stimulate around the bottom. Roots must touch it Full watering w/ 20-20-20 until significant run-off. Keep plants in 1-gal plastic until plants are hearty for up canning to 7-gal fabric.

TRANSPLANTING TO 7-GAL FABRIC Jacks Veg & Bloom for 3-gal can = (1) TBL + (1.5) tsp

When up-canning lift the pot before watering to get a feel for when hydration is necessary. Water the 1-gal the night before. Use a (1) gallon plastic as a mold. Tamp the soil around the bottom so the fabric sits straight.
Center the 1-gal and medium tamp around the mold. Remove the mold and add Mykos sprinkled around the bottom. Crush the plastic pot on 4-sides before turning upside down. Keep your arm well above the fabric pot so the plant enters the hole straight-on.

SYPHONJET & DRAMM WAND Jacks Veg & Bloom ( TBL per (1) gal. Milk Jug

Mix up nute concentrate using warm or hot water and fill the jug 3/4 full. Add ( TBL of Jacks and shake vigorously. Check bottom for residue, then fill the jug with tap water. No Ph necessary.
Turn the blue check valve on to the brass press. regulator. Install the assembly on the hose bib. Straighten the black hose. Connect the black hose to the Syphonjet wand, then on to the blue plastic check valve. Make sure that the pressure regulator is set to no more than 40 psi. Always put the Syphonjet control lever in full ON mode for suction to work properly.

CHEMICALS Kontos (1.25 ml) per (1) gal. + 1/2 TBL Jacks/ or
(2.5ml) Kontos + (1) TBL Jacks per (2) gal. H20
( ml) Kontos + (1) TBL Jacks + (1.5) tsp per (3) gal H2o
Highly suggest that no Miticides (3-In-1, or TetraSan) on developed buds regardless of what the label says.
During the Veg. cycle, just before up canning to the 7-gal fabric, start-off with one dose of Kontos as a drench miticide, which will residuallly take down any mite eggs and nymphs, without spraying. Kontos also works for aphids.. The one dose will last for about 4-5 weeks.
TetraSan Mix: (1) tsp per gal. (128 oz.) H2o
(1/2 tsp) per 1/2 gal. (64 oz.)
(1/4 tsp) per Qt. (32 oz,)
After that, use Tetrasan (a translaminar) which residually takes down any eggs or nymphs, in conjunction with Abamectin and/or Sirocco (doyourownpestcontrol.com)
3-In-1 should be used in Veg until there are cotton-puff budlets.
Then spray one last time with TetraSan (1) tsp per (1) gal. H20.
Being a translaminar miticide, the residual effect should last about 4-weeks and maybe 5 weeks at the longest. (Note: You can mix TetraSan with Cease when topical spraying.)
TetraSan can be sprayed every 2-weeks.

KONTOS - should only be used twice on a crop. Water by hand (Blue 3-gal)
Kontos = (1ml) per (1) gal. H2o
+ (1/2 TBL) Jacks = (1-3/4 tsp)(1) gal. H2o
Try and save to Kontos until closer to one month from harvest.

After heavy bud-set and flowering has initiated, At that point, 4-5 weeks later, return to using Kontos (1 or 1.25 mms per gal. H2o) again for the remainder of the flower cycle, thus obviating any need to spray anything on the buds - other than Cease for botrytis and PM. If need be, use the Kontos two days in a row to ensure all parts of the plant have absorbed the Kontos on a systemic level which should last until real close to harvest time.
If necessary, you can use Kontos again about 4-weeks later for the Sativa hybrids to finish. (Note: You can mix the Kontos with Jacks finisher [Aqua-Gold] when drenching).


AQUA-GOLD FINISHER DRENCH Shaken then mixed: TetraSan = 1/4 tsp per Qt. H2o
BT = (1) tsp (5mls) per Qt. H2o
or, Spinosad = (1)TBL per Qt. H2o
Cease = (7.5mls) [er Qt. H2o

1st week flower: Early AM. Drench with Jacks AquaGold Finisher.
Then later combine TetraSan/Spinosad or BT (caterpillars) and Cease for a both leaf sides drench spray. I can spray once more in early budlets. Then wait for Kontos, and drench (twice) a day apart, before harvest.
Hand Watering
There are two ratios for AquaGold: One is for the AquaGold and the for the Epsom Salts.
~ (3/4) tsp of AquaGold, and (1) tsp of Epsom Salts per gal. of H2o.~
Syphonjet
Use (1/4) cup of AquaGold, and (1/3) cup [(5.333) TBLS] Epsom Salts. [(4) TBL AquaGold and (5.333TBL) Epsom Salts.]
Use hot water to mix and shake vigorously numerous times. Don’t worry about the residue. When the water cools the AquaGold and Epsom salts will fall out of suspension. Put the jug out in the sun to heat-up the water an shake vigorously again - before watering with the Syphonjet.
If you have to use the 20-20-20 to green the plants up because the tricks haven’t colored, then only do it once.
MILSTOP
Using Cease for PM is good, but not the final answer. The Milstop is also good, but again, not the final answer. There are fungicides that will stop PM in it’s tracks, but we cannot use them without destroying the gals or possibly our lungs (i.e; Eagle 20). It’s tricky. This requires regular applications of Cease and MIlstop.
One aspect of Milstop is that is raises the pH of the solution big time, but most miticides need to be applied with a neutral, or lower pH water to get the best bang for the buck. As the pH rises, the half-life of most miticides is reduced dramatically.
Both PM and Botrytis do not like an alkaline environment, and the use of Milstop will create an inhospitable environment by raising the pH.
The small volume use rate is: (1) TBS per gal. H2o. Once the package is open, keep it in a high grade Ziplock bag in order to keep it dry. Do Not store in the fridge. A 5lb. package was $87. with free shipping from Evergreen.

Here's the species @ 3-wks into bloom with Jacks 10-30-20. Now defoliated for the second time (over a one week period). Extra Fan leaves can be clipped easily later on.
"If the plant's getting bushy, defoliate again about week 3 into flowering, by removing the bigger fan leaves, and all the lower growth that's in major shadow. In general, they recommend defoliating lightly during the flowering stage after the buds have already formed, since you can always take more leaves away, but you can't put them back. No more defoliating after week 3 of flowering. You may prune away any small growth that doesn't get light, as well as big fan leaves that block bud sites and can't be tucked away". - GWeasy

A tip once read, said that after the 2nd (bloom) defoliation, you shouldn't be able to see clearly through the branches. I removed the growth tips, but left the fan leaves, in large part, and removed all small growth-tips below the 2nd or 3rd nodes on each branch - and red-wire trained some of them to grow outside the cage, but near the grid, so that buds and leaves can live on both sides without crowding.
I'll be super-cropping some tops no doubt, with 7-wks to go. I've cut and Gooped several more 6 x 12 holes with no structural failures or sways. Cut 6x12 holes as needed. These cages can be re-used by removing only the bottom perimeter staple-nails.
The (import) fences spot-welds break, but whole sections of wire-surround can be Gooped to strengthen. Suggestions or criticisms are always welcomed.
The pests have been controlled using only organic, Ecovia 3-In-One (labeled for "cannabis").
Two (2) leaves on the plant (left) have grasshopper bites. No aphids, no moths, no caterpillars, no grasshoppa..
(6) 0.23A clip-fans (exclusive to Bed, Bath & Beyond) move air 24/7. Four at each bottom corner pointed upwards, and two, across the middle ceiling from each other, and pointed downward.
The lowest amp draw available: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/6-inch-clip-fan/1043708116?skuId=43708116

Foam-wire supports the stalks.
The most go-to access opening is one that has one support wire remaining in the middle of 6 open panels.

Dirtman Dan was the first person I saw that did it on YouTube... They deleted his account on there, but his plants were sweet and they were stealth... Nfhiggs BROKE all of his branches and his plant never stopped growing!!! It bushed out like crazy!!! Ive got this plant that's a mystery seed and has been growing for over 2 months now and hasnt shown a sign of what it is... I am about to cut off all the branches except for 4 of them and put it outside cause theres no room for unknown entities in my tent...

Here's some foam-wire support to consider, before the bud-weight sets in.

hydra-glide said:

AQUA-GOLD FINISHER DRENCH Shaken then mixed: TetraSan = 1/4 tsp per Qt. H2o
BT = (1) tsp (5mls) per Qt. H2o
or, Spinosad = (1)TBL per Qt. H2o
Cease = (7.5mls) [er Qt. H2o

Click to expand...

Correction here. What I meant to impart was, AQUA-GOLD FINISHER DRENCH can be mixed with (systemic) Kontos for feeding and systemic pest control.
•••••••••••
For Topical spraying-combo (all water-based)
TetraSan mix-ratio is:
1/4 tsp per Qt. H2o
BT mix ratio is:
(1) tsp (5mls) per Qt. H2o
or instead,
Spinosad mix ratio:
(1)TBL per Qt. H2o
Cease = (7.5mls) per Qt. H2o

WHEN TO START USING AQUA-GOLD FINISHER NUTES:
When to start using the AquaGold Finisher? The answer is going to be a guesstulation (calculated guess). Last year, I started using AquaGold as soon as I flipped to a 12/12 schedule. Strain depending, it will be different. For Indica, one has count 60-65 days backwards from the estimated harvest date. For Sativa's, or Sativa dominant gals, I would suggest 90-120 days from your projected harvest date.
It's a SWAG. (Scientific Wild-Assed Guess)
Start too early, your fan leafs will turn yellow way before it is time to harvest. If so, you can give them a boost of Jack's 20-20-20 to green them up (one feeding), and help them to grow bigger, should you so desire. If you start too late, the fan leafs will not turn yellow before harvest.
It'a suggested that as soon as you have cotton puffs of budlets, switch over to the AquaGold Finisher. - farmer

Mine are beginning to form pre-buds, with spiky appendages growing just below the branch nodes,18-days from the 12/12 flip. There's curling white feathers emerging now, I just can't get a close-up pic that's clear.
I'll continue to use Jacks 10-30-20 until I see budlet puffs everywhere, then I'll switch to Jack's AquaGold Finisher to eventually leaf-yellow as the trichs turn 20% amber.
I sprayed Tetra San miticide/ovidcide, and it;s good for 4-5 weeks, and I combined Cease fungi-maintenance with the Tetra San. Both are water-based. Shake continually when spraying.
I also found out my biggest plant was male, yesterday and removed it. It had begun developing clumps of "grapes" and I carefully removed it far away, whacked the stem and double-bagged to the lidded-trash can.
Here's another pic of a clone from that male, now isolated from the flock. Got tossed too.

Four weeks from flip the first budlets appear. I can use TetraSan topical one more time (at two week intervals) which kills mites and aphids on both sides of the leaf if aphids appear. Or, I can wait until mid-September when the 4-5 week lasting power of TetraSan expires, and drench twice with Kontos, the systemic killer. To each of these water-based insecticides I can add Spinosad or the more powerful BT for moth eggs/caterpillars. I spray Bud-rot or PM deterrent twice a week alternating Cease and Milstop, but combining Spinosad or BT with both, so each bud-rot deterrent gets an additional dose of bug-hopper killer. I cut huge holes out of the cages, goop-ed the raw wire-ends and I'll use the cages next season. I like tying the branches close to the cage, and using the foam-wire stand-offs to keep the tops centered and sunlit. Fun hobby growing medicine. Labor intensive for sure.

I started adding Epsom Salts (1 tsp/gal H2o) when I began using Jack's Aqua Gold Finisher, which was last week when the first flower-buttons appeared, 7-days ago. I'll stop using the trich-stacker (sulfur) Epsom at week 4 of Flower.
Note: According to my farming almanac "Bloom" was the period beginning on the first day of 12/12 (4 wks ago). When the first "buttons" appear en mass, then the "Flower" cycle begins. These have been in Flower for 1 wk.
4-5 wks from now, I'll use systemic Kontos as a drench for mites and aphids, twice, to ensure saturation, and continue Cease and Milstop (both fight Botrytis bud-rot) w/ either Spinosad or BT for moth/caterpillar/grasshopper control until harvest. Cease can be used up to day of harvest. Note: Milstop raises the pH and cuts BT or Spinosad effectiveness by half.
3-weeks ahead, I'll stop the Epsom Salts.

This is an outdoor grow right? With natural light hours?

Are you are in some strange time warp? Where I'm at {on earth} the Fall Equinox is still September 22nd. Outdoors no one even thinks about from the flip or 12/12. The strain will decide what light hours it takes to flower.

Maybe a closer inspection after cut and paste is in order.

Outdoor as of July 22. when our latitude received only 13hr. 59 minutes of daylight. They were on 18/6 in a tent before that, and received their 60-days of veg. by July 21. They went into the greenhouse then, and stayed on bloom nutes until they started budding. Putting them outdoor in the greenhouse after less than 14 hrs. daylight assured me of not reverting back to veg, is my story.

hydra-glide said:

Outdoor as of July 22. when our latitude received only 13hr. 59 minutes of daylight. They were on 18/6 in a tent before that, and received their 60-days of veg. by July 21. They went into the greenhouse then, and stayed on bloom nutes until they started budding. Putting them outdoor in the greenhouse after less than 14 hrs. daylight assured me of not reverting back to veg, is my story.

Click to expand...

I was thinking you did a traditional outdoor veg. Didn't realize you went straight into flower when they were put out. I think I'm figuring it out. All the from the flip and 12/12 talk was confusing me. But I guess from 18 hours down to 14 is a bit flippish.

My longest day is 14 hours 7 minutes, so I have to be real careful of my genetics. I had several flower all summer long. If I had had your green house, all would have been great. Sadly they were in the rain most days.


As a rule of thumb, I try to keep using veg food for 1st three weeks of flower. {flower to me is when I see buds starting to form} 50/50 veg and bloom for 2nd 3 weeks of flower. Then bloom food the rest of the way. I use the 2-10-10 from the local garden shop. Kind of high at a buck a pound, but what are you going to do?

Correction when I suggested one feeding of 10-30-20 bloom nutes, during flower to "green them up" if leaves start turning yellow early. The correct nutes are 20-20-20 veg, and only do this once". - farmer
•
Last Stand for Tetra San (mites and aphids, translaminar killer)
These flowers are at 3 weeks since white pistils appeared. It could be detrimental to spray Tetra San on the flowers once they've become full buds. Two weeks ago was the first application of Tetra San/Spinosad/Cease.
This was a combo application of Cease, BT, and Tetra San. All water-based. I mix a half-gallon, in the one gallon HDX pump bottle. PPE suit, canister vapor mask, 9mm nitrile gloves (harbor freight), and eyewear.
No mites or aphids for at least 4, maybe 5 weeks. 4-weeks from now I'll use Kontos as a drench (two days in a row) and continue the aphid and mite protection non-stop until harvest. Cease and Kontos are 0-harvest. Spray the food stuffs in the morning, eat them for dinner.

Jacks 7-15-30 Aqua Gold Finisher • shipped price • two-day priority mail
https://www.martinsproducesupplies.com/fertilizer/jacks-7-15-30
•••••••••••••
Note: Milstop is also 0-Harvest, so like Cease, application until day of harvest. All compatible to organic growing.
••••••••••••••
3rd week flower defoliation. All the thick stemmed fan leaves were removed after drench watering. Most notable, the fan leaves at the top of the colas. The gaps left from fan leaf removal should fill with flower. Here's some dope on defoliation:
Under Picture Proof
https://www.growweedeasy.com/defoliation/#picture-proof-flowering

The plants are producing leaves like mad now, thinking they've been damaged by animals or storms after the 3rd week flower defoliation. But, will those sun exposed bud-flowers fill in those empty spaces over the next 7 weeks? I have two different types of sativa's, one more lime green and spindly than the other, both Mauritius-Ethiopian with different genetics. Time will tell.


This is a tall riser I crushed 360-degrees with a pair of pliers that had two layers of blue tape stuck to each jaw. No harm done to the skin. These top risers were hard-walled, and when crushed felt hollow. The tops stalled for about an hour, drooping a little, but within three hours they were reaching for the roof.
I'm turning the superCropped limbs in towards the center of the GH so they'll send risers to the peak of the roof, and will soon quit rotating the plants on their caster bases.

At four weeks in flower, after a Tetra San translaminar topical leaf spraying 3-weeks ago, I've drenched twice with Kontos (1.5mls per gal.). The Tetra San will eliminate mites and aphids for 4-5 weeks. I still had at least another week of Tetra San protection coming, but with the buds progressing it's not safe to spray Tetra San on developed buds. So, needing the same 24/7 mite and aphid protection, I've turned the safe systemic Kontos. Kontos needs to be hand-watered.
I've poured measured gallons into the blue watering cans. First mixing 3.75 mls of Kontos with a 1/4-filled watering can of water. Then add more water to the can until half-full. Then add your powdered nutes (Jacks Aqua Gold,), then your crystal-stacking Epsom Salts (1-tsp per gallon), and fill to the 3-gallon mark.
For double-drenching 6-plants, you'll need a total of 10-gallons (3, 3-gallon watering cans, plus a one-gallon mix to finish the drench). Drench them two days in a row. You'll only need to topical spray with BT or Spinosad for grasshoppers and moths/eggs, caterpillars, but you won't need to check your leaves for mites or aphids for weeks. Big time saver. The Kontos last for 4-5 weeks. I have 6-weeks left till harvest, so I can use Kontos again in 4-weeks. Best shipped price: https://www.domyown.com/kontos-sc-insecticide-miticide-p-4523.html

Note: I never use silica, cal-mag, budswel, snow, or Ph my water ever because Jacks doesn't care what the Ph is. Jack's equalizes everything and my plants are always deep green and healthy. Jack's is a non-organic plant thrive and the powdered equivalent of success. Less chemicals. Is there anyone here who Jacks has betrayed?

[QUOT Note: I never use silica, cal-mag,budswel, snow, or Ph my water everbecause Jacks doesn't care what the Ph is. Jack's equalizes everything and my plants are always deep green andhealthy. Jack's is a non-organic plant god, that can not be denied. Jacks is the powdered equivalent of Jesus. Jack's will save your gardening soul. QUOTE]

and this is where I stop following this thread....

ganga gurl420 said:

Jesus

Click to expand...

The greatest alcohol enabler of all time, imo.

At the end of their 4th week I've removed all of the fan leaves. My theory is that creating more grow-room between the nodes by removing the fan leaves, will allow the buds to grow and fill the open spaces. Removing the fan leaves also removed a gob of Tetra San protected leaves, but that's when the Kontos takes over the mite and aphid protections. The majority of leaves left on the plants have trichome dusting's.

They'll be no more fan leaf removal, except when broad leaves are stifling sun exposure. This will either be a large crop, or a small crop. These limbs might turn into solid colas. Two different species of plants. Wispy on the left, and more solid on the right.
I'll add (1) tsp of Epsom Salts to Jacks Aqua-Gold for another week and stop E.S. at the end of this 5th week, since my Indian Council of Pauma Valley has said, "Any new trich-glands formed on calyxes after 5 weeks, will not have time to fully ripen".

The GWE article's author said to remove all fan leaves, especially those at the top of the developing colas, if they shade the buds below.
https://www.growweedeasy.com/defoliation/#picture-proof-flowering
Where there were fan leaves shading nothing, I left them. Watering is easier than with leafy plants. I like being able to stand-up while trimming fan leaves. Having the cages moveable on 2" caster's, and cutting huge 6 panel x 6 panel access holes on opposite sides of the cage, from a watering-level, to mid-section, to top-level, is a do for me next season, if these stalks fatten-up. They're starting to look like cola-bats. Just what I've always wanted, less leaf to deal with at harvest.