Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
The plants ended up six and a half feet tall?! I only grow mine to six feet...

Seriously, do you think it was lighting that made them stretch or was it growing style?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
it was me waiting and waiting to find time to build the light before I flowered them. i started them super tall . not intentional, but I had to roll with it.
Gotcha. I'm planning to vert ScrOG the shit out of my plants just before putting them in front of the wall o' COBs, and I'm trying to work out the canopy.

What would you say is an ideal COB to canopy distance? I'm currently planning to run 80 degree lenses, I'm sure that makes a difference.
 

nogod_

Well-Known Member
There's another comparison I'd like to see......

Up front cost. Seems like what is scaring folks away from copying this is how much it costs to get a project like this off the ground and how long it will take to see a reasonable ROI.

Are you sticking with this setup?

You are awesome, sir. Sad that SDS waned when you waxed...would have loved to see my two favorite posters under one roof.

Keep it up!

Harvest Update: cxb3590@700ma
I don't want to be one of those people that promote everything they do as god's gift. So let me say this first: I chose a strain (sin city: wht nightmare x bd) that I thought was going to be a winner. As it turns out, of the 7 different phenotypes flowered in this run, all of them seem to be very blue dream dominate. So I ended up producing ALOT of mid shelf cannabis.
With that said, the alien blues, tangerine power, and payday were consistent with the quality that I expect and have produced under other lighting setups.
* also, these plants ended up at around 78" tall! so anything below the 24" mark that was not lollipopped up was pretty much larf.

here is a drawing of my garden comparing my last yield from cxa3070 to this yield with the cxb3590. it has all the metrics I could think of. I am working on the video and photos now, so I will have a more detailed explanation there and have attempted to present bullet proof documentation to back up my claims. cheers.

View attachment 3565480
 

PDX Joe

Well-Known Member
hey brother, welcome to the diy community. elg100-c1400 will run exactly 2 cxb's. great choice and utilization of the driver. here is a down and dirty wiring diagram, just subtract 2 cobs obviously. and disregard the cob holder model #
I have links to useful items for installation on page 15 post #290 of this thread.
View attachment 3563299
Hey Growmau5,

I've been keeping up with your COB build videos and of course you're getting a lot of props over on The Dude Grows. Anyway, I'm working on my own COB grow light and have a quick question. Should one wire an inline fuse between the LED driver and LEDs? I saw someone mention this in one of the threads. Or should one install a fuse where the AC power cord comes into the AC terminal block/ splitter? Or is a fuse even really necessary? I will be running 4 CXB3590 in series off of one HLG185H-C1400. The COBs will be attached to 4 Alpine 64 Plus and run with a Mean Well APV 12-12.

Thanks!
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
There's another comparison I'd like to see......

Up front cost. Seems like what is scaring folks away from copying this is how much it costs to get a project like this off the ground and how long it will take to see a reasonable ROI.

Are you sticking with this setup?

You are awesome, sir. Sad that SDS waned when you waxed...would have loved to see my two favorite posters under one roof.

Keep it up!
Thanks nogod_ that really means alot, I enjoy your posts as well. I have never thought of myself as a cheap guy, but I do try to watch my budget. My A-hole puckered up something fierce when I got my quote back from Jerry. Coming up with $2600-2700 for this setup all at once hurt me for a while. As in PBJs for dinner for a month, lol.

As far as ROI, it's going to be so variable based on state, market, etc. It made sense for me based on my city's price per KWH and other economic factors.

And what everyone wants to know. am i happy at 700ma, and am I going to stay there? the short answer is, not enough data to make that call based on one good run.
my current strains are just ok IMO, I don't think I would cut it in a competitive market. Let me see how this second run goes with better genetics like Exotic's Cherry cream pie. I think I will be happier with 1.2 gpw of top shelf than a shit load of mids like I just grew. But that is my fault for running that strain, not the light or the drive current's fault.
cheers
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
Hey Growmau5,

I've been keeping up with your COB build videos and of course you're getting a lot of props over on The Dude Grows. Anyway, I'm working on my own COB grow light and have a quick question. Should one wire an inline fuse between the LED driver and LEDs? I saw someone mention this in one of the threads. Or should one install a fuse where the AC power cord comes into the AC terminal block/ splitter? Or is a fuse even really necessary? I will be running 4 CXB3590 in series off of one HLG185H-C1400. The COBs will be attached to 4 Alpine 64 Plus and run with a Mean Well APV 12-12.

Thanks!
Hey Joe, the fuse idea is more for people running parallel wiring configs, I personally don't worry about it on the AC or DC side. Meanwell drivers have several safe guards to protect against shorts. But safety is always a good idea, esp when using CPU coolers that are highly dependent on its fan operating. I would suggest a thermal switch inline.

Can anyone ( @robincnn ) direct Joe to the thread where they were talking about thermal switches? I have never actually installed one, I am ashamed to say.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Hey Joe, the fuse idea is more for people running parallel wiring configs, I personally don't worry about it on the AC or DC side. Meanwell drivers have several safe guards to protect against shorts. But safety is always a good idea, esp when using CPU coolers that are highly dependent on its fan operating. I would suggest a thermal switch inline.

Can anyone ( @robincnn ) direct Joe to the thread where they were talking about thermal switches? I have never actually installed one, I am ashamed to say.


http://rollitup.org/t/failsafe-for-fan-cooling.873706/
 

PDX Joe

Well-Known Member
Hey Joe, the fuse idea is more for people running parallel wiring configs, I personally don't worry about it on the AC or DC side. Meanwell drivers have several safe guards to protect against shorts. But safety is always a good idea, esp when using CPU coolers that are highly dependent on its fan operating. I would suggest a thermal switch inline.

Can anyone ( @robincnn ) direct Joe to the thread where they were talking about thermal switches? I have never actually installed one, I am ashamed to say.
Thanks for the help!
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
@PDX Joe
On DC side not much to worry. Meanwell great design. In meanwell test they short circuit DC side for over an hour and driver still works. Plenty of protection on DC side.
Usually we use Constant current driver and it is not like DC output will jump crazy high current if short.
For high power constant voltage driver like the hlg 185/240/320 42/36. It might be good to use a 2 or 3 amp fuse to protect each cobs incase one or more cob in parallel fails and your remaining cobs get excessive current.

On AC side I think connecting ground important. A fuse would be nice too. But on AC there is high inrush current. So use a 'slow blow' type fuse if you want of slightly higher rating like 10 amps.
A fast blow 2or 5 amp may blow due to inrush current.

About thermal protector.
If metal encased thermal protector then very careful and avoid this mistake.:!:
http://rollitup.org/t/pictures-of-your-diy-lights-post-your-pics.871625/page-22#post-12059686

I prefer plastic encased thermal protectors.
Unfortunately many of these thermal protectors are rated too low for DC. Discrimination against DC:o
Example 125VAC 8A but only 24 VDC 8A
They are very well suitable to be connected to dimming in drivers as it is between 10-12v and very low currents.
Never tried them on AC side. But they seem more suited for AC side than DC side, which is usually 25-40v for popular cobs
Normally open type better for meanwell dimming.
Normally closed for AC or cob DC side

@Growmau5 I have some extra normally open types 55C cutoff thermal protectors
Great for dimming light incase overheat due to fan fail in active cool design. PM me if you want a few to play around. If you like you can make a video to explain how it works.
 
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organic-fanatic

Active Member
Harvest Update: cxb3590@700ma
I don't want to be one of those people that promote everything they do as god's gift. So let me say this first: I chose a strain (sin city: wht nightmare x bd) that I thought was going to be a winner. As it turns out, of the 7 different phenotypes flowered in this run, all of them seem to be very blue dream dominate. So I ended up producing ALOT of mid shelf cannabis.
With that said, the alien blues, tangerine power, and payday were consistent with the quality that I expect and have produced under other lighting setups.
* also, these plants ended up at around 78" tall! so anything below the 24" mark that was not lollipopped up was pretty much larf.

here is a drawing of my garden comparing my last yield from cxa3070 to this yield with the cxb3590. it has all the metrics I could think of. I am working on the video and photos now, so I will have a more detailed explanation there and have attempted to present bullet proof documentation to back up my claims. cheers.

View attachment 3565480
Very impressive,
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, experience and data.
Now that you have successfully grown under several lighting systems (hps, spdr, cree + spdr, & cree)& have shown the yield potential.
Could you comment on any noticeable differences in quality, density ect...with these lighting systems ?
thank you, i look forward to all your future posts and videos.
 
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