Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

badtorro said:

In fact the light temperature measured on the surface of the Earth changes within a day and within a year. You can actually observe a different colour temp at noon vs sunset

It depends on the angle at which sunlight penetrates the atmosphere.

Therefore while you may be technically correct (I really don't know), naturally grown plants receive various wave lengths during a single day, depending on time within a day.

Click to expand...

Apparently sunlight is about 2000k at sunrise and sunset and and about 5600-5800k at noon.

BobCajun said:

Apparently sunlight is about 2000k at sunrise and sunset and and about 5600-5800k at noon.

Click to expand...

at a single degree latitude....thats kinda important

All these people thinking the sun is so static throughout parts of the day....Go out and build one of those cheap bu useful spectrometers and see what happens....clouds, humidity, temp, wind speed, albedo....all contribute to what "wavelength" the sun is at that particular moment in time....to generalize can be useful, but to suggest that is what it is, now thats funny.

Abiqua said:

at a single degree latitude....thats kinda important

All these people thinking the sun is so static throughout parts of the day....Go out and build one of those cheap bu useful spectrometers and see what happens....clouds, humidity, temp, wind speed, albedo....all contribute to what "wavelength" the sun is at that particular moment in time....to generalize can be useful, but to suggest that is what it is, now thats funny.

Click to expand...

Ohhh yes !!!

Hey ...just a min !
Some people ,do suggest ,that some (or most ) of those living organisms -that have adapted under these constantly variable light conditions ( quantity -quality- duration-direction ) - all they need is just blue and red wavelengths...

In order to grow ....

( but not enough to flourish / thrive, maybe ? ....just sayin' ...)

....
Now ,that's funny ...

....

When once upon a time asked my plants about the Blue+Red LED lights ..
The answer was : " A boring,almost 'sterilised' , form of energy " .....

But then again ....
How many of you ,would trust the words of someone , who's claiming that he is
havin' philosophical conversations with plants ?

Eh ?

I know , I wouldn't ...


Cheers.

stardustsailor said:

Ohhh yes !!!

Hey ...just a min !
Some people ,do suggest ,that some (or most ) of those living organisms -that have adapted under these constantly variable light conditions ( quantity -quality- duration-direction ) - all they need is just blue and red wavelengths...

In order to grow ....

( but not enough to flourish / thrive, maybe ? ....just sayin' ...)

....
Now ,that's funny ...

....

When once upon a time asked my plants about the Blue+Red LED lights ..
The answer was : " A boring,almost 'sterilised' , form of energy " .....

But then again ....
How many of you ,would trust the words of someone , who's claiming that he is
havin' philosophical conversations with plants ?

Eh ?

I know , I wouldn't ...


Cheers.

Click to expand...

I wish there was a random Kelvin setting on Every Lamp type....Now that would be a hoot....Farts would increase Blue light, it is science! Think of the conundrums of random wavelengths and yet bountiful harvests that would still abide no doubt ....although certain minds , might "lose their shit" as they say here in the Western states....

Elongation from an all 5k flower run....Impossible! or is it or is it

I want yield somewhat independent of spectrum...but if I find two two different spectrums that are BOTH really good yielders...Then lets compare the mud slinging....otherwise as many have said....It all about the photons, babee

EfficientWatt said:

You have to understand that color temp is not equal to spectrum ...

Different color temps will have different spectrums => true
Same color temps =/= same spectrum

Just because you end up with the same color temp as natural daylight does NOT mean you will have the same results and spectrum as natural daylight ...

You could take a 3500K spectrum, strip away only some of the red part of the spectrum away, and obtain 5000K or 5780K ... Just like you could add blue, or cyan for eg.
=> There is an infinite number of different possible spectrums that would be labeled 5787K ... some extremely different from one another, some very similar ...

Think of color temps as the overall "tint" of a (wide) spectrum as perceived by the human eye ... you got it ... plants don't really care about K TEMP either ..

Click to expand...

I just ran across a great blurb on this. Oddly enough it was on a HID sellers website.

"Kelvin temperature is the unit of measure used to describe what color a lamp appears to be when it is lighted. Kelvin temperature is a lighting term used to relate the color appearance of a lit lamp to the color appearance of a glowing hot piece of metal. An example is hot steel which glows bright yellow when heated to 1200 degrees Kelvin. A lamp may be called 1200K if it looks like that same shade of yellow when lit.

Kelvin temperature has no relation to light spectrum, light quality or plant growth. It is used only to describe color appearance. The examples below show the spectral distribution charts of two lamps with the same Kelvin temperature but very different spectral outputs. So never purchase a grow lamp based upon its Kelvin temperature, especially if there is no spectral distribution chart to display the quality of the light emitted by the lamp. If you choose a lamp based on its Kelvin temperature alone, you may be depriving your plants of the wavelengths they need to reach their maximum potential. Always choose a grow lamp based on its spectrum, not its color temperature."

SOURCE

Abiqua said:

Elongation from an all 5k flower run....Impossible! or is it or is it

Click to expand...

PPPPPPPPPPussssstttt Tell Me No Secrets And I Will Tell No Lies Sounds Like A Sneaky Peat To Me

Hey @Growmau5 (or anybody else that has any input) can you help me figure out why my light won't turn on? I have (6) cxb3590 and an HLG-240-C1050a and as far as I can tell everything is connected correctly. I triple and quadruple checked the +/- alternation and each connection point. Here is a video (I also double as frozenstrawbs on youtube): Also includes a little shot of my 4x4 scrog under 6 a51 w90's. If you can't see if there is anything wrong with the wiring, any advice on how to troubleshoot each connection? And don't judge me for the awkward cob spacing, it's only because I plan on turning this light into a full 16 cobs in the near future and I can just fit my modular a51's in the gaps for now.
edit: I cleaned up all the exposed wire and still nothing. any tips on how to use the multimeter to check for shorts and opens; what would actually cause either of these to happen? sorry in advance guys if this ends up being something stupid

jewbag said:

Hey @Growmau5 (or anybody else that has any input) can you help me figure out why my light won't turn on? I have (6) cxb3590 and an HLG-240-C1050a and as far as I can tell everything is connected correctly. I triple and quadruple checked the +/- alternation and each connection point. Here is a video (I also double as frozenstrawbs on youtube):

Also includes a little shot of my 4x4 scrog under 6 a51 w90's. If you can't see if there is anything wrong with the wiring, any advice on how to troubleshoot each connection? And don't judge me for the awkward cob spacing, it's only because I plan on turning this light into a full 16 cobs in the near future and I can just fit my modular a51's in the gaps for now.

Click to expand...

The wago's? I thought those were for wiring multiple drivers together, not connecting the driver to the cobs. There's a high probability that I am wrong though, I'm still trying to grasp the basics over here.
Hope you get it figured out.

J Bleezy said:

The wago's? I thought those were for wiring multiple drivers together, not connecting the driver to the cobs. There's a high probability that I am wrong though, I'm still trying to grasp the basics over here.
Hope you get it figured out.

Click to expand...

Thanks for checking it out. That's the way @Greengenes707 connected the dc side on his tutorial vid so I'm pretty sure it should work, as long as it's connected properly...

jewbag said:

Hey @Growmau5 (or anybody else that has any input) can you help me figure out why my light won't turn on? I have (6) cxb3590 and an HLG-240-C1050a and as far as I can tell everything is connected correctly. I triple and quadruple checked the +/- alternation and each connection point. Here is a video (I also double as frozenstrawbs on youtube):

Also includes a little shot of my 4x4 scrog under 6 a51 w90's. If you can't see if there is anything wrong with the wiring, any advice on how to troubleshoot each connection? And don't judge me for the awkward cob spacing, it's only because I plan on turning this light into a full 16 cobs in the near future and I can just fit my modular a51's in the gaps for now.

Click to expand...

I see a lot of exposed wire at the connection points. Something might be shorted. You'll want to redo all of them and trim the wire so that no exposed wire shows from the WAGO connectors and from the IDEAL holders. Might want to just pick up a cheap DMM so you can check for shorts and opens.

mc130p said:

I see a lot of exposed wire at the connection points. Something might be shorted. You'll want to redo all of them and trim the wire so that no exposed wire shows from the WAGO connectors and from the IDEAL holders. Might want to just pick up a cheap DMM so you can check for shorts and opens.

Click to expand...

Ok thanks, I'm hoping that's the problem. Never built anything with wires before so I didn't know if that would fuck it up or not. I have a multimeter, is that what you mean by DMM?
edit: I cleaned up all the exposed wire and still nothing. any tips on how to use the multimeter to check for shorts and opens; what would actually cause either of these to happen?

mc130p said:

I see a lot of exposed wire at the connection points. Something might be shorted. You'll want to redo all of them and trim the wire so that no exposed wire shows from the WAGO connectors and from the IDEAL holders. Might want to just pick up a cheap DMM so you can check for shorts and opens.

Click to expand...

Good point. Manufacturer usually specifies how long the exposed part should be, ie Ideal recommends 7mm stranded 18AWG. And it works like a charm

jewbag said:

Ok thanks, I'm hoping that's the problem. Never built anything with wires before so I didn't know if that would fuck it up or not. I have a multimeter, is that what you mean by DMM?
edit: I cleaned up all the exposed wire and still nothing. any tips on how to use the multimeter to check for shorts and opens; what would actually cause either of these to happen?

Click to expand...

Check out some tutorial youtube videos on multimeters. Are you sure there is no COB reversed in its holder?

alesh said:

Good point. Manufacturer usually specifies how long the exposed part should be, ie Ideal recommends 7mm stranded 18AWG. And it works like a charm

Check out some tutorial youtube videos on multimeters. Are you sure there is no COB reversed in its holder?

Click to expand...

So if I want to check the current at the first connection in the series do I disconnect the wire to the following cobs on both the positive and negative sides of the series so that I can touch the probe to those wires? I don't understand where to touch the probes to when I want to measure a cob that's already connected so there's no exposed wire.

jewbag said:

So if I want to check the current at the first connection in the series do I disconnect the wire to the following cobs on both the positive and negative sides of the series so that I can touch the probe to those wires? I don't understand where to touch the probes to when I want to measure a cob that's already connected so there's no exposed wire.

Click to expand...

Watch more videos. If you want to measure current, make sure your probes are secured well. One slip while the driver is on and you can fry your COBs.
I'd start by checking the polarity of the COBs in holders.

jewbag said:

Ok thanks, I'm hoping that's the problem. Never built anything with wires before so I didn't know if that would fuck it up or not. I have a multimeter, is that what you mean by DMM?
edit: I cleaned up all the exposed wire and still nothing. any tips on how to use the multimeter to check for shorts and opens; what would actually cause either of these to happen?

Click to expand...

This is my biggest fear, what keeps me reading and digesting all this info. If when you fix it, please post what the issue was.

Gromau, can u check my reclaimed sinks on my new thread

when the newest Vid rollin out ?


https://www.rollitup.org/t/slappys-perpetual-led-hack-discussion.894986/#post-12205276

@jewbag cleaning up those exposed wires at the ideal holder connection point was a good place to start.
- try removing the potentiometer and sealing up the dimming wires temporarily as you test.
-put your multimeter on dc voltage and remove the driver from the cob string all together. test that your voltage reading is consistent with the drivers specs. 238v
-finally try removing one cob from the series and see if the driver will run 5 cobs. (shouldnt be a fV problem since that driver will run 6.6 cxb)
-lastly put the multimeter in series with the cob string and test the amperage.

*IF the driver is confirmed putting out 1050-1130ma and 238v, then it is a wiring issue.
* some of the cheap pots that I have bought have caused issues for me in the past.

lets us know how it works out & good luck!

Fastslappy said:

Gromau, can u check my reclaimed sinks on my new thread

when the newest Vid rollin out ?


https://www.rollitup.org/t/slappys-perpetual-led-hack-discussion.894986/#post-12205276

Click to expand...

awesome idea for a thread. those reclaimed heatsinks look pretty good, esp if they are anodized already.

the bigger heatsink looks like ~ 12'L x 6'w x 1.5" tall fins ( 21 total fins) heres what I see:

SA base plate: 72 in^2
SA base plate top: 72in^2 minus (21 x 0.125") = 69 in^2
SA per fin: 1.5" + 1.5" + 0.125" x 6" = 18.75 in^2 (x21) = 393.75in^2

total SA = 534.75 n^2
31.46 heat watts passive
89.125 heat watts active.

is that consistent with what you calculated.

Growmau5 said:

awesome idea for a thread. those reclaimed heatsinks look pretty good, esp if they are anodized already.

the bigger heatsink looks like ~ 12'L x 6'w x 1.5" tall fins ( 21 total fins) heres what I see:

SA base plate: 72 in^2
SA base plate top: 72in^2 minus (21 x 0.125") = 69 in^2
SA per fin: 1.5" + 1.5" + 0.125" x 6" = 18.75 in^2 (x21) = 393.75in^2

total SA = 534.75 n^2
31.46 heat watts passive
89.125 heat watts active.

is that consistent with what you calculated.

Click to expand...

Sexy! Happens to actively cool four CXB3590 @50W just about perfectly! So will they all fit on the working face?

ttystikk said:

Sexy! Happens to actively cool four CXB3590 @50W just about perfectly! So will they all fit on the working face?

Click to expand...

youre right! its like this thing is made for 50w cxbs. other than it not spreading them out very much.

I think that I am going to make a dumpster diving video. I saw a ONKYO reciever from the 90s in the dumpster yesterday. I was thinking " the amount of mosfets and transistors that are in those 1990s receivers! this thing has to have a decent heatsink in it. "