Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
And what about heatpipe heatsinks? It seems to be an excellent technology. Maybe we need to talk to a company that makes cpu heatsinks, see if they're interested in designing one.

The Green Griffin said:
Hey GM!
1st: Don't fight it, you are insane (or at least highly abnormal) - in a really good way. I should know, it feels like you are a brother from a different mother except I'm older and dumber. And I worked at NASA.:dunce:

2nd: I bet the Carbon fiber fixture is easy to keep clean, it keeps cabling out of the way and safe, and is off the charts on the cool factor. So Mr. Dawg, there ARE other advantages. Expensive, but I mention how fricken cool it is??? And it matches the interior of the McLaren Grow Van i dreamed about last night. Pretty sure it would be the quickest grow room on the planet. Planning on running experiments on the results of rapid acceleration (and deceleration) on the growth of landrace Indicas. I'll get back to ya on results.:hump:

3rd: The hollow HS pins are an intriguing idea, doubles the surface area of the pins. :clap: Do you think you might need some vent holes in the bottom of those hollow tubes in order to allow airflow up and out....otherwise there will be considerable drag between air upflow and inflow/downflow which would diminish their effectiveness?? You've probably already thought of this....

Hope this brought ya a smile, bro. Really appreciate ya.
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Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 said:
@Wisher2 thanks for the reply man. ill try the brush and roll method on my next little mold and see if the investment in a proper gun is necessary(sure would be nice to own tho)

@The Green Griffin @PurpleBuz you guys bring up some interesting points to consider. I was hung up on hollow rod after getting 120 ft of it for $19 because it was slightly bent. This entire conversation is giving me a lot of ideas and things to think about.

It may work out to be worth it, as a hobbiest , trying to shave a few degrees. It also may be a fools errand. Either way, I get a lot of joy out of fabricating, testing, etc. Ill put a flared design on the testing block as well, since they will be much easier for most people to obtain.

@robincnn great points as well. why are the laws of physics so damn absolute! (guess thats why they are called laws and not theories).
the little holes are not for monos, they are speed dimples duh. lolololol

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Ya, this is about what mine looked like when they got to me @robincnn .haha jkjk. Definitely some bends to work out though. I'll be starting that build soon. Veg light. 4-4000k 3070's.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Hey Mauie, ever think about making some cool little Zhaga book 8 type modules? Zhaga is the future you know. Resistance is futile. Look how cool they look though. Bad part is they have to have a self contained driver. It would have to be a pretty small driver. But just something to think about as a business opportunity, not just grow light related. I don't know where you can even buy the sockets yet though, that's how new it is. Maybe get into the socket business. Here's a Zhaga page about it, if you haven't researched it yet.

 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
Hey Mauie, ever think about making some cool little Zhaga book 8 type modules? Zhaga is the future you know. Resistance is futile. Look how cool they look though. Bad part is they have to have a self contained driver. It would have to be a pretty small driver. But just something to think about as a business opportunity, not just grow light related. I don't know where you can even buy the sockets yet though, that's how new it is. Maybe get into the socket business. Here's a Zhaga page about it, if you haven't researched it yet.

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I haven't even looked into them. put it looks pretty slick. It must be incredibly new, seening the extrusion lines from the clearly 3D printed base. they might not even have their injection mould tooling finalized yet.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 said:
I haven't even looked into them. put it looks pretty slick. It must be incredibly new, seening the extrusion lines from the clearly 3D printed base. they might not even have their injection mould tooling finalized yet.
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Apparently BJB has certified holders. I think it's these. They just feed AC power to the modules. I guess it's not something that small timers could get in on. Pretty much need a factory to make stuff like that. Though you can just contract a Chinese company to mould a bunch of casing units. Cost a lot to make the moulds though probably.

I guess they'd have to be very low wattage lights not to overheat, so probably useless for grow purposes. Maybe you could just use the holders to route the DC power to the COBs. Say you want a different color COB sometimes. Well, you just unscrew the module and put the other one in.

I guess this is how you cool them. Here's some other ones.

 
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Pulpit_

Pulpit_

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 said:
@The Green Griffin I take that as a compliment! insanity can lead to some pretty cool innovative stuff sometimes. I started getting into composites at the request of my Dad for some custom car parts he wanted to make. Its not really practical for grow lights, but practical has never really been high on my list.

On the hollow pin design, I have never seen it commercially available, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. I think you are spot on, holes in the base of the sink everywhere but under the COB would potentially have the same effect as turning a pin heatsink at an angle(like that article everyone keeps linking).

i may be reaching a little here, but the heat created by the field of photons coming from the LES could create enough of a micro climate to cause a convection current to push air thru the holes in the base, up thru the pins and out the top. this could be the most efficient passive design available. maybe ill knock the dust off this project and get the prototype out for testing.

now. how do I attach the pins to the base, thats where im stuck. I can make a jig out of wood or metal so the pins end up straight and parallel. but do I use:
-2 part thermal epoxy
-braise them with a torch and AL filler
-TIG weld them (time, energy, low skill level at TIG) possible warping of base

so IDK.
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I would think aircraft aluminum epoxy would be the best bet, like what they used to build that Lotus car. There isn’t a lot of options in the market for small dia aluminum tube, assuming you want ¼” o.d – 3/8” o.d. It’s typically available as 6061-T6 WW-T-700 ( .035 or .049 wall is pretty standard). Being such a small diameter these tubes are drawn which adds a huge expense compared to an extruded ¼” dia solid bar. Solid bar should run about .20 cents a ft (at just under 4.00 lb) which should be accurate for smaller qty. If you want to find out about availability/pricing you can call TW Metals or EMJ, their the top two suppliers. They have locations all over the U.S.A. With the amount of labor involved in this project I can’t see it as being a viable option. Condenser tube is probably really cheap but it would be a pain to straighten, they might carry alum hydraulic tube.

Most extruders will run a 1000 lbs as a minimum which isn’t a lot depending on your profile. If you find an extruder with a die in stock you can have your own heat sinks made. You could design your own if you want to pay for a $1000.00 - $2000.00 die charge….just a thought.
 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
@PerroVerde @BobCajun For this run, testing if all this work into a light mover (that probably isnt necessary, lol) I will be using a monoculture as suggested by @Greengenes707

100% Exotic Genetix : Cherry Cream Pie. out of 7 phenos, I have 2 stunners. and one that I'll include in this run to get more data.
its the dankest strain that I have, so I know the quality will be there. If the weight is there too, that's great too.

I'm working up (11) pink v2.0 as well

exotic_logo.png

@GrumpyToker you make me laugh man. and ur inside my head. I got a gangster track for you , for the youtube video once its done.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Here's a cool thing I found which may interest you, GM5. Bridgelux has a "decor" series of COBs which are designed for certain commercial settings. Thing is, they have a much better spectrum than the standard white series, the peak is moved over to 650 nm. From the spectrums, it looks like the 17E CCT is the best, but from the output table we see that it doesn't put out much lumens. That's because a bunch of green is cut out, which should be good, but some people may not like that low a lm/w figure so the next best is the 27H, which does have a very good lumen output. That may be the all around best one. It may not be available for the 29s though so I guess 25E.



This may be the spectrums for the "Ultra" versions with 97 CRI. The data sheet isn't that clear about it.

 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
Here's a cool thing I found which may interest you, GM5. Bridgelux has a "decor" series of COBs which are designed for certain commercial settings. Thing is, they have a much better spectrum than the standard white series.
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The décor series is nothing more than a high cri version for bridgelux. It suffers the same issues as most high cri series, (lower efficiency for a fatter spectrum). and we all know that more photons beats a better spectrum, as long as the spectrum is reasonable such as a typical hps spectrum.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
The décor series is nothing more than a high cri version for bridgelux. It suffers the same issues as most high cri series, (lower efficiency for a fatter spectrum). and we all know that more photons beats a better spectrum, as long as the spectrum is reasonable such as a typical hps spectrum.
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Yeah but the extra lumens are in the green/yellow bands, and green is known to suppress growth. Red light doesn't show up as strong on a lumen meter as green/yellow. This shows the difference between decor ones and regular. The peak is moved from crappy to perfect. They're about the same at 630-640 but Decor has a lot more 660-680. It has about twice as much far red. The Decors are for people who value quality over quantity or cost.


source
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
Yeah but the extra lumens are in the green/yellow bands, and green is known to suppress growth. Red light doesn't show up as strong on a lumen meter as green/yellow. This shows the difference between decor ones and regular. The peak is moved from crappy to perfect. They're about the same at 630-640 but Decor has a lot more 660-680. It has about twice as much far red. The Decors are for people who value quality over quantity or cost.
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wrong. you are comparing relative to 100%. But that 100% is far different between the décor series (high CRI) than a 70 or 80 CRI.

and by the friggin way contrary to what you read in plant physiology papers designed to understand plant physiological and biochemical mechanisms, green DOES NOT INHIBIT growth under production light levels. In fact its one of the primary reason HPS out produces a blurple light under full thick canopy conditions.

a typical high cri\low cri comparison in absolute terms:
CRI comparisons actual[1].jpg
 
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