Mechanic thread....

Yeah just let water run through till it comes out clean. FIll and drive around a bit, drain till it runs clear and fill with antifreeze and distilled water.

I used a radiator flush and it made my heater core leak. Now I can;t turn on the heater without it leaking and stinking the car up with antifreeze. It's a complete dash and steering wheel off job to replace the heater core.
I just did that on my truck a while back. Not hard. Still sucks was to have to do it.
 
We are headed into summer, so it is not really a concern now. Will likely sell the car when I find a nice diesel merc or BMW. I do love me some 90s luxury.
 
My 469,000 mile 1980 Ford Fiesta is down at the moment, I'm prepping a British Ford Escort Mexico head for it (bigger ports and valves) and replacing a whole bunch of worn suspension bushings.
 
IMG_3034.JPG IMG_3033.JPG I got a question for the mechanic @mr sunshine. Hopefully all is well. I'm trying to replace the lower control arm and spindle. The pics here are the replacement parts from the junk yard. I started taking off the nut from the upper control arm but it keeps spinning bolt and nut. The bolt in the picture is the lower one but is the same as the top. This bolt is stationary and doesn't spin from the junk yard. Is the upper bolt broken, or is it normal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Oh yeah. I forgot to mention there was a B.j a curb some rims involved. Nobody was hurt. Whiplash etc.
 
I'm using an aftermarket 4 barrel carb on my 460 big block and it's lacking a kickdown lever attachment bracket for the C6 transmission. Should I just go without the passing gear or should I try to make a bracket of some kind that either attaches to the carb or is manually activated some how? Maybe something like the manual choke system I'm going to have to install?

Thanks in advance Mr. Dr. Proffessor. Sunshine.
Is there a kickdown rod going to the tranny or is that missing? The kickdown rod isn't available new, need to find a used one of it isn't there. Otherwise there's linkage kits available to connect the rod to the carb. Lokar sells a whole replacement cable with hardware. I've seen people just use drilled flat stock and bolts. Like this:
carb1.JPG

I'm missing the rod on my '79 f250 and haven't been able to find one, ill probably just downshift manually.
 
View attachment 4020081 View attachment 4020085 I got a question for the mechanic @mr sunshine. Hopefully all is well. I'm trying to replace the lower control arm and spindle. The pics here are the replacement parts from the junk yard. I started taking off the nut from the upper control arm but it keeps spinning bolt and nut. The bolt in the picture is the lower one but is the same as the top. This bolt is stationary and doesn't spin from the junk yard. Is the upper bolt broken, or is it normal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Put a wrench on the hex on top of the stud to stop it from spinning and use a wrench on the nut. Heat is your friend.
 
You can make the best penetrating oil at home....
Mix 50/50 ATF and acetone in a small glass vial and shake the bejesus out of it, as it does not mix readily, apply to rusty shit or tight seized shit.
Also good for rust prevention. Most ATF has really good rust inhibitors in it. Its common practice to spray down the underside of the snow equipment around here with used ATF/ solvent mix. My father worked on some large highway equipment that had been treated like this all its life and even though it was 30+ years old, they looked almost new underneath. I keep a bottle full of old ATF and wipe down parts with it as i reassemble stuff.
 
Back
Top