Might this be a Mag deficiency ?

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Snafu34

Active Member
Plant is in Ocean Forest with a little lime added. CMH lighting. Temps of 71* to 82* 3 weeks into flowering on a 48-50 day flowering strain. No nutrient giving until a couple days ago when I started with a low Maxibloom solution. Try my best to pH to 6.5 or so. Tap water (not to hard) used throughout. Any suggestions?

 
mateobeast88

mateobeast88

Member
You could use Cal-mag or even potassium silica they all have the same featured problems. I would do a small mixture of both.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Interesting.... you added lime to FFOF , and dolomite lime has calcium and mag .

Sooooo , I’m thinking your PH is dropping calcium out ... you stated you “ try your best to hit 6.5 “ .
FFOF out of the bag is 6.3 .... calcium can drop out below 6.2. If you have a PH pen , make absolute sure you are in acceptable
range of 6.5 - 6.7.

Leaves mottled with spotting will not recover , you are only trying to stymie the progression. Without calcium , plant becomes weak .
Tap water is fine under most circumstances. You can also help your plant by supplementing more FFOF as a top dress and water in.
FFOF already is prebuffered with oyster shell and perhaps your lime addition has skewed the ratio of available elements.

FFOF is a run and done soil ... MANY overthink it and screw it up by dumping other Nutes on top of it.
That soil ALONE can run your plants from start to finish , by top dressing alone.
 
cowboylogic

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
Being that the spots are directly on the veins and not the tissue between them. I say its a mold or fungal issue.
 
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Kushash

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Interesting.... you added lime to FFOF , and dolomite lime has calcium and mag .

Sooooo , I’m thinking your PH is dropping calcium out ... you stated you “ try your best to hit 6.5 “ .
FFOF out of the bag is 6.3 .... calcium can drop out below 6.2. If you have a PH pen , make absolute sure you are in acceptable
range of 6.5 - 6.7.

Leaves mottled with spotting will not recover , you are only trying to stymie the progression. Without calcium , plant becomes weak .
Tap water is fine under most circumstances. You can also help your plant by supplementing more FFOF as a top dress and water in.
FFOF already is prebuffered with oyster shell and perhaps your lime addition has skewed the ratio of available elements.

FFOF is a run and done soil ... MANY overthink it and screw it up by dumping other Nutes on top of it.
That soil ALONE can run your plants from start to finish , by top dressing alone.
Click to expand...
Watering to often will also lower an already low soil PH possibly creating the calcium lockout.
 
S

Snafu34

Active Member
Thanks for chiming in gentleman- Cowboy may be on to something. My R.H. is pretty high at the moment. 62% but I have grown this strain many times in the same environment and have never seen this prior to. My conditions vary too much but I have to deal with the cards delt. If I run a dehumidifier my ambient temps just get to high at times. It's life growing in the bildge of a boat- not ideal.

 
S

Snafu34

Active Member
Just turned on the dehumidifier- I'll go and trim any effected leaves to be safer. I had one issue with mold 15 years since ago Have not seen it since.
 
Kushash

Kushash

Well-Known Member
cowboylogic said:
Yeah I am positive its not a nutrient issue.
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You may be right, are you including low PH as not the issue because low ph can be considered a nutrient problem.
I'm seeing four things that make me feel it may be a low PH.
The spots.
The yellowing.
The faded overall look of the leaves.
The purple stems. Purple stems may not always mean a problem but looking at the one shown it's possible the purple stem is also a nutrient issue.
Just my 2c, time for food, a shot, a beer and some weed to wash it down, :peace:
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
I don't know if the humidity is a factor here, but it's unlikely that humidity caused the yellowing and browning that is tissue death. I don't think that's mold as it really looks more like it's part of the leaf that is dying. I don't think the maxibloom was a good idea. budz is right about OF soil. but live and learn.
 
S

Snafu34

Active Member
I'm way ahead of you on the shot, a beer and some weed to wash it down, The food comes later- My tap water is about 7.5 - need to add about .4ml ph down to arrive in the 6.5 neighborhood (1/2gal). With 1/3 tsp Maxibloom and .5ml booster - .5ml ph up is needed. I have a meter but I mix such small amounts it is too much of a pain. I have tested a few mixes of differnet strenghts to be fairly comfortable in just mixing and doing a quick vile color check with the G.H test kit. Yellow to maybe a small hint of green Tap H20 airs for 2 days prior to mixing - mix and feed within minutes.
 
cowboylogic

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
I'm basing my observations on two main factors. The color of the spots, black or very dark brown. And the discoloration is along the veins and not in the margins.
 
S

Snafu34

Active Member
I don't know - I have a 10 year relationship with FFOF and Maxi. Plant was transplanted with fresh FFOF 34 days ago. LSTed, Vegged and in flowering for three weeks before any nutes added. And then only three watering. Never showed sign of tip burn or --
 
Kushash

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Snafu34 said:
I don't know - I have a 10 year relationship with FFOF and Maxi. Plant was transplanted with fresh FFOF 34 days ago. LSTed, Vegged and in flowering for three weeks before any nutes added. And then only three watering. Never showed sign of tip burn or --
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Not sure what your problem is. Budz knows his shit an ph's water.
I never ph my water or worry about the PH of my water. I make sure to cut it with RO down to 150 - 200 ppms and allow the soil to adjust the ph as needed by itself.
What is important is to know what is in your tap water. Mine is hard but loaded with good stuff being run off from the rocky mountains just has to much calcium. The lower the ppms of your water the easier it is for the soil to buffer it.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Snafu34 said:
I'm way ahead of you on the shot, a beer and some weed to wash it down, The food comes later- My tap water is about 7.5 - need to add about .4ml ph down to arrive in the 6.5 neighborhood (1/2gal). With 1/3 tsp Maxibloom and .5ml booster - .5ml ph up is needed. I have a meter but I mix such small amounts it is too much of a pain. I have tested a few mixes of differnet strenghts to be fairly comfortable in just mixing and doing a quick vile color check with the G.H test kit. Yellow to maybe a small hint of green Tap H20 airs for 2 days prior to mixing - mix and feed within minutes.
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Reading thru this .... it sounds like you are “ ph “ the water first then after the nute addition ?

If so you would be better off starting your mix together THEN ph prior to use.
 
Queen2Green

Queen2Green

Well-Known Member
Snafu34 said:
I'm way ahead of you on the shot, a beer and some weed to wash it down, The food comes later- My tap water is about 7.5 - need to add about .4ml ph down to arrive in the 6.5 neighborhood (1/2gal). With 1/3 tsp Maxibloom and .5ml booster - .5ml ph up is needed. I have a meter but I mix such small amounts it is too much of a pain. I have tested a few mixes of differnet strenghts to be fairly comfortable in just mixing and doing a quick vile color check with the G.H test kit. Yellow to maybe a small hint of green Tap H20 airs for 2 days prior to mixing - mix and feed within minutes.
Click to expand...
I think low PH as well, and as Budz said - you’re locking out calcium. You say color is “yellow to maybe a small hint of green.” I use FFOF Perlite mix.. I ph this way and yellow to a hint of green is 6.0-6.5 at very best. I ph to more of a light pea green. Have you checked your runoff?
 
S

Snafu34

Active Member
Sorry Guys - got real busy last evening and into the day. Budz- I always add any pH up or down after any nutes are added to the raw tap water.
Queen- I'll check again with my meter again - I try to shoot for the 6.5 color shown belowpH color scale.jpg

Thanks you all
 
Queen2Green

Queen2Green

Well-Known Member
Snafu34 said:
Sorry Guys - got real busy last evening and into the day. Budz- I always add any pH up or down after any nutes are added to the raw tap water.
Queen- I'll check again with my meter again - I try to shoot for the 6.5 color shown belowView attachment 4630633

Thanks you all
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Yeah, I had same issue my first run with FFOF. Definitely check the runoff ph next time you water. I think it’s going to look close to 6.0. I find FFOF works best when ph water to slightly lighter than 7 (:
 
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