Mogie Explain More Please.
- Thread starter ray_say
- Start date
mogie
Well-Known Member
Hypoaspis miles Technical Bulletin
[SIZE=+1] Hypoaspis miles
Predatory mite[/SIZE] [SIZE=+1]Target Pest: [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Primarily for control of fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.) and for supplemental control of western flower thrips (Frankinella occidentalis). [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Description:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Hypoaspis is a native species of soil-dwelling mites which feed on small insects and mites. Adults are tan in color and less than 1 mm long. Hypoaspis are used primarily to control young larvae of fungus gnats in the soil or planting media. They also help control soil stages of thrips and may account for up to 30% of thrips control. Hypoaspis does not control shore flies of moth flies, but will feed on other soil organisms such as springtails and root mealybugs. They have been used successfully in bedding and potted plant production, seedling and cutting propagation and poinsettia stock. Hypoaspis adapts well to the various growth media and capillary mats used in plant production, but do not survive freezing of flooding conditions. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Product information:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Hypoaspis is supplied in a pasteurized peat/bran mixture in 1 liter (1 qt) containers with a shaker lid for distributing the mixture over the soil. There are 15,000 to 20,000 predators per liter or about 15 to 20 predators per cc. The mixture may also contain another species of mite as a food source for the predators. To check the product for live mites, inspect under 10-15X magnification. The predators are tan and move quicly compared to the food source mites, which are white or translucent and move slowly. [/SIZE] [SIZE=+1] The predators should be applied as soon as received. Do not refrigerate. If necessary, containers can be held, stored on their side out of direct sunlight, at 16-21°C (60-70°F) for up to 7 days. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Release Rates: [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1] Hypoaspis is most effective when appied before fungus gnat population becomes established or while numbers are still low (below 10/trap/week). One application of Hypoaspis per crop cycle is usually sufficient, if used early in the season. [/SIZE] [SIZE=+1]Soil Culture: Apply 1 L/100 sq. m (100 sq. ft.) to the soil at the time of planting. Be sure to treat wet, exposed area os soil, where fungus gnats are likely to breed. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Sawdust bag or Rockwool culture: Apply 8-16 L/hectare (3-6 L/acre) to at least on eplant in every bag or rockwool slab. Vegetable transplants may be treated 1 week before planting out. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Pot Culture: Apply 1L/200 sq. m (2000 sq. ft.) of bench area. Treat the floor of the greenhouse if it provides conditions for fungus gnats to breed and occasionally treat the perimeter of the greenhouse. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1] It is not necessary to apply mites to every flat of bedding plants if applications are done early, at full rate, to allow them time to spread to all flats. Mites can also be applied to propagation media before striking cuttings. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Life span:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]The complete life cycle takes about 18 days at 20°C (68°F). The sex ratio is equal, 1:1 females to males. Hypoaspis eggs hatch in 2 to 3 days into young numphs. Each Hypoaspis consumes 1 to 5 prey per day. It can also survive as a scavenger, feeding on algae and plant debris. Populations will naturally fluctuate throughout the growing season. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Strategic Considerations:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Do not mix predators into the growth media before potting because they do not survive. Apply Hypoaspis shortly after planting and before fungus gnat levels reach more than 20 adults/trap/week. To control high numbers of fungus gnats, use Hypoaspis can be integrated with insect parasitic nematodes (e.g., Steinernema spp.) and Bacillus thurinigiensis israelensis (BTI) (Vectobac¨
, both of which control the larval stage of fungus gnats. [/SIZE] [SIZE=+1] In general, do not apply Hypoaspis to soil that has been treated with lime or pesticides (particularly soil treated with diazinon). It is likely that foliar sprays are less harmful than soil drenches, depending upon how much pesticide reaches the soil surface. Fungicide drenches containing benzimidazoles are known to reduce reproduction of Hypoaspis. Microbial pesticides, such as Vectobac¨ (BTI) will not harm Hypoaspis. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1] Hypoaspis miles
Predatory mite[/SIZE] [SIZE=+1]Target Pest: [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Primarily for control of fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.) and for supplemental control of western flower thrips (Frankinella occidentalis). [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Description:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Hypoaspis is a native species of soil-dwelling mites which feed on small insects and mites. Adults are tan in color and less than 1 mm long. Hypoaspis are used primarily to control young larvae of fungus gnats in the soil or planting media. They also help control soil stages of thrips and may account for up to 30% of thrips control. Hypoaspis does not control shore flies of moth flies, but will feed on other soil organisms such as springtails and root mealybugs. They have been used successfully in bedding and potted plant production, seedling and cutting propagation and poinsettia stock. Hypoaspis adapts well to the various growth media and capillary mats used in plant production, but do not survive freezing of flooding conditions. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Product information:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Hypoaspis is supplied in a pasteurized peat/bran mixture in 1 liter (1 qt) containers with a shaker lid for distributing the mixture over the soil. There are 15,000 to 20,000 predators per liter or about 15 to 20 predators per cc. The mixture may also contain another species of mite as a food source for the predators. To check the product for live mites, inspect under 10-15X magnification. The predators are tan and move quicly compared to the food source mites, which are white or translucent and move slowly. [/SIZE] [SIZE=+1] The predators should be applied as soon as received. Do not refrigerate. If necessary, containers can be held, stored on their side out of direct sunlight, at 16-21°C (60-70°F) for up to 7 days. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Release Rates: [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1] Hypoaspis is most effective when appied before fungus gnat population becomes established or while numbers are still low (below 10/trap/week). One application of Hypoaspis per crop cycle is usually sufficient, if used early in the season. [/SIZE] [SIZE=+1]Soil Culture: Apply 1 L/100 sq. m (100 sq. ft.) to the soil at the time of planting. Be sure to treat wet, exposed area os soil, where fungus gnats are likely to breed. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Sawdust bag or Rockwool culture: Apply 8-16 L/hectare (3-6 L/acre) to at least on eplant in every bag or rockwool slab. Vegetable transplants may be treated 1 week before planting out. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Pot Culture: Apply 1L/200 sq. m (2000 sq. ft.) of bench area. Treat the floor of the greenhouse if it provides conditions for fungus gnats to breed and occasionally treat the perimeter of the greenhouse. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1] It is not necessary to apply mites to every flat of bedding plants if applications are done early, at full rate, to allow them time to spread to all flats. Mites can also be applied to propagation media before striking cuttings. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Life span:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]The complete life cycle takes about 18 days at 20°C (68°F). The sex ratio is equal, 1:1 females to males. Hypoaspis eggs hatch in 2 to 3 days into young numphs. Each Hypoaspis consumes 1 to 5 prey per day. It can also survive as a scavenger, feeding on algae and plant debris. Populations will naturally fluctuate throughout the growing season. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Strategic Considerations:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Do not mix predators into the growth media before potting because they do not survive. Apply Hypoaspis shortly after planting and before fungus gnat levels reach more than 20 adults/trap/week. To control high numbers of fungus gnats, use Hypoaspis can be integrated with insect parasitic nematodes (e.g., Steinernema spp.) and Bacillus thurinigiensis israelensis (BTI) (Vectobac¨
, both of which control the larval stage of fungus gnats. [/SIZE] [SIZE=+1] In general, do not apply Hypoaspis to soil that has been treated with lime or pesticides (particularly soil treated with diazinon). It is likely that foliar sprays are less harmful than soil drenches, depending upon how much pesticide reaches the soil surface. Fungicide drenches containing benzimidazoles are known to reduce reproduction of Hypoaspis. Microbial pesticides, such as Vectobac¨ (BTI) will not harm Hypoaspis. [/SIZE]
mogie
Well-Known Member
And this if it helps with anymore info:
HP10 $37.95 12345678910
THE PREDATORY SOIL MITE....
Hypoaspis miles feed upon small, soil inhabiting insects, mites, and all stages of springtails. Is primary a predator of fungus gnat larvae in the soil, but it also consumes thrips pupae on the floor and soil surface of the greenhouse. It is a scavenger and can feed on soil debris in the asence of thrips pupae and fungus gnat larvae. They are a native soil mite and can adapt to a variety of different growth media and capillary mats. They are less than 1 mm (1/20 inch) in size, light brown in color, and can be seen moving quickly on the soil surface and base of plants. Hypoaspis are used primarily for control of fungus gnats, but they also help with western flower thrips control.
Populations of Hypoaspis include both sexes, but the males are much smaller and rarely seen. Under a hand lens most stages of this mite look similar. Hypoaspis inhabit the top few centimeters (inch) of soil only. Eggs hatch in about 2-3 days, and the life cycle is completed in about 11 days. These predatory mites feeds upon the young larvae of fungus gnats in the soil, and are most effective when applied to soil before fungus gnat populations are establised. Hypoaspis consume 1-5 prey per day and can survive as a scavenger by feeding on algae and plant degris. Hypoaspis tolerate a variety of conditions except flooding. They can survive mild winters but are inactive below 57 degrees F.
Hypoaspis are for preventative control only, before fungus gnat populations are high. They are supplied in a peat mixture in one liter containters and should be aplied as soon as they are recieved, but can be held at room temperature for limited periods if absolutely necessary. Introduce 1-2 litres per acre for greenhouse vegetables and 1 liter per 1000 square feet for bedding plants.
HP10 $37.95 12345678910
THE PREDATORY SOIL MITE....
Hypoaspis miles feed upon small, soil inhabiting insects, mites, and all stages of springtails. Is primary a predator of fungus gnat larvae in the soil, but it also consumes thrips pupae on the floor and soil surface of the greenhouse. It is a scavenger and can feed on soil debris in the asence of thrips pupae and fungus gnat larvae. They are a native soil mite and can adapt to a variety of different growth media and capillary mats. They are less than 1 mm (1/20 inch) in size, light brown in color, and can be seen moving quickly on the soil surface and base of plants. Hypoaspis are used primarily for control of fungus gnats, but they also help with western flower thrips control.
Hypoaspis are for preventative control only, before fungus gnat populations are high. They are supplied in a peat mixture in one liter containters and should be aplied as soon as they are recieved, but can be held at room temperature for limited periods if absolutely necessary. Introduce 1-2 litres per acre for greenhouse vegetables and 1 liter per 1000 square feet for bedding plants.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Is this the problem:
Contributed by: snoofer
Images archived 2002
Introduction:
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can seriously damage indoor and outdoor crops. Powdery mildew can rapidly infect crops in both vegetative and flowering stages, coating leaves, stems and buds in fungus.
Powdery mildew typically thrives in cool, damp, shaded and poorly ventilated areas. Airborne spores brought into the grow room land on leaf surfaces and will germinate given favorable conditions. High night humidity levels often trigger the growth of mildew spores. Powdery mildew can attack indoor crops year round.
Powdery mildew is almost impossible to stop in late flowering, so early detection and control is essential. Perpetual harvest, dense scrog/sog systems, and damp basement grows are particularly vulnerable to powdery mildew. Note: strains vary in their susceptibility.
This FAQ focuses on indoor prevention and treatment options. Please read Bongaloid’s Powdery Mildew FAQ for more information.
Identification, Symptoms and damage:
Early signs of powdery mildew include white powder/fuzzy patches on leaves (usually low in the canopy) and a fuzzy white coating on lower stems. Note: powdery mildew can be wiped off the leaves for a quick visual check.
(photo provided by turtle power) (photo provided by just one blunt)
These fuzzy mycelium patches produce airborne spores that rapidly attack adjacent plants; mildew will eventually coat leaves and entire plants, reducing photosynthesis, plant vigor and bud quality.
Plants on the edge of a garden, in corners and under stress are attacked first; infection usually starts in the lower canopy where conditions are optimal. As infection progresses, mildew will spread to the top of the plants and finally attack the buds.
Infected buds may appear normal; but are internally dusted with white powder (which cannot be removed by drying), and have a stale, musty/moldy smell when dry. Smoking or trimming infected buds can cause sickness and lung infections, and is not recommended. Infected leaves should be discarded. Lower buds are the most susceptible.
Powdery mildew is difficult to 100% eradicate; control requires prevention, early detection, and pro-active measures.
Contributed by: snoofer
Images archived 2002
Introduction:
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can seriously damage indoor and outdoor crops. Powdery mildew can rapidly infect crops in both vegetative and flowering stages, coating leaves, stems and buds in fungus.
Powdery mildew typically thrives in cool, damp, shaded and poorly ventilated areas. Airborne spores brought into the grow room land on leaf surfaces and will germinate given favorable conditions. High night humidity levels often trigger the growth of mildew spores. Powdery mildew can attack indoor crops year round.
Powdery mildew is almost impossible to stop in late flowering, so early detection and control is essential. Perpetual harvest, dense scrog/sog systems, and damp basement grows are particularly vulnerable to powdery mildew. Note: strains vary in their susceptibility.
This FAQ focuses on indoor prevention and treatment options. Please read Bongaloid’s Powdery Mildew FAQ for more information.
Identification, Symptoms and damage:
Early signs of powdery mildew include white powder/fuzzy patches on leaves (usually low in the canopy) and a fuzzy white coating on lower stems. Note: powdery mildew can be wiped off the leaves for a quick visual check.
These fuzzy mycelium patches produce airborne spores that rapidly attack adjacent plants; mildew will eventually coat leaves and entire plants, reducing photosynthesis, plant vigor and bud quality.
Plants on the edge of a garden, in corners and under stress are attacked first; infection usually starts in the lower canopy where conditions are optimal. As infection progresses, mildew will spread to the top of the plants and finally attack the buds.
Infected buds may appear normal; but are internally dusted with white powder (which cannot be removed by drying), and have a stale, musty/moldy smell when dry. Smoking or trimming infected buds can cause sickness and lung infections, and is not recommended. Infected leaves should be discarded. Lower buds are the most susceptible.
Powdery mildew is difficult to 100% eradicate; control requires prevention, early detection, and pro-active measures.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Preventive gardening:
Preventative gardening techniques can be effective in defending against powdery mildew.
Dont water plants at night. Reduce or stop watering before the lights have gone out to help evaporate and reduce room humidity.
Reduce plant density. Spread plants apart to improve air circulation. Don’t place plants directly against walls or into corners, typically areas of poor air circulation. Pull plants 6”-1’ away from walls or reflective surfaces.
Pruning. Remove the lowest leaves as the plants mature and prune the bottom 1/3 of the plant during veg to increase airflow inside the lower canopy. Remove all unnecessary growth. Put an oscillating fan down low to blow through this pruned area.
Foliar feeding. Foliar feeding can sometimes cause excessive nighttime humidity levels. Discontinue if mildew appears.
Harvest early if mildew is a problem.
Environmental control:
Improving growroom conditions is an excellent way to passively prevent and minimize damage by powdery mildew.
Monitor humidity levels. A quality humidity gauge should be used to monitor day and night r.h levels. Avoid prolonged high humidity levels: 50-60% r.h is ideal. Humidity must be kept below 70% during the night; levels over 80% will guarantee infection within 48 hrs.
Ventilation. Constant air movement inhibits mildew, and lowers humidity. Use oscillating fans on all sides of a garden to circulate the air. Ventilate air out of the grow room periodically during the night cycle to reduce humidity from irrigation and transpiration.
Note: Once mildew is established, oscillating fans may actually spread spores throughout the garden. Stop fans, treat infected areas, and then resume airflow.
Heat night air. Warm air holds more moisture than colder air. Heat helps dry the air and lower humidity during the night cycle. Heat the room at night and exhaust the room periodically to remove this warm/moist air.
Dehumidifier.Very effective in preventing mildew from spreading. Set controls for 40-60% and let run during night cycle.
Hepa filter. Filter the intake with a Hepa filter to eliminate spores from entering room. Inspect and change filter frequently.
Ionizer / Ozone generators. Leak some output to kill airborne pathogens and spores.
* Sulphur burner. These devices vaporize (not burn) elemental sulphur, coat the room with a fine film of sulphur, inhibiting PM spores from germinating. Also inhibits insects to some degree.
Run for 12 hours initially (at night, exhaust blower off, circ fans on), then 1-4 hrs/night thereafter. Some discontinue when buds begin to form, other let it run up to the last week. Very effective prevention
Chemical control:
Chemical control should be considered a last resort. Chemicals should be sprayed only in veg or early flower to prevent absorption into the buds and burning bud hairs. Chemicals may have to be applied repeatedly to be effective, and may take a few days for noticeable results. Use a surfactant to help adhere chemical to leaf surface. Some chemicals are more harmful than others; follow label directions and observe precautions.
Always spot spray first. Spraying individual leaves can be an option.
Note: many chemicals will leave a residue that appears similar to powdery mildew!
* Alkaline water:
Alkaline water can affect powdery mildew, as mildew cannot grow in basic conditions. Mist plants generously with water at 8.0+ pH frequently; discontinue when buds begin to mature to prevent budrot.
[Editor's note: this does work and is effective in late flower. Alkaline water does not seem to affect buds or bud hairs. The effect is temporary, but drastically slows mildew grow and spread. Reapply every 4-5 days.]
Baking soda: Sodium Bicarbonate
"Sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall". Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves, which should be washed off with water before more is applied.
Foliar spray: 15ml / gallon
Potassium Bicarbonate:
"Collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. Very safe, very effective contact fungicide". Kaligreen and Armicarb100.
Garden sulphur:
A common non-toxic spray, sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. Spray young plants weekly before hairs form (or spray lower leaves only), then discontinue. Do not wash off. Note: dried sulphur spray looks similar to mildew. For best results, prune plants in veg/early flower, then spray lower stems and foliage. Warning: can give a sulphur taste if sprayed directly onto buds!
Foliar spray: 15-20ml sulphur powder/Liter water. Keep well mixed when spraying.
Note: will not wash off buds. Re-application may be necessary.
Neem Oil:
Protects and kills mildew by inhibiting respiration; also protects against mites and may improve plant vigor. Results are noticeable in a couple of days.
Pro-silica: (Soluble Silicon)
”… increases resistance to pathogens by accumulating in…(leaf and root) cells of plants, providing a barrier against penetration by invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Foliar applications leave deposits of silicon…on the leaf surface that promote effective physical barriers to…infection.” Pro-silica is alkaline.
Foliar spray: 1 part in 5
SM90:
A natural plant extract in a vegetable oil base.
Foliar spray: 10ml/liter
Copper Sulphate:
"Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium."
Effective one-shot application, but production may be discontinued.
Benomyl: Apply in veg only.
Malatox:
by the chronic:
…”This is a wonder cure. Mildew completely vanishes for up to 7 weeks! Make sure you spray before the first week of flowering.”
Foliar spray: 2.5ml per liter of water.
Biological controls:
Unpasterized milk:
Note: must be fresh, not store bought (which is pasturized). Diltute 10 parts water to 1 part milk. Works, although the milk may smell.
AQ10:
A biofungicide. Ampelomyces quisqualis is a fungus that "parasites the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time." Effective only in initial stages of infection.
Plant Shield:
Plant Shield is a foliar spray (General Hydroponics), which kills many types of leaf and root fungus. Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. Safe to use. Takes 2-10 days.
Serenade:
"The fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is effective and easy to spray or use as a dip". Contact fungicide.
Preventative gardening techniques can be effective in defending against powdery mildew.
Dont water plants at night. Reduce or stop watering before the lights have gone out to help evaporate and reduce room humidity.
Reduce plant density. Spread plants apart to improve air circulation. Don’t place plants directly against walls or into corners, typically areas of poor air circulation. Pull plants 6”-1’ away from walls or reflective surfaces.
Pruning. Remove the lowest leaves as the plants mature and prune the bottom 1/3 of the plant during veg to increase airflow inside the lower canopy. Remove all unnecessary growth. Put an oscillating fan down low to blow through this pruned area.
Foliar feeding. Foliar feeding can sometimes cause excessive nighttime humidity levels. Discontinue if mildew appears.
Harvest early if mildew is a problem.
Environmental control:
Improving growroom conditions is an excellent way to passively prevent and minimize damage by powdery mildew.
Monitor humidity levels. A quality humidity gauge should be used to monitor day and night r.h levels. Avoid prolonged high humidity levels: 50-60% r.h is ideal. Humidity must be kept below 70% during the night; levels over 80% will guarantee infection within 48 hrs.
Ventilation. Constant air movement inhibits mildew, and lowers humidity. Use oscillating fans on all sides of a garden to circulate the air. Ventilate air out of the grow room periodically during the night cycle to reduce humidity from irrigation and transpiration.
Note: Once mildew is established, oscillating fans may actually spread spores throughout the garden. Stop fans, treat infected areas, and then resume airflow.
Heat night air. Warm air holds more moisture than colder air. Heat helps dry the air and lower humidity during the night cycle. Heat the room at night and exhaust the room periodically to remove this warm/moist air.
Dehumidifier.Very effective in preventing mildew from spreading. Set controls for 40-60% and let run during night cycle.
Hepa filter. Filter the intake with a Hepa filter to eliminate spores from entering room. Inspect and change filter frequently.
Ionizer / Ozone generators. Leak some output to kill airborne pathogens and spores.
* Sulphur burner. These devices vaporize (not burn) elemental sulphur, coat the room with a fine film of sulphur, inhibiting PM spores from germinating. Also inhibits insects to some degree.
Run for 12 hours initially (at night, exhaust blower off, circ fans on), then 1-4 hrs/night thereafter. Some discontinue when buds begin to form, other let it run up to the last week. Very effective prevention
Chemical control:
Chemical control should be considered a last resort. Chemicals should be sprayed only in veg or early flower to prevent absorption into the buds and burning bud hairs. Chemicals may have to be applied repeatedly to be effective, and may take a few days for noticeable results. Use a surfactant to help adhere chemical to leaf surface. Some chemicals are more harmful than others; follow label directions and observe precautions.
Always spot spray first. Spraying individual leaves can be an option.
Note: many chemicals will leave a residue that appears similar to powdery mildew!
* Alkaline water:
Alkaline water can affect powdery mildew, as mildew cannot grow in basic conditions. Mist plants generously with water at 8.0+ pH frequently; discontinue when buds begin to mature to prevent budrot.
[Editor's note: this does work and is effective in late flower. Alkaline water does not seem to affect buds or bud hairs. The effect is temporary, but drastically slows mildew grow and spread. Reapply every 4-5 days.]
Baking soda: Sodium Bicarbonate
"Sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall". Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves, which should be washed off with water before more is applied.
Foliar spray: 15ml / gallon
Potassium Bicarbonate:
"Collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. Very safe, very effective contact fungicide". Kaligreen and Armicarb100.
Garden sulphur:
A common non-toxic spray, sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. Spray young plants weekly before hairs form (or spray lower leaves only), then discontinue. Do not wash off. Note: dried sulphur spray looks similar to mildew. For best results, prune plants in veg/early flower, then spray lower stems and foliage. Warning: can give a sulphur taste if sprayed directly onto buds!
Foliar spray: 15-20ml sulphur powder/Liter water. Keep well mixed when spraying.
Note: will not wash off buds. Re-application may be necessary.
Neem Oil:
Protects and kills mildew by inhibiting respiration; also protects against mites and may improve plant vigor. Results are noticeable in a couple of days.
Pro-silica: (Soluble Silicon)
”… increases resistance to pathogens by accumulating in…(leaf and root) cells of plants, providing a barrier against penetration by invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Foliar applications leave deposits of silicon…on the leaf surface that promote effective physical barriers to…infection.” Pro-silica is alkaline.
Foliar spray: 1 part in 5
SM90:
A natural plant extract in a vegetable oil base.
Foliar spray: 10ml/liter
Copper Sulphate:
"Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium."
Effective one-shot application, but production may be discontinued.
Benomyl: Apply in veg only.
Malatox:
by the chronic:
…”This is a wonder cure. Mildew completely vanishes for up to 7 weeks! Make sure you spray before the first week of flowering.”
Foliar spray: 2.5ml per liter of water.
Biological controls:
Unpasterized milk:
Note: must be fresh, not store bought (which is pasturized). Diltute 10 parts water to 1 part milk. Works, although the milk may smell.
AQ10:
A biofungicide. Ampelomyces quisqualis is a fungus that "parasites the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time." Effective only in initial stages of infection.
Plant Shield:
Plant Shield is a foliar spray (General Hydroponics), which kills many types of leaf and root fungus. Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. Safe to use. Takes 2-10 days.
Serenade:
"The fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is effective and easy to spray or use as a dip". Contact fungicide.
abudsmoker
Well-Known Member
Koppert Biological Systems is a bio lab here in usa. i treat with spidex
phytoseius persimilis for spider mites they are a excellent lab to get live predators this
phytoseius persimilis for spider mites they are a excellent lab to get live predators this
abudsmoker
Well-Known Member
Koppert Biological Systems is a bio lab here in usa. i treat with spidex
phytoseius persimilis for spider mites
they are a excellent lab to get live predators
with the first onset of infestations you need to take action imeaditly to gain con trol
phytoseius persimilis for spider mites
they are a excellent lab to get live predators
with the first onset of infestations you need to take action imeaditly to gain con trol
nongreenthumb
Well-Known Member
In answer to the question you asked yourself an hour ago, yes you did send it