More Vero 18 vs less 29 for 4x8

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
Efficiency is what pushes our capabilities and brings down our cost to produce. So it is a significant factor for people like me that find the science far more interesting than the product or those producing for profit. Otherwise we would all be running a 600w hps and getting a gram per watt. Personally, I rarely ever even use it, I just enjoy growing. If someone found a way to start growing with lasers I may be the first sucker on board just to see it work.

I'm glad you mentioned quantum boards. This is something else I've been looking at implementing as well, but quite honestly, I havent seen anyone create an application I feel had a significant advantage over all cobs. I'm sure someone on here has a set up I would change my mind. That's why I love this forum.
I'm not immune to efficiency, for me it has been critical in terms of less heat, and having more light coverage within the limited amps I have running to my grow space -- that's why I'm running cobs. Now that I'm using cobs which one performs a small percentage better than the next is not my primary concern, but I appreciate it. I'm not producing for profit, I have a very small set up and I'm always working to get the best quality first, and decent quantities second.

I run 12 v18s at @40 watts in a 3x3, fully plan to run 29 s but v18s are for guys like me who are budget minded and mainly growing for quality over quantity. Be sure to mix 3500k with 3000k.
If you've got the cash though, don't kid yourself and run the Vero 29s
It'll save you money in the long run because you'll eventually want to upgrade.
I'm one of the many people trying to find a single cob or combination of cobs that can be used from start to finish. About a year ago it seemed everyone was leaning on the spectrum charts and on paper 4000k looked like had the broadest coverage. I did a run one or two under just 4000k and they went well. If you have limited height in your grow space, I think it helps to keep the plants more compact. Now I'm playing with a 4000/3500k mix. I think they all work to one degree or another, I do wonder what the effect of running (for instance) 3000k vs 4000k start to finish has on quality and potency might be? I've read different opinions and experiences, and it makes me wonder if perhaps some other factors are coming into play, for example maybe Indica dominant plants prefer one and Sativa's another, so people are authentically having different results but its not just the lights in play.

I wouldn't call the 18s a dinosaur I run 16 of them with 500w per 4x4 and pull over 2lbs dry and cured per 4x4.
That pic is only week 3 flower View attachment 4039047
Sorry, I wasn't referring to the Vero 18's, more my (now out of business?) Optic pre-made lights. They were my first cobs, before I got the courage to build my own. They ran them hot in a "lunch box" case, and offered "optics" to magnify the light. Ironically, I don't use the optics, I find they over-concentrate the light making the distance for the light kind of touchy.


It seems we all find our sweet spot with the economics and function of fewer more intense or more gentler lights spread out. The cost of heatsinks and complexity, weight, and bulkiness of lots of little lights has made me shy away. Cree 3070's or Citi 1212's running at around 50w seems to be a compromise that works for me (but again, I'm working in small spaces). I'm still on the fence about kelvin, and I'm rebuilding one of my lights again -- I have the shopping cart full -- but haven't pulled the trigger because I'm questioning my assumptions about which lights used full run produce the best quality meds.
 
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Shawndeadhead

Well-Known Member
I'm not immune to efficiency, for me it has been critical in terms of less heat, and having more light coverage within the limited amps I have running to my grow space -- that's why I'm running cobs. Now that I'm using cobs which one performs a small percentage better than the next is not my primary concern, but I appreciate it. I'm not producing for profit, I have a very small set up and I'm always working to get the best quality first, and decent quantities second.



I'm one of the many people trying to find a single cob or combination of cobs that can be used from start to finish. About a year ago it seemed everyone was leaning on the spectrum charts and on paper 4000k looked like had the broadest coverage. I did a run one or two under just 4000k and they went well. If you have limited height in your grow space, I think it helps to keep the plants more compact. Now I'm playing with a 4000/3500k mix. I think they all work to one degree or another, I do wonder what the effect of running (for instance) 3000k vs 4000k start to finish has on quality and potency might be? I've read different opinions and experiences, and it makes me wonder if perhaps some other factors are coming into play, for example maybe Indica dominant plants prefer one and Sativa's another, so people are authentically having different results but its not just the lights in play.



Sorry, I wasn't referring to the Vero 18's, more my (now out of business?) Optic pre-made lights. They were my first cobs, before I got the courage to build my own. They ran them hot in a "lunch box" case, and offered "optics" to magnify the light. Ironically, I don't use the optics, I find they over-concentrate the light making the distance for the light kind of touchy.


It seems we all find our sweet spot with the economics and function of fewer more intense or more gentler lights spread out. The cost of heatsinks and complexity, weight, and bulkiness of lots of little lights has made me shy away. Cree 3070's or Citi 1212's running at around 50w seems to be a compromise that works for me (but again, I'm working in small spaces). I'm still on the fence about kelvin, and I'm rebuilding one of my lights again -- I have the shopping cart full -- but haven't pulled the trigger because I'm questioning my assumptions about which lights used full run produce the best quality meds.
Actually my Vero's are gen6 so they are close to dinosaurs by now compared to the gen7s lol. I don't know why I was so hellbent on putting in 1 cob per sqft but for whatever reason I was so it just came to economics for me, could use slightly more affordable heatsinks, and 18s half cost of 29s.
Plus when going over bridgelux data sheets on the veros 18s and 29s were actually very close on light output.
 

HarryCooter

Well-Known Member
I'm not immune to efficiency, for me it has been critical in terms of less heat, and having more light coverage within the limited amps I have running to my grow space -- that's why I'm running cobs. Now that I'm using cobs which one performs a small percentage better than the next is not my primary concern, but I appreciate it. I'm not producing for profit, I have a very small set up and I'm always working to get the best quality first, and decent quantities second.



I'm one of the many people trying to find a single cob or combination of cobs that can be used from start to finish. About a year ago it seemed everyone was leaning on the spectrum charts and on paper 4000k looked like had the broadest coverage. I did a run one or two under just 4000k and they went well. If you have limited height in your grow space, I think it helps to keep the plants more compact. Now I'm playing with a 4000/3500k mix. I think they all work to one degree or another, I do wonder what the effect of running (for instance) 3000k vs 4000k start to finish has on quality and potency might be? I've read different opinions and experiences, and it makes me wonder if perhaps some other factors are coming into play, for example maybe Indica dominant plants prefer one and Sativa's another, so people are authentically having different results but its not just the lights in play.



Sorry, I wasn't referring to the Vero 18's, more my (now out of business?) Optic pre-made lights. They were my first cobs, before I got the courage to build my own. They ran them hot in a "lunch box" case, and offered "optics" to magnify the light. Ironically, I don't use the optics, I find they over-concentrate the light making the distance for the light kind of touchy.


It seems we all find our sweet spot with the economics and function of fewer more intense or more gentler lights spread out. The cost of heatsinks and complexity, weight, and bulkiness of lots of little lights has made me shy away. Cree 3070's or Citi 1212's running at around 50w seems to be a compromise that works for me (but again, I'm working in small spaces). I'm still on the fence about kelvin, and I'm rebuilding one of my lights again -- I have the shopping cart full -- but haven't pulled the trigger because I'm questioning my assumptions about which lights used full run produce the best quality meds.
I fill shopping carts daily, but day after day of research I always question my previous thoughts. I will finally check out someday. I have been stuck on the idea of 3500k and 4000k. That seems to be the optimal range when you look at all the documentation. I'm still torn, both theories have been somewhat confirmed through the experience of all of you. I sincerely appreciate all input here. Obviously the 7th gen 18's are another animal vs the 6th gen, so it still may be worth trying, but for future expansion purposes the 29's make sense. Does anyone have any direct experience with a 4x8 room and 18 or less 7th gen 29's? Realistically, what is the effective spread? If it's somewhat isolated, then it would still make complete sense to go with the 18's given the efficiency difference is only roughly 5 lumens per watt. Given that your intentions are to create an even canopy.
 

morgwar

Well-Known Member
I wish I could help you on the 4x8 spread, but for now I will say my Vero 18 gen7s have plenty of penetration unless you are completely overcrowded. (And that's without lenses).
Personally I would go with the 18s running slightly hot or with oversized drivers dimmed down, then replace the side and end lights with 29s every other light as more funds become available.
You might find that the 18s are all you need.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Yea, if someone has a Vero18 rig and it provides the light level they want they're gold. As far as intensity and penetration Vero18 can do anything Vero29 or any other chip can. I think that's the main thing. No need to rebuild a perfectly good system for the sake of efficiency alone. Cost for a new build can offset efficiency savings over time. Do the math and see if it's worth it.
 

Shawndeadhead

Well-Known Member
BTW the Vero 13s make really good veg and mother lights
I wish I could help you on the 4x8 spread, but for now I will say my Vero 18 gen7s have plenty of penetration unless you are completely overcrowded. (And that's without lenses).
Personally I would go with the 18s running slightly hot or with oversized drivers dimmed down, then replace the side and end lights with 29s every other light as more funds become available.
You might find that the 18s are all you need.
Vero18sIMG_20171102_000241.jpg
 

E2DX

Member
BTW the Vero 13s make really good veg and mother lights

Vero18sView attachment 4039396
Let me get this straight your using 16x Vero18's in a 4x4 tent, 8-3000K and 8-4000k? I'm planing on same setup in a 4x4 with no reflectors. Only diver i found to run 8cobs per driver is HVGC-320-1050A about 40w each cob. What kinda of PAR readings you getting?
 
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Shawndeadhead

Well-Known Member
Let me get this straight your using 16x Vero18's in a 4x4 tent, 8-3000K and 8-4000k? I'm planing on same setup in a 4x4 with no reflectors. Only diver i found to run 8cobs per driver is HVGC-320-1050A about 40w each cob. What kinda of PAR readings you getting?
The meanwell HLG-240-1050s will run 8 of them at 1050 mAh at 31.5w per cob, I use 2 of the 240s in the 4x4 though I'm getting ready to expand and next lights I build will use the 2 of the 320s instead of the 240s
I would honestly go with the
reflectors you will get a more even spread and more intense light. I'll post some of my numbers from a simple Lux app and dongle first ones are with reflectors and spread last few without you will see the drops and hotspots IMG_20171111_004919.jpg Screenshot_20171117-005714.png Screenshot_20171117-005711.png Screenshot_20171117-005623.png Screenshot_20171117-005655.png Screenshot_20171117-005639.png Screenshot_20171117-005745.png Screenshot_20171117-005658.png
 

E2DX

Member
Thanks for the info much appreciated, not to much info about the vero18's at first was thinking of 4x 100w vero29c 3500K with a light mover in a 4x4 LOL But the added cost of a light mover could get 2 more and another driver and worry about even light spread. Then I found out about some vero18's and wanted to do the same set up 1 COB per sq/ft, but the HGL 240H is $65USD each vs $100 for the 320H. This is getting sort of frustrating for me, so many different config possibilities. Vero29C are about $33 each while the V18's are $12 each, then you have to have a way to cool them and passive heatsinks are not all that cheap neither are cpu cooler esp when your adding 16 of them. To negate the cost of heatsinks Im going to buy 40x40x12mm water blocks off aliexpress for $3 each and water cool them. Its all just options now mabe someone else can chime in...500w are doing really well for you, I'm just a noob so its more then adequate for me. As for the 4x4 i plan on using airpots in coco with Blumat drippers in a scrog or just use autos in a kinda perpetual grow.

My apologies for the rambling, Its going to be a few months before I get everything ready to sprout some beans.
 

Shawndeadhead

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info much appreciated, not to much info about the vero18's at first was thinking of 4x 100w vero29c 3500K with a light mover in a 4x4 LOL But the added cost of a light mover could get 2 more and another driver and worry about even light spread. Then I found out about some vero18's and wanted to do the same set up 1 COB per sq/ft, but the HGL 240H is $65USD each vs $100 for the 320H. This is getting sort of frustrating for me, so many different config possibilities. Vero29C are about $33 each while the V18's are $12 each, then you have to have a way to cool them and passive heatsinks are not all that cheap neither are cpu cooler esp when your adding 16 of them. To negate the cost of heatsinks Im going to buy 40x40x12mm water blocks off aliexpress for $3 each and water cool them. Its all just options now mabe someone else can chime in...500w are doing really well for you, I'm just a noob so its more then adequate for me. As for the 4x4 i plan on using airpots in coco with Blumat drippers in a scrog or just use autos in a kinda perpetual grow.

My apologies for the rambling, Its going to be a few months before I get everything ready to sprout some beans.
Biggest reason I went with the 18s was the price and no matter if we are pushing them at 30w or 40w heatsinks are affordable. I run my passive and only paid about $9 each. Aavid thermoalloy heatsinks for vero 18, think the model number is calcl019 .
If you look at the data that bridgelux gives us in all those PDFs, the 18s are actually fairly close to what the vero 29s are pushing in brightness.
They are a lot cheaper, don't get as hot, I hardly have to push my AC during the summer and my exhaust carbon filter is never turned up past 40-50%.
You can get them super close I easily go within 8-10" of canopy without burning or bleaching but I get huge rock hard nugs up top and decent light penetration. Though I'm not to worried about the 2nd one as I put in 25 plants per 4x4.
 

Shawndeadhead

Well-Known Member
Here's a link to
Thanks for the info much appreciated, not to much info about the vero18's at first was thinking of 4x 100w vero29c 3500K with a light mover in a 4x4 LOL But the added cost of a light mover could get 2 more and another driver and worry about even light spread. Then I found out about some vero18's and wanted to do the same set up 1 COB per sq/ft, but the HGL 240H is $65USD each vs $100 for the 320H. This is getting sort of frustrating for me, so many different config possibilities. Vero29C are about $33 each while the V18's are $12 each, then you have to have a way to cool them and passive heatsinks are not all that cheap neither are cpu cooler esp when your adding 16 of them. To negate the cost of heatsinks Im going to buy 40x40x12mm water blocks off aliexpress for $3 each and water cool them. Its all just options now mabe someone else can chime in...500w are doing really well for you, I'm just a noob so its more then adequate for me. As for the 4x4 i plan on using airpots in coco with Blumat drippers in a scrog or just use autos in a kinda perpetual grow.

My apologies for the rambling, Its going to be a few months before I get everything ready to sprout some beans.
Here is a link to those heatsinks, http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/electromechanical/thermal-management/heatsinks-accessories/Pages/5016822-HSLCS-CALBL-019.aspx?IM=0
$10 each I talked to manufacture and they said these will work passively up to 41 watts or so I believe it mine are at 31.5 w and the heatsink is barley warm.
They have larger ones that can handle the 29s also but of course more expensive. I think with the 18s it's truly a great compromise between value and not giving up all that much compared to the extra costs of the 29s.
 

mrNLK

New Member
Do you know what your CoB efficiency is running at 31.5W? Everything looks great, keep up the good work!
 

Shawndeadhead

Well-Known Member
Do you know what your CoB efficiency is running at 31.5W? Everything looks great, keep up the good work!
I think the bridgelux Data sheets on those pushing the 1050 mAh coming off my driver was around 139 lm/watt on the 3000k and the 4000k are 157 lm/watt. Now these are Gen6 Vero 18s the Gen 7s have even better #s
 

boybelue

Well-Known Member
Here's a link to

Here is a link to those heatsinks, http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/electromechanical/thermal-management/heatsinks-accessories/Pages/5016822-HSLCS-CALBL-019.aspx?IM=0
$10 each I talked to manufacture and they said these will work passively up to 41 watts or so I believe it mine are at 31.5 w and the heatsink is barley warm.
They have larger ones that can handle the 29s also but of course more expensive. I think with the 18s it's truly a great compromise between value and not giving up all that much compared to the extra costs of the 29s.
Are you still using those same heatsinks?
 
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