You're right, but also a tiny bit wrong about equivalent bulbs. The reason equivalent values are redundant is because the companies producing the bulbs are left to decide what 'equivalent' watt values they can assign to their bulbs. All we know for certain is the actual watt value the bulbs draw. HPS companies could compare their bulbs to florescent tubes and say their 400w bulbs are equivalent to 2000w of florescent bulbs. It gets a little hairy, confusing, and misleading. That's why CFL growers only count the actual (or true) watts they provide their plants with. I'm still not sure how many true watts you're using.
For growers, the general rule of thumb (and of course there are exceptions to this rule) is to provide each flowering plant you have with at least 100 watts (actual) of light (either CFL, HPS, MH, LED, etc, etc..). Make sure it's the right spectrum for the current grow cycle of the plant and you're on your way. As you said, CFLs are great for positioning all around the plant, and in much closer proximity to the plant itself because they don't produce much heat. You can also add more bulbs to your grow environment when you can afford to buy them throughout your grow.
If you get given free bulbs, and they're of the right spectrum you need (6400K during veg, 2700k during flower), I would use them too. And yes, it's a total shame electricity companies don't send their customers HPS lighting with ballasts and reflectors! That would be sweet.
I commend you on the small amount of investment you've made into your grow. It doesn't always take hundreds of dollars to get a decent setup going, and it's always great to see growers on a tight budget producing decent yields. I do hope you get a decent crop and I'll be following your grow.
I'm sorry for calling you an amateur. That wasn't cool.