My first DIY growbox and grow, need some help!
- Thread starter tmsculli
- Start date
LowEnder
Member
Most nutrient companies do not sell directly to the public. So you either need to find a local hydro shop or buy online from a distributer/shop. If you are in any major city you should have hydroponic shops locally. Here where I live there is probably 15 shops all over the area. Just do a google search for it, you might be surprised. The issues people have with buying online usually comes into play with larger setups than what you are dealing with. The amount of nutrients, 1L sizes, you will be buying will not send off any red flags. If you are worried at all just do the prepaid credit card, like you said, and have it sent to someone elses house. I always like the excuse to be sending boxes to someone elses house without telling them what you are sending, "its a present for my girlfriend and don't want to have it sent to the house" People don't think twice about that reasoning and don't expect you to open the box. Also, most shops online send packages discreetly, atleast the ones I've dealt with.
Here is my assesment on nutrients I've used:
General Hydroponics - 3 part
- Good cheaper nutrients for beginners
- They have great additives sets that are simple to go along with the 3 part setup
Biotanicare Pro Blend
- inExpensive single part
- great for soil, I've never used it with hydro, but assume its just as good.
- can be used for both hydro and soil
Canna Aqua - 2 part
- Pricey compared to other nutrients on the market, but like they say you get what you paid for
- Very stable with pH
- Noticeably better results compared to the GH line
I guess I do a quick overview of what you dealing with hydroponic nutrients in a bubbleponics setup:
1) Price - How much you are wanting to pay, since this is your first grow you can go anywhere with it. You can go with something cheap and get good results or you can spend allot more and more than likely see the difference in what you spend.
2) Parts - Most companies separate out the different nutrients, micro and macro, that the plants need. But you can find single part nutrients that will do very well. Some companies feel its nessary to separate out all the different parts, 6 parts+, to get everything you want for a healthy diet. This might be for money issues, meaning they just want you to spend more money on their products, might be something more scientific. For you it would probably be best to go with one of the 1-2 part nutrients, because of ease of use.
3) pH stability - The pH of your hydroponic water should be between 5.3-6.5, or something like that, so you will need to pH balance the nutrient mixed before you add it to the reservoir. Some nutrients are way more stable than others and some take constant adjusting.
4) Concentration - Not too sure how much variety there is about this in the market, but I know with the GH and the Canna you should be able to get a couple small grows out of the small, 1 liter, container.
That's probably way more than what you wanted to know or maybe not.
Here is my assesment on nutrients I've used:
General Hydroponics - 3 part
- Good cheaper nutrients for beginners
- They have great additives sets that are simple to go along with the 3 part setup
Biotanicare Pro Blend
- inExpensive single part
- great for soil, I've never used it with hydro, but assume its just as good.
- can be used for both hydro and soil
Canna Aqua - 2 part
- Pricey compared to other nutrients on the market, but like they say you get what you paid for
- Very stable with pH
- Noticeably better results compared to the GH line
I guess I do a quick overview of what you dealing with hydroponic nutrients in a bubbleponics setup:
1) Price - How much you are wanting to pay, since this is your first grow you can go anywhere with it. You can go with something cheap and get good results or you can spend allot more and more than likely see the difference in what you spend.
2) Parts - Most companies separate out the different nutrients, micro and macro, that the plants need. But you can find single part nutrients that will do very well. Some companies feel its nessary to separate out all the different parts, 6 parts+, to get everything you want for a healthy diet. This might be for money issues, meaning they just want you to spend more money on their products, might be something more scientific. For you it would probably be best to go with one of the 1-2 part nutrients, because of ease of use.
3) pH stability - The pH of your hydroponic water should be between 5.3-6.5, or something like that, so you will need to pH balance the nutrient mixed before you add it to the reservoir. Some nutrients are way more stable than others and some take constant adjusting.
4) Concentration - Not too sure how much variety there is about this in the market, but I know with the GH and the Canna you should be able to get a couple small grows out of the small, 1 liter, container.
That's probably way more than what you wanted to know or maybe not.
tmsculli
Well-Known Member
There is never too much information my friend, thanks for the GREAT reply. Well, since you said 2 part, from your listing it looks like I am going to try and get my hands on some canna aqua 2 part. Besides that I need to get Ph up, PH down, PH text kit, and not too sure what else.
Can you guys kinda help me make a hydro store shopping list?
- Net pots
- Rockwool cubes
- Clay pellets
- Canna Aqua 2 part
- PH up
- PH down
- PH test kit
- Cloning gel (hear clonex is the way to go)
I did find a store nearby, but I am nervous about going. regardless of how how I feel I am going in about an hour haha.
Can you guys kinda help me make a hydro store shopping list?
- Net pots
- Rockwool cubes
- Clay pellets
- Canna Aqua 2 part
- PH up
- PH down
- PH test kit
- Cloning gel (hear clonex is the way to go)
I did find a store nearby, but I am nervous about going. regardless of how how I feel I am going in about an hour haha.
tmsculli
Well-Known Member
I just bought damn near everything else I need. I found a hydro shop about 35 minutes away and it was awesome.
240$ worth of nom noms in my truck. I want to bring them in, but there are uninformed persons in my home =/ Ill take a picture of the pile once they leave!
I am so excited!
240$ worth of nom noms in my truck. I want to bring them in, but there are uninformed persons in my home =/ Ill take a picture of the pile once they leave!
I am so excited!
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
the nutrient part is kinda hard thats why i said get a schedule and follow it exact it took me danm near 2 years to start really just understanding it if you need some more help pm me
LowEnder
Member
I have to agree the nutrient part is the most complicated aspect of growing. If you did end up getting the canna line of nutrients, you can go to http://www.canna-hydroponics.com/wrapper/1 and get a schedule setup for what you are doing.
Something that isn't on your list is a ppm/ec meter of some sorts. It is used to determine how much of the nutrients is actually in the water. Having one of these is the best method for figuring out how much more nutrients water or plain water is needed at the moment. Also, a plastic syringe with a tube attached seems to be the easiest method of measuring out nutrients, can get these at any hydro shop.
I run a 2 week reservoir that goes something like this.
1) Start out with dechlorinated water, tap water that has sat out for 24+ hours or RO water, do a ppm/ec reading of just the water so that you get a base level of what your water is. If your tap water is above 200-250ppm you might want to consider using RO water or some other clean source.
2) For the first time to gauge how much of the nutrient you will need to add, to get to the appropriate ppm required for the stage of growth you are in, add only half of what is suggested on the nutrient bottle.
So if you start out with 200ppm water and you need 1400ppm. When you added the nutrients the ppm comes out to 1200ppm. That means that there is 1000ppm of nutrient solution in the water. So you will only need to add just under a quarter of what is suggested on the bottle to come out with 1400ppm. Once you have figured out how much it takes to get to that ppm you should be able to do that step really quick.
3) Once you have got the ppm set, it is time to set the pH. You will need to try to get it as close as you can to 5.8. If you using the pH test kit, you will not be able to get it perfect, so just get it as close as you can. It not a big deal to have it off a bit in either direction. That is why there is a range that is acceptable.
4) Now your water is ready to go into the reservoir. Check the pH everyday to make sure it hasn't spiked. But most pH adjustments will be done when you add more water to the reservoir, just adjust the pH of what you are adding to the res to compensate for how far off the pH is. With canna I don't really seem to have any issues, it seems to self regulate within the correct range. I guess thats why there are these things called pH stabilizers added to their stuff.
5) I do a schedule of full strength nurtient res fill -> top off res with plain water -> top off res with half strength nutrient solution -> top off res with plain water -> top off res with half strength nutrient solution... and so on for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks dump whats in the res and start all over again with clean full strength nutrients.
6) With small plants you wont be adding very much water to the top offs but once the plants start to get going they will start sucking down allot more. Just keep an eye on it and you will soon be able to guess how often and how much water you will need to be adding. Make sure you don't forget and let it go dry or anything, can hurt plants quick. I lost a huge one the other day because I'm space case.
Thats all I feel like writing right now. What else you need to know or don't understand?
Something that isn't on your list is a ppm/ec meter of some sorts. It is used to determine how much of the nutrients is actually in the water. Having one of these is the best method for figuring out how much more nutrients water or plain water is needed at the moment. Also, a plastic syringe with a tube attached seems to be the easiest method of measuring out nutrients, can get these at any hydro shop.
I run a 2 week reservoir that goes something like this.
1) Start out with dechlorinated water, tap water that has sat out for 24+ hours or RO water, do a ppm/ec reading of just the water so that you get a base level of what your water is. If your tap water is above 200-250ppm you might want to consider using RO water or some other clean source.
2) For the first time to gauge how much of the nutrient you will need to add, to get to the appropriate ppm required for the stage of growth you are in, add only half of what is suggested on the nutrient bottle.
So if you start out with 200ppm water and you need 1400ppm. When you added the nutrients the ppm comes out to 1200ppm. That means that there is 1000ppm of nutrient solution in the water. So you will only need to add just under a quarter of what is suggested on the bottle to come out with 1400ppm. Once you have figured out how much it takes to get to that ppm you should be able to do that step really quick.
3) Once you have got the ppm set, it is time to set the pH. You will need to try to get it as close as you can to 5.8. If you using the pH test kit, you will not be able to get it perfect, so just get it as close as you can. It not a big deal to have it off a bit in either direction. That is why there is a range that is acceptable.
4) Now your water is ready to go into the reservoir. Check the pH everyday to make sure it hasn't spiked. But most pH adjustments will be done when you add more water to the reservoir, just adjust the pH of what you are adding to the res to compensate for how far off the pH is. With canna I don't really seem to have any issues, it seems to self regulate within the correct range. I guess thats why there are these things called pH stabilizers added to their stuff.
5) I do a schedule of full strength nurtient res fill -> top off res with plain water -> top off res with half strength nutrient solution -> top off res with plain water -> top off res with half strength nutrient solution... and so on for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks dump whats in the res and start all over again with clean full strength nutrients.
6) With small plants you wont be adding very much water to the top offs but once the plants start to get going they will start sucking down allot more. Just keep an eye on it and you will soon be able to guess how often and how much water you will need to be adding. Make sure you don't forget and let it go dry or anything, can hurt plants quick. I lost a huge one the other day because I'm space case.
Thats all I feel like writing right now. What else you need to know or don't understand?
tmsculli
Well-Known Member
I ended up getting Humboldt system nutrients
BUTTT
I have a problem! In making my bubble container, I was putting in a drain, and now I think I may have screwed myself. I drilled my hole at the bottom side, and had a male and female portion of a pvc connection set up to screw them into eachother from either side of the wall of the tub and make it tight. sadly, the threads won't continue any more, so I can't get it to work.
How can I set this up??!
BUTTT
I have a problem! In making my bubble container, I was putting in a drain, and now I think I may have screwed myself. I drilled my hole at the bottom side, and had a male and female portion of a pvc connection set up to screw them into eachother from either side of the wall of the tub and make it tight. sadly, the threads won't continue any more, so I can't get it to work.
How can I set this up??!
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
you got it i would get 1 for each side. also if you dont have any you may want to get some marine grade sealer or caulk IMHO. when you get it built fill it up and run it and see if it has any leaks from were you put the rubber washers if so seal it or try adding two of the washers either may you may need it. and when i said follow the feeding schedule exact i meant like in the humboldt if you got the schedule you want to use all the ones it says even if its a different companys as long as you add it and always start with half strength and work your way up. better to not put enough than to put to much. by the way wich one did you go with and do you have a schedule if not you can get it off the website or the store should have one of some sort
tmsculli
Well-Known Member
I actually found a piece of styrofoam and cut it into a bushing and it works well, no leaks! My question is this...
I have the air pump from Walmart that everyone says to get. I actually bought two of them. I made the 5 gallon bucket with two air stones in it and one seems to be bubbling kind of weak. In the big tub, I feel like I may not have enough bubbles total. Should I just get bigger/nicer airstones? Is that all I need to fix this?
ill attach pictures in a minute
I have the air pump from Walmart that everyone says to get. I actually bought two of them. I made the 5 gallon bucket with two air stones in it and one seems to be bubbling kind of weak. In the big tub, I feel like I may not have enough bubbles total. Should I just get bigger/nicer airstones? Is that all I need to fix this?
ill attach pictures in a minute
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
post the pics ill give you my opinion wat program did you get from humboldt
LowEnder
Member
The air pump should have come with a cutoff valve that fits on to the tube and allows you to close off the air slightly to the stone that is getting more air, it will even out the bubbling a bit.
Just add more stones if you think you need more bubbles. I tend to go with the flat strip bubblers, since they spread the bubbles over a larger area.
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
i do prefer the 18" long blue ones or the big 3 to 5" round ones
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
i prefer the 18" long blue 1s or the big 3 to 5" round 1s they seem to work the best
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
wow how did that happen
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
wow how did that post get in this thread
grodrowithme
Well-Known Member
looks good though you may have to go with a bigger pump and for sure a bigger stone thats for your mother right and the check valves should came with that pump those are the same pumps we got to airate our resivours