My Growitup GreenHouse. Under construction.

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Murfy said:
i can tell you are detail orientated!

nice job -very professional looking results-
looking for a job?

you are going to have alot of fun with this!
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Thanks Murfy, Im always lookin for a job, lol

BooMeR242 said:
ya it was 4 plants and it was about 8ft by 6ft

support sounds good to me ill be followin and jump in anytime i think i can help
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Cool man.

mrduke said:
did you ever think of a pvc pipe/visqueen greenhouse? I was over fooling around on youtube and saw a ton of them pretty cool and cheap too, like 300$ for a 12x12
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Yea thats where I started. I couldnt find what I wanted. Then I started looking for DIY stuff. I found this LINK really pretty cool, How to make one out of shower doors. Once I decided I was going to build it I kinda made it custom for the yard.
 
with visqueen anything is possible
back in the 80's we would cut trees to make an 8' stake and staple gun that shit around and over it and hold leaves up and paint over them to camo a little and just leave the thing all year- weed would be poking out of it everywhere

BUT there's no way to lock it
 
We got started on the electrical today, going to set all the boxes and run line inside the greenhouse then run the service line to the breaker box. I decided to have the box inside for security.

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Got a main with two 20 amp breakers, One circuit goes to the switch and overhead socket for a green light bulb. That line continues and drops down on the far wall to 4 outlets.
The light and one set of outlets will work off the switch and the second set will be constant.
The second circuit will be constant power to the lower plug, and outside plug for the water shed (yet to be built) then run down the back wall to the far corner of the far wall.


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OK, what am I forgetting...​
 

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lol...In spite of the lack of actual outlets, it looks good! hehe What's next after the electrical is done?
 
What I got in mind for the water shed.
That side of the house gets no sun at all in the summer so its like 15° cooler than anywhere in the yard. I want to take that cool air and with an attic fan I got thats like 1600 CFM blow through the shed keeping the water somewhat cooler.

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My bud is getting me an r/o for half price straight from a supplier. We should have it tomorrow. Gotta get some more lumber but I want to run the water and electric first.
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cruzer101 said:
We got started on the electrical today, going to set all the boxes and run line inside the greenhouse then run the service line to the breaker box. I decided to have the box inside for security.

attachment.php


Got a main with two 20 amp breakers, One circuit goes to the switch and overhead socket for a green light bulb. That line continues and drops down on the far wall to 4 outlets.
The light and one set of outlets will work off the switch and the second set will be constant.
The second circuit will be constant power to the lower plug, and outside plug for the water shed (yet to be built) then run down the back wall to the far corner of the far wall.


attachment.php



attachment.php



OK, what am I forgetting...​
Click to expand...

you forgot to use compression fittings on the electrical conduit. water can get into the pipe now, and will cause it to rust out from the inside out after a year or 2, especially on that 90 deg stub up you got on the last pic ;)

always something.......
to save yourself some money, make the first outlet on the circuit (also known as the homerun) a GFCI receptacle, and feed the remaining outlets through the GFCI. that will protect the entire circuit in the event of an electrical mishap.
 
Thats a good idea, run a GFI in the first outlet.
Thanks.

On the end of the conduit I put this little plastic red thing around the conduit part then punched the hole in the box and put a fitting in the hole with another red end, then ran the wire through, pulled it tight and tightened the screw on the fitting that held the red parts together.

Does that sound like compression fitting? Cause thats what we used on the boxes. I dont have the rigid attached yet. My neighbor has a bender so he bent the pipe. He does this stuff for a living and has been a great help in this project.
 
Sups!

Looking swell! Swell, wutta funny word...hehe! Dun have time to "butter" your ego nemore :mrgreen:, gotta run water my plants, in about 3 hours they will be dried out...

//pce, CaL
 
cruzer101 said:
Thats a good idea, run a GFI in the first outlet.
Thanks.

On the end of the conduit I put this little plastic red thing around the conduit part then punched the hole in the box and put a fitting in the hole with another red end, then ran the wire through, pulled it tight and tightened the screw on the fitting that held the red parts together.

Does that sound like compression fitting? Cause thats what we used on the boxes. I dont have the rigid attached yet. My neighbor has a bender so he bent the pipe. He does this stuff for a living and has been a great help in this project.
Click to expand...

i saw whats called a set screw fitting, you tighten the screws to lock down the coupling. there only supposed to be used indoors. when there is a heavy dew, moisture will condense on the conduit, then run down any vertical piping you have... when it gets to the set screw fitting, some of that water will work its way inside the pipe, the wiring will be unaffected. but the conduit is only galvanized on the outside... let water get to the inside, and it will rust out faster than an old buick.
a compression fitting uses a ring seal to make a watertight connection for running EMT (thats the type of pipe your using) outside. it looks like this:
78275.jpg
 
I was thinking that if you have your AC unit on the same circuit you run other electrical on that the inrush current that happens when you turn the AC on will cause the breaker to activate and kill power to the rest of your load. Might just want to place the AC unit on its own circuit to make sure this doesn't happen. I also noticed you have no fault protection aside from the breakers. If the protection around your wires rusts it may become sharp and then cut through the insulation around your wire. This can cause a short. Depending on where this short happens on your circuit most likely one breaker will see the spike in current and activate. This will kill the power, but doesn't fix the short. If you then re-close the breaker you are risking a big electrical fire via one of your plants shorting a wire to ground. Then you would have to wait for your plant to burn up before the fault would clear. 120V and 10 Amps is enough to start a fire if you short it the right way.

I strongly recommend any measure that will keep water out of your conductor protection. And maybe even investing in a relay that will control your breakers more effectively, rather then the breaker seeing 20Amp and then opening up. The way your circuit is set up there is no way to tell if that current is from a fault/short or from inrush current to the AC.
 
aren't there GFI breakers? makes the whole circuit water resistant-
and for a fancy i think they have them with arc protection also

what are your intentions for the interior-paint sheathing?
moisture may be an issue for untreated MDF/melamine
 
PANGcake said:
Sups!

Looking swell! Swell, wutta funny word...hehe! Dun have time to "butter" your ego nemore :mrgreen:, gotta run water my plants, in about 3 hours they will be dried out...

//pce, CaL
Click to expand...

LOL cool with me Pang, dont let those girls dry out.

IAm5toned said:
i saw whats called a set screw fitting, you tighten the screws to lock down the coupling. there only supposed to be used indoors. when there is a heavy dew, moisture will condense on the conduit, then run down any vertical piping you have... when it gets to the set screw fitting, some of that water will work its way inside the pipe, the wiring will be unaffected. but the conduit is only galvanized on the outside... let water get to the inside, and it will rust out faster than an old buick.
a compression fitting uses a ring seal to make a watertight connection for running EMT (thats the type of pipe your using) outside. it looks like this:
78275.jpg
Click to expand...

Oh, ok. Yea I got some of those for the outside stuff. Thanks man.

Copycat said:
I was thinking that if you have your AC unit on the same circuit you run other electrical on that the inrush current that happens when you turn the AC on will cause the breaker to activate and kill power to the rest of your load. Might just want to place the AC unit on its own circuit to make sure this doesn't happen. I also noticed you have no fault protection aside from the breakers. If the protection around your wires rusts it may become sharp and then cut through the insulation around your wire. This can cause a short. Depending on where this short happens on your circuit most likely one breaker will see the spike in current and activate. This will kill the power, but doesn't fix the short. If you then re-close the breaker you are risking a big electrical fire via one of your plants shorting a wire to ground. Then you would have to wait for your plant to burn up before the fault would clear. 120V and 10 Amps is enough to start a fire if you short it the right way.

I strongly recommend any measure that will keep water out of your conductor protection. And maybe even investing in a relay that will control your breakers more effectively, rather then the breaker seeing 20Amp and then opening up. The way your circuit is set up there is no way to tell if that current is from a fault/short or from inrush current to the AC.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, Im not really sure of what you said but I did think of the ac on one circuit and the fans on another. the line that goes up to the overhead light and across then down, that will be where I plug in the a/c on one side. The other side of that outlet will be on the same circuit but being controlled by the switch I wont have anything that pulls juice on it. Im thinking maybe another small light.

There will not be any water sprayed on the pipe or outlets.

Murfy said:
aren't there GFI breakers? makes the whole circuit water resistant-
and for a fancy i think they have them with arc protection also

what are your intentions for the interior-paint sheathing?
moisture may be an issue for untreated MDF/melamine
Click to expand...


I didnt think of moisture/condensation buildup. I like the GFI idea.

We used material for indoor because I figured it was indoors.
I figured hell Im not gonna get water on the elecrtical, thats going in the pots.

I could get those pipe wraps made from that foam stuff, would that help stop condensation?

I plan on painting the inside walls white. I have some one inch thick styrofoam insulation I will wedge between the studs. Maybe get that done today while I wait for materials.
Maybe get the rigid in place but I dont plan on attaching to the main for at least a few days cause I need to disconnect and Im gonna wait till nobodys home to do it. I want to take my time and do it right.
 
Yea, I did find pvc conduit, schedule 40 stuff.
I ran regular pvc about 15 years ago and ran electrical through it. That runs along the roofline of the house, down and underground for about 30 feet. Never had a problem.
 
Beautiful Greenhouse. I've been looking into building one. But I guess I'm stuck with the tent for a while. Even sat here and read from the very first post until now.

Good luck with finishing it and your future grows within. Not to much longer till May 1st.
 
CacherMaker said:
Beautiful Greenhouse. I've been looking into building one. But I guess I'm stuck with the tent for a while. Even sat here and read from the very first post until now.

Good luck with finishing it and your future grows within. Not to much longer till May 1st.
Click to expand...

Thanks Cacher, Hope you enjoyed the read. I will put a link here to the grow journal if ya wanna hang around.

IAm5toned said:
pvc conduit is fine, it just looks like shit unless you use 100 straps, lol
Click to expand...

I hear ya, check it out...
IMG_0100.JPG


It's been painted twice over the years,

IMG_0101.JPG


bent but not too bad if you hang it every rafter.
This is the route the R/O waste line has to run. Thats why I was asking about it eariler.
I figure if I mount the R/O 5 feet up from the ground and go on about a 70° an angle it will make the run with the drop pulling it along.
 
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