My Linda Seeds Autos why the Strech is not over ore not beginning?

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
COB leds and new Samsung leds best on the market! Medium is Coco

I Grow lot of Autos but you say when food is not optimal it takes longer??? Yeah i feed litte to less i thought not to much of PPM but i read some Pepole push it to 1ppm ore litte higher so i feed her now total of 1,1ppm but in the psst i never feed more then 0,7ppm and no problems but i learning still
Now that you say coco, I might actually be able to offer some more help. Coco should be giving fast, green growth to where you can focus on ither things so long as it is being used peoperly. I see your concern now, these new pics are way different, plant looks rough for a coco plant.

Coco never can dry out, you water to large runoff daily. The only issue that causes coco to need some help is if you are using premade coco or if your water is alternative to decent city tap water.

If so, you might have to play around with calcium/magnesium suppliment which may cause issues or fix any calmg issues.

People feed with high EC, I have seen between 1.0 to 3.0 EC, a lot depends on the nutrient line. Some make you start very high at 3.0. I fed at 2.2EC with no problems due to tap water adding .5 EC with great results.

I remember using RO water just to have rough plants and read threads of old school growers saying simply, that was the growers issue. Tap has mirco nutrients that help the coco and plant much better than RO water IME. So no worries with EC, that is just to gauge feeding doses to give an idea of the feed strength. Which for my nutrient line, that is pretty low. Mine starts at 1.7ec for light feed.


In flower with coco, I feed minimum of twice per day in coco for best results, plant has large roots, it runs through the nutrients fast enough that if you do not feed frequently enough, leaves show signs of “I need more of this or that” which means, feed more frequently. If signs persist, the ratio to pot size and feeding routine (strength/frequency) is off. Small pots get concentrated feed, several times a day. I have not messed with that style yet, just big pots.

So what is your feeding schedule like? Do you add calmg? Anything else? What do you use? I use the below.

DA556341-1880-401F-83AA-54896D41E8E2.png
412E5569-2CAA-459D-B388-D74D49A18043.jpeg

Looks like you did some defoliating or possible pruning. That slows things down for a few days if plant is already having media issues, I only lollipopped and pruned larf suckers at the end of stretch, maybe some select fan leaf removal for a bud site if it cannot be tucked.

So I would say something is up with the media, something weird with the strain too. With coco my leaves stay green until flower, then they can get light burn or act like it needs anything more than just leaving it be but not like what you posted, high powered lighting will make VPD relevant, that should stay close to where it needs to be. Not perfect but close.
 

Fiete

Well-Known Member
Now that you say coco, I might actually be able to offer some more help. Coco should be giving fast, green growth to where you can focus on ither things so long as it is being used peoperly. I see your concern now, these new pics are way different, plant looks rough for a coco plant.

Coco never can dry out, you water to large runoff daily. The only issue that causes coco to need some help is if you are using premade coco or if your water is alternative to decent city tap water.

If so, you might have to play around with calcium/magnesium suppliment which may cause issues or fix any calmg issues.

People feed with high EC, I have seen between 1.0 to 3.0 EC, a lot depends on the nutrient line. Some make you start very high at 3.0. I fed at 2.2EC with no problems due to tap water adding .5 EC with great results.

I remember using RO water just to have rough plants and read threads of old school growers saying simply, that was the growers issue. Tap has mirco nutrients that help the coco and plant much better than RO water IME. So no worries with EC, that is just to gauge feeding doses to give an idea of the feed strength. Which for my nutrient line, that is pretty low. Mine starts at 1.7ec for light feed.


In flower with coco, I feed minimum of twice per day in coco for best results, plant has large roots, it runs through the nutrients fast enough that if you do not feed frequently enough, leaves show signs of “I need more of this or that” which means, feed more frequently. If signs persist, the ratio to pot size and feeding routine (strength/frequency) is off. Small pots get concentrated feed, several times a day. I have not messed with that style yet, just big pots.

So what is your feeding schedule like? Do you add calmg? Anything else? What do you use? I use the below.

View attachment 5258815
View attachment 5258816

Looks like you did some defoliating or possible pruning. That slows things down for a few days if plant is already having media issues, I only lollipopped and pruned larf suckers at the end of stretch, maybe some select fan leaf removal for a bud site if it cannot be tucked.

So I would say something is up with the media, something weird with the strain too. With coco my leaves stay green until flower, then they can get light burn or act like it needs anything more than just leaving it be but not like what you posted, high powered lighting will make VPD relevant, that should stay close to where it needs to be. Not perfect but close.

Hey friend,

I use RO water with cal/mag supply 0,3-0,4 Ec maybe more needed? Then Using general hydroponics 6/9 ratio per gallon is a but i double the ratio but i will add more Ec plant was at the beginning def but i didn't now why i thought Autos not need high Ec but looks isn't true.


I use ATHENA CAL/MAG a friend gave me litte but but I bought a 5l tank cal/mag from canna it's high in dosage maybe i switch to this and throw Athena away?
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Hey friend,

I use RO water with cal/mag supply 0,3-0,4 Ec maybe more needed? Then Using general hydroponics 6/9 ratio per gallon is a but i double the ratio but i will add more Ec plant was at the beginning def but i didn't now why i thought Autos not need high Ec but looks isn't true.


I use ATHENA CAL/MAG a friend gave me litte but but I bought a 5l tank cal/mag from canna it's high in dosage maybe i switch to this and throw Athena away?
I have first few threads basically with that setup of growers saying it was lock out from adding calmg even at 1-2ml per gal, they chewed me out. Was using RO water. Then I found some users use the same feed chart and end up with ibs lol. Sometimes your surroundings shape up the grow for you and just works for you despite others saying ofherwise.

But I had great results just removing the calmg and switching to tap because if it is expected to be safe to drink, it is probably fine. Some have EC of tap water of .7 or .8 so anything below sounds ok. They say hardwater is anything above .2 EC, yea like bottle water quality is coming out your city tap lol if its not super high in anything that would probably alarm people in the area anyway, fine.

What is more important is feeding to enough runoff and enough times a day. If you did not buffer and prepare coco yourself you might have to listen to someone who works with premade coco on what your feed should be with calmg, I find buffering good enough does all the trick and my nutrient line handles the rest.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Like I said, the GH feed charts posted are at 1.7 EC start of flower, they assume you know the added EC from tap is not an issue unless a few exceptions. Calmg is as needed, very obvious when those signs show up when it calls for it because your feeding properly and tried feeding more often already. That brings us to. 2.2 - 2.5 EC in the feed solution at light strength.

It will not hurt the plant, they can have up to the medium or aggressive strength with no issues worth worrying. If I read correct you asked about the same brand I posted. VPD and light intensity can mimick media issues too, vpd chart dot com helps figure that out quick, probably need a dehuey, a good one. Vpd could be why the leaves aren’t perky and happy. Soon leading to shotty markings.

A strong, strong light takes care of heat or you may have to supplement it at the very least. Inside small tent can be next to impossible but I seen people put heat supplements next to intake but most would argue using cmh or strong light instead. The hear would have to be very low cost and safe.
 
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Fiete

Well-Known Member
I have first few threads basically with that setup of growers saying it was lock out from adding calmg even at 1-2ml per gal, they chewed me out. Was using RO water. Then I found some users use the same feed chart and end up with ibs lol. Sometimes your surroundings shape up the grow for you and just works for you despite others saying ofherwise.

But I had great results just removing the calmg and switching to tap because if it is expected to be safe to drink, it is probably fine. Some have EC of tap water of .7 or .8 so anything below sounds ok. They say hardwater is anything above .2 EC, yea like bottle water quality is coming out your city tap lol if its not super high in anything that would probably alarm people in the area anyway, fine.

What is more important is feeding to enough runoff and enough times a day. If you did not buffer and prepare coco yourself you might have to listen to someone who works with premade coco on what your feed should be with calmg, I find buffering good enough does all the trick and my nutrient line handles the rest.

I never had a problem with Coco and RO i using RO for years and yes multiple feeding / day 2 times for me with run off yes ;)
 

Fiete

Well-Known Member
I switch to 12/12 look at the Amnesia Lemon (Auto) same age like the WW and no sign of Flowering only litte pistols lol what a shame there is something wrong with Linda's Genetics and they told me in a chat it has nothing to do with Linda aha i Grow Autos 8 year's and never had this Shit on other Plants..

I have a Ec of 2,8 but just for a few Waterings i never feed so High but they looking under Flash light lot better then bevore. I have no idea how to Handle the Strech i have to remove the Amnesia Lemon maybe but defenetley the New Seedlings was a stupid idea started new bur my plan was adding new Plants when the Auto's Half ready i thought Strech near lol sucks.. But thanks for Help <3 looks they sell Auto's that are not Auto's ore mixt with Photos?


Amnesia Lemon Day 51

IMG_20230211_182845.jpgIMG_20230211_182822.jpgIMG_20230211_182222.jpg


White Widow Day 51
IMG_20230211_182247.jpgIMG_20230211_182200.jpg

IMG_20230211_182235.jpg
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I switch to 12/12 look at the Amnesia Lemon (Auto) same age like the WW and no sign of Flowering only litte pistols lol what a shame there is something wrong with Linda's Genetics and they told me in a chat it has nothing to do with Linda aha i Grow Autos 8 year's and never had this Shit on other Plants..

I have a Ec of 2,8 but just for a few Waterings i never feed so High but they looking under Flash light lot better then bevore. I have no idea how to Handle the Strech i have to remove the Amnesia Lemon maybe but defenetley the New Seedlings was a stupid idea started new bur my plan was adding new Plants when the Auto's Half ready i thought Strech near lol sucks.. But thanks for Help <3 looks they sell Auto's that are not Auto's ore mixt with Photos?


Amnesia Lemon Day 51

View attachment 5258868View attachment 5258869View attachment 5258872


White Widow Day 51
View attachment 5258870View attachment 5258873

View attachment 5258871
Oh ok, nice, 8 years! instead of creeping through a profile, not sure how others gauge expirience I just look for “idk.” You say no idea how to handle stretch, have you ever scrogged? 2 nets?
 

Fiete

Well-Known Member
Oh ok, nice, 8 years! instead of creeping through a profile, not sure how others gauge expirience I just look for “idk.” You say no idea how to handle stretch, have you ever scrogged? 2 nets?

I know how to handle Strech my English is not so good... No Scrogged no just LST and Cropp
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I know how to handle Strech my English is not so good... No Scrogged no just LST and Cropp
I speak english and from the US and have tons of grammar flaws hehe that is common. Sorry, I misunderstood. I don’t do perpetual anymore, these types curveballs would have me stressin. I wouldn’t grow more than 5 at a time ever since I tried 12 perpetual.
 

Fiete

Well-Known Member
I speak english and from the US and have tons of grammar flaws hehe that is common. Sorry, I misunderstood. I don’t do perpetual anymore, these types curveballs would have me stressin. I wouldn’t grow more than 5 at a time ever since I tried 12 perpetual.

What you would do with all the Autoflowering Seeds from Linda??? Thow it in a Trash is what i think to do because i can't trust them anymore maybe they are Photos ore Auto's ore both at the same time...
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
What you would do with all the Autoflowering Seeds from Linda??? Thow it in a Trash is what i think to do because i can't trust them anymore maybe they are Photos ore Auto's ore both at the same time...
Up to you, I wouldn’t be affraid to if finances put in is part of your hobby, it is with me. I know users here don’t want to see over priced junk if questions are asked about what was put in.

I say if a seedbank was good to me I would stay with them. I do not have time for bag seed or bad genes that can show up at the last second.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
Hey there feite~

If you're having trouble with auto's I'd go back to photo plants. The big advantage with photos is being able to clone them and control when they flower. If you are chasing quicker flower times then I would recommend something that finishes in 60 or 70 days. At least if you find a genetic you like, you can save it.

Personally I just run the plant and then re veg it (if i liked it)and then clone it. It does take some time to reveg but all you need to do is leave some buds on there when you cut it down and reduce amount of light and put it on a 24 hour cycle on.

Auto's can be great and if I had to recommend some I'd go with mephisto genetics. I haven't bought any because 10$ a bean is too much IMO when I can't even save it if I like it.

I'd do some research on what you could get where your at that won't be a waste of $$
 

Fiete

Well-Known Member
Hey there feite~

If you're having trouble with auto's I'd go back to photo plants. The big advantage with photos is being able to clone them and control when they flower. If you are chasing quicker flower times then I would recommend something that finishes in 60 or 70 days. At least if you find a genetic you like, you can save it.

Personally I just run the plant and then re veg it (if i liked it)and then clone it. It does take some time to reveg but all you need to do is leave some buds on there when you cut it down and reduce amount of light and put it on a 24 hour cycle on.

Auto's can be great and if I had to recommend some I'd go with mephisto genetics. I haven't bought any because 10$ a bean is too much IMO when I can't even save it if I like it.

I'd do some research on what you could get where your at that won't be a waste of $$

Normal i don't have probs only with the Linda seeds so i know mephisto they good also fastbuds etc.. I don't like Clones because i like always something new that's why autos are awesome under same light started new ones so on... I can grow photos and starting new beans and control the plants yes that's a option.
 
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