veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
About two feet from the outer walls and evenly spaced about 30" from each other.
Yes, all but a small entry alcove is raised beds of 2" x 12" lumber.
My Outdoor Garden-2010
- Thread starter veggiegardener
- Start date
About two feet from the outer walls and evenly spaced about 30" from each other.
Yes, all but a small entry alcove is raised beds of 2" x 12" lumber.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
If the calyxes are splitting take a close look at the seeds. If they are dark and shiny, I'd go ahead and harvest them. Either collect them individually, or cut the buds.
Drop me a link to your pix?
SCARHOLE
Well-Known Member
Dear veggie gardner
First time growing in 5 yrs, an i dont remember the amimals being so ravanous
I have lost waves of outdoor transplants, firts to gopher, 2nd to rabbits, 3rd to dear, 4th to mice(6-8 plants).
Ive used soap, mothball,hair,piss,shit, fox urine, deer away, chicken wire cages over entire plant an roots an nothing has worked.
My video journal has footage of my loses.
My question is how do you deal with pests, especialy mice?
My plan is to get some 1/4 inch cage material to keep mice out next , but any advidce woudl be GREATLY appreciated.
Sincerly
Scarhole.
First time growing in 5 yrs, an i dont remember the amimals being so ravanous
I have lost waves of outdoor transplants, firts to gopher, 2nd to rabbits, 3rd to dear, 4th to mice(6-8 plants).
Ive used soap, mothball,hair,piss,shit, fox urine, deer away, chicken wire cages over entire plant an roots an nothing has worked.
My video journal has footage of my loses.
My question is how do you deal with pests, especialy mice?
My plan is to get some 1/4 inch cage material to keep mice out next , but any advidce woudl be GREATLY appreciated.
Sincerly
Scarhole.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
That sucks!
A friend buries 1/2 inch mesh around the roots of each of his (HUGE) outdoor girls to block gophers.
I'd say use the 1/4 mesh at least two feet tall and add a couple mouse traps inside the fence, as insurance. Lightly fried bacon does very well. We used to use a Zippo for frying.
I'd put up a heavy fence if possible for the deer and rabbits.
If a fence is impracticle, consider buying a roll of 6" x 6" remesh, 7 feet wide.
Suspend on blocks or stakes, pulled taut about six inches above the ground.
No four legged animal will willingly cross this.
If a predator were to arrive while they(rabbits or deer) were standing in the remesh they have no chance of escape.
I use this technique to keep my cats out of freshly planted beds.
I learned about it in Organic Gardening about 30 years ago.
A friend buries 1/2 inch mesh around the roots of each of his (HUGE) outdoor girls to block gophers.
I'd say use the 1/4 mesh at least two feet tall and add a couple mouse traps inside the fence, as insurance. Lightly fried bacon does very well. We used to use a Zippo for frying.
I'd put up a heavy fence if possible for the deer and rabbits.
If a fence is impracticle, consider buying a roll of 6" x 6" remesh, 7 feet wide.
Suspend on blocks or stakes, pulled taut about six inches above the ground.
No four legged animal will willingly cross this.
If a predator were to arrive while they(rabbits or deer) were standing in the remesh they have no chance of escape.
I use this technique to keep my cats out of freshly planted beds.
I learned about it in Organic Gardening about 30 years ago.
ColoradoLove
Well-Known Member
Ha I can just picture an unhappy cat high stepping through the mesh barricade
WheresWaldosBUD
Well-Known Member
veggie my friend how much do you think i will yield at the end. im on week 12 going on week 13 may 25th and i still have 5 months left "i think"
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I'm kinda behind on your grow. With good care, I'd expect between four and eight ounces per plant, but it is very early.
Ask me again the middle of July.
WheresWaldosBUD
Well-Known Member
can i use baking soda and then use neem oil all in the same day
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
I don't use Neem oil, so haven't read the label.
I'd say no, since baking soda is chemically active.
Maybe hose your plants off a day after spraying the Baking soda and then spray Neem after the leaves dry.
Sorry I don't have a better answer.
WheresWaldosBUD
Well-Known Member
what do you use? and 1 more thing what do you think about root trimming before transplant to ground??????
ppkk
Member
,
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Hey Waldo!
I treat roots as I do sun leaves. I never remove them, or even disturb them during transplanting.
I have a very detailed transplanting technique that I use for everything.
I always saturate my potting soil before adding it to the existing root ball. I include small amounts of nutrients, bioenhancers and hormones.
This method has proven extremely effective and beneficial to my plants, whether Cannabis or tomatoes, or fruit trees.
I'll try to post a tutorial within a few days. I just need to find the pix. I originally wrote the tutorial at another site in '07.
WheresWaldosBUD
Well-Known Member
thanks for all your help veggie
irish farmer
Active Member
Wow man you realy got your sh1t togeather. Outdoor is hard whare I live, but it can be done, Your experience is invaluable thank's for sharing
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
OK, I'll try to get this right. I'm still trying to figure out how to insert the photos into the text.
View attachment 954569View attachment 954640
These are pix of the ingredients that go into my potting mix for transplants. I used young Tomato plants for this tutorial.
Epsom salts(Magnesium)
Liquid Ironite(A good mix of Micronutrients)
OreGro(unavailable unless you run into someone who used to sell it, as I did. Volcanic ash will replace it.
Superthrive(which I use any time the possibility of stress exists.)
Cytozyme Lab's Soil(Derived from bacteria, this product accelerates bacterial activity, making more nutes available.)
Depending on my mood or observations, I'll often add, in small quantities,
Sulfate of Ammonia 21-0-0
Fish emulsion
Seaweed Emulsion
Beneficial Fungi
Guano
It is easy to over do this!
Err on the light side.
View attachment 954642View attachment 954677
These pix show the potting soil and additives before adding water. Water helps the nutes to mix evenly in the potting soil. Note how this inexpensive potting soil has little perlite in it. This is a good thing.
View attachment 954645
Another shot, showing the bottle of Superthrive and newsprint I use to line each pot. This replaces gravel to help keep soil from washing out the drainage holes.
View attachment 954704View attachment 954644View attachment 954706
The middle pix shows the consistency of the mix, which resembles runny oatmeal. Not how I line the pots with newsprint, taking care to keep it below the soil level, to avoid wicking moisture away from the roots.
The paper helps during future transplants by protecting roots from the air. The roots easily penetrate the paper into new soil when placed in a larger pot.
View attachment 954643View attachment 954641
I use a small tub to catch runoff from the slurried mix, returning it to the bucket, periodically.
View attachment 954647
I add slurry up to the desired level. I usually remove lower leaves so that I can place the young plant deeper. This adds stem that can generate more roots.
With Cannabis I usually add rooting powder to help new roots form. Not so, with tomatoes.
View attachment 954646
I place the young plant into the slurry.
View attachment 954735View attachment 954649
I pour slurry around the root ball, taking care to hold the plant upright until the plant is stable.
There are a lot of reasons to use the Slurry Method.
The water washes the soil into all the gaps around the root ball.
The water compacts the soil to a perfect density, making good contact with feeder roots, while leaving plenty of tiny gaps for air to carry oxygen to the roots.
By adding small amounts of nutrients to the soil, the transplant does a light but thorough feeding, that would be very difficult to accomplish with most other methods.
View attachment 954648View attachment 954736
All done. I placed them in a greenhouse, where they vegged until the weather warmed up.
View attachment 954562
One of the plants a few weeks later, just prior to going in the ground.
View attachment 954569View attachment 954640
These are pix of the ingredients that go into my potting mix for transplants. I used young Tomato plants for this tutorial.
Epsom salts(Magnesium)
Liquid Ironite(A good mix of Micronutrients)
OreGro(unavailable unless you run into someone who used to sell it, as I did. Volcanic ash will replace it.
Superthrive(which I use any time the possibility of stress exists.)
Cytozyme Lab's Soil(Derived from bacteria, this product accelerates bacterial activity, making more nutes available.)
Depending on my mood or observations, I'll often add, in small quantities,
Sulfate of Ammonia 21-0-0
Fish emulsion
Seaweed Emulsion
Beneficial Fungi
Guano
It is easy to over do this!
Err on the light side.
View attachment 954642View attachment 954677
These pix show the potting soil and additives before adding water. Water helps the nutes to mix evenly in the potting soil. Note how this inexpensive potting soil has little perlite in it. This is a good thing.
View attachment 954645
Another shot, showing the bottle of Superthrive and newsprint I use to line each pot. This replaces gravel to help keep soil from washing out the drainage holes.
View attachment 954704View attachment 954644View attachment 954706
The middle pix shows the consistency of the mix, which resembles runny oatmeal. Not how I line the pots with newsprint, taking care to keep it below the soil level, to avoid wicking moisture away from the roots.
The paper helps during future transplants by protecting roots from the air. The roots easily penetrate the paper into new soil when placed in a larger pot.
View attachment 954643View attachment 954641
I use a small tub to catch runoff from the slurried mix, returning it to the bucket, periodically.
View attachment 954647
I add slurry up to the desired level. I usually remove lower leaves so that I can place the young plant deeper. This adds stem that can generate more roots.
With Cannabis I usually add rooting powder to help new roots form. Not so, with tomatoes.
View attachment 954646
I place the young plant into the slurry.
View attachment 954735View attachment 954649
I pour slurry around the root ball, taking care to hold the plant upright until the plant is stable.
There are a lot of reasons to use the Slurry Method.
The water washes the soil into all the gaps around the root ball.
The water compacts the soil to a perfect density, making good contact with feeder roots, while leaving plenty of tiny gaps for air to carry oxygen to the roots.
By adding small amounts of nutrients to the soil, the transplant does a light but thorough feeding, that would be very difficult to accomplish with most other methods.
View attachment 954648View attachment 954736
All done. I placed them in a greenhouse, where they vegged until the weather warmed up.
View attachment 954562
One of the plants a few weeks later, just prior to going in the ground.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Thank YOU for the inspiration to regenerate my old transplanting tute.
If you believe nothing else, please accept this transplanting method as the best possible approach.
I've never had anything but incredible results.(This is based on a method taught to me by my Grandmother over 50 years ago.)
Plants don't miss a beat.
veggiegardener
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the kind words.
I'd love to grow outdoors in Eire at least once.
A big chunk of my ancestry came from there.
Str8 Smokin
Active Member
I like the newspaper and saturated soil mix....
I cant wait to try it...
Thanx alot....
later...
I cant wait to try it...
Thanx alot....
later...
irish farmer
Active Member
I'l grow one next season for you.