need a some second opinions before I do anything drastic

Hey all how's it going? I'm having a few concerns with the claw effect on my girl, it's day 20 of flower, day 27 of 12/12, a few of my leaves are yellowing and the one at the top are going claw.I'm not to sure if its nitrogen toxic because I got new soil thats a little hot before switching the cycle.I'm not sure if it's because I've over dosed my bloom nutes a lil.I'm not sure if it's salt build up.
when I feed I put half a tbs of Tiger bloom Into a two liter but last feeding I accidentally put a full tbs in.I'm in a 5 gallon pot so this time I watered with 6 liters of plain pH corrected water just to give her a little more water that I Normally do.I was thinking I need a cal-mag boost as well but I'm not sure what I need to do...I would really appreciate some help!

not sure your exact problem, but a gallon and a half is a lot for a 5 gallon pot i believe.

a mongo frog said:

not sure your exact problem, but a gallon and a half is a lot for a 5 gallon pot i believe.

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Well i normally only use the two liters of water but I went ahead for the gallon and a half incase it was salt buildup.I'm not sure if I made a noob mistake by doing that though :/

my rule of thumb for watering is one party cup - 16 oz per gallon of soil.

looks like too much nitrogen - clawing . Also a phos def on the yellowing/ browning

hyroot said:

my rule of thumb for watering is one party cup - 16 oz per gallon of soil.

looks like too much nitrogen - clawing . Also a phos def on the yellowing/ browning

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Wouldn't nitrogen toxicity cause a phosphorus lock out? Not too sure but I think I recall reading that somewhere before.would you have any recommendations as to how I should go about this?

bamaboy419 said:

Wouldn't nitrogen toxicity cause a phosphorus lock out? Not too sure but I think I recall reading that somewhere before.would you have any recommendations as to how I should go about this?

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No phos gets locked out by ph being off only. too acidic or alkaline. N toxicity would result in major burns ( red edges).. Clawing is sort of a pre cursor to show too much nitrogen.. Once the leaves completely hook into the shape of a talon then its nute lock.

Some strains are major phos hogs and use alot. Its easy to get a phos def with those strains. Also if the soil dries out too much phos def can occur very quickly.

How often are you watering? 6 liters or even 3 liters is a shit ton of water to be giving your plants at once. If you are watering once a week, I could see that. I give my big plants around 500mL every other day, and they thrive in it. I believe in giving them enough water to last them 2 days. Water every other day. Are you watering once a week? If you are watering more often than that, that means your plants are transpiring a LOT. Quick transpiration can lead to nute burn since the plants are consuming water faster than nutrients, which leads to a nute buildup. How often are you watering normally and with how much?

Well since being in the 5 gallon bucket I've been watering every 5-6 days with only the 2 liter of pH'd water so that's 64 fluid oz which since hyroots method was stated it would be 80 fl oz.
And since you've said something my soil might be drying out a little faster than it should.which might be a problem causing the nutes to be taken up to quickly? Am I comprehendin that correctly?

Excessive transpiration can be caused by too strong of an air-flow going over the plants, or by excessive temperatures. Do you feel that either of those may be an issue? And you never want to let them get TOO dry. Fairly dry is good. Bone dry is terrible, that will cause all kinds of issues.

Honestly I feel my Temps should be lowered, it's at 83°F around the canopy and 79 in the room itself (I know 75 is optimal).
to combat the canopy Temps I've had a 10 inch oscillating fan running on low pointed towards the plant and the bulb which might be another factor,do you think it would better to pull the fan to the top of the room and turned so it will pull air away from the light instead of pushing it towards the plant and light?

bigbuddin84 said:

Excessive transpiration can be caused by too strong of an air-flow going over the plants, or by excessive temperatures. Do you feel that either of those may be an issue? And you never want to let them get TOO dry. Fairly dry is good. Bone dry is terrible, that will cause all kinds of issues.

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I have a 6 inch inline fan with ducting coming in through the mail as well, but after I ordered it, it hit my that I can't cut holes in my cabinet so I'll have to order a tent first before I can install proper ventilation

If temps are an issue, its kind of hard to say. 83 isn't too bad. I shoot for 77(personal preference lol). But from what I have seen plants dont like lots of wind all the time. oscillating fans are great. if not oscillating, just keep it real low, a little movement of the plants is good, not a lot. Try lowering the watering and water more often. And try to control the air like I said. Are you using a cooled hood or no?

bigbuddin84 said:

If temps are an issue, its kind of hard to say. 83 isn't too bad. I shoot for 77(personal preference lol). But from what I have seen plants dont like lots of wind all the time. oscillating fans are great. if not oscillating, just keep it real low, a little movement of the plants is good, not a lot. Try lowering the watering and water more often. And try to control the air like I said. Are you using a cooled hood or no?

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No its a simple bat wing reflector, but I have full intentions of getting an air cooled one soon.Im not a big fan of the way the wing doesn't focus light completely down because of the side opening.maybe 1 liter every 3 day at least? 33 fl oz.with the 2 liter I know at least 1/3 of what I put in comes out as runoff

hyroot said:

No phos gets locked out by ph being off only. too acidic or alkaline. N toxicity would result in major burns ( red edges).. Clawing is sort of a pre cursor to show too much nitrogen.. Once the leaves completely hook into the shape of a talon then its nute lock.

Some strains are major phos hogs and use alot. Its easy to get a phos def with those strains. Also if the soil dries out too much phos def can occur very quickly.

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Soil is "jungle growth"
Containts,aged organic humus,long fiber sphagnum peat moss, vermeculite.horticulture grade perlite.....and something I should have actually looked at before I bought it....charcoal ash.which would raise the pH right?

dip your fingers in the soil if top 2 inches are dry. Then water. How often you water depends on medium and root ball and strain. The more aeration the faster the soil dries. I rock 10 gals. I water once every 8 days. My mix 30 / 70 coco / peat. If you have plastic pots air flow won't effect medium much. More heat can. Fabric pots and air pots on the other hand can dry out faster especially the sides. How often you water will change through the grow. Early on you will water less often. Half way through flower watering will be more frequent. Towards the end the plants uptake slower. Add more nutes. Don't let the soil dry out. Mj is one of the most adaptive plants. It can adapt to almost any environment.

Thank you everyone for this info! Ill definitely do a Little more reading because I was completely unaware that water was more taken up more frequently during mid flower.with the info you guys have given me I feel like both are major factors as to the problems I'm dealing with.
I'm going to start with getting the fan directly off of the plant,because even on the low setting it pushes alot of air.

adding mulch as a top cover can help keep moisture in the soil longer too. If you are doing true organics don't mess with ph. There should be plenty of buffers in your soil. Ph-Ing has no place in organics. Check the rols sticky thread in the organic section.

hyroot said:

adding mulch as a top cover can help keep moisture in the soil longer too. If you are doing true organics don't mess with ph. There should be plenty of buffers in your soil. Ph-Ing has no place in organics. Check the rols sticky thread in the organic section.

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IM not doing true organics,I wouldn't even know where to start on that haha,and the only reason I check my ph so often is because I use tap water and want to make sure its constant readings I let sit in an open container for 24 hours then I put it in my grow room for a few hours to warm up the water since the clorine and other treatment chemical evaporate at a lower temperature then water.that's just for added measure though, I'll look into that thread too,Sounds like an educational read