i have a 19 plant mini mortgage lifter set up from sulight solutions wanna know what would be the best nutrients during veggie stage and flowering money is not daa issue please help me out......i got 2 600 watt hps......wut shud be my humidity level?.....if i want to lower the temperature at night down to 70 degrees or will it shok my plants??? pleez help
need help mini mortgage lifter
- Thread starter gdpboi
- Start date
horribleherk
Well-Known Member
lowering temps to 70 or even mid 60's shouldnt hurt plants i have no knowlege about the mortage lifter but have quite a few e&f grows under my gelt & both of my growrooms are outside requiring heating in winter [small electric heaters] & in the summer i use inline duct fans to pull cool air from under my house foundation over 85 or under 62 i start to get concerned its been all about trial & error for me oh yeah i use gh- floranova keep it simple schedule with good results i guess you have to start somewhere here is a few pics of my 4x4 1000w. e&f rockwool grow the bud shots are from my 600 w soil grow both grows using same gh-floranova nutesbigcitycowboy
Member
gdpboi how is ur mini lifter? have u got it up and running? didnt it come with nuits? any complaints? can u post some pics?
i will post as soon as i get a chance to ya it kame wit some but i wanna know if i shud go with advanced nutrients i still dnt even have my seeds i wanna knw if sumwun kan help me as far as how shud i feed da seeds n da whole process from begining to end ima newb and dont wanna fukk up.....i gt a 1200 budget for nutes and i need sum help....as soon as i get it up n running i definitely will post pikkkzzzz........what is that that yur growinggg^
panhead
Well-Known Member
Why would you wonder if you should go with advanced nutrients ? Is it because somebody told you they were better or made better buds ?
FYI advanced nutrients is no better than any other fertilizer,the difference is advanced breaks up their fertilizer into as many seperate components possible to get you the consumer to spend more money.
Plus all the fancy names like bud candy makes people believe they have some secret formula,the entire company is based on tricking the consumer out of their money with clever marketing.
Stay away from advanced nutrients.
Use the nutrients that came with the system,then after they are used up look for the cheapest brand you can find.
FYI advanced nutrients is no better than any other fertilizer,the difference is advanced breaks up their fertilizer into as many seperate components possible to get you the consumer to spend more money.
Plus all the fancy names like bud candy makes people believe they have some secret formula,the entire company is based on tricking the consumer out of their money with clever marketing.
Stay away from advanced nutrients.
Use the nutrients that came with the system,then after they are used up look for the cheapest brand you can find.
panhead
Well-Known Member
Forgot your other questions.
Cool or cold night time temps will not harm the plants,what it will do is bring out more color in the buds,especially blue,the cooler it is the more blue the buds will be,you can make any strain turn blue by lowering night time temps.
I grow in a climate that regulary see's temps of -30 below zero in winter months,i bring in outside air & bring night time temps down to 60 degrees the 1st month in flower,then lower the night temps down to 55 degrees for the last month.
Best lookin buds ever.
Humidity levels are dependant on room temps,plants are much like is,the hotter it is the more humidity makes us feel like shit,if your room is hot them high humidity will effect the plants more.
At a temp of 80 degrees humidity should be kept at or under 50% durring veg & down to 40% or lower durring bud,if the room temps are under 80 degrees you can let humidity levels rise a bit.
Cool or cold night time temps will not harm the plants,what it will do is bring out more color in the buds,especially blue,the cooler it is the more blue the buds will be,you can make any strain turn blue by lowering night time temps.
I grow in a climate that regulary see's temps of -30 below zero in winter months,i bring in outside air & bring night time temps down to 60 degrees the 1st month in flower,then lower the night temps down to 55 degrees for the last month.
Best lookin buds ever.
Humidity levels are dependant on room temps,plants are much like is,the hotter it is the more humidity makes us feel like shit,if your room is hot them high humidity will effect the plants more.
At a temp of 80 degrees humidity should be kept at or under 50% durring veg & down to 40% or lower durring bud,if the room temps are under 80 degrees you can let humidity levels rise a bit.
thank you very very much PANHEAD so as soon as i have my seeds ready 2 plant what should i feed it to make sure it gets everything it needs at that stage?
is there a different temperature and humidity level that i need at that specific time?
what lights should i use during that stage and how far from the actual plants do i put the light?
what are the ppm and ph levels that i need to maintain a great grow thru the different stages?
should i keep the 2 400 watts for my vegitative stage or shud i upgrade?
do you think 2 600 watts hps are better than 2 1000 watts hps for flowering in my 4x4?
is there a difference between the brands of the lights if so what would be the best lights for my different stages as far as brand is concerned?
and what exactly would be the best purple strain you think i shud try 2 get for hydro?
im so sorry for all these question but i just dont wanna mess nothing up
is there a different temperature and humidity level that i need at that specific time?
what lights should i use during that stage and how far from the actual plants do i put the light?
what are the ppm and ph levels that i need to maintain a great grow thru the different stages?
should i keep the 2 400 watts for my vegitative stage or shud i upgrade?
do you think 2 600 watts hps are better than 2 1000 watts hps for flowering in my 4x4?
is there a difference between the brands of the lights if so what would be the best lights for my different stages as far as brand is concerned?
and what exactly would be the best purple strain you think i shud try 2 get for hydro?
im so sorry for all these question but i just dont wanna mess nothing up
thank you very very much PANHEAD so as soon as i have my seeds ready 2 plant what should i feed it to make sure it gets everything it needs at that stage?
is there a different temperature and humidity level that i need at that specific time?
what lights should i use during that stage and how far from the actual plants do i put the light?
what are the ppm and ph levels that i need to maintain a great grow thru the different stages?
should i keep the 2 400 watts for my vegitative stage or shud i upgrade?
do you think 2 600 watts hps are better than 2 1000 watts hps for flowering in my 4x4?
is there a difference between the brands of the lights if so what would be the best lights for my different stages as far as brand is concerned?
and what exactly would be the best purple strain you think i shud try 2 get for hydro?
im so sorry for all these question but i just dont wanna mess nothing up
is there a different temperature and humidity level that i need at that specific time?
what lights should i use during that stage and how far from the actual plants do i put the light?
what are the ppm and ph levels that i need to maintain a great grow thru the different stages?
should i keep the 2 400 watts for my vegitative stage or shud i upgrade?
do you think 2 600 watts hps are better than 2 1000 watts hps for flowering in my 4x4?
is there a difference between the brands of the lights if so what would be the best lights for my different stages as far as brand is concerned?
and what exactly would be the best purple strain you think i shud try 2 get for hydro?
im so sorry for all these question but i just dont wanna mess nothing up
bigcitycowboy
Member
i still in the gathering up stuff process right now...still havent made up my mind with the mortgage lifter yet..waiting for some responses back for some others on here that have the system also...good luck and keep me posted!!!
panhead
Well-Known Member
Lets see here,i will try to answer all your questions.
Lighting.
If all your going to be running is a 4ft X 4ft area then a 1,000 watt light is too much as is 2 600 watt lights,if you can hang white reflective plastic close to the sides then a single 600 watt will work great.
I own 1,000 watt lights,600 watt lights,400 watt lights as well as T-5 floroscent lights,i also own HPS & MH systems,of all the different wattages & bulb types i prefer 600 watt Hps (High pressure sodium) lights,the hps works good for veg & is the best for flowering/bud phase,there is no need to use Metal Halide for veg as the differences are not all that big with hydroponics because the veg phase is generaly much shorter than soil growing.
I also prefer the 600 watt hps for light penetration vs a 1,000 watt hps,light fades at distance,every milameter you pull the light away from the canopy light drops off drasticaly,a 1,000 watt needs to be atleast 12" inches away from the canopy so the plants wont burn,the distance from the canopy takes away about half of the 1,000 watt's lumens,this decrease in lumens seriously takes away from penetration deep into the plants interior.
A 600 watt HPS is cool enough to where the tops of the plants can touch the glass without any burn to the plants,my plants allways ride the glass with very many leaves in direct contact with the glass with no burn.
With the 600 watt HPS penetration deep inside the thick of the plants is stronger & delievers more light than the 1,000 watt HPS,the way light fades at distance is mind blowing when you see it on a lumen meter,your eye cant see the differences very well but a lumen meter will show big differences between the 600 vs the 1,000,its a mathmatical formula you can look up on the web & see what im saying is truth.
Heat issues.
In a small area like your 4ft X 4ft area heat will overcome the plants if you dont air cool the light,HTG High Tech Garden supply sells the best lights & fans,you can get a light like mine dirt cheap,you get a 600 watt digital ballast,a 600 watt hps grow bulb,a very nice air cooled hood that measures 34" inches X 28 inches with the glass,cords,everything you need for $300,throw in a 6"inch centrifugal fan that will easily cool 2 600 watt light systems for $90 & you have a top of the line digital light system thats air cooled for $390 plus shipping which is $30,a grand total of $420 & you have all you need,no matter what light system you chose or where you buy air cooling the light is a MUST in a small area like yours.
I will continue answering your questions in another post so i dont get timed out.
panhead
Well-Known Member
Allrighty then,lets move foward.
As for brand names of lighting & or nutrients/fertilizer dont get caught up in that bullshit,people will say they get better whatever out of fancy expensive lights & nutrients vs cheaper models,number one its the expensive light they own so ofcourse they justify,lots of talk about friends having bad experiences with cheaper models,its all bullshit,the lights i reccomended come with a full 5 year warranty & they are the largest hydro shop in the united states.
I own 24 seperate 600 watt digital light systems from HTG,i also own 9 seperate 400 watt magnetic ballast light systems from HTG,Ive had the digital ballast systems over 3 years & the magnetic systems over 7 years without a single problem,i also own 12 seperate 1,000 watt light systems from HYDROFARM that ive had about 7 years as well,had no problems with them either but their warranty is only 3 years i think,hydrofarm is much more expensive than HTG so it just goes to show fancy expensive light systems offer no advantage.
Nutrients need not be expensive either,i highly reccomend using GENERAL HYDROPONICS 3 PART SYSTEM which consists of Flora Grow,Flora Micro & Flora Bloom,no other additives are needed for a grow that could be in high times magazine,its the exact same nutrients i use.
Feeding schedule & ppm,all the shit you hear about hydro being hard where if you add too much of something or not enough of another,or if a pump fails,or any other reason you hear why hydroponics is tricky or hard,all these myths are total bullshit,hydro is way easier than soil.
The reasons hydro is easier is that you the grower is in total control of every aspect of the plants life,in soil growing the soil has more control over plant health than the grower,in soil if a problem develops or plants get sick its trial & error to nurse plants back to health,it can take weeks to see if what your doing to nurse the plants back in good health is even working,then what if the corrective action wasnt what the plants needed to regain health ? The plants keep getting sicker,for a new grower sick or unhealthy soil plants are a nightmare.
In hydroponics in most cases if the plants have a problem its a simple fix,just dump the rez & refill with fresh solution,add a few more air stones & the plants will be healthy again,its that simple,problem solving with hydroponics is childs play & anybody can do it easily.
When you 1st start the plants out you do not want to feed them at all,just plain water with proper ph,once the plants develope 2 sets of leaves you can feed them,keep the ppm at or below 200 ppm,once the plant has 3 sets of leaves feed them 300 ppm,once the plant has 5 or 6 sets of leaves feed them 400 to 500 ppm & you can stay at that level until bud phase,if you want you can feed the plants as much as 700 ppm once the plants have 6 or 7 sets of leaves but lower ppm is safer & in most cases just as good as higher ppm.
Once the plant is in bud you can increase the ppm up to 700 to 800 ppm,depending on the strain you could go up to 1,000 ppm but its best to stay a good ways under 1,000 ppm,as long as plants are healthy keep the ppm no higher than 800 ppm & you will never burn the plants or have nutrient lock out where the plants wont feed.
Ph issues.
The commonly accepted safe ph ranges are from 5.5 on the low side up to 6.5 on the high side with a ph of 5.8 being the sweet spot,keep in mind that these numbers are not carved in stone & plants will be ok if the ph slips past or below normal levels,for short periods its better for plant health & vigor if plants are allowed to see higher or lower ph levels for short periods.
All nutrients are not best absorbed by the plant at the same ph level,an example lets say nitrogen is best absorbed at a ph of 3.5,obviously we cant let the ph get that low because it will cook the plant but we can let the ph slip a few points below 5.5 for a short period it wont hurt the plants & allows them to eat better,the same thing on the high side of the ph scale,some nutrients are best absorbed at 8.5 ph,once again we cant allow the ph to climb that high because it will hammer the plants,again allowing the plant to see a ph of 7.0 isnt going to hurt the plant & short intervals of higher ph help the plants eat better & increase vigor.
So you see ph isnt a hard issue to overcome,as long as you have a quality ph meter keeping the ph in check is easy as pie & anybody is easily capable of doing it perfectly their very 1st grow.
Temps are another issue you asked about,plants are like humans when it comes to temps & humidity,if your comfortable then the plants are comfortable,if your uncomfortable then in all likelyhood the plants are suffering,temps can go higher when the humidity os low.
Plants prefer to be in the mid 70 degree range,for best growth & health i keep my temps around 75 degrees lights on & about 65 degrees lights out in winter,in summer i keep it 75 degrees round the clock.
Humidity can fuck a whole grow up by causing blight & mold,powdery mildew & bud rott,the best way to gaurd against these things is with constant fresh moving air,fresh air is 2nd only to pure ozone in killing mold & fungi.
When plants are in veg phase humidity should be no lower than 30% & no higher than 70%,if the temps are very low higher humidity can be allowed for short periods as long as there is a steady flow of fresh air thru the plants,in bud phase humidity is extremely crucial,humidity levels are best durring heavy bud phase the lower they are,in heavy bud a 10% humidity level is kick ass,in heavy bud a level of 40% is extremely safe,levels of 50% & a tad bit higher are ok but be damm sure fresh air is CONSTANTLY circulating around the entire plant with an oscalating fan or two.
I think i answered all your questions,if not just post with the rest & i will do my best to answer,dont worry about asking too many questions either,helping new growers with very detailed responses is what i prefer to do,im not a short answer kind of grower & i also enjoy mentoring new hydroponic growers get off the ground.
Dont worry,hydro is easy & the hydro section has quite a few excellent growers who answer questions regulary,plus the hydro section has multiple moderators who like myself grow hydroponics & help new growers.
What are you waiting for,get out and start gathering up everything you need to get this grow going.
As for brand names of lighting & or nutrients/fertilizer dont get caught up in that bullshit,people will say they get better whatever out of fancy expensive lights & nutrients vs cheaper models,number one its the expensive light they own so ofcourse they justify,lots of talk about friends having bad experiences with cheaper models,its all bullshit,the lights i reccomended come with a full 5 year warranty & they are the largest hydro shop in the united states.
I own 24 seperate 600 watt digital light systems from HTG,i also own 9 seperate 400 watt magnetic ballast light systems from HTG,Ive had the digital ballast systems over 3 years & the magnetic systems over 7 years without a single problem,i also own 12 seperate 1,000 watt light systems from HYDROFARM that ive had about 7 years as well,had no problems with them either but their warranty is only 3 years i think,hydrofarm is much more expensive than HTG so it just goes to show fancy expensive light systems offer no advantage.
Nutrients need not be expensive either,i highly reccomend using GENERAL HYDROPONICS 3 PART SYSTEM which consists of Flora Grow,Flora Micro & Flora Bloom,no other additives are needed for a grow that could be in high times magazine,its the exact same nutrients i use.
Feeding schedule & ppm,all the shit you hear about hydro being hard where if you add too much of something or not enough of another,or if a pump fails,or any other reason you hear why hydroponics is tricky or hard,all these myths are total bullshit,hydro is way easier than soil.
The reasons hydro is easier is that you the grower is in total control of every aspect of the plants life,in soil growing the soil has more control over plant health than the grower,in soil if a problem develops or plants get sick its trial & error to nurse plants back to health,it can take weeks to see if what your doing to nurse the plants back in good health is even working,then what if the corrective action wasnt what the plants needed to regain health ? The plants keep getting sicker,for a new grower sick or unhealthy soil plants are a nightmare.
In hydroponics in most cases if the plants have a problem its a simple fix,just dump the rez & refill with fresh solution,add a few more air stones & the plants will be healthy again,its that simple,problem solving with hydroponics is childs play & anybody can do it easily.
When you 1st start the plants out you do not want to feed them at all,just plain water with proper ph,once the plants develope 2 sets of leaves you can feed them,keep the ppm at or below 200 ppm,once the plant has 3 sets of leaves feed them 300 ppm,once the plant has 5 or 6 sets of leaves feed them 400 to 500 ppm & you can stay at that level until bud phase,if you want you can feed the plants as much as 700 ppm once the plants have 6 or 7 sets of leaves but lower ppm is safer & in most cases just as good as higher ppm.
Once the plant is in bud you can increase the ppm up to 700 to 800 ppm,depending on the strain you could go up to 1,000 ppm but its best to stay a good ways under 1,000 ppm,as long as plants are healthy keep the ppm no higher than 800 ppm & you will never burn the plants or have nutrient lock out where the plants wont feed.
Ph issues.
The commonly accepted safe ph ranges are from 5.5 on the low side up to 6.5 on the high side with a ph of 5.8 being the sweet spot,keep in mind that these numbers are not carved in stone & plants will be ok if the ph slips past or below normal levels,for short periods its better for plant health & vigor if plants are allowed to see higher or lower ph levels for short periods.
All nutrients are not best absorbed by the plant at the same ph level,an example lets say nitrogen is best absorbed at a ph of 3.5,obviously we cant let the ph get that low because it will cook the plant but we can let the ph slip a few points below 5.5 for a short period it wont hurt the plants & allows them to eat better,the same thing on the high side of the ph scale,some nutrients are best absorbed at 8.5 ph,once again we cant allow the ph to climb that high because it will hammer the plants,again allowing the plant to see a ph of 7.0 isnt going to hurt the plant & short intervals of higher ph help the plants eat better & increase vigor.
So you see ph isnt a hard issue to overcome,as long as you have a quality ph meter keeping the ph in check is easy as pie & anybody is easily capable of doing it perfectly their very 1st grow.
Temps are another issue you asked about,plants are like humans when it comes to temps & humidity,if your comfortable then the plants are comfortable,if your uncomfortable then in all likelyhood the plants are suffering,temps can go higher when the humidity os low.
Plants prefer to be in the mid 70 degree range,for best growth & health i keep my temps around 75 degrees lights on & about 65 degrees lights out in winter,in summer i keep it 75 degrees round the clock.
Humidity can fuck a whole grow up by causing blight & mold,powdery mildew & bud rott,the best way to gaurd against these things is with constant fresh moving air,fresh air is 2nd only to pure ozone in killing mold & fungi.
When plants are in veg phase humidity should be no lower than 30% & no higher than 70%,if the temps are very low higher humidity can be allowed for short periods as long as there is a steady flow of fresh air thru the plants,in bud phase humidity is extremely crucial,humidity levels are best durring heavy bud phase the lower they are,in heavy bud a 10% humidity level is kick ass,in heavy bud a level of 40% is extremely safe,levels of 50% & a tad bit higher are ok but be damm sure fresh air is CONSTANTLY circulating around the entire plant with an oscalating fan or two.
I think i answered all your questions,if not just post with the rest & i will do my best to answer,dont worry about asking too many questions either,helping new growers with very detailed responses is what i prefer to do,im not a short answer kind of grower & i also enjoy mentoring new hydroponic growers get off the ground.
Dont worry,hydro is easy & the hydro section has quite a few excellent growers who answer questions regulary,plus the hydro section has multiple moderators who like myself grow hydroponics & help new growers.
What are you waiting for,get out and start gathering up everything you need to get this grow going.
panhead
Well-Known Member
Forgot about a purple strain you asked about.
Right off the bat i will tell you im not a big fan of purple strains,the main reasons are taste & buzz,ive allways found purple strains to be a bit weak on buzz,i prefer a hard hitting long lasting heavy buzz & purples just dont get me high enough.
Taste is another issue,most purples dont have a skunky taste i prefer,i like dope that has a strong taste with a real heavy skunk aroma & purples dont have either.
Bag appeal is the last issue i have,when you harvest a purple it looks so damm good its sick,once its dried & cured it looses alot of its bag appeal.
I do however really enjoy smoking & growing blue widdow,very heavy buzz,great taste & smell & long lasting hard hitting buzz,the main colas are pretty good sized & secondary buds are good sized as well,the buds are dense & hard as rocks,a tiny lil bud breaks down into several joints.
The blue/purple color is very rich in color with streaks of red going thru the buds,its a fast finish strain & mold resistant,the harvest weights are good as well.
Blue widdow is a easy strain to grow & the only strain i like that fits your critera.
Cheers.
Right off the bat i will tell you im not a big fan of purple strains,the main reasons are taste & buzz,ive allways found purple strains to be a bit weak on buzz,i prefer a hard hitting long lasting heavy buzz & purples just dont get me high enough.
Taste is another issue,most purples dont have a skunky taste i prefer,i like dope that has a strong taste with a real heavy skunk aroma & purples dont have either.
Bag appeal is the last issue i have,when you harvest a purple it looks so damm good its sick,once its dried & cured it looses alot of its bag appeal.
I do however really enjoy smoking & growing blue widdow,very heavy buzz,great taste & smell & long lasting hard hitting buzz,the main colas are pretty good sized & secondary buds are good sized as well,the buds are dense & hard as rocks,a tiny lil bud breaks down into several joints.
The blue/purple color is very rich in color with streaks of red going thru the buds,its a fast finish strain & mold resistant,the harvest weights are good as well.
Blue widdow is a easy strain to grow & the only strain i like that fits your critera.
Cheers.
horribleherk
Well-Known Member
my strain is sannies killing fields it turns color & its not weak as are a lot of purples i really think killing fields is more of a blue color