need help on figuring out when to harvest and maybe how to get these girls to swell

In regards to Probo24.. HOLY SMOKES!!!! You my friend know how to grow huge Nuggets. I love that you threw the bottle for size comparison. Do you use a special molasses and do you mix it with your other nutes after week 4 or just molasses and agua?

Well I used a Ph meter in my soil and it read about 7...could be wrong of course.....but the thing is I have stopped feeding them for 2 weeks from when those photos have been taken with the exception of adding molases.....they were nute burned or so I was advised and I stopped feeding them and they started to recover and even more so when I started dumping co2 in the room, but they are weaking again so could it be they used up the food and need to be fed again?

tcaliwowi said:

In regards to Probo24.. HOLY SMOKES!!!! You my friend know how to grow huge Nuggets. I love that you threw the bottle for size comparison. Do you use a special molasses and do you mix it with your other nutes after week 4 or just molasses and agua?

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Thank you for the kind words.
This is right off the grocery store shelf, Grandmas Unsulphered Molasses, It cost me four bucks a bottle.
I use it right through the end of flowering, with nutrients, and with just plain water.

I will say the only problem I have on these forums is conflicting advice lol

probo24 said:

The flowering cycle starts when a plant starts to receive twelve hours of uninterrupted darkness,
which in turn triggers the plants flowering hormones.
I don't know what you call the first two weeks of your 12/12 light schedule, but I call it flowering.
And 6.5, while good for plants it isn't neutral, it's still slightly acidic so wouldn't you still get bubbling using your baking soda method?
Why not use a ph tester if testing ph?

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well a ph tester isnt perfect. bakeing soda vinegar method is a way to test your ph meter. even in the air your meter will read 7. so it could be wrong. you want your soil to be just alittel acidic. when you turn the lights on in the morning to get out of bed do you wake up and just start running around. plants take time to addjust you cant just go 12/ 12 and think there going to bud tommrow. i said about 2 weeks or until you see buds.

the more acdic something is the more of a reaction youll get if its 4.0 0r 5 dont get to close might get in your eye. some thing if you pour vinegar on alkaline soil 7.5 or more. the bigger the gap the more vilent the reaction

Ill go test my ph meter, but I gave it half dose of food and it is perking back up,,,,,slowly

probo24 said:

Although I started later in flowering with these two, I'm a firm believer in the benefits
of adding molasses to my feedings after three to four weeks in flowering.
I use it with and without nutrients, seldom leaving it out of any watering.
I truly believe I get fuller, more dense buds when using it.

I'm limited to 400w hps and four small plants in flower. I've grown this strain since jan. 2010 and cuttings fed with molasses have produced fuller buds, and more weight
than when I don't use it.
I use Fox Farms nutrients and last fed these two weeks ago. After cutting the top buds the bottoms were then fed full strength and will continue to flower for up to two more weeks to fatten the small stuff up, continuing the molasses as well.

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That batch that u have thats pulled already was that from one plant and wat were the specifics (light, style of grow, neut, size)

SweetestCheeba said:

That batch that u have thats pulled already was that from one plant and wat were the specifics (light, style of grow, neut, size)

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This is a perpetual grow of cuttings from a mom I grew from seed (strain unknown, but from a breeder not bagseed).
I veg under cfls, and flower under 400w hps.

The plants pictured are the first two plants of four I have currently flowering.
The buds pictured are the tops of those first two plants.
The bottoms of both plants are back in the flower room, fattening up the lower buds.
These plants vegged for around one and a half months. I also top all my plants during veg,
these first two were topped twice.
I end up with a scrog type canopy with the ability to move entire plants around if need be,
while still keeping an even, parobolic type canopy. I'll cut most of the whispy airy stuff under the
canopy but with topping and a long veg, I have enough lower buds with enough weight to justify
two extra weeks of light the bottoms get after cutting the tops, so I try to limit what I cut.
The plants are growing in two gallon perfect pots, using Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil that
I mix worm castings and dolomite lime into, and feed with the Big Bloom liquid nutrient trio pack (BB, TB, GB)
I also use Cal-Mag, Super Thrive, Molasses, and H2O2 during flowering.
The tallest of the two plants was 26" the shorter was 18"
The ten tops I cut will begin curing 9-3 and will weigh just over three ounces,
the bottoms will net between two and three ounces more once they're cut.
The other two plants flowering were vegged two to four weeks longer and will produce similar weights.

First and foremost,, why in the hell did you trim the fan leaves and actually manicure your plant while it is flowering, big big big no no, fan leaves take energy from light and send it to bud????????? Wow thats just common sense bro

I didnt want to but they were dried out as fuck, as in they essentially crumble when you touched them.....I didnt see as to how they would come back from that....anyways I went to a grow shop and they told me to give them a mix of 4 parts TB and 1 part GB while giving them a lot of BB....they also suggested that due to the size of the plants is that i might be running into a root bound issue

anyone have thoughts on this so far?

So Im thinking its a calcium issue, does anyone know what I could add to my water to flush it out....like FF sledgehammer ?

well got off the phone with FF and they are saying that I may have a calcium build up and should lower the ph in my waterings to 6.1-6.2
6.2

To me it looks like your initial problem is a nutrient burn, the stereotypical yellowing and turning down. Then by taking away all nutrients the plant has only the stored "food" so once ran out it could definately be why it seemed to get better and then worste again. Also you jumped from 1 extreme to another and you need to be careful with that becuase the last thing u want is a stressed plant turning hermaphrodite. B-52 by advanced nutrients will GREATLY reduce the chance of any disease or stress.

And a quick note on the cutting fan blades, your best bet (from personnel experience) is to either leave them completely or cut the whole stem/leaf. By completely stopping growth youve told the plant that this leave is gone and to focus somewhere else, But i rarely take a fan blade without taking the corresponding new growth (ussually only toward the end of the vegative stage, getting it ready for budding). Also after any trim, your plant will love a dose of b-52 to jump start it up again.

i Dont rlly think u have a calcium problem, your doing everything the same as most growers. So dont think into it soo much change 1 thing at a time and wait to see the results. Let me know how its coming along!! wish you luck!

Spoke to a seasoned grower and he says what might be happening is a case of slow but progressive overwatering and should reduce my watering to about a cup per plant to see if they turn around.....which makes sense since my girls arent absorbing water like they used to

amendment said:

Spoke to a seasoned grower and he says what might be happening is a case of slow but progressive overwatering and should reduce my watering to about a cup per plant to see if they turn around.....which makes sense since my girls arent absorbing water like they used to

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What size pots are you going to be feeding one cup of water to?
How often and how much water do you use now?