New Beginnings for Massachussetts and I

1st seeds dropping today. After doing some final research, it's going to be Dinafem Blue Widow, not the HSO Blue Dream. Seems a proper grow for BD can flower a lot longer than the 60-70 days that they advertise for a really good result. Since this will be my first grow, I'd like to see the fruits (well, flowers) of my labors sooner than that.
Scarifying 5 seeds, dropping them in RO water overnight, then planting them in 3:1 Happy Frog : Stonington Blend.
 
Bosgrower said:
1st seeds dropping today. After doing some final research, it's going to be Dinafem Blue Widow, not the HSO Blue Dream. Seems a proper grow for BD can flower a lot longer than the 60-70 days that they advertise for a really good result. Since this will be my first grow, I'd like to see the fruits (well, flowers) of my labors sooner than that.
Scarifying 5 seeds, dropping them in RO water overnight, then planting them in 3:1 Happy Frog : Stonington Blend.
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One thing some growers do is add a small splash of hydrogen peroxide to the water before you toss in the seeds. Seeds can have fungi/bacteria that will grow when you plant them and suck nutrients from your plant.

Plus the extra oxygen released may not hurt either. I used this method and it at least did no harm.
 
greg nr said:
Hear ya. Your 5 foot tent is a lot shorter once you add a light, fan, filter, etc to the top of it. So 5' becomes 4', your plants grow to 3', and that is too close for a lot of lights. I went for a 6' tent to start, but I've got essentially the same issues. A scrog will help to use every inch of your tent, but you can still get burned by a stretch in flower.

Not the worst problem to have though. If you get that far with healthy plants, and your only problem is they grew too big, you are doing well...... :hump:
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that is what I was thinking, It means I did a great job if i get to the point I run out of head room!
Especially with the LED having to be 24" above plants. bye bye 2 feet. now its 3. so i have to throw her in flower when she is about a foot whether I want to or not. It is SO HARD when you are a first time grower to even think that far when you are ordering supplies, etc. I started out thinking I could do this in a 3 foot cabinet with no ventilation. what a noob. LOL.
 
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@ JustCallmeMom
Sorry if I missed it, but whose LED do you have that has to be 24" above the flower canopy? That might be true during early veg when the plants are too tender for full blast light exposure, but you should be able to get a lot closer than that once you are week or 2 into flower.
 
Bosgrower said:
@ JustCallmeMom
Sorry if I missed it, but whose LED do you have that has to be 24" above the flower canopy? That might be true during early veg when the plants are too tender for full blast light exposure, but you should be able to get a lot closer than that once you are week or 2 into flower.
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I bought a mars hydro I'm using now. they recommend no closer than 18" even in flower. I guess I will just take it day by day, and go by what my plants seem to like. I still wish I had gotten the 6' tent, oh well, if folks can grow in a computer case, I can do it in my 5' tent :-)
 
A lot of us that are worried about heights. From a very young age have to train the hell out of them. So I just topped my plants after say 5 weeks in veg. I should have done that 3 weeks ago. So that's my first mistake on that aspect. It really from the first week training and keeping them down. Lighting and stretching is huge. Keeping lights at the perfect point allowing light controlling its height grow.
 
Never got a definitive answer on this bug should I leave it on my plants like so? Is he worth keeping around and doing good things for my garden or bad things?image.jpg
 
I'm not sure of it's exact name, but it's commonly referred to as a stink bug. When you squash it you'll know why. I don't know what they eat but at best they're plant neutral so have at it
 
Bosgrower said:
I'm not sure of it's exact name, but it's commonly referred to as a stink bug. When you squash it you'll know why. I don't know what they eat but at best they're plant neutral so have at it
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I asked last week. I killed that one. But this one I'll be keeping around and keeping an eye on him. Lol. See what happens.
 
Bosgrower said:
According to Timber, these COB lights can be as close as 8"-10" in late flower - not using their fixtures but I built mine using the same cxb3590s
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never saw COB light, will check it out on internet.
If i stuck with CFL's (which I planned on doing when I purchased the tent) I could be as close as 2-3". I didnt know LED would have to be over plants 1.5-2ft.....oops. live and learn :-)
 
Hmm, could either be eating your plants or other bugs. Dispatch it and be done!

What Do Stink Bugs Eat?
Stink bug is the common name of insects in the family Pentatomidae. They get the name “stink bug” from the unpleasant odor they produce when they are threatened. Scientists think the bugs use the odor as a defense against predators.

There are hundreds of species of stink bugs in the United States. In the adult stage, they may be green or brown. Some are brightly colored and some have patterns on their backs. Many large adult stink bugs reach almost 2 cm in length.

In the immature, or nymph stage, the color varies from black to white. Some nymphs have white spots, which disappear as they mature. Some nymphs change color several times as they grow.

Most stink bugs are plant feeders. The first generation in the spring often feed on weeds or grasses. As they develop into adults, they often migrate into fields, orchards and residential landscapes.

In these environments, stink bugs feed on apples, peaches, berries, peppers, beans and pecans. They also feed on field crops like sorghum and cotton. Around homes, stink bugs have been found feeding on ornamental plants.

When stink bugs feed on fruits like peaches or apples, they use their mouth to pierce the skin of the fruit. The insect injects a small amount of saliva into the fruit. The saliva is toxic to the cells of the fruit, so when the damaged fruit grows, it develops a scar. The scar causes the fruit to resemble the face of a cat. Because of this, some people call stink bugs “cat-facing insects.”

Stink bugs also feed on stems and leaves of plants. Besides making fruit unfit for sale, stink bug feeding secondarily allows other insects to enter the fruit. The stink bugs can also spread plant diseases. These plant-feeding stink bugs can become serious pests in farms, orchards and gardens.

A few species of stink bugs do not feed on plants. They are predators of insects that attack plants. These predatory stink bugs have been found feeding on velvet bean caterpillars, root weevils, Colorado potato beetles and southern green stink bugs. Because of this, most gardeners consider the predatory stink bugs to be beneficial.
 
JustCallmeMom said:
never saw COB light, will check it out on internet.
If i stuck with CFL's (which I planned on doing when I purchased the tent) I could be as close as 2-3". I didnt know LED would have to be over plants 1.5-2ft.....oops. live and learn :-)
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Cob's are incredibly bright arrays of tiny leds. They are normally run at about 50 watts, which is enough to make your eyes ache you if you try to look right at it. I can't believe you can put a plant that close to one and not burn it. So who knows what the right distance is, but I can't easily believe you could put a plant 12 inches from a cob and not bleach the hell out of it.
 
greg nr said:
Cob's are incredibly bright arrays of tiny leds. They are normally run at about 50 watts, which is enough to make your eyes ache you if you try to look right at it. I can't believe you can put a plant that close to one and not burn it. So who knows what the right distance is, but I can't easily believe you could put a plant 12 inches from a cob and not bleach the hell out of it.
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At max output mine will run at about 50w but I cheated ... I added dimmers so I can take them down to as low as 10%. They won't be cranked all the way up and lowered all the way down until I'm a couple of weeks into flower
 
ttystikk said:
Yup. Called perpetual harvest and it's basically the principle of staggering stages. You can split it up a million ways.
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I'm going to start cloning in the next week or so. Slow process. So I can basically take my time in veg between clones and veg for now. Start introducing two plants at a time to flower room. As I get going I'll be able to turn over two plants harvest each month. I'll be excited to run my 1000W HPS and see the mass production this can achieve.
 
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