New style Samsung LM561C Board

[Randomblame]

The drivers came and these were the measurements of the Folite Plus QB304+ with 660nm.

1200mA read 107.2v at begining cool temperatures, and settled to @ 105.0v after the board equalized its passive resting temp of 155°F.

107.2v ÷ 38
~
2.82v

I added (4) 1.44w 7cm×7cm fans ontop of the heatsink (from what I can tell seems to be similar to a slate 1, a slate 2 is what I'd want in the future) and continued testing.


1200mA + (4) 1.4w fans = 106°F
1280mA + (4) 1.4w fans = 109°F
1320mA + (4) 1.4w fans = 112°F

1320mA measured 108.2v initially and settled @ 107.7v while reaching a final resting temp of 112°F.

1320mA ÷ 8
~
165mA

108.2 ÷ 38
~
2.85v

1.32A × 107.7v
~
142w

That's pretty good! The diodes can handle up to 200mA but I have no idea about the board limits. But I've seen 9A prints next to the connectors on some of these boards, Zeus boards for instance run with 4,5A. So as long as the temps are in a good range(<85°C) it should be okay to drive them a harder.

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

That's pretty good! The diodes can handle up to 200mA but I have no idea about the board limits. But I've seen 9A prints next to the connectors on some of these boards, Zeus boards for instance run with 4,5A. So as long as the temps are in a good range(<85°C) it should be okay to drive them a harder.

Ya, I went with a little bigger than typical on the driver and still think they'll have room to run.

320h-2800a wired in parallel with 2 QB304's.

2800 ÷ 8(2)
=
175mA

I think the epistars have a 180mA max rating so even wide open she should handle it all. I didn't use the traces to connect the QB304's, it woulda been neater but I thought the heavy gage was a little better than the trace.

Because of the price I'm going to buy another one and see what it takes to get it to electrically fail. I can use (1) 320w driver and crank it lol But definitely a slate 2 would be nice or a bigger sink, 8 fans is getting a little ridic

(Btw my YouTube autoplay finally landed me on the ledgarder. Had no clue who errybody was talking about lol thought it was a guy on here. Anyways pretty much going to try to destroy a folite one like he tried an hlg )

Would be interesting to test flux at those overrated currents if temp was managed under 100°F/37.8°C. Or maybe they already do lol...

Same diode, same wattage, different temps, which is brighter? Are they equal?

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

How reliable are the CPU fan drivers? I'm using a 1A 12v driver for 8 fans each rated @ .12A. The driver gets hot, at least 135°F/57°C but I haven't tested for longer than 35min-ish.

 

[Randomblame]

How reliable are the CPU fan drivers? I'm using a 1A 12v driver for 8 fans each rated @ .12A. The driver gets hot, at least 135°F/57°C but I haven't tested for longer than 35min-ish.

Depends on the quality of the used parts. ~140°F/60°C is pretty hot and its maybe a good idea to use two 12v/1A drivers or one with 2amps. Such a 12v/2A driver costs 3 or 4$..

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

Depends on the quality of the used parts. ~140°F/60°C is pretty hot and its maybe a good idea to use two 12v/1A drivers or one with 2amps. Such a 12v/2A driver costs 3 or 4$..

View attachment 4264582

I won't fry the fans if I give em twice the rated current? If not could I just take a couple fans off the circuit?

 

[Randomblame]

I won't fry the fans if I give em twice the rated current? If not could I just take a couple fans off the circuit?
View attachment 4264587
View attachment 4264594
View attachment 4264592
View attachment 4264593

View attachment 4264595

View attachment 4264596

Lol! No! Fans need a constant voltage and a CV driver like this one above and they only take as much current as they need. You could use a 12v/5A driver to run just one of these fans without getting issues.
The driver gets hot because the fans use almost all available current. Remove two fans and only 75% current is used and the driver will stay a 10°C cooler.
I've used the exact same drivers to power up to three 0.25A 92mm fans (Arctic Alpine 11) and sold the fiture after a year and the fans were still running. I would just split the fans and use too of these drivers. You can also get them with 1,5 or 2amps..

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

Lol! No! Fans need a constant voltage and a CV driver like this one above and they only take as much current as they need. You could use a 12v/5A driver to run just one of these fans without getting issues.
The driver gets hot because the fans use almost all available current. Remove two fans and only 75% current is used and the driver will stay a 10°C cooler.
I've used the exact same drivers to power up to three 0.25A 92mm fans (Arctic Alpine 11) and sold the fiture after a year and the fans were still running. I would just split the fans and use too of these drivers. You can also get them with 1,5 or 2amps..

Kewl, I'll use (6) .12A fans per 1A driver. Thanks!

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

This work?


Can't find cheap 12v 2a drivers except these phone chargers?

Idk what I typed in last time but can't find shit for cheap little drivers lol brain is running low

 

[Randomblame]

Yepp, would work. To find the one posted above simply search for "12v driver"..

I like this type of drivers to drive PC fans cuz of their different voltage settings. Most fans are noisy at 12v but almost silent when running with 7 or 9 volts. You can also find them cheaper for around $8; was just the first one I found.
Also dimmers exsist for PC fans.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/YC668-3A-3...293697?hash=item2f27543801:g:FI8AAOSwYUZcBLxU

This work?
View attachment 4264653

Can't find cheap 12v 2a drivers except these phone chargers?

Idk what I typed in last time but can't find shit for cheap little drivers lol brain is running low

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

Got the singles from digi-key...

LM561cS6 - 3500°K

LM561cS5 - 3500°K

LM561bPlusS5 - 3500°K

LM561bPlusS0 - 3500°K

LM561bS2 - 3500°K


My worst-ish...


My best-ish...


Anyone got a way to test the flux?

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

These are the supposed chips (was sent the pic) but it shows S0 at the end??

 

[diyled]

The soldering on them last 4 pics, quality construction right there

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

The soldering on them last 4 pics, quality construction right there

I'm literally fighting to buy another board. I asked them about my suspicion of not being s6 and they scolded me as dishonest, and asked where I worked.

Then they asked me to get them flux tested before they would do anything, thinking I won't call their bluff. So I ask to buy another board so that when I send the first one into a lab that I have a replacement. Now they won't send anything till they get a test report from 3rd party. Saying it doesn't take long, kinda baiting me..

Sounding so scammy...

I'm pissed now tho. So idc what it costs, anyone wanna do a sphere test on one of my boards or whatever? If I have to buy from someone else to replace the one being tested I'm kewl with it. Its just basically the principle of being lied and manipulated that I'm butthurt about now. I knew they were probably not s6 but if they tell you they are and that you'll get your money back if they aren't, well that's another story.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I'm literally fighting to buy another board. I asked them about my suspicion of not being s6 and they scolded me as dishonest, and asked where I worked.

Then they asked me to get them flux tested before they would do anything, thinking I won't call their bluff. So I ask to buy another board so that when I send the first one into a lab that I have a replacement. Now they won't send anything till they get a test report from 3rd party. Saying it doesn't take long, kinda baiting me..

Sounding so scammy...

I'm pissed now tho. So idc what it costs, anyone wanna do a sphere test on one of my boards or whatever? If I have to buy from someone else to replace the one being tested I'm kewl with it. Its just basically the principle of being lied and manipulated that I'm butthurt about now. I knew they were probably not s6 but if they tell you they are and that you'll get your money back if they aren't, well that's another story.

Its very hard to prove that one diode is low bin diodes. The bins are usually around 7% wide, on the lower and the higher. So even if it has 7% (or whatever is the samsung criteria) less output than stated by the bin it can still be claimed to be top bin.
If you have 7% lower output on a whole board though it would make it hard to argue that all 288 diodes are "low performing" top bins. But 3 % lower might still be argued by a seller to be top bin, at least to a point where the alibubbahs trade insurance people let it pass.

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

Perhaps if you contact the eBay seller and ask them?

They don't have it I guess..

"...they told us supplier didn't provide us this informaion and we don't cooperate with this supplier now,Sorry for any inconvenience caused to you,we feel apologized..."

 

[chuckduck]

Never got around to posting my build that started this thread. Ended up with 8 panels per side (4x4) so light distribution is even throughout. Love these lights. Get dense flower. Don't regret the knockoff build one bit.

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

Never got around to posting my build that started this thread. Ended up with 8 panels per side (4x4) so light distribution is even throughout. Love these lights. Get dense flower. Don't regret the knockoff build one bit. View attachment 4284937 View attachment 4284938

QB336? (561c?)? How many watts per board? Did you design? Looks good!

?...

 

[chuckduck]

QB336? (561c?)? How many watts per board? Did you design? Looks good!

?...
View attachment 4284986

It's been awhile but they were supposed to be 561c but the guy mixed them up and I got the B+ version. Because of the mixup the guy let me make another order. With shipping it was around $35/board. You can go back to the first post and see the details. I just found the boards and decided to wing it. I love DIY but I tend to fall short on the execution. This, though, was very easy to build.
I just plugged the boards in the Kill-A-Watt and at 100% on the pot two boards pull 220 watts, so 110 per board. That's too much so I keep them at 150 per driver, so 75 per board. Serves me quite well.
They run cool. At 100% with no fan blowing over them I can hold my hand on them. It's hot, but I can hold it there. With them running at 75 watts each and a light fan breeze over them they are slightly warm.

 

[EatingSnakes]

I'm literally fighting to buy another board. I asked them about my suspicion of not being s6 and they scolded me as dishonest, and asked where I worked.

Then they asked me to get them flux tested before they would do anything, thinking I won't call their bluff. So I ask to buy another board so that when I send the first one into a lab that I have a replacement. Now they won't send anything till they get a test report from 3rd party. Saying it doesn't take long, kinda baiting me..

Sounding so scammy...

I'm pissed now tho. So idc what it costs, anyone wanna do a sphere test on one of my boards or whatever? If I have to buy from someone else to replace the one being tested I'm kewl with it. Its just basically the principle of being lied and manipulated that I'm butthurt about now. I knew they were probably not s6 but if they tell you they are and that you'll get your money back if they aren't, well that's another story.

Who's your supplier mate?

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

Who's your supplier mate?

My salesman was Rita Fang from the Shenzhen Meijiu Lighting Co on Alibaba.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/next-on-stage-rita-fang-and-the-alibaba-qbs.983145/