ShirkGoldbrick
Active Member
Hi everyone, so this will be my second grow, my first was incredibly unsuccesful. Out of 10 plants 10 germinated in rapid rooters and one died because I broke the tap root. (I thought it needed to go deeper into the rooter and it had already semi attached itself to the side).
The rest experienced stunting, chlorosis, and tip burn (despite not being fed any nutrients)
My reasons for failure:
1. My PH pen was functioning wrong (I just realized that now, new one is on order, some damage as to it's effects can be seen in my pictures of this post on the new seedlings)
2. I used HCl as pH down, this likely locked out Mg and or was toxic to the plants
3. I've seen a total of 3 fungus gnats, I have azomax on order as well as some strips to see if they're really a problem
4. I had over watered the soil
5. The soil was FFOF which may have burned them
I did have one plant that, despite all of my efforts to kill them was doing extremely well. It only had a tiny bit of tip burn. I moved it to a solo cup of 75/25 perlite/vermiculite with a top coating of FFOF and it did ok until it outgrew the cup. Once I put it back into FFOF the lower leaves began to burn, new growth has yellowing, growth is almost stunted, the lower branches fell off from their leaves being burned out, smaller dwarf leaves and branches are taking it's place but they too are experiencing some chlorosis and yellowing and tip burn. I never gave it any food.
I attribute a lot of my last failure to FFOF as being wayyyy too hot for BF critical kush. The fact it did well outside of the FFOF tells me it wasn't the HCl, but the salts may have built up, I did flush it once with no relief. I may have some fungus gnat larvae in the pot so I need to stop watering..that soil takes forevvvvver like over a week to dry out (7" plant in 3 gallon pot) I also may have some messed up pH, but FFOF is supposed to buffer.
This time I started 10 more BF critical kush, I had one die again, it sprouted two tap roots from the seed and the second had some TINY green on top that looked like cotyledons would open on it so I moved it to its own jiffy cube as it had ejected itself from the seed. It withered and died. The other one, which was still attached to the seed sprouted to the surface and opened but the stem was too flaccid to hold its own weight so it also withered and died. This may be because the seed was too close to the surface (I use them upside down and cut a hole for the seed with a razor). The rest I moved to coconut fiber pots with 75-85% perlite, 15-25% vermiculite and a light coating of worm castings on top.
Here they are, in no particular order. A couple look over watered/nitrogen toxicity and a little bit of tip burn. They were being fed silica boost and HCl pH down and looked fine but I gave them 1/4 tsp of dyna grow foliage pro in a gallon of water(which is a quarter dose) and again looked fine for another day but then I noticed some tip burn and a few of the first razor leafs are pointing straight down. I'm not sure if it's due to the chloride, the nutes, the bonk pH meter or what but they will be getting only RO water until the cotyledons start to yellow from now on. Until my pH meter gets here I can assume this will be acceptable as I had previously ph'd my RO water at 6.5 right after initial calibration with 23ppm TDS.
Oh, before the pics..a few side notes[sorry to keep you waiting].
1. Don't store your TDS meter in your tent, everything metal in the tent will rust and this will mess up any TDS readings as the tips rust.
2. Don't store your pH meter in your tent, the RO water started to grow some sort of algae that it was stored in
a. The pH and TDS meter will now be stored in a stock pH 7 solution in a normally unoccupied room, after exiting and before entering the stock solution they will be hit with a stream of RO water from a squeeze bottle to rinse off anything that may interfere with its readings. The stock solutions will be replaced periodically and will ensure accurate calibration every time I turn the pH meter on.
3. pH down will now be phosphoric acid
Pics (In no particular order):
Three pots to a tray, two 300w (not actual) LEDS are providing the light about two feet up. The distances are the same as last time but these stems are just a bit longer than my previous seedlings.
Temp: 80
Humidity: 40-50
Pictures: LEDs are off and under a 100w daylight CFL with a phone.
What do you all think? Thoughts, suggestions, comments?
The rest experienced stunting, chlorosis, and tip burn (despite not being fed any nutrients)
My reasons for failure:
1. My PH pen was functioning wrong (I just realized that now, new one is on order, some damage as to it's effects can be seen in my pictures of this post on the new seedlings)
2. I used HCl as pH down, this likely locked out Mg and or was toxic to the plants
3. I've seen a total of 3 fungus gnats, I have azomax on order as well as some strips to see if they're really a problem
4. I had over watered the soil
5. The soil was FFOF which may have burned them
I did have one plant that, despite all of my efforts to kill them was doing extremely well. It only had a tiny bit of tip burn. I moved it to a solo cup of 75/25 perlite/vermiculite with a top coating of FFOF and it did ok until it outgrew the cup. Once I put it back into FFOF the lower leaves began to burn, new growth has yellowing, growth is almost stunted, the lower branches fell off from their leaves being burned out, smaller dwarf leaves and branches are taking it's place but they too are experiencing some chlorosis and yellowing and tip burn. I never gave it any food.
I attribute a lot of my last failure to FFOF as being wayyyy too hot for BF critical kush. The fact it did well outside of the FFOF tells me it wasn't the HCl, but the salts may have built up, I did flush it once with no relief. I may have some fungus gnat larvae in the pot so I need to stop watering..that soil takes forevvvvver like over a week to dry out (7" plant in 3 gallon pot) I also may have some messed up pH, but FFOF is supposed to buffer.
This time I started 10 more BF critical kush, I had one die again, it sprouted two tap roots from the seed and the second had some TINY green on top that looked like cotyledons would open on it so I moved it to its own jiffy cube as it had ejected itself from the seed. It withered and died. The other one, which was still attached to the seed sprouted to the surface and opened but the stem was too flaccid to hold its own weight so it also withered and died. This may be because the seed was too close to the surface (I use them upside down and cut a hole for the seed with a razor). The rest I moved to coconut fiber pots with 75-85% perlite, 15-25% vermiculite and a light coating of worm castings on top.
Here they are, in no particular order. A couple look over watered/nitrogen toxicity and a little bit of tip burn. They were being fed silica boost and HCl pH down and looked fine but I gave them 1/4 tsp of dyna grow foliage pro in a gallon of water(which is a quarter dose) and again looked fine for another day but then I noticed some tip burn and a few of the first razor leafs are pointing straight down. I'm not sure if it's due to the chloride, the nutes, the bonk pH meter or what but they will be getting only RO water until the cotyledons start to yellow from now on. Until my pH meter gets here I can assume this will be acceptable as I had previously ph'd my RO water at 6.5 right after initial calibration with 23ppm TDS.
Oh, before the pics..a few side notes[sorry to keep you waiting].
1. Don't store your TDS meter in your tent, everything metal in the tent will rust and this will mess up any TDS readings as the tips rust.
2. Don't store your pH meter in your tent, the RO water started to grow some sort of algae that it was stored in
a. The pH and TDS meter will now be stored in a stock pH 7 solution in a normally unoccupied room, after exiting and before entering the stock solution they will be hit with a stream of RO water from a squeeze bottle to rinse off anything that may interfere with its readings. The stock solutions will be replaced periodically and will ensure accurate calibration every time I turn the pH meter on.
3. pH down will now be phosphoric acid
Pics (In no particular order):
Three pots to a tray, two 300w (not actual) LEDS are providing the light about two feet up. The distances are the same as last time but these stems are just a bit longer than my previous seedlings.
Temp: 80
Humidity: 40-50
Pictures: LEDs are off and under a 100w daylight CFL with a phone.
What do you all think? Thoughts, suggestions, comments?
