NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

bty soil or coco you want a slurry 0f at least 450 500 ppms 400 will manifest as a slight deff ( Fadeing clawing ) not very green plants low vigor ,and if your late to feed your gona see some problem in a few hours to a day depending on media. If you under samsung 301h or Bs and or high intensity cobs with 660nm and or uv with 680 far and deep reds (Emerson effect) or any double ended shit 400ppms is a very bad idea unless you keep your light way to high for good results .
 
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Smokey thanks for the info it really helps. That bud looks fire!
I am using two Chilled Led 330watt leds that use lm301b diodes in a 4x4 tent and I have struggled to keep my plants green this whole grow.
I was doing the f-f-t-f-f-flush with around 600ppm. I was feeding so low because I had some good tip burn, maybe it was from too much kelp via recharge?
I am almost done with my first grow. The buds look good but all the bigger leaves are either purple, yellow or completely dead. The plant basically cannabilized itself starting week 7. Next grow I am going to feed every water at higher ppm.
 
MontanaCo2 said:
Smokey thanks for the info it really helps. That bud looks fire!
I am using two Chilled Led 330watt leds that use lm301b diodes in a 4x4 tent and I have struggled to keep my plants green this whole grow.
I was doing the f-f-t-f-f-flush with around 600ppm. I was feeding so low because I had some good tip burn, maybe it was from too much kelp via recharge?
I am almost done with my first grow. The buds look good but all the bigger leaves are either purple, yellow or completely dead. The plant basically cannabilized itself starting week 7. Next grow I am going to feed every water at higher ppm.
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The chilled stuff is the truth . I was really considering a chilled but decided to go diy with sun boards. I am working on a 17 board 10 -900w Samsung 301h-301b with 665nm osrams 680 deep 680 far osrams with uv. I am a cob guy so this will be my first time using surface mount diodes . My light is old and I only feed every two days in flower if the plants allows. I have the felling I may not be able to make it two days without feeding if really want to take advantage of my new light. I may shove a small handful of one shot into each slurry port to get away with two days without food or be buffering with tuns Gm phed high 6s under the crazy par.
 
NanoGadget said:
Maybe I've been running salts in dtw for too long now, but that ppm looks absolutely insane to me! Even pushing hard I haven't been over 1200 ppm in years. fascinating.
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A huge part of that number is Ca. The plans
MontanaCo2 said:
Smokey thanks for the info it really helps. That bud looks fire!
I am using two Chilled Led 330watt leds that use lm301b diodes in a 4x4 tent and I have struggled to keep my plants green this whole grow.
I was doing the f-f-t-f-f-flush with around 600ppm. I was feeding so low because I had some good tip burn, maybe it was from too much kelp via recharge?
I am almost done with my first grow. The buds look good but all the bigger leaves are either purple, yellow or completely dead. The plant basically cannabilized itself starting week 7. Next grow I am going to feed every water at higher ppm.
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Its important to remember tox and def manifest completely differently with organic chelates . That was not burn. It confuses even the best when they move to Organic chelates
 
no one here in coco is probaly over feeding you are just letting your ph slip before your plant has kicked into gear or running the wrong ph . The PH gradient in coco is a fine line for most genetics. always start high ph and work down . Its easy to fix a high ph a little harder to fix a low and your coco starts high and slips with time anyways. In coco Stop worrying about the numbers and just keep your ph in check and your plants will eat what you throw them if your lights are capable and your water is good. I keep forgetting to mention if your under power in coco and your plants are gangbusters many genetics absolutely need a mag boost . This only applys to organic chelates ,If you follow these rules and numbers with salts you got dead plants quick.
 
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another note. My slurricane will start to fade at tips below the 500s my cnc is still looks fine at tips down to low 400s. when i get down close to that 500 its time to feed again. I had a donky dick pineapplefeilds back in the day that wouldn't go below 500 without showing hunger.
 
With my cob monochrome lights at 17' on a mover my plants where eating over well over 80 ppms per hour early week 5 according to the math of my slurry's. Uptake is down a little here a few hours form week 6 to low 80s, but im also just working down the 4 tsp and 1 tsb of BK . If you think about this, it probably means my plants are consuming well over 100 ppms an hour when lights are on. Slurry ports have been my friend.
 
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If I’m feeding every 2 days at ppm 2700 … with slurries at 390 ppm and ph of 6.7 ….. with tea feeds at 500 ppm …… this is under a 315w CMH ……
 
NanoGadget said:
Maybe I've been running salts in dtw for too long now, but that ppm looks absolutely insane to me! Even pushing hard I haven't been over 1200 ppm in years. fascinating.
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Even when I amend soil have a young clone or seedling in there the slurry some times get to 2600 ppm …. Again as long as your ph is in range …. Should be fine , then if you get into humidity and temps , that a changer too…. With tent closed… my temps stay at 77 degrees and humidity around 58. Percent ….. less humidity the plant takes up more… with that in mind takes up more nutrients , this is where some burn comes into play …. Less humidity dial back on the nutrient uptake less ppms ….
 
My veg tent gets 1 tbsp-3 cups of 2600 depending on size and stage even more If there behind I give my flowering plants 5-6 cups of 2600-2700 (genitc dependent) every day per plant, or 10 maybe even 12 in early mid flower when I'm doing every other day. And at the high end of that amount if I buffer with Gm in veg and transition, or buffer with GM and Herk during flower ,or if its tea day. When I am feeding every other day I buffer my coco often and have to go big with the food. I feed every thing about the same ppms from seed to flower its all about how much 2600ppm I am giving compared to my Buffer mix I am giving. So a seedling would get saturated with the buffer then maybe just a 1-tbsp of the food mix. Moving on from the seedling, If you running new genetic Its good to throw 3- 4 -5 tbsp DD in that mix to fill that number until you target how much MM GM you can get in there. Most plants can tolerate a ton of DD and its a coco necessity for most genetics but i can say I had a pheno of silver kush that did not need much DD ,less than a tbsp. Remember Im talking non bufferd coco here not soil. Giving up to 10-12 cups 2600-2700 ppm under 315w cmh IDK maybe @bubba73 would have to answer that never herd of anything close to that in soil indoors. That's important I don't want to mess someone up and they go and give a gallon at 2600ppms to a small plant in coco or soil. I defiantly don't recommend my way in soil as you don't need the ph buffer in soil. My way will not give people The perfect photogenic plant, It will only give plenty of tight ,encrusted, photogenic buds without having to feed daily in coco. I recommend as many every day feedings during stretch as you can to get every thing a fukn green as you can while its easy. 3-4-5-6-7 Tbsp AA ,2-3-4-5 tbsp DD .Get that mother green green green and and start bombarding that girl with photons. Keep the AA up through flower until the plant starts to slow then start dropping fast . Remember this is for non bufferd coco because I believe you will find it hard to fade in soil if you run that much AA that late. Another reminder that coco and soil are way different even soil with coco functions nothing like pure coco most importantly completely different cacheion exchange capacity second if you dry your coco in flower with Nectar your in for double troubles due to a billion dead bacteria acidifying your coco, there water retention is different and unlike soil you cant get away with slurry's of 390 without consequences manifesting a few days later . If you go in with a soil mindset or think your coco infused soil works like coco your coming out scratching your head. If you plant is at 500 in coco and your light is close you might have less than two hours to problems. Another huge mistake i made as a new grower was to make little mistakes in coco and forget about it, then 24 to 48 hours the damage would manifest and I would instantly flush (huge coco nono) thinking I overfed the night before and leave my plant for 24 hours. NO NO NO NO NO . Never flush or tea your coco and not feed very soon (30 mins). You have got to remember you feeding mistakes and wate for the problem. I know you all have heard when in doubt flush it out. NO NO NO NO When in doubt in coco fkn Slurry. Watch the color of you tips consistently in coco. Your tips will yellow and green very quickly in coco (1-2hours) if you done something write or wrong . Before you feed your plants take a pic of the angle of the leaves . In coco your leaves will ever so slightly start to either claw or pray in as little as 20 Mins after feed or flush. Be warned sometimes if you put in a mix of food that is phd to far off the coco range but still in range for the plants you will get a temporary claw until things even out . Its dose'nt cause any problems and the plant is back to prayer in a few hours. The stronger your lights the quicker this all happens. Holy shit Im done for today. Smokey has ASD/ADHD and can be very hard to read so thanks for the effort .
 
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All my leaves are turning brown and crunchy. Is this leaf damage from underfeeding?

Plant is at 10weeks. Flushing for a week then chopping.
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My apologizes @MontanaCo2, My comment is regarding the top pic. Trichomes are the best indicator of ripeness . Clear is unripe. A little milk swirling in its time to watch close and maybe even flush depending on media and strain but that's a limited few strains and soil. Mostly milky and depending on your cannabinoid system and preferences you might want to start flushing. If your like me and you like your shit stone heavy you can start flushing when 10% -30% amber. Its what you like past early milk. Once a plant has spent most its chlorophyll it can be very hard to clean up the smoke unless you underfed the shit out of it. You might need to put a god cure on it and gas it out as much a possible. Hopefully you did not use any or much Mag because mag cant convert it to gas during the cure, its stuck there. One of the great things about this line is you very well could still have fire there depending on a few factors.
 
So Ph dose need to be up during most of flower but as the need for phosphates slows in later weeks is ok to drop back down again to let your plant access N a little easier . You may want to step down a little as soon as you see a little fading if your in week 7 or beyond . If your late in flower and you see fading its probably time to step down the feed and Ph to a more accessible range for N .
 
All my slurries have been low 200ppms and low 6ph. The biggest fan leaves started turning brown/crunchy around week 8 and it started at the top of the plant first. Once I saw this I started feeding less and it kept getting worse. That's why I am confused what is going on. It looks like nute burn but all the leaves are yellowing and purple? I never fed over 650ppms in soil and was doing f-f-t-f-f-flush
I would start flushing but all the trichomes are clear.
Maybe the high power led lights with low nutrients caused this. My other plants are just really yellow but not crunchy brown. All my plants are at 70+ days and won't ripen.
 
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If you made it that long running 200 ppms in your soil I,m thinking par is way low and thats why you cant ripen. The only way I can wrap my brain around plants that nice with numbers that low is way to low light intensity. Was it a super soil of some kind? Where the lights close ? Check your timer make sure your not running lights on to short.
 
Unclejoe51 said:
I've been using NFTG for about a year now. I switched from H&G because I wanted to go organic. I do use a little Great White during veg & foliar spray with both Posidenzyme & Pegasus Potion during veg & the first couple weeks of bud. After that I use Posidenzyme in the water & also use Bloom Khaos & Tritons Trawl throughout the bud phase. I'm quite happy with the results I've been getting. I get about the same production as I did with H&G but the flavor is a better. I use some Hurculean Harvest & Aphrodite's when flushing. My water comes out of the tap at 6.8 so, I have good water & don't adjust the ph during flush. I flush for 2 full weeks. Life is good!!!!!
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Have any pictures???
 
Just noticed the low 6s . I 100% recommend mid -high 6s in flower. I'm not sure if you where targeting the low 6s are just where you are ending up but that plant probably needed a higher Ph than your other plant . Even different phenos of the same strain may be vastly different in Ph needs through out different stages of life. I find I need to change Ph from plant plant even more than numbers. I can get every thing to eat the same numbers by the amount I give each plant but I always need to match the Ph to the plants wants.
 
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