NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

fatboislim216

fatboislim216

Member
ProPheT 216 said:
Very nice pictures, and very reflective grow area. 2 thumbs up :weed:
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thanks man but my critical jack is starting to yellow out on the bottom im thinking it wants more nitrogen i am using tap letting it sit for atleast 18 hours. and growth been slow this week so i think they need transplanting im going into 3 gallons 14down to 12 going to kill two jillybeans. total of 12 plants i to a 4x4 flower tent in 3 more weeks after trantsplant or 2 1/2 foot tall atleast before 12/12 week before 12/12 going to veg under hps so it get used to hps light abd less shock . their 4 weeks from seed some 2 weeks and all been topped once ready for 2nd going to top atleast 4 times of needed. but my jilly side shoots has grown out and became tops of their own some jilly already have 6 tops its a krazey plant always christmas tree like form and the side shoot always form into tops
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
fatboislim216 said:
thanks man but my critical jack is starting to yellow out on the bottom im thinking it wants more nitrogen i am using tap letting it sit for atleast 18 hours. and growth been slow this week so i think they need transplanting im going into 3 gallons 14down to 12 going to kill two jillybeans. total of 12 plants i to a 4x4 flower tent in 3 more weeks after trantsplant or 2 1/2 foot tall atleast before 12/12 week before 12/12 going to veg under hps so it get used to hps light abd less shock . their 4 weeks from seed some 2 weeks and all been topped once ready for 2nd going to top atleast 4 times of needed. but my jilly side shoots has grown out and became tops of their own some jilly already have 6 tops its a krazey plant always christmas tree like form and the side shoot always form into tops
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4 weeks from seed prolly don't need a transplant. U could grow the plant in a liter starter pot, or even a solo cup, after everything I've went thru and taught my self the hard way.... If your using the nftg line the nutrients are their in the most available form. You are either experiencing lockout do to hi ppm (over 500) in your soil, or you have very active soil and the organic break down in your soil is creating lots of organic acids and the soil pH is lower than you realize. Please do the following
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Nectar Man
This looks like potassium deficiency. Administering a soil slurry test should reveal the cause. 2 oz of active soil and 2 oz of neutral water mixed together and then dipping your pH and PPM meters directly into the slurry. This gives us a general living environment for our root systems. With the Nectar line, the ideal conditions would be a pH in the mid 6's and PPM's between 200-400. Any PPM exceeding 600 or higher will result in protein and calcium lock out. If your slurry is not in the ideal range, administering a flush with the Herculean Harvest and Olympus up adjusted to balance the salt or pH issues. IE..... if the pH in the slurry is 5.5 then doing a flush with a pH of 7.0 will buffer the organic acids in the medium, allowing for calcium to absorb into the root zone again. Or if the PPM's are over 1000 i the slurry, using 3-4 TBLS of Herculean Harvest pH to mid 6's will tie up the slats more aggressively as well as give them a calcium boost that will re-stimulate nutrient uptake. If the leaves look like this towards the bottom of the plant, this means that the plant is taking potassium from the older leaves and relocating it to the new growth. If it is occurring in the new growth, then there is not enough potassium present at the time of feeding. This is where Poseidonzime would help. Poseidonzime is a north atlantic sea kelp. Any Liquid seaweed will work to help fix and prevent this issue.
 
fatboislim216

fatboislim216

Member
ProPheT 216 said:
Originally Posted by Nectar Man
This looks like potassium deficiency. Administering a soil slurry test should reveal the cause. 2 oz of active soil and 2 oz of neutral water mixed together and then dipping your pH and PPM meters directly into the slurry. This gives us a general living environment for our root systems. With the Nectar line, the ideal conditions would be a pH in the mid 6's and PPM's between 200-400. Any PPM exceeding 600 or higher will result in protein and calcium lock out. If your slurry is not in the ideal range, administering a flush with the Herculean Harvest and Olympus up adjusted to balance the salt or pH issues. IE..... if the pH in the slurry is 5.5 then doing a flush with a pH of 7.0 will buffer the organic acids in the medium, allowing for calcium to absorb into the root zone again. Or if the PPM's are over 1000 i the slurry, using 3-4 TBLS of Herculean Harvest pH to mid 6's will tie up the slats more aggressively as well as give them a calcium boost that will re-stimulate nutrient uptake. If the leaves look like this towards the bottom of the plant, this means that the plant is taking potassium from the older leaves and relocating it to the new growth. If it is occurring in the new growth, then there is not enough potassium present at the time of feeding. This is where Poseidonzime would help. tPoseidonzime is a north atlantic sea kelp. Any Liquid seaweed will work to help fix and prevent this issue.
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thanks man i did a runoff test it ph to 6.9
 
fatboislim216

fatboislim216

Member
my critical jack is the only one yellow from bottom. but what ive notice is some of my other one got small spot first yellow then brownish red color then a small hole on fan leaves i believe its me giving them water syraight from tap on the early stages. its weird my tap ph changes from time to time sometimes its a 7 sometimes higher like 7.8
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
fatboislim216 said:
my critical jack is the only one yellow from bottom. but what ive notice is some of my other one got small spot first yellow then brownish red color then a small hole on fan leaves i believe its me giving them water syraight from tap on the early stages. its weird my tap ph changes from time to time sometimes its a 7 sometimes higher like 7.8
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I concur, the water here doses fluctuate between 7.0 right now and 7.8 in warmer months.... Melting snow? Idk. And run off is not the same as the slurry test. Bet you get different results if you do a slurry
 
tkowitha123

tkowitha123

Well-Known Member
I promise you will get different results if you do an active soil or (slurry test) like the good prophet says, my runoff last week was like 5.8 didn't ppm it but, my plants aren't showing any sign of problems. all runoff is: is the water and salts that didn't hold in the growing medium, not what the medium actually is at so i never feed less than 6.3 or more than 6.6 (or try) and my run off is between 5.5 and 5.8. Just saying prophet is giving you good advice man I would take it
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
tkowitha123 said:
I promise you will get different results if you do an active soil test like the prophet says, my runoff last week was like 5.8 didn't ppm it but, my plants aren't showing any sign of problems. all runoff is: is the water and salts that didn't hold in the growing medium, not what the medium actually is at so i never feed less than 6.3 or more than 6.6 (or try) and my run off is between 5.5 and 5.8. Just saying prophet is giving you good advice man I would take it
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My pH likes to drop to 5.5 in the soil. A Olympus flush gets it to 6.5 but after another feed its was back to about 5.7. The ppms in my soil are fine so I don't need the herc flush to gets salts out. This last feed I pH adjusted my nutrients to 6.9 knowing it was going to drop rapidly. Slowly but surly looks like this will get my pH back up. Bottom line I guess, soil tests really help you know what you have going on, and if you should adjust your feeds pH or be flushing instead of feeding. I'll keep with 6.8 from here on till my soil comes up a Lil more then work down to 6.6. But 6.4-6.5 and 6.6-6.8 are my new veg n flower numbers.
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
fatboislim216 said:
my critical jack is the only one yellow from bottom. but what ive notice is some of my other one got small spot first yellow then brownish red color then a small hole on fan leaves i believe its me giving them water syraight from tap on the early stages. its weird my tap ph changes from time to time sometimes its a 7 sometimes higher like 7.8
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The tap water only drives the salts in your medium further into your roots unless you do a true flush. Just watering every 2nd or 3rd feed to try to squeak out a Lil mini flush gave me bad results personally. I don't know if you are doing that but if your not don't start ; )
 
tkowitha123

tkowitha123

Well-Known Member
I agree better to do an actual flush when needed than starving the plant for food too often or doing "Mini flushes" Flush once between veg and flower if needed if not then just flush at the end of bloom when your getting close to harvest. I've found that using the max dosage if H.H. seems to help make things more readily available and seems tp help me not need to flush between veg and bloom. I grow on a perpetual schedule with mostly all the same strain, so I'm able to try things 2 weeks down the line and see if it corrects any issues I had in the plant that came before it, and so far it seems like I can't give them too much H.H. although I'm sure its possible.
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
fatboislim216 said:
what ive notice as of late is that i have to feed almost everyday now
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U do the test? Your plants are probably only eating for the first hr or 2 of feeding cuz your pH is off and it drops your nuts and then the plants stop getting food. Your soil ppms r probably through the roof 2
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
Took cuttings today. They went into rockwool cubes that soaked in 1 ml super thrive, 3ml bio root, and 1tsp Zeus per gal for 48 hrs at 5.7 pH. (I pH adjusted solution to 5.5, 12 hrs later it was 6.1, readjusted to 5.5 36 hrs later holding at 5.7). I am very eager to share my results.
 
fatboislim216

fatboislim216

Member
thanks but im going into office now but missing a tool ec meter i ph pen but my cost of living and economy caused me to make a choice and cheap ph pen it is lol but im going to do a slurry test of ph
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
fatboislim216 said:
thanks but im going into office now but missing a tool ec meter i ph pen but my cost of living and economy caused me to make a choice and cheap ph pen it is lol but im going to do a slurry test of ph
Click to expand...
Wish someone would of told me to buy some 7.0 buffer solution when I got my meter. You can use the buffer for storage as well as calibration. If your pH is off do a Olympus flush at 7 using 3 tbls hh per gallon
 
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