NFTG. Nectar For The Gods
- Thread starter ProPheT 216
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I use SLF every time to help with the "Gum "
like the herc ideal to ph it down , I was thinking using Olympus up or hades down for the PH .... I like the idea of using my own amended soil along with the castings ...and I was also thinking maybe add a cap full of fullon to get some minerals in the RO before I start the brew ...update !!! went ahead and ordered me the TeaLab snake ...
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IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Nice....you will have all the proper tools to make amazing teas!! Just take the time to clean after use!! Full-On will be good to remineralize, and drop ph some....then herc or Hades or oly, take it 6.2 and then add your recipe!! Bubble away, I check ph throughout just to see what's going on....it usually climbs again, just don't worry about the ph when applying. You don't want to change the ph up or down of the finished brew, just pour away. The soil will buffer any swings as the microbes do their thing. Ph is more for uptake of feeds and a TEA is not for feeding so not as critical. Take a ferment or bokashi tea for instance...they are super low ph applications but with quality soil, it isn't an issue...once the microbe war happens the soil ph will stabalize!! I think it's also important if your bubbling teas to have some form of TopD in place, or in your case ammended soil is good and TopD would just be that much better, so the microbes have more to eat once in soil.I Having sufficient food for them is extremely important, if they dont, they can starve and cause mass death....throwing off the balance and releasing all the nutrients from there dead bodies at once making available to the plant and can cause organic nute burn, build up, lock out, ph swings from all the organic acids in their belly....then your chasing your tail and trying to figure out what went wrong, pouring on snake oils to try and fix, blaming the tea,etc.....haha. Doesn't have to be much food, it just allows for some balance, your gonna be pouring ridiculous #'s of biology into your soil with successful brews and shouldn't just be bubbled & applied on your schedule of ease, needs to be at points when the whole system can handle it......it's kind of advanced stuff I know, but its a great way to learn nutrient cycling!! All the successful no till growers might apply AACT 2 or 3 times during the whole cycle and usually following a TopD application.....by the time they get to the 3rd or 4th full cycle, they don't even use teas anymore because the soil ecosystem is so in balance that a TEA could disrupt things, they just TopD to keep the the soil fed!!
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Sorry to keep piling on the info but I like to explain what to expect from these different applications and my experience and understanding of the "WHY", "HOW" of this organic madness!! Far too many of us just try tips n tricks from these forums and don't get past the TEA recipe or the magic bullet remedies, having no clue what the cause and effects are. Done correctly with a little bit of understanding, quality and yields will surpass anything hydro can produce, with exception to DWC and yield comparisons...LOL
thanks for the info !!!! always learning.. I just look and im not getting froth like I seen on some video ? was told not to worry about it ... and when you said they die off and put out organic acid , I think thats what happen when I did a transplant at 1 time .. I did a dr root / Bigfoot granular in transplant hole then I watered with dr root/ veg tea , day or 2 later my ph went up to 7.3-.5 and the plant look sick .. she recovered after a week but I wonder if thats what happen "overload" with no food for the microbes ? and are you saying not do a brew tea every other tea schedule , but only a few times thru the plants life ?
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Thats probably definitely what happened, we talked about it a few posts back. And yes, Don't worry about the froth, it mainly stems from foodstocks like fish aminos or alfalfa, and sometimes only shows up the last few hours. Just trust your nose, the molasses smell should slowly disappear. How many hours have you been brewing? And I wouldn't bubble every single tea day with the F-F-T-F-F-FL routine, I would bubble at all the growth transitions....mid VEG to power growth, transition, week 4 bloom would be a simple guideline. If you really want to push, bubble every other week but stay on top of soil food to prevent crash. The FFTFF is recommended to help anyone new to line get through with great results. I just FEED steady and TopD/TEA at key stages, and only HH flush/reset if issues pop up. The FFTFF keeps issues at bay but this line can be pushed way harder once understood!!
just watch the show !!!! its funny , me and Scott been messaging back and forth on brewing all week long and tonite the show on more brewing !!!! and of course on here chatting it up with you . I do agree it can be push harder , im trying a few different things out changing a few MLs here and there starting early and taking some out and adding more in , but I can't say nothing till finish to see what it does , I have written details on what I did .... and I aways said I go by what my slurries tells me will depend whats my next move..
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IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
I thought that might have been the case.......they even were talking RO water and BOOGIE filters recently. Gotta love this NECTAR family!! Not many other companies are this helpful that's for sure.
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Spot on brotha, all of the above!! And if you have, or start, a worm bin.....put spent TEA remains in it, they go nuts when I do it, must be some Tastey stuff...ha
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
My go to brew-- I half the molasses to 10 ml total and use half the recommended powdered fish hydrolidsate (Thrive.N fish aminos) to 2 Tbs. Per 4 gallons H2O. Its !! Adds diversity from food stock, foams nice...LOL, and the light fish smell is a great indicator of when they have eaten all the food, The nose Knows!! Sometimes you can bubble a little longer, up to 36-48 hours if you still smell the food sources.....CRAZY BIOLOGIC DIVERSITY!! It all comes down to the starting castings/compost though, if not the very best quality you can get your hands on, it becomes the limiting factor!!
thanks for your help with brewing ! im learning quick with a crash course..lol... I like how Scott is getting with his videos about keeping it nectar or nectar related ... see when fullon was bought up and using it as a flush ? or how fullon leaches out the "salts" ? SLF100 does the same thing ? I have to play with this and the "flush" and im gonna start to play with the "taste" , "appeal" and the loudness more ...
got a few things today . gro-kashi , frass ( fungus gnats ) , Be-1 , oly mountain fish , uncle Jims castings , coast of Maine lobster compost ... little for tea little for amendment ....I won't be using all of this at week 4 bloom .. using frass now cause some issues ...
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Lookin good my friend, Your not F-ing around!! fungus gnats are pretty common nuisance when top dressing composts, more of a pain. I always have a few buzzing around. I'm of the belief that the plant needs a little pest pressure to mimic outside environments and keep plant on its toes!! Obviously if there s swarms of them it needs addressed.
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
The Oly mountain and coast of maine will add some good diverse biology to your next brew!! My worm bins are 5 gallon fabric pots filled with CofM Lobster, I amend it like the COOTS living soil recipe and throw a few handfuls of worms in, they start working it over quick, don't need to feed them for 1-2 months and then I just topdress with used AACT, kelp, neem, malted barley, frass, and the "Avacado trick" for forcing mass breeding!! Pump spray a 1/2 gallon of H2O w/ yucca thermx70 once a week to maintain moisture and BOOM, after one full cycle you have pure garden gold and the best tea castings on the block!!
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
I use Full-on at 2 ml when ripening with TT, HH, AE & Oly!! It has a negative charge, I've been shocked taking the cap off!! It grabs hold of positively charged ions, salts and more importantly Heavy Metals!! HH ties up the salts too, Adding SLF to the party is slurry number based. If your ppm numbers are on the high side, say 450-600+ , leave the SLF out of the recipe. When the FULLON and HH tie up the excesses, you want them tied up, so at your next watering you can water to run off and push them out. With SLF in the mix, your putting a hungry army in to eat the tied up excesses converting it to food, organic acids, enzymes, etc. So if ripening, Add SLF to your first ripening flush to go to work on whatever is left in the soil, I use EM1 here too, then just regular ripening flush till the end with No microbial/enzymes. Add Tritons & Aphrodites to pump oils, colors and flavors. Persephones too but I'm still dialing, havnt found the sweet spot!! So as far as SLF and fullon for all the other flushes during the grow, it too comes down to SLURRIES, rule of thumb= low or in range toss it in(this would be like a reset flush)(or a NO FLUSH), high and out of range hold off until plant can handle what they do......especially Full-on, those negative ions grab hold of all the goodies too and can take them into the plant easily and very quickly!! The more you dial and get used to everything, you won't be flushing during the grow near as much, or doing SLURRIES. The plant will tell you all you need to know!!
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
What's the issue? Gnats I imagine, if so, You got any neem meal? You can sprinkle a light topdress, plus 2 tsp. BE-1(the pellets have chitin) and water it in with a Bokashi and Frass Tea-- this tea is super easy, no bag or bubbling.....just throw it in some molasses water and let sit overnight 12 hours, 24 hours is fine/better, but let the TEA you just applied do its thing for a few days.....a couple more feeds.....TopD & Grokashi/Frass Tea. SLF also can kill gnat larvae, maybe in the 30-45 ml per gallon range. This tea is also a good nutrient cycler, its like EM-1 on crystal meth!! And gnats won't have a chance, NEEM will work on breaking the life & feed cycle and the chitin may degrade them but I think its more complex, I think the microbes attracted by the chitin and the beneficial nematodes are responsible. All the while the plant is playing a roll too, activating its SAR's(SystemicAquiredResponses) that trigger oil & resin production!!! Win win win.....So do you really have an issue? mild pest pressure is a good thing believe it or not, just need to steer in a direction to our benefit. You definitely have the tools homey!!