NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

SmokeyMcscrogin said:

Just a 4 way aquarium pump split to two stones nothing special. I am going to put the pump on a timer soon so the water is oxygenated and ready when I am ready. I aerate the water every other feeding. I will be honest I think its mostly a waste of time in coco with all the symbiotic anaerobes I throw in the rootzone but I aerate my nutrient waster anyways.

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What anaerobes are you using?
And your right, pre-aerating is a waste unless your bubbling chlorine off, as soon as you throw in nutrients the built up dissolved oxygen gets whipped out, especially with the low levels of air stones. Your better to mix nutes and then bubble it if your trying to up the dissolved oxygen levels in your feed water. I've used my bubble snake w/ a 35W pump to bubble nectar but it still doesn't keep all the nutes in soluton, larger particles settle into the dead spots. I have a vortex brewer with a 100W pump too that eliminates this issue but life gets in the way and seems I never have the time to use it with nectar.......I definitely use it for teas though, its a Cadillac!!

YOOOOO IRIE!!!!!!..good looking out on the Strainly link....and what up to you all Merry Christmas happy thanksgiving

zzeroo said:

YOOOOO IRIE!!!!!!..good looking out on the Strainly link....and what up to you all Merry Christmas happy thanksgiving

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Strainly is useful, just try to stick to the actual breeders and seedbanks, the reviews help too. I'm weary of the sellers That are new and just peddling hype or their unwanted vault seed, or just fakes.

IrieRoots said:

Strainly is useful, just try to stick to the actual breeders and seedbanks, the reviews help too. I'm weary of the sellers That are new and just peddling hype or their unwanted vault seed, or just fakes.

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IrieRoots said:

It's a micronized Roots Organic product, so it's pretty soluble and can either be bubbled 24 hrs or just immediately drenched. Its bag guano, fish bone, feather meal, kelp, dolomite, crab, soybean,and kieserite( 3-7-4) the N is insoluble so great to feed a bubbled tea, calmag is 8%/1%, sulfur 2%......It can be used as a standalone nutrient too so can feed & get a tea in!! Plus I like the Terp profile that bat guano produces, I don't go heavy with but I like to use it up to about week 5/6 so not combating any salts when ripening. There is an amino acid that is only found in guano, and fish scales, called guanine that is responsible for the plants DNA & RNA makeup so I'm of the opinion to unlock pheno expressions, its DNA & RNA has to be functioning properly so I use whole fish ferments in veg that litterally has scales floating in the bottle and I use lite Terp Tea when building flowers. My 2 cents anyways.

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If use as bubble tea do you need to add molasses?

508blunemo said:

If use as bubble tea do you need to add molasses?

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Not necessarily, it kind of of depends on the ingredients used. But standard aerated teas that are just good worm castings or compost, most use molasses or fish hydrolysate as the food source. Both work great and at the same time not necessarily needed.

IrieRoots said:

What anaerobes are you using?
And your right, pre-aerating is a waste unless your bubbling chlorine off, as soon as you throw in nutrients the built up dissolved oxygen gets whipped out, especially with the low levels of air stones. Your better to mix nutes and then bubble it if your trying to up the dissolved oxygen levels in your feed water. I've used my bubble snake w/ a 35W pump to bubble nectar but it still doesn't keep all the nutes in soluton, larger particles settle into the dead spots. I have a vortex brewer with a 100W pump too that eliminates this issue but life gets in the way and seems I never have the time to use it with nectar.......I definitely use it for teas though, its a Cadillac!!

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Hi Irie I have been busy catching up from my back injury . Whatever anarobes are in the bottles and whatever is in my worm leachate I never really put much research into them.

508blunemo said:

If use as bubble tea do you need to add molasses?

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Molasses brews a tea that is populated with both fungi and bacteria but I believe most times are more bacterial dominate in my brews, but there is much argument over this probably because no two teas brew alike. As you add hydrolysate the tea will become more fungal dom and take a little longer to brew . a lot of guys brew bacterial teas for veg and fungal teas for flower. My tea I am brewing now is 3 tbsp. molasses to 1 tbsp. fish hydro along with other ingreadents .

SmokeyMcscrogin said:

Molasses brews a tea that is populated with both fungi and bacteria but I believe most times are more bacterial dominate in my brews, but there is much argument over this probably because no two teas brew alike. As you add hydrolysate the tea will become more fungal dom and take a little longer to brew . a lot of guys brew bacterial teas for veg and fungal teas for flower. My tea I am brewing now is 3 tbsp. molasses to 1 tbsp. fish hydro along with other ingreadents .

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I figured you meant bottle microbes, they are all faculative microbes and live in both aero or anaerobic environments. That bacterial & fungal tea & foodstock is correct but fungi need to be present and a microscope needed to succeed at a fungal dominant tea. And unless you are using large no till pots, you really can't benefit from fungal networks......these short cycle pots we use don't have the time to fully colonize fungal networks, it can take up to 90 days for fungi to form a colony and actually start benefiting the plant. And if more than 80 ppms of soluble P is present, then the plant wont even allow the fungal connection!! In the world of bottled nutrition, we only benefit from bacteria and the bacterial species that act like fungi, the fuzz you see from bokashi is a good example. Aerated teas are always going to come out different, especially with molasses or hydrolysate, etc...The key is the compost or castings, I've found the most diversity from AACT comes from aerating the compost source with no added foodstock, the living microbes are extracted into solution and eat the already existing humics & fulvics from the compost, the high air volume stimulates multiplication and with NO sugars or meals There is a better chance for diversity and no risk of a single species out competing the others. The best thing to do with AACT is use the highest quality compost and keep it simple, and use brew lengths for different nutrient cycling techniques. I'm kinda rambling, this isn't all directed at you Smokey, LOL, its for all the followers too!! I know I will get flack for some of this but I've been brewing a long time, many different methods and used a scope so this is my experience. Also, ENDO MYCORRIZAE FUNGI IS A WASTE FOR SHORT CYCLE, BOTTLED FEED GROWS, its one of the biggest rackets in the industry, I would explain more but rambled on enough....LOL

My mistake I though facultative was a anaerobe classification. Its all good Irie sharing is caring . I am aware most the mycorrhizae sold in the canabis industry are not symbiotic with canabis . Most mycorrhizae spores are not nearly stable enough to be put in a bottle let alone make it through the nutrient mix .I have found through my AC and AG backround everything in canabis is a sham or at least a rip off. I always keep 3 tbsp. Molasses in my tea never any more than 1 tbsp. Fish Hydo once I start adding it. My belief is It is posable to smell a fungal dom tea. It will have a slight mildew smell over the earth. A fungal dom tea usually will take over 26 hours to form any bio films. Bio films befor 24 hour always signify bacterial dom I brew with casting from my worms that eat nothing but the best inputs mostly grains, canabis and mycelium blocks but get a bit of everything . I think I might have mentioned in a message or a post I'm mainly after the enzymes. The teas I brew form my canabis are 4 gallons gallons max the teas I brew for my produce are 500+ gallons and much improved over my indoor brew both though are super simple cheep methods but still very effective at keeping plants happy indoors and out. Brews start off smelling as fish and molasse end smelling like slight mildew to earth and minerals depending on food sources Start in the low high 5s low 6s ph ,end mid to high 6s sometimes even 7s like tonight's tea. Tea bag and stones are always well colonized I forgot to take a photo of the tea bag I will get it next brew. At 7.4 this is the most alkaline tea I have ever brewed. I believe the culprit is I added 1/2 tsp more silica then usual

NFTG grow . Still week 6 of 12

Hey Irie have you ever added a more pure form of o2 to your tea or mess with different pressures and o2 in your teas? I have been thinking about this

SmokeyMcscrogin said:

Hey Irie have you ever added a more pure form of o2 to your tea or mess with different pressures and o2 in your teas? I have been thinking about this

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I ditched the aquarium pumps & air stones years ago due to low dissolved oxygen levels and dead zones, plus the cleanup is a bitch!! I switched to stronger pumps & bubble snakes for a few years with way better results, now I strictly use the air lift style, and no tea bags, everything goes right into the 5 gallons of water and the air lift & vortex keep it all flowing, with constant surface tension being broken!! I rarely use molasses anymore, a tsp per gallon max if I do and usually only for spore form innoculants. I definitely use my nose to exam teas, one of the best tools to measure!! I havnt looked into alternate forms of O2, seems interesting, would still need to deliver it through a brewer that creates high concentrations.......my vortex is prolly the best purchase in my garden after the lights!!

I know from the Oxy ponds at Susquehanna Aquacultures if you add concentrated O2 to your vortex brewer you will probably be making the most diverse heavily populated tea on planet about twice as fast as a tea with normal o2 levels. Thats how we make fish divide cells 2x As fast as in nature in aquaculture. I can say with confidence that every thing that is symbiotic with o2 and fish also will grow 2x faster but you have to keep up with food source or all will die. As far as cleaning I just wipe every thing down once with H202. I drop my stone in a bag of 10 % h202 and let it there until next brew. I have been considering getting rid the tea bag and just putting my castings in with a 70 micron screen covering the stone. Because cleaning the tea bag is a bitch.

I could see where higher O2 could peak the brew faster, worth looking into. I can say that my Vortex teas do foam over in under 12 hours, although foam means Jack shit, it is nice to see. Its also harder to maintain disolved oxygen when more food is present, and definitely can lead to bacterial blooms with a single agressive species taking over. Successful teas are about balance, would definitely need a nice scope to see what tea recipes work best with added O2. And I'm curious to read into the life cycle of bact/archea/fungi/protozoa with the high DO2, I know once protozoa become active, It takes 2 hours for the population to double itself. And fungal Hypha or even fungal spores still need certain times for their life cycles, and fungi don't populate brews but more just grow larger. Bacteria & archae are just ferocious and obviously the fastest to populate in peak conditions. I know you mentioned your teas are for enzymes too Smokey, have you ever done seed sprout teas? Or coconut water? They are loaded with enzymes........so is malted barley flour, or diastatic barley malt.

IrieRoots said:

I could see where higher O2 could peak the brew faster, worth looking into. I can say that my Vortex teas do foam over in under 12 hours, although foam means Jack shit, it is nice to see. Its also harder to maintain disolved oxygen when more food is present, and definitely can lead to bacterial blooms with a single agressive species taking over. Successful teas are about balance, would definitely need a nice scope to see what tea recipes work best with added O2. And I'm curious to read into the life cycle of bact/archea/fungi/protozoa with the high DO2, I know once protozoa become active, It takes 2 hours for the population to double itself. And fungal Hypha or even fungal spores still need certain times for their life cycles, and fungi don't populate brews but more just grow larger. Bacteria & archae are just ferocious and obviously the fastest to populate in peak conditions. I know you mentioned your teas are for enzymes too Smokey, have you ever done seed sprout teas? Or coconut water? They are loaded with enzymes........so is malted barley flour, or diastatic barley malt.

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Good Stuff Irie .Sorry I have been trying to keep up with everything and not doing a good job at it . I am already spread thin with Dad stuff and the forum is just another thing to try to keep up with. I will have more time around Christmas until late winter . I never have messed to much with my teas. I am in knees deep with my gardens from spring to fall and my jobs and sons sports so I just keep my teas as I have been doing them . I have more time to experiment when I am off work form early to late winter so I will defiantly try some of the things you mentioned above . I have more to add about my thoughts on concentrated o2 and hydrostatic pressure but first I really would like to finish my NFTG coco tutorial that stalled out. I also want to say I have no doubt you brewer is a better brewer but I just wanted to show a descent tea can be done with clean stones. Stones for teas must be kept soaking in a powerful acid solution or a highly concentrated solution of h2o2. less than perfect stone won't defuse properly and will pose contamination issues . I think its the biggest mistake people make when trying AACT with air stones.

At 7+ weeks the girls are starting to look a little tired so last night will be my last feeding at or above 1 Tbsp BK . These girls will be done somewhere between January 7 and 14

Smokey, I know your working on your coco tutorial but was wondering if you add any ph adjusters in the beginning?.......Like gypsum, oyster, limestone or lime........just curious, alot of growers seem to be combating low soil ph on the forums, especially once flower starts and Herc Ramps up. So many different variables come into play across the different environments, but it seems to be pretty common from what I been reading lately on the net.

SmokeyMcscrogin said:

At 7+ weeks the girls are starting to look a little tired so last night will be my last feeding at or above 1 Tbsp BK . These girls will be done somewhere between January 7 and 14 View attachment 4432857View attachment 4432859View attachment 4432860

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Looks good, will you thin them out any as flowers swell? You must like that couch lock stone taking them that long.........I usually take new phenos to 10 Or 11 weeks just to see what they are made of, but I like to harvest when mostly cloudy with a touch of Amber.