Nutrient ratios for plants prone to nutrient burn?

Thacker420

Thacker420

Well-Known Member
Ok so I ordered Auto Blueberry from Lowlife and it said that the plant was prone to nutrient burn therefore to not use as much nutrients. Does anyone know what ratio of nutrients I should use and when should i start using them? The plants are a little over 3 days old now and this is my first grow so im not exactly sure of all these nutrient ratios. I am however planning on using General Hydroponics Floramicro and Florabloom (and skip the Floragro because i hear its not needed). Any info is greatly appreciated and will probably save lives :D

Heres a link to plant description:
http://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/lowlife-seeds/lowlife-automatic-blueberry-feminized/prod_1125.html
 
M

Manimal

Well-Known Member
JackBaneNapier said:
View attachment 1353884this should help
Click to expand...
Lol, that's a different kind of help.

As for your question, I would start feeding after 2 or 3 weeks. Start with 1/4 or 1/8 dose and work your way up. When you start to see nute burn back off just a little. Then you know your limits and the only way to maximize what you can get out of a strain is to learn its limits. Make sure you ph your mix properly, that was my biggest problem when I started to grow and most problems you see on here are from a lack of proper ph.
 
Y

Yeah Right

Active Member
How can anyone give any advice if we don't know what medium you're growing in? A sterile medium is going to need quite a bit a nutrient solution throughout the grow cycle. However, a really good soil mix may only require watering from start to finish.
 
TaoWolf

TaoWolf

Active Member
Look up Lucas Formula or Lucas Ratio if doing hydroponics - esp. since you are planning on using GH nutrients.

"Add 8ml of Flora Micro (dark red stuff) to 1 gallon of water*, mix, and then add 16ml of Flora Bloom (pink stuff) into the water, and mix. Done - unless you're growing in coco. For young plants (< 4 weeks old) or cuttings, which may not be able to handle a full strength feeding formula, may require that you dilute the nutrient solution before feeding. This is OK, just make sure you keep the correct ratio when mixing. For example, 50% strength would be 4ml Micro and 8ml Bloom, or 3.5g of dry Maxibloom per gallon."

Here's a link.
 
Snow Crash

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Bloom is one of the most diluted nutrients available on the market. You'll have the most control over the ppms using their solution as a deviance of a ml or two won't make too much of a difference.

More concentrated nutrition like Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom, Connoisseur, Or Dutch Master Gold, even Fox Farms Grow Big and Tiger Bloom, are going to make a larger difference when you over feed by smaller amounts.

Personally, I don't grow Auto's... don't see the point, but you can just run them in some organics. 70 days worth of food isn't tough to do with soil and that should prevent the burning as long as you transplant from a light strength mix to a mild strength. Like from Fox Farms Light Warrior to Fox Farms Happy Frog or Ocean Forest. Add in a little Dolomite for the extra micro's and pH buffering... And then you're pretty set.
 
Thacker420

Thacker420

Well-Known Member
Yeah Right said:
How can anyone give any advice if we don't know what medium you're growing in? A sterile medium is going to need quite a bit a nutrient solution throughout the grow cycle. However, a really good soil mix may only require watering from start to finish.
Click to expand...
Im growing in an aerogarden with the grow sponges that they include. Water ph will be around 5.7 the entire time.
 
Thacker420

Thacker420

Well-Known Member
Snow Crash said:
Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Bloom is one of the most diluted nutrients available on the market. You'll have the most control over the ppms using their solution as a deviance of a ml or two won't make too much of a difference.

More concentrated nutrition like Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom, Connoisseur, Or Dutch Master Gold, even Fox Farms Grow Big and Tiger Bloom, are going to make a larger difference when you over feed by smaller amounts.

Personally, I don't grow Auto's... don't see the point, but you can just run them in some organics. 70 days worth of food isn't tough to do with soil and that should prevent the burning as long as you transplant from a light strength mix to a mild strength. Like from Fox Farms Light Warrior to Fox Farms Happy Frog or Ocean Forest. Add in a little Dolomite for the extra micro's and pH buffering... And then you're pretty set.
Click to expand...
I was looking more toward a 3 part system of nutrients like GH's Flora nova series because im new to this and this is just an experiment for me. Thats also why Im trying with autoflowering plants too, I thought it might be easier to start out with because i can just leave my aerogarden's lights on 24/7. Is the Botanicare bloom nutrient only for use in the flowering period?
 
Thacker420

Thacker420

Well-Known Member
TaoWolf said:
Look up Lucas Formula or Lucas Ratio if doing hydroponics - esp. since you are planning on using GH nutrients.

"Add 8ml of Flora Micro (dark red stuff) to 1 gallon of water*, mix, and then add 16ml of Flora Bloom (pink stuff) into the water, and mix. Done - unless you're growing in coco. For young plants (< 4 weeks old) or cuttings, which may not be able to handle a full strength feeding formula, may require that you dilute the nutrient solution before feeding. This is OK, just make sure you keep the correct ratio when mixing. For example, 50% strength would be 4ml Micro and 8ml Bloom, or 3.5g of dry Maxibloom per gallon."

Here's a link.
Click to expand...
Yes im growing hydroponically/aeroponically in an aerogarden. So what your saying is that I could use this Lucas Formula with FloraMicro and FloraBloom and just add more water to the mixture to dilute it and reduce nutrient burn? Also, do you know if i should use the Micro throughout the life of the plant or should i stop using it when it goes into the flowering stage? Thanks for all the help :-D
 
TaoWolf

TaoWolf

Active Member
Well if you were using RO water or distilled water, 8mL of Flora Micro and 16mL of Flora Bloom per gallon for an adult plant will give you an excellent ballpark ppm/EC level as well as a good pH. If you do not have an ppm/EC meter you simply top off your reservoir daily and keep track of the amount of water you've used to top off with. Once you've topped off the reservoir with an equal amount of water as the size of the reservoir: it's time to empty the reservoir and mix up a new batch of 8mL FM and 16mL FB per gallon and start over again.

If you do have a ppm meter, instead of topping off with plain pH adjusted water you can add-back nutrients when topping off to bring the ppm back up to the full strength of the original solution (do not pour nutrients directly into reservoir however - dilute it first if going this route).

If you do not use RO or distilled water, you can pretty much do everything the same (you aren't likely to burn them just from the additional of what's in tap water), however you will have to monitor and adjust pH as needed as tap water can vary a large amount in pH and additional buffering may be required. With RO/distilled water, the pH @ the given nutrient strength should be just about perfect.

With seedlings and young plants, you might start them out at 25% strength (which would be 2mL FM + 4mL FB per gallon); raise them up to 50% strength when larger (which would be 4mL FM + 8mL FB per gallon); and then finally to 100% strength (which would be the 8ml FM + 18mL FB per gallon) once mature and run that throughout flowering as well. You can fine-tune a bit once you get to know the strain if repeatedly growing it.

Hope that answers your question well, but let me know if I missed the mark.

By the way, I like Pure Blend Pro as well if you want to go a little more organically-derived w/ the nutrients (and it is a bit more forgiving to use). Or if you really want to get even simpler and save some money, GH MaxiBloom is exactly the same ratio-wise and content-wise as mixing the FM and FB together at the given ratio described above... in one product... and it comes in a dry form (powder), so it's less expensive to ship/sell/buy. You just mix it @ 7 grams per gallon for an adult plant and either top-off w/ water like above or add-back nutrients using a ppm/EC meter.
 
Thacker420

Thacker420

Well-Known Member
TaoWolf said:
Well if you were using RO water or distilled water, 8mL of Flora Micro and 16mL of Flora Bloom per gallon for an adult plant will give you an excellent ballpark ppm/EC level as well as a good pH. If you do not have an ppm/EC meter you simply top off your reservoir daily and keep track of the amount of water you've used to top off with. Once you've topped off the reservoir with an equal amount of water as the size of the reservoir: it's time to empty the reservoir and mix up a new batch of 8mL FM and 16mL FB per gallon and start over again.

If you do have a ppm meter, instead of topping off with plain pH adjusted water you can add-back nutrients when topping off to bring the ppm back up to the full strength of the original solution (do not pour nutrients directly into reservoir however - dilute it first if going this route).

If you do not use RO or distilled water, you can pretty much do everything the same (you aren't likely to burn them just from the additional of what's in tap water), however you will have to monitor and adjust pH as needed as tap water can vary a large amount in pH and additional buffering may be required. With RO/distilled water, the pH @ the given nutrient strength should be just about perfect.

With seedlings and young plants, you might start them out at 25% strength (which would be 2mL FM + 4mL FB per gallon); raise them up to 50% strength when larger (which would be 4mL FM + 8mL FB per gallon); and then finally to 100% strength (which would be the 8ml FM + 18mL FB per gallon) once mature and run that throughout flowering as well. You can fine-tune a bit once you get to know the strain if repeatedly growing it.

Hope that answers your question well, but let me know if I missed the mark.

By the way, I like Pure Blend Pro as well if you want to go a little more organically-derived w/ the nutrients (and it is a bit more forgiving to use). Or if you really want to get even simpler and save some money, GH MaxiBloom is exactly the same ratio-wise and content-wise as mixing the FM and FB together at the given ratio described above... in one product... and it comes in a dry form (powder), so it's less expensive to ship/sell/buy. You just mix it @ 7 grams per gallon for an adult plant and either top-off w/ water like above or add-back nutrients using a ppm/EC meter.
Click to expand...
Ok i understand, im using distilled water and I wasnt sure if i should go with the 8/16 mix because it said the plant was prone to nutrient burn. I guess ill try that when she starts flowering and if signs of nutrient burn show ill drop the ratio down to 7/14 or even 6/12. Thanks again! Peace
 
Shankapotomus

Shankapotomus

Member
Thacker420 said:
Ok i understand, im using distilled water and I wasnt sure if i should go with the 8/16 mix because it said the plant was prone to nutrient burn. I guess ill try that when she starts flowering and if signs of nutrient burn show ill drop the ratio down to 7/14 or even 6/12. Thanks again! Peace
Click to expand...
Thought i would post here for the future, in case you ever revisit this thread after running into problems. Below are 2 images, What do you think? Yeah Potassium (K) deficiency is what I am thinking. I also flushed for a few days thinking maybe K was locked out due to high salinity and that did no good.
I was using the Lucus Formula and at full strength my plants were getting burnt in veg. I dropped the ratio down in half (Oh Veg is in aeroponics set-up) and I am using clones from a couple very healthy moms of Dutch Passion " The Ultimate"
Of course my clones are started off 1/4 strength and I have tried slowly increasing my ratio to the recommended 5/10 for veg.
When my plants are at about 2' they can handle this dose but start showing this deficiency. When I throw them into flower, I have tried to increase the ratio to the recommended 8/16 as the deficiency starts getting worse in no time.
I have tried everything to solve this issue, however running 25 Buckets in RDWC, it is getting costly with time and product. Looking at the "Green grow" in the GH 3 part, you can see it has 6% K which is more than the other 2 combined. I am thinking this may be strain related, I don't know. Today though I am going to dump 300 gal of nutes and try the GH 3 part formula.
These plants can only handle about 800ppm in till I start seeing some burn so will be adjusting the 3 part accordingly.
Awhile back was using this with success with another strain, however I was always fighting with the PH. Cool thing about the Lucus was it seemed to always be at 5.8 to 6.0 when mixed.
So I guess just a heads up on changing the Lucus formula ratio too much as it has not worked well for me.:o



 
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