Oi boys! Looking for opinions on this light , i already have a 100w cob but im bringing this in to help flowering. Grow space is 2.5ft x 2.5ft

They claim to use Samsung LM301"H". That's the only thing that throws me off. Do we really, I mean SERIOUSLY, think this company is using them? I didn't even think they were that available at the moment.

If they're even real.

Nice touch theyvadd they'll "refurbish" your led panel at its near end lifespan and save you tons in replacements. Assuming they'll be around 10 yrs from now and this lights even relevant anymore. Lol.
 
I spent 2 mins to find first fibbs on the spec sheet. Efficiency is not 3.03 by a long shot when you run samsung diodes at .4w. Also spectrum seems fibbed witth extra red which isnt mentioned re diodes. Id avoid unless you dont really care and want a domestic water proof product. Maybe hit up @ANC he might know more or have a better solution i believ he builds lights
 
Airwalker16 said:
They claim to use Samsung LM301"H". That's the only thing that throws me off. Do we really, I mean SERIOUSLY, think this company is using them? I didn't even think they were that available at the moment.

If they're even real.

Nice touch theyvadd they'll "refurbish" your led panel at its near end lifespan and save you tons in replacements. Assuming they'll be around 10 yrs from now and this lights even relevant anymore. Lol.
Click to expand...

Yeah I’ve never heard of a 301h. Don’t believe it exists. I would just build a couple strip lights for the same price. I added 100 watts to my setup with two f564b strips. They don’t have 301b chips like my boards do, but the 561b+ chips in it are not shabby. If you really want 301b chips check out Atreum. I love their strips and boards and they were great when I was just starting out. Now I know how to navigate digikey and can build stuff from parts, but I wouldn’t have been able to get there without help from Atreum and of course the fine folks here.

Edit: 301h does exist but only in 6500k. I think that one needs more time on the market and a 3000k version before I consider it.

www.samsung.com

LM301H | SAMSUNG LED | Samsung LED Global Website

Samsung LM301H - Mid Power LEDs. Find out more tech spec and documentation about LM301H in samsung LED global website
www.samsung.com www.samsung.com

DonPetro said:
Can i ask why not in series?
Click to expand...

If the driver is named HLGXXXh-XXa/b it has to be wired in parallel. If you want to wire in series use the drivers named HLGXXXh-Cxxx. That’s my understanding. You can wire any board or strip array in either series or parallel but if you want to be able to dim it you have to use one of the a/b series drivers and wire it in parallel.

When I built my lights I didn’t know much and used a/b series drivers and wired them in parallel because of manufacturer recommendations and nothing more, but I’ve been told certain drivers that have dimmers need to be wired in parallel. I could be wrong about the dimming but I’m 99% sure that drivers that end in 56a (just an example. Could be 30a, 48a, or any other voltage) need to be wired in parallel and drivers that end in c1500 (or any other milliamp number) need to be wired in series.
.
 
Last edited:
Bluedreamzzz said:
Okay so , judging by your replies , let me link something

3 of these, connected to aluminium bars w/ heatsink all connected to 185 48A driver that @ANC mentioned. I am still so unfamiliar with all the terms and how all this works but I am going to piece it together. All the advice is helping thanks champs
Click to expand...

That looks like basically the same strips I have except 3500k. Still an f564b. You’re correct on the driver as well. A 185h-48a driver would be perfect for 3 of them. I run my two off a 120h-48b. Only difference is that mine is dimmed with an external pot and a 48a has the dimmer built in. That configuration has to be wired in parallel. I would mount them directly to an extruded aluminum heatsink. Pick out some machine screws that will hold down the strip, and then buy the correct drill bit and tap kit so you can screw straight into the heatsink. Use thermal paste. A lot of people skimp and just stick the strips on with thermal tape. I advise against this.
 
Bluedreamzzz said:
Okay so , judging by your replies , let me link something

3 of these, connected to aluminium bars w/ heatsink all connected to 185 48A driver that @ANC mentioned. I am still so unfamiliar with all the terms and how all this works but I am going to piece it together. All the advice is helping thanks champs
Click to expand...
Bluedreamzzz said:
No
No of the strips I linked
Click to expand...
We'll, they're 46V strips. The wattage is completely dependant on your choice of current. The data sheet says it's Maximum tested current isn't available but it's nominal test current is 1.12amps(1,120ma).
So if you ran them that way, 46V X 1.12A = 48-50ish watts. I'm sure with a good heatsink, 1500-1750ma would be just fine though for 70-85watts a strip.
 
Well if you’re running the 185 driver with three of those boards I would say you’d be pulling about 180W from the wall.
 
Bluedreamzzz said:
Okay so , judging by your replies , let me link something

3 of these, connected to aluminium bars w/ heatsink all connected to 185 48A driver that @ANC mentioned. I am still so unfamiliar with all the terms and how all this works but I am going to piece it together. All the advice is helping thanks champs
Click to expand...

Pat of it is know what is available, you cant search for parts if you don't know they exist.

If you google "ledgardener strip builds" you will find a pretty good list of various options for strips that perform well for what we want.
He will give you the max current and voltages and most important the part numbers for each model, with that part number you can just google it or search digikey.

Gives you more options to price up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top